Edmunds dealer partner, Bayway Leasing, is now offering transparent lease deals via these forums. Click here to learn more!
Options
Popular New Cars
Popular Used Sedans
Popular Used SUVs
Popular Used Pickup Trucks
Popular Used Hatchbacks
Popular Used Minivans
Popular Used Coupes
Popular Used Wagons
Comments
How can I put this politely? The days of tightening bolts by feel, setting clearances by eye, and tuning engines by ear are long gone (unless maybe you're working on vehicles from that long gone era).
It'll come back to bite you in the end, whether that's the case here or not.
Although I still think you'll have to remove the transmission again, here's another couple of questions:
1: Is it a four or six cylinder engine?
2: Did you remove the flywheel at all?
Information from the factory manual attached. As you can see, Jeep think it's very important to make full use of a torque wrench ( and it certainly doesn't make you a sissy if you use one :P ).
I'm afraid that except to check the engine and transmission mounts to make sure one hasn't broken, I've got nothing more at this point.
-Paul
Most likely the transmission itself as you've got a problem with 'Park' as well.
Unfortunately, in recent years Jeeps have been suffering from QC and design issues, notable concerning steering (death wobble), hardtops (leaks), and both manual and automatic transmissions having assorted problems.
It doesn't make me happy to say it either.
It's a real shame. My 1999 Sahara has over 106,000 miles on it, and aside from a few easily rectified problems -radiator seam leakage, exhaust manifold, intermittent gauges- it's been dead nuts reliable. My wife would like a new Islander, but the JK reliability history leads me to believe that owning one during the warranty period would be a pain, never mind keeping one with 100,000 miles under its wheels...
Mine: 1995 318ti Club Sport-2020 C43-2021 Sahara 4xe-1996 Speed Triple Challenge Cup Replica
Wife's: 2015 X1 xDrive28i
Son's: 2018 330i xDrive
Same with my '99 Sahara which I've owned from new and is just now approaching 100K.
My issues have been exactly the same plus, I recently had a TPS and clockspring failure, and I also had to add a little Freon to the a/c yesterday for the first time in eleven years.
Hopefully you know how to fix your intermittent instruments by tweaking the pins for the round connector on the rear of the instrument panel.
I like to keep my vehicles for quite a while, but if the JK didn't have those basic flaws (for which nobody at Chrysler seems in a hurry to fix) I could have been very tempted by a new Rubicon.
However, I don't consider it a penance to continue with the Sahara, and I anticipate that it will do another eleven years/100K at minimal cost and with the same reliability if asked..
Love the JK's looks, but the TJ, thus far, has seemed to weather the evolution better.
-Paul
We had a Jeep mechanic from another website suggest to us that we should have a sweep test done on the Throttle Position Sensor which showed up as normal and while my husband was discussing lack of problem solving with the manager of the shop, the manager said he had just purchased a 2010 Unlimited X that was doing the same thing and had written several letters to Chrysler with no response. Awesome, huh? I've read on this and other sites that transmission replacement doesn't solve the problem so it's clearly either a fuel/throttle issue or some sort of sensor. I'm wondering also, if a performance chip wouldn't solve the problem.
Oh, and I've also had discussions with a gentleman who is selling his 2009 Sahara Unlimited because of the exact same issues and he had a Ripp Mod installed for over $6,000.00 (and something to do with the exhaust) and he said that fixed the problem, so if anybody out there knows what the Ripp Mod does and why that fixed the problem maybe we will know which direction to take in getting this resolved.
Thanks in advance for all of your help!
This is a warranty issue pure and simple, don't let anyone try and make it your problem. Unless it's over the mileage you will still be under the standard 3yr/36K coverage.
As for the shop manager, if it was a Jeep dealership then words fail me!
If he can't take care of his own business how on earth can he help you?
Do not under any circumstances install an aftermarket chip of any sort.
That would allow Chrysler/Jeep to void your transmission/powertrain warranty if they so choose. :mad:
You deal with pressuring your dealer and Jeep to get this fixed, let them deal with how to fix it........and don't get fobbed of with "Oh, they all do that!". :shades:
Yep.
However, I don't consider it a penance to continue with the Sahara, and I anticipate that it will do another eleven years/100K at minimal cost and with the same reliability if asked...
Great minds think alike. I can't think of anything that I'd want to replace it with.
Mine: 1995 318ti Club Sport-2020 C43-2021 Sahara 4xe-1996 Speed Triple Challenge Cup Replica
Wife's: 2015 X1 xDrive28i
Son's: 2018 330i xDrive
They had the gall to say that they were unaware of any such problems with their vehicles and their transmission problems! LIARS! Do they even track what people are using their warranties for? My husband suggested that he take a peek at a few of these forums and ask himself if the vehicle was engineered to fall apart just outside the warranty period or if it was just a vehicle defect not expected to make it too far outside the dealership parking lot.
unbelievable. we're putting a for-sale sign in it today. we will never own a Chrysler product again. too bad too because they could REALLY use the business!
So why do we get $50 torque converters. Even a web site, some months back (can't find the story now), did a shoot out between a base camaro and the badest challenger and even with a 100 hp advantage, the challenger was pathetic. Even the writer suggested hey mopar (emphasis added) maybe it is the torque converter.
Late last year tried to find a race building transmission shop to build me a good converter. Some agreed some thought I was crazy. Gave up.
Since the hail storm in OKC, made some runs back and forth, and while I have experienced some goofy tranny shifts around town, this last trip was deja vue the crd.
90'ish ac running keeping up with traffic, punched it to go around a piddler clogging up the slow lane and nothing. Just like that cheap tc in the crd, redlined the strong motor but no speed, had to return to the slow line and felt like a dog with its' tail between its' legs. Shutting off the ac window down temp dropping outside then light rain, tranny then took the pedal. Have checked the pan after local driving with a harbor freight centex non-contact thermometer and didn't like the readings. Obviously then a fluid and not melted plastic issue.
Have to take a few hits though, never checked the tranny fluid level from the factory until this am and appears overfilled. Could be a foaming issue. Talked with the owner of a nearby shop. He only uses the big hayden cooler and I asked about me bringing a case of redline c+ while he was at it. I know it is a no brainer to add a cooler and run some fluid.
Catching up here took the detours provided by the host and read about the TJ wobble fix. The jk may be built with some cheap parts, can't find anybody who will say otherwise, it still has it's merits as it is. No rack and pinion, body on frame, after market support. For an oldtimer with the first solid front axle only thing new is the trackbar.
Will I ever go hemi or pentastar-No. Seems if you want to rockcrawl, you build up an old simple beater or build a rail with - wait for it - a small block gm and th tranny, just like older jeeps. Now if the jeep computers weren't what they are-we could all put that in ours. But since we have lifetime powertrain and purchased lifetime everything, I will do my best to keep those warranties and let some newbie, who thinks he can make it working for a dealer, throw parts at it forever.
On a side note, Good Luck to Adam, who left Screamlizard and started his own shop to concentrate on buggies with the small blocks from you know who. He really isn't in competition with his ex lizard Gerry who opened up his own shop earlier.
What a difference, play the dealer merry go round, or be lucky to be near great guys who walk the talk.
Tranny factory fill was not overfilled.
Tranny fluid seems to have reached burning temp but not burned up.
Tranny cooler on order.
Redline C+ on order, local dealer's warehouse down to seven quarts.
A lot of owners already have an external cooler.
Shop manual says it is necessary not only for towing but also for hot climate.
Would be nice if jeeps delivered to the southwest came with one.
I think Steve's link covers it, except to say that up to '06 it's usually caused by a combination of component wear and/or a suspension lift and bigger tires, while for the JK it seems to be something of a design issue.
I'd also add that posting a death wobble question under a 'Transmission and A/C' heading isn't the most efficient way to get an answer. :sick:
Make sure it's big enough. I use this B&M one:
You can find it HERE
Note that it's a stacked plate construction, which is both more efficient than the fin and tube type and is stronger too, so it's much less likely to be damaged by a flying rock.
It also uses separate barb fittings for the hose connections, rather than the often seen integral ones which are hard to seal.
When the ambient temp is 90F+ it keeps the tranny temp at 175F during normal driving, and 200F or below when towing a 3000lb+ trailer. I also use a deep pan and external in-line filter.
You can't keep an automatic transmission too clean or too cool.
Thank you. It's been decades since I said the word Hayden. Noticed in forums since bought the wrangler the words B&M tranny cooler mentioned a few times. The local tranny shop is just a few turns from the house. Father and son, where son has a Tacoma prerunner and his dad has an '08 Sahara (not his first jeep).
Went there to check tranny level and look at fluid. He mentioned he only uses biggest hayden 30k? coolers. Just got done googling coolers. B&M seems to have a good informative website. Anything is better than none. Like strong against rocks in one description but more concerned about how the splicing is done and with what parts for long-term.
Before this last trip, went to harbor freight to get that great little free flashight (now our jeep maplight that sits great in the console). Got the centex ready went into the garage and got top and bottom pan readings for the engine and tranny and other places for kicks. 218 for top of tranny pan.
Think what cooked the fluid in this getaway from okc, was the 5 o'clock traffic from hefner parkway to south of norman, then trying to keep up with the frustated I-35 traffic. If it was 218 just shopping and parking in the garage for a few minutes, I sure hope it didn't go much past 250 and cook things. Guessing there is plastic in that converter just like in the crd.
Thanks again for the post. Printed it out with some other info and tomorrow will have a sit down with the tranny shop.
It could be the brake interlink asking for attention. That's the mechanism that requires you to put presure on the brake pedal before shifting into a gear.
the dealership says that they have gotten a notice bot this problem but cannot explain why it is happening.
any input?
thanks
Good Luck.
I can't say for sure on the '07 JK, but it's adjustable on TJs and on most other vehicles.
I got it home and looked under it and dont seem to be leaking, But there is a tube or something on the passenger side that looks like a hose or something goes there.
Does anyone think that might be the problem or what, cause I think I should be getting better speed on the open road...
Sure would like some feed back.
I've always come to this forum for answers on how to fix the ol' Jeeperoo whenever it had problems (thankfully that hasn't been too often). Now my Jeep and I have a major boo-boo, namely on the automatic transmission bone. I went trail riding yesterday in the Blue Ridge Mountains (Dictums Ridge to be exact) and did some slight (and I mean very slight, nothing insane) rock crawling. No problems. Then about half way through the trail I decided to go swimming in the mud puddle and ended up getting stuck. The water never came high enough to even touch the air intake, so I'm not worried about having hydro-locked the engine. My buddy towed me out after I tried to free myself by doing the forward/reverse tango in 4-low. I got free of the pit, pulled off to the side and parked it, no problem. Then, after my Jeep had been sitting for half an hour cooling off, I started it up again and went up the trail which was rocky with a decent incline. Close to the top, the Jeeper would not go any further. It was as if it were in neutral. I figured the tranny was overheating, so I parked it and let it cool for a while (although it had already cooled and only drove a short way up the hill). At any rate the same story kept happening all the way down the trail, and my buddy ended up towing me the 5 miles out (quite a ride without power steering or power brakes). Anyways, from paved road driving yesterday and today I was able to determine that it has immense trouble shifting gears, up or down. When I came off the interstate and slowed down, it wouldn't come out of overdrive and stalled out. Also I tried putting it in 1st gear at a traffic light and it stalled out. I flushed the transmission today and put new AFT in it, still no cigar. Also, after inspecting the transmission there were no bumps or dents or cracks from hitting rocks. I have the feeling this could have happened on a paved road just as well as a trail.
I have the creeping premonition that the tranny is going out, which is no good news to my bank account. Any help, suggestions, or questions are very welcome!
Yours truly,
Alex
:sick:
P.S. in the horrible case that the tranny does go out, how difficult would it be to install a manual in place of the automatic transmission? i figure it would be cheaper, and more fun than driving an automatic.
No, but it will have been high enough to be thrown into the transmission breather by the spinning torque converter and flexplate.
I'm sorry to say you almost certainly have water in the transmission, which will require its removal and a complete rebuild.......but that will almost certainly be cheaper than installing a manual one in its place.
If do want to do the swap it will require a manual transmission with shift lever and interior console, together with a crankshaft pilot bearing, flywheel, clutch and release mechanism, pedal assembly and hydraulics, plus various sundry minor items and a whole lot of labor.
It could be as simple as the throttle to transmission cable badly out of adjustment.
It could also be that the fluid level is too low or that you're using the wrong fluid; you must use ATF+4.
The oil pump could be worn, requiring high revs before it builds enough pressure.
Maybe the transmission hasn't been serviced as it should and the filter is blocked and/or the bands need adjustment.
Finally, it could just be that the transmission is worn throughout and needs rebuilding.
First, adjust the cable. Then, if there's any possibility it may have had any other fluid than ATF+4 added, have a shop completely flush and renew the fluid.
Next, drop the pan and replace the filter and adjust the bands (do this afterwards if you're having the transmission flushed.
Depending on which engine you have you've got a 30RH or 32RH transmission, which is the final development of the TF999.
As long as it's not overheated, is serviced properly and at the correct intervals, it should last the life of the engine, i.e. 150-200K miles without needing repair.
However, all automatic transmissions are sensitive to abuse, especially overheating and contamination.
No, it's a brake/shifter interlock cable issue. Probably just needs adjustment.
Probably just first startup normal. Let fluid pressure build and solenoids to do their clicking. Start up in the morning count to three or whatever and you should be good to go. Our '09 Rubicon likes a second or two wait in the morning also. This is assuming the '07 is new to you or you finally want it resolved or it is getting worse and someone needs to look at the fluid and take note of the mileage.
Water entered the transmission through the breather. Unfortunately, the transmission will now need to be removed and rebuilt, the transmission cooler in the radiator will need to be flushed, and the torque converter replaced.