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Chevy Silverado/GMC Sierra - Owners hangout
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I wonder how much will change before it hits the market. Do you know the displacement of the V10? Overhead cam or pushrod? Allison isn't making the tranny are they?
Dave 40 ? Him and Franklin prob. bought a tindra and are happily working the south 40......
"Good luck on this one now!"
Picked up new front rotors from Carquest for $51 ea, made in Canada, no Chinese crap here ! Guy told me lucky I had 2 w.d. 4x4 rotors are much more.
Ray T
and stay across the street at the Best Inn......
Hope to se ya ! Go to http://www.snowplowing-contractors.com for details or directions.
Or I will send them to ya !................
Will be handing out my bars "Hangovers installed and Serviced shirts" Info on Turkey Wings snow removal devices and info on the beautiful 1000 Islands NY......................
I'm not quite sure how to do it, and I don't want to break anything in the process.
2001 Silverado LS ext-cab.
-David
Scroll to the bottom look under the title instructions - disassembly of front doors
Also note: Only thing i noticed which wasnt on there is to disconnect the speaker wire. Also the bolt size (2) in the door is a 7mm. Only problem i had was removing the power window/door wires. Its one unit but i wanted to take my time so i didnt break it.
About a year ago the dealer replaced the window motor (under warranty) as it was making a loud click sound when the window was going up. Since then every once in a while I get locked out of the drivers side when I'm outside the truck and I shut the door. Seems the mechnical linkage to lock the door lock needs to be adjusted as I noticed the manual door lock switch movement is not as much as on the passenger side when the door is unlocked. Shutting the door hard joggles that switch a little, just enough to lock the door.
Mostly happens when I'm at the marina putting my boat in the water at the boat launch.
Thought I'd try fixing it myself before I ask the dealer to fix the problem they created.
Have a good weekend.
-David
-David
If I find something online I'll post it.
-David
-David
I would like to hear form owners of duramax, if they had to do it over again would they buy another duramax? What about gas milage without a load?
04 silverado 4wd work truck. is anyone familiar with a dash rattle when the rpm's exceed 2,000 ? everything appears tight but...
http://www.imcool.com/articles/antifreeze-coolant/dexcool-macs200- 1.htm
So I just took a utility knife and whittled a little off of that diamond shaped back piece of the manual door lock switch so it now looks more like a square.
Problem is now fixed. The linkage no longer binds up on the manual switch, opens all of the way when in the unlock position, and best of all doesn't lock me out of the driver's side when I shut the door.
-David
The door panel was no longer in the correct position (sagged about 1/4") causing the lock linkage that mates thru a diamond shaped slot on the back of the manual door lock switch plate to not be lined up correctly.
It's easy to check to see if you have the same probem I had. Use a flat head screw driver to pop off the manual door lock switch plate. Then gently remove the little sliding part from the manual door lock switch plate assembly and place the other part back onto the door panel (the one with the orange paint on it). Lock and unlock your door to see if the linkage moves back and forth between the long ends of the diamond shaped opening. My linkage was about 1/4" above the center of the diamond shaped opening, so the linkage was not moving it's full range to lock and unlock the door. Thus the problem with the door locking sometimes when I would shut it hard.
Good luck.
-David
Bang for the buck and blow that Sierra into the weeds...install a supercharger.
I personally change coolant in my vehicles every 30K miles. And my radiators are crystal clean at 100K + miles in every vehicle I own and no colling system problems.
I have now developed a rear brake "groan" - I notice it only when I am at a stop sign and allow the truck to inch forward - it sounds like the brakes are not 100 % released - like they are dragging - once I drive ahead they seem fine.
Anyone have this situation? I have 40K on the original pads - when I had the e-brake work done the mechanic told me I had almost 1/2 of my rear pads left - so I don't think it is worn pads.
David; I'm not sure I trust that 100K claim. May be just marketing. It might be OK if you had to stretch it, but I don't. I'm changing mine at 50K, just because that pretty orange color it had when it was new is faded. :-) ......BTW - Congratulations on the easy fix with your door lock.
-David
noobie-
Glad you liked the link and I'm off the Walmart....
Bottom line, any major increase in power out of that 5.3 will require the upgrading of the transmission and rear end. Which for most can't be justified.
I say "usually", because the 1997 Malibu I used to own had two pulleys AND the tensioner all go bad. But that was because of a bad alternator that was eating belts, which caused excessive stress on the other parts.
http://www.edmunds.com/new/2005/chevrolet/ssr/100397072/specs.htm- l?tid=edmunds.n.researchlanding.leftsidenav..8.Chevrolet*