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Chevy S10/GMC S15-Sonoma: Problems & Solutions
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Everytime I turn on the AC the fuse blows. I have tried to track it down but to no avail. I was wondering if anyone has any idea where or what the problem is before I go thru and replace the whole circuit. This truck is one of the better trucks i've owned. It does not leak or burn any oil at all. I can step down on the gas and light up the tires with no problem. The engine is completely stock with the exception of an oil cooler. Also I was wondering if anyone knows where i can get a complete wiring diagram just for my truck.
I have a Haynes and a Chilton manuals but there not really as complete as i hoped the would be.
If you look at my post #1009 right before yours, my 87 S-15 had engine surging and idling problems which would go away after I drove for a while also. No engine codes were stored. I just changed my EGR valve and all my problems went away. My old valve, I could blow thru it when closed, even though the diaphram was operating properly. Since it is vacuum operated only(no wires attached), no engine codes were stored.
Something to think about, hope this helps,
Vernon
I have a 2000 4x4 s10 w 4.3 completely stock w/ 86000 miles. It's in very nice condition and I have driven it almost a year with absolutely no problems. Today I got in it cold for first startup of the day and it fired rite up but when I turned the AC on it died. It turns over now but wont start. It may be a coincedence on the AC thing but thats when it died. I dont hear the fuel pump when I turn the key forward so I'm assuming it's the fuel pump.
I have no blown fuses and have power at the fuel pump relay. My question is...is there a trick to check for power at the fuel pump short of dropping the fuel tank or removing the bed?? Like a harness thats accessible or wire or something. I dont want to drop the tank just to find that I have no power. I'll do it if I have to replace the pump but surely there a way to check it before doing all that. :sick:
Any help or suggestions are greatly appreciated.
Dave
Years ago the fuse on th AC mcomp. (for the clutch) would blow when the Freon was low ... ??/
A few Questions ??? - you stated 8 Bolts for to remove the Bed - how long did it take ??? Would you do it this way if you had to do it again ?? (Sounds like a neat alternative to pulling the tank!!)
I assume the bad ground was corrosion / bad wire and not a pinched /damaged wire ??
Last one - Any clue how this ties to the using the AC - or was thaqt just a fluke ???
Always willing to learn ...
I'd check the fuel pump pressure AND flow - and if that checked out - I'd pay the "Diag Fee" and bring it to the dealer ....
Yes, I would do it this way again. It was easier than attempting to unhook the wires and lines that you cant see and draining the tank and using a tank jack and unbolting all the tank cover bolts and tank straps ect.. The 8 bolts are easy to access and just bolt straight into permanent threaded ports in the bed (there are no nuts to deal with).It only took me about 15 mins. to remove the bolts. Of course I did have to unplug the wire harness at rear of frame for taillights and remove the 2 little torx screws that hold the fuel tank filler at gas cap to the bed. But thats it. I would say for me it was easier. The bed is not that heavy, I'm guessing 200lbs max maybe lighter. I did it by myself by carefully lifting one side at a time and moving it back where it rested evenly on the rear bumper and tires leaving just enough room to access the tank and fuel pump. I never totally removed the bed completely from the truck because I was by myself. Had I had a friend that wasnt working that day it would have been easily lifted all the way off with 2 people.
I'm not sure about the ground. It wasnt pinched or cut that I could see. I didn't attempt to follow it to its origin. The pump has a 4 wire plug harness to power and ground the pump and fuel level sender and a 3 wire harness that is just to send signal to guages I assume. On the 4 wire harness the grey wire is 12v from fuel pump relay switched by ignition key. The black wire is ground. The purple wire is voltage for fuel level sender and the black with white stripe is the senders ground. All I know is that I could get 12 volts at the grey wire with key forward during prime cycle if I grounded the test light at frame but couldn't if I grounded it to black wire at harness. Rather than crawling on my back in the 100* Texas heat attempting to trace the ground wire to it's origin I decided to just run a new ground wire. It worked.
I dont think the AC had anything to do with it other than maybe the sudden demand of current possibly contributing to the death of the fuel pump ground. The AC and everything works great so I think it was a fluke.
Yeah, I hear you, us DIY's gotta keep learning dont we?
O.K. problem solved.......when the calipers are manufactured a hole is drilled for the sensor.....since they are manufactured at different locals and slightly inconsistent in the manufacturing process...they are "measured" then a shim (stainless) is dispenced and installed using a "drive rivet" to give the sensor (injected molded housing)the proper clearance between the splined rotor which provides the pulsed signal through the sensor to the ABS sys......over time rust builds up between caliper body and shim....."pushing" the sensor away from the caliper housing and in turn the sensor is too far away from spline to give a good signal....the clearance between the internal rotating spline and the sensor should be about ..005"- .010 " very close...( a quick check is to use ohm meter...check resistence between sensor leads,you should have continuity, then spin hub. there should be noticible change in ohms..now the ABS system will get a clean signal thus no more Motor City shakedown
Thanks in advance for all any input.
--
CY
I had the lowers replaced at 41K miles, and they are gone again at 48K. In addition, the shocks, upper ball joints, and one idler arm need replacement.
Am I to live in fear forever with the radio off and the window down so I can hear if my wheels are about to fall off? This truck has only been maintained (every 3000 miles) at the dealer.
I recently found out that my turn signals on my truck were not working AT ALL. My cruise control and windshield wipers on the turn signal work and my flashers will work, so i know it is not the bulbs, but it will not even blink on the dash board when i turn on the turn signals either. I was reading in the chilton manual that there is a turn signal relay/module by the cigarette lighter......could this be the problem or would it be the actual turn signal switch itself???
I'd do this ...
Check a couple bulbs (just to be sure and it only take a couple minutes)
Buy a new relay and swap it out (or swap it with another truck ...)
If these fail - get out the schematic and the test light ....
OTHER THAN CHANGING OUTPUT HOUSING, will the output shaft from my 4 speed interchange with the 5 speed's guts?
connecter in the back of your instrument cluster " Gauge Pod". Your transmission shifts gears based on a signal from the "vehicle speed sensor". This sensor is also used to turn the Seedometer. If you have a bad connection to the instrument
cluster, or damage to that connection, if will cause your gas gauge not to work, your truck not to sift right, turn signal problems, etc. Any curcuit that runs through the printed curcuit on the back of the "cluster". Usually, the connectors are just misaligned in there sockets.
This could also be caused by a loose ground to the cluster, check your main dash ground located in the lower left corner of the dash, above the E-brake, 14 or 16 gauge black wire.
That should get you fixed-up!
problem. I would not recommend buying parts, as this could even be a damaged ECM. The factory service manual from a dealer will tell you step by step tests for each part, including the wiring harness.
I don't think is an obstructed fuel line because the problem seems to be very random and it's not using too much fuel nor lack power of anything when its running good. Then if i turn off the engine for 1hr or more, then it starts just like new. Any ideas how to find out what it is? I hope i can find out what it is, because i'm about to sell the damn thing. Thanks :confuse:
Just a thought ... maybe you have two problems ?? 1 is the rough running and the second is the clutch itself?? When you put in in gear with the clutch in - it should not change the engine speed - providing - the clutch is really adjusted correctly. Perhaps the clutch needs adjustment as it is still slightly rubbing on the flywheel when the clutch is in ???
I have checked the fuel pump its working fine.
Thanks,
Canufixit
Action:
To address the above mentioned condition, General Motors is providing owners with special warranty coverage. If this condition occurs on your 1998 or 1999 model GMC Sonoma truck within 7 years of the date your vehicle was originally placed in service or 70,000 miles (112,000 km), whichever occurs first, the condition will be repaired for you at no charge.
I originally was thinking of going to the dealer and having them flush and replace it. Although, I've been looking around on the internet and reading horror stories about Dexcool. Can you switch back to the classic blue green antifreeze after Dexcool if the system is flushed thoroughly? Or should I just stick with the dexcool?
TPM could be TPS, which is throttle position sensor. I had mine replaced
2 weeks ago because at a stop, when trying to throttle up, it would lurch and
studder like it was out of gas, when I shut down the motor and started it again,
it would run fine, I have seen alot of simular problems on the site, and this is a
common problem for the 2.2L. so try replacing the sensor, they run about $45
atleast, mine did. good luck, hopes this helps T