Edmunds dealer partner, Bayway Leasing, is now offering transparent lease deals via these forums. Click here to see May lease deals!
Options
Chevy S10/GMC S15-Sonoma: Problems & Solutions
This discussion has been closed.
Popular New Cars
Popular Used Sedans
Popular Used SUVs
Popular Used Pickup Trucks
Popular Used Hatchbacks
Popular Used Minivans
Popular Used Coupes
Popular Used Wagons
Comments
If the connections are ok at the tank, it usually means the pump's dinked.
For the rest of the problems, start looking for a loose or corroded ground.
I saw your post - and decided that, eventually, my cables would go as well (2002 GMC Sonoma 36K and alwarys garaged at home)- so I clicked over to NAPA and bought a set - they arrived last Thursday.
As luck would have it - I climbed up on the tail gate Saturday to sweeep out the truck - and you can guess what happened !!! Yup - one broke . !!! The other was failing (Inside corrosion inside the the cable Vinyl jacket) at the bottom of the loop ..)
For others - THIS IS A DANGEROUS thing to happen (and a definate design or mfg flaw -a the cable ends are open for water entry - the aftermakets were sealed (Clever Chinese)!!) !! I was just was climbing up on the tailgate - but If I had a heavy machine on the tail gate - I could have gotten seriously hurt and damaged the truck the cargo etc.!!!
I'm not real pleased with the E-Clip install - it should of at least had a backup washer for stability so it will not "angle" and snap out the clip - another project I'll do later in the winter ..)
This needs a re-call !!1
Thanks !!! (Took me about an hour to do too ...)
Canufixit
I Think the issues would be with the "Weakest links" in the drive train - In this case the U joint and the Tires (Friction to the road).
When intense power is suddenly applied - something has to give. I think most of us have spun the tires... Should this weak link be greater then the next (due to fat /sticky tires), I'd think the next thing to go would be the U-joints ..
So my overall point is - if the Axels are not the "weak link - then they should not be the problem. But, When you Beef up everthting else (UJoints, Fat / oversized tires, etc.) - the next thing will go - perhaps the axels or the gears in the drive train ...
Canufixit ...
Any ideas??? Thanks
http://www.autozone.com/images/cds/gif/large/0900823d8018c183.gif
Any help will be gratefully received.
Thanks,
Digger6
Thanks In Advance for any assistance!
Thanks!
Thanks
The problem: Temperature gauge reading goes up to max 310 degrees and moves up and down the scale, even after 5 minutes of driving and for longer periods.
What is the cause of this problem? The dealer says it could be a bad thermostat gasket or or anything for that matter.
Thansk
Ken38
END
##
If so - check for vacuum to / throught the Vacuum hose to the master cylinder/Vac boost... Also, it's possible that; the internal diaphram in the power brake booster/master cylinder is leaking - or that the entire master cylinder / Vacuum boost unit needs replacement.
How's the engine running at Idle ??? Runnining smooth ?? Or is there a possible /suspect a vacuum leak ??
Also you can try (in a SAFE AREA / empty large parking lot !!) disconnecting the vac hose and then try the brakes - if it's the same it may be one of the above suggestions ....
Good Luck !!!
The Cap is just loose - or -
Overfilling tank causes the vacuum hose at the filler neck to suck in gas - it will do similar ...
Canufixit
Josh
Or temp sending unit run ohms from ground signal check to see you dont have a hole rubbed in the wire if contacked with ground it would send the gauge into a high reading.
good luck
you have two temp seding units on this unit one for the gauge has one wire, one for the computer has two wires if this one has gone bad the pc thinks your s10 is always cold
if you have a scaner compare these sending unit against each other or use a temp gun to compare.
next the idle air contol valve IAC take it off and clean it
located on the throttle body.
last damping valve or isulator tube. its just a 3/8" hose in your tank that connect the fuel pump to the feed line over time it get a small hole in it your fuel pressers look ok at idle but not under a load it drops enough of this pressure through this pin hole to not pop the injectors.
Good luck
Good luck
you should have the shop look at this you need to know what the fault was. this truck can set a emissions failure fault and still run and fill fine because the computer will make adjustments to compensate. but this can somt times create even more problems and cost more money. If you saw the cap turn the light off replace it.
have change plug / fuel filter / and it has a new fuel pump any ideas thanx
Thoughts?
MAF :shades: