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Chevy S10/GMC S15-Sonoma: Problems & Solutions
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My thought here is that the timing chain/belt (or Gear teeth) has let go/broken. If the valves do not move (broken chain / Stripped gear) you'll have some/most? of the valves open / partially open and not cycling - therefore no intake/vacuum. Also, if the chain/belt ships links/notches (due to worn Grear/stretched chain/belt) - the ingnition timing my way out ...
What's the mileage on the beast ???
Good Luck !!
If not, get out the ohm meter and trace the wire from bulb back. Remember, per your symptoms, the problem is that the voltage is NOT going off when the trun signas go on ... trace this back - not the stop light circuit ...
The V6 engines (4.3 liter) generally have a long lifespan. 200 to 250 thousand miles is not uncommon for these engines if well-maintained.
The other day the service engine light came on. - computer said fuel emission problem.
Stopped at the service station to fill up because it was down to 1/4 tank. (accurate according to the km driven since last fill up) The gas cap fairly well flew off when it was loosened. And could only get 10L of gas in. Tried twice more within the next 2 days and only got a total of 7 more litres in. :mad: I am going to try to syphon gas to the bottom of the tank with a hose to try to dislodge what I think must be an air lock.
What do you or any one else think? Suggestions?
Thanks
Per the other responses so far ... I agree, there's just to litttle mileage for a major worn out component. So, I do as they say ... Check anything that has an adjustment.. Wheel bearings, Steering box adj, etc. ...
oh Yeah, one other thing it coould be - is a rubber bushing rot out from age - please check any you see - especially in the ideler arm.
And, As the truck sat so long - check the tires for flat spots ,,,,,
Good Luck and let us know what happens !!!
When I repacked the wheel bearings at 30K one side was too tight, almost ruined the bearing, really I should have checked them myself after the dealer adjust.
The wheel had to be loose it, it was wandering, it took effort to keep it straight. Its a simple procedure if you have never done it before.
Steve in CA.
Is the oil cooler line leaks a common problem on the s-series? I think I may have the same problem with the oil cooler lines. Last oil change I noticed that where the lines and PS lines come near each other were a a little wet, but I did not know if the wetness was from the oil cooler lines or the PS lines. Wiped and smelled the fluid but couldn't detect if it was oil or not and a wipe of the area couldn't tell if it was oil, or a combo of things. The areas where the oil lines install into the cooler and into the block above the oil filter mount were dry. Plus, I wasn't low on oil so I just wiped the lines and left it at that.
But I noticed I got a small drip area on the garage floor near the same area. Also talked to a guy at the local Firestone and he stated it's a common occurrence and absolutely, positively sure it was the cooler lines. But wanted to not only charge for the cooler lines but also to run die through the motor to make sure. If you're sure it's the cooler lines, why the dye job :confuse: So was just wondering if this was really a common occurrence.
I just put new tires on it after 72,000 miles, and the shimmy is still there. No one I ask who drives one of these trucks (extended cab S10/GMC Sonoma) which have a 2-piece drive shaft, admits to noticing a shimmy. I tried several (11 or more) new/used, 4-cyl/6/cyl, standard/automatic, and they ALL have the shimmy. Most are worse than mine, and the worst I drove was a new '01 Sonoma 4X4. The image in the outside mirrors was not discernable due to the vibration.
Anyone else notive this?
As for the dye test, it is not a bad idea. In my case, I had two leaks: one with the oil cooler lines and the other one through the intake manifold gasket.
What I meant was - sometimes the Belts in the tires will take a "Set" of they sit in the same location for a long period of time. There was one tire (Aramid ?? or something like that) that they took off the market due to the belts doing this -especially in the cold weather. So, I thought that since the tires we old and that he truck obviously sat for some time (as it's older with low mileage) the belts may be trying to "Steer" the car or cause wheel hop.....
I'm all ears as to what you find out .....
Thanks to everybody for your ideas and the good discussion. I'll keep you posted on tomorrow's test drive.
Also, I'm still keeping an open mind about the tires being a factor in the steering. I know they look like new, but I've never driven on 7-8 year old tires that have been sitting around like this, so I don't know what to expect. My tires usually get replaced due to treadwear, or the sidewalls crack way before 7-8 years.
A fully warmed up engine is critical to learning the variation correctly. If a valid learn occurs, no other learns can be completed on that ignition cycle.
If the engine cuts out before the specified learn procedure engine speed or at normal fuel cut-off rpm, the PCM is not in the learn procedure mode. Review the Crankshaft Position System Variation Learning Procedure and re-enable the learn procedure. Verify that the scan tool displays Test in Progress.
Thanks for the info. Will be taking the vehicle in this week to have it given the "once over". Looked at the hoses on Saturday and the rubber is wet. If it is the cooler lines will definitely have them replaced because as you stated, if one or both lines go, no oil and new engine time.
When you had your rig repaired, do you know if the dealership installed the same hoses, or if there was an improved version, like a later revision hose with more reliable crimping installed? Would hate to have this problem become a nickel/dime type thing (went through that before on another vehicle).
Thanks
My 1999 S10 has been a perfect angel for all of its 201,000+ miles.
Monday, I stopped for a soda on my way to work.
When I got back to my truck, it wouldn't start.
"Clickity clickity clickity" is all I heard.
Dead Battery...right?
Right...so I got a jump from another car.
Both Starter & Engine would turn over, but it will not start.
I had it towed home.
There, I noticed the Fuel Pump wasn't priming at start-up.
How can I tell if the Fuel Pump Relay is bad?
The initial problem was a dead battery...is the Alternator causing the shut down?
When I turn over the engine...the volt meter only reads 9
Think an OBDII code reader point out the trouble?
A smart suggestion from a co-worker (ex-GM Tech)
was to take one of the Fuel Pump relays and switch it around with another relay.
So, I tried that...nothings changed.
The hunt continues.