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Mazda Protege5
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Comments
The numbers....
Tank Ltr/100 Cnd MPG -- US MPG
1 -- 6.80 -- 41.38 -- 34.81
2 -- 6.92 -- 40.61 -- 34.16
3 -- 7.42 -- 37.89 -- 31.87
4 -- 8.17 -- 34.40 -- 28.94
5 -- 7.18 -- 39.16 -- 32.94
6 -- 7.91 -- 35.54 -- 29.89
7 -- 7.22 -- 38.94 -- 32.76
Avg -- 7.38 -- 38.10 -- 32.05
I was very impressed with my first two tanks of gas. I use cruise at 120kph (72mph) and didn't need the A/C until the third tank (which was the only tank that the A/C was on) . Tank 4 was in the Blue Ridge Parkway plus back highways with lots of revs being used which should explain the lower number. Don't know what happened to tank 6, oh yeah, that was getting through Lexington Kentucky with the pre-morning rush hour traffic. Most of the slow lane of traffic was moving at 130kph (80mph) and faster which helped get us through there very quickly. The only thing that bothered me was the number of truck on the freeways. In the higher density areas it usually left only one lane for cars as the trucks would take up two and sometimes three lanes of traffic. I don't have a solution for this so I will say nothing more on that.
cheers.
ps. Sorry for all of the --'s as I couldn't get it to align properly in here.
Bruno
Today I spent 1.5 hours driving the same distance it usually takes me 5 minutes. NO LIE. Damn, fuel spill on I-95. I am glad I had an auto
btw, bruno, i disagree that auto runs at lower rpm. auto is a 4speed and manual is 5. so when you are at 80mph in 5 gear, your rpms will be less than 80 in 4th. at 80, i am at around 3600.
For the Protege5 (and the Protege ES):
The 5th gear (5-sp manual) has a ratio of 0.755 and a final drive ratio of 4.105. The overall ratio is 0.755*4.105=3.100.
The 4th gear (4-sp auto) has a ratio of 0.725 and a final drive ratio of 3.904. The overall ratio is 0.725*3.904=2.830.
Since they use the same tires, the engine mated to the 5-sp will run 10% faster than the one mated to the 4-sp auto (assuming the lockup torque converter is engaged) at the same speed.
Of course, it is more convenient. Makes it easier to drive while talking on the cell.
If I want convenient, I'll take the bus. ;-)
(Note to auto owners: I'm pulling your leg. The difference isn't that big.)
what's bus? Don't know in Houston!
Bruno
Bruno
Bruno
cheers.
sharon
thanks for the reminder Sharon.
btw, maltb and js9297, the s-plan document states that a dealer cannot charge a "document fee".
when i bought the car i paid the document fee and the dealers fee. the document fee is required in the state of florida and its a percentage of the vehicle price. the dealers fee is the fee printed on the buyers order. so does the document fee that s-plan refers to is the dealer's fee or the state document fee. please help. also the dealer never gave me all the s-plan papers like stated in the s-plan rules.
I didn't even notice that! I would change the date but I think it's too late as I already have a dozen RSVPs including two people from out of state (Arizona and Texas!). I will try to plan it better next time... Sorry about that.
-Jerry
Since FLA is wierd and has a state "doc" fee, :-) I would focus on the "other" language in the S-Plan brochure.
Although called a "doc fee", I imagine the state fee is more of a tax, registration, or similar type fee. Most states charge a sales tax (or special vehicle sales tax), which is a percentage of the vehicle's price, plus registration fees, which are set amounts.
When your dealer charged a "dealers fee" you SHOULD ask him what it is for. You might want to do so before you show him the brochure!
In the brochure, it says: "The dealership may not charge separately for document preparation or other administrative services incidental to the delivery of the vehicle."
On the last page it says: "My dealer insists on charging a 'documentation fee.' Is this allowed? No. Fees for document preparation or similar administrative services are not allowed."
I don't know what your dealer will claim the "dealer's fee" is for, but I bet you it is for some "administrative" service. This is not allowed, despite what he calls it. If you ask him to explain the fee before you show him the brochure, he cannot weasel out of it.
In my opinion, the language is very clear: those types of administrative fees are "not allowed." I would therefore focus on the language beginning with "other" and "similar", instead of the exact name of the fee.
BTW: my fee was called a "processing fee", not a "documentation fee". But it was clear the fee was for document processing and other services incidental to delivery. They have agreed to refund it, and have already cut a check.
I know that if the parking brake is pulled up one notch, then the DRL's will turn off.
For the record, I think DRL's are a great idea. I still don't understand the opposition to them.
but please go to that forum to get first-person feedback of these lowering springs.
good luck!
Sharon
Go down the Home Depot (or anywhere) and buy a 3'x5' rubber backed carpeted door mat. It's about $20(us). Take your factory hatch carpet out and flip it upside down on top of the door mat. Chalk the outline and cut it out. I used a propane torch to melt the edges of the carpet to make sure it wouldn't fray out (you just have to pass it over and the carpet melt). If you like you can even cut the slots for the cargo tie downs. Again I used the torch to melt the carpet around the tie down slots.
I was going camping this last weekend and I needed something to protect my baby. (GRIN)
Up was mostly "spirited" interstate driving and coming back was a mix of Highway, city and cruisin thru the Adirondacks at again a spirited pace. Man I love this car.
IIRC, the 7 years was just over $1000 CDN.
The front of the envelope, which had either accidentally or intentionally been opened before it got to our house, said: "Careful: Glass enclosed"
Anyone know what the missing glass is?
Thanks
--Chris
My silver beauty was purchased 9/1/01 and I have just over 17,000 miles in 9 months.
www.edmunds.com The best?
www.intellichoice.com Value ratings and reviews.
www.digitalcars.com Model Comparison Financing
www.carbuyingtips.com Help avoid scams,do I really need that $500.00 prep fee?
www.pricecentral.com Online loan comparison
www.consumerguide.com Crash course on Financing
i just got my welcome package, its the same as limpyboys. i too noticed the label saying "Caution, glass enclosed!"
ive heard most people got touch up paint. i want some too!
EMAIL MM@mazdausa.com
For more information, see this thread on protegeclub.com. I posted the same info there. Hope this helps.
http://www.protegeclub.com/forum/showthread.php?s=&threadid=1519&highlight=mazdausa+email
-Yes, I identified myself as being eligible for the S-Plan. There is nothing special on my order or invoice, but they showed my the S-Plan price on the invoice, and gave me the discount. The invoice is written showing the MSRP, and then discounts off that to get to the final price. Again, no specific mention of the S-Plan, but they knew I was buying it based on that price.
Student?
TIA
I've read complaints on other P5 forums that people with Red and Yellow paint complain that it chips very easily. I haven't heard that complaint from people with the metallic colors (gray, for example, and I think the blue is metallic, too).
I have a 93 MX-6, and my only complaint over the years was that the bright red paint seemed to chip easily, and has severely faded/"chalked" over time. I mentioned this to some other Mazda fanatics online a few years back, and they commented that the non-metallic paint Mazda uses looks fantastic (and almost wet) brand new, but is considered a "soft" paint and not terribly durable.
Based on early to mid-'90s MX-6s and 626s I've seen with metallic paint, they seem to have aged much better.
So...all this said, do any of you older Mazda owners agree? Any idea if the newer glossy paints are more durable?
I LOVE the red P5 paint. It's the color I really want. But I'm wondering if the white or gray might age better.
Thanks!
My friend's '02 Subaru Impreza TS wagon (blue colour) has way more chips than my '01 black mica Pro.