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If that's the case, then are you sure it's not just overfilled and being forced out when the coolant expands with temperature?
AutoZone like 60 bucks. Thanx for everybodys feed back on this problem
Ps
Btw my trans temp went from about 170 to going back in the trans around 107 to 98 now the rad doesn't have to work as hard and I ran the lines in the rad and out to the trans cooler back to the trans it self and it is
Mounted in front of my ac condinsor work Awesome
:shades:
Sorry for misspelling or things that might make no since I typed this on an iPhone. My eyes are crossed now
I went to the dealer and thye repaleced the upper hose with cap and they replaced the t-stat $595 what a joke. I could have done it myself for $120 dollars truth is it didnt help the clutch fan is in good condition the a/c fan works and it has the right antifreeze which i believe to be bs.
Im not wasting the time replacing the radiator and the water pump to have it still over heat and then repalce the engine its a waste of time these trucks are lemons everyone of them. how the hell does a 2004 do the same thing with low miles.
I guess everyone is wasting there time and money just like i have been. Im selling my back to the dealer for $2500 and cutting my losses. I am going to buy a second hand chevy tahoe built like a rock. feel bad for the sorry [non-permissible content removed] that buys my 2000 durango from the dealer for $8000 **** dodge.
o2 sensor problems and idling problems its your coils or injectors for sure been through that ****...
Any more suggestions???? What thermostat do you have?
Please let me know what you find I'll be happy to give you my opinion
We have not replaced the radiator ... I guess we might try that. We did remove the thermostat but it is still running hot. So I guess we will try the radiatior???
Did you replace the radiator with a 2,3, or 4 core??
To feel it with your hand. Usually the cooler spots are the areas that have no flow or little flow. If you heads are fine then I would be willing to bet that the rad fixes the problem. I think just the factory replacement would be more then fine. I would how ever flush the cooling system before the new rad is install to help prevent the same thing happening again. I think I paid like 170 for mine.... I think? If you can find a2 or 3 wall for a good price then go with that. You might try calling 1800 radiator that might be able to get you a really good deal. That is who I normally use. Keep me post on the progress
Thnx, Mike
Mike
Another Question ... my gas mileage is only about 12mpg ... I used to average 16mpg ... the Durango does have 240K miles ... Do you have any ideas on how I could increase the mileage???
I found out that i read some where that dodge durango radiators cam out the factory's clogged funny but true i know and i also read that after 1k it it recommended to change your fan clutch i wanted a electric but was scared they would screw up the wiring.My vehicle was only over heating when i was idle at a light all the way up not just a little then would try to cool down after i moved so i figured maybe the radiator or hoses were clogged long story short i spent about 350 dollars new radiator, new clutch and also new water pump i figured since there all in same spots it would be gd to get all done at once. Im proud to say my problem it totally fix i really think it was the clutch fan as i really hear it now but didn't before i know it should kick in but im pretty sure it wasn't and the radiator was very clogged radiator flushes ive been down that road that's a waste of money imo since that will only clean out soft debris all the rocks and pebbles that get stuck in there wont dissolve b4 when i started my vehicle it would take about 3 mins to reach half way hot then once i got on highway forget about it now that damn needle barley moves till like after 25 mins of driving and when its warm it stays under the middle way mark imo check clutch fan it man be moving but if its worn it will not cool effectively enough to keep your radiator fluid cool in and out the engine thank for reading my post hope this helps somebody last note i 134k on my engine 4.7 2004 durango slt.
2. With the 4.7 it needs about 3.5 gallons, more or less somewhat based on which radiator (standard or HD). Any good mechanic won't ask the customer how much it needs, they will find out themselves (or will already know).
3. Overheating at low speeds or idling is normally due to loss of airflow due to cooling fans (either mechanical clutch or electric) not operating normally, but can also be due to a clogged radiator.
I have checked the coolant levels, non appears to be leaking. The car has just under 140,000 miles on it.
Any advice would be greatly appreciated.
Thanks
Good. I would to air and fuel filter. Aside from that I would go next 2'fill ups and put sea foam in the tank. Napa sells it and I'm sure other do to. Bit expensive but it will get rid of water in the gas.
Try that and let me know how you make out
Thnx mike
Ps spell problem very bad long day at work very very tired and typing on my iphone">link title<a href="
Fought the problem and replaced the damaged radiator as well. Still smelled antifreeze and kept losing coolant as well. Found a small puddle behind front passenger tire and traced it to a device on the firewall (passenger side). After much research, the problem and solution was to replace this - the auxiliary water pump. The air is cold because this pump isn't working and probably has a leak causing the overheating as well. found one online through ebay for $89, same as OEM but Bosch (better). This overheating also caused my water pump to weep as well and replaced it too.
Good luck.
Ben
Please let me know what you find out
Thnx mike
I had the same problem. I got a replacement auxiliary water pump from dodgeparts.com. I think that it is made by bosch. The pump can suddenly stop causing lots of antifreeze to flow out of the over flow. You then look for leaks and find nothing. Costs about $125 and is a 15 minute fix.
I still have to go to counter measures and go full heat in stop and go traffic but the sudden overheating has stopped.
I have only used synthetic oil and changed every 3k
Replaced auxilliary water pump after sudden loss of antifreeze. Replaced antifreeze twice. Works great in Winter. Temp gauge will creep up on hot days at slow speeds. I use an auxilary electric fan and turn heater on. I call the procedure counter measures. AC works best on high way and I have been adding Freon more often then I should. Ultra Violet check showed no leaks in o rings. I am worried that When hot weather comes in May, overheating could rear its ugly head. I am considering selling the vehicle, changing the water pump and temp gauge, replacing with a larger radiator, and trying to flush out the grit mentioned by another poster.
I did not quite understand how the timing chain cover fits into the equation.
I have a 2002 4.7 SLT with tow package
I've changed the core myself on the same SUV. It's a big job that you need the right skills to do. The dash needs to be removed or pulled way back out of the way and the A/C will need to be discharged and recharged for two.
If needed you can bypass the core by removing the hoses from the metal pipes under the intake plenum and connecting a hose between them.
MY QUESTION IS I KNOW I HAVE A REVERSE FLOW STYLE WATER PUMP BUT WHEN IT'S RUNNING HOW FAST SHOULD THE WATER FLOW BE WHILE LOOKING AT IT THROUGH THE TOP RADIATOR HOSE. BECAUSE THE FLOW I SEE IS HARDLY ANY AT ALL. DO THEY MAKE A HIGH VOLUME WATER PUMP THE KIND WITH METAL FINS IN STEAD OF THE PLASTIC CIRCLE DESIGN. ANY IDEAS ?