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Chevrolet Impala: Problems & Solutions
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Comments
As for the doors not unlocking, if you check your manual there's a way to set your preferences via the radio to turn that feature on and off...I've always had mine set to lock automatically, but to NOT unlock when I park...figuring that could provide an opportunity for someone to jump into my car unexpectedly.
NO idea if the car won't move at all though...how many miles do you have on yours, and how long have you had the noise? If the noise is the sign of a pending problem that leads to the car not moving, that might be the incentive I need to have mine looked at now while it's still mobile!!
Help! my blower motor went bad and I replaced but now it will only work on 5. Also sometimes my car starts and sometimes it does not I turn the key and when it gets to start nothing happens no noise or anything.
please help
Please help me!
OK, well it first started when my 2002 Impala LS 3.8 V6 started idling at about 1500 at start-up. I figured that was kind of high and when I would let it run a few minute she would go back down to normal. Last week, she started this weird thing where the RPMS would all of a sudden jump up to about 2500, then bounce down to 500, then feel like it was going to stall. But it would not. This is when the car was in park.
Now she has decided to die while driving. This is a pain as I really do not want to die at such a young age. I have changed the MAP sensor, fuel filter. Tuesday is a complete plug and wire change, as well as a new crankshaft position sensor. If anyone has any insight on this problem please help me. I would like to stop spending all of my money on this car. BTW, she only has 33000 miles on her. Thanks in advance to anyone who can help. :P
:sick:
I have excellent reception-- no prob.
Rodger
1. Disconnect the electrical connection to the defrost grid (rear glass area) and forgot to hook it back
2. The tinting material may have metalic content and it short the connection of the defrost grid to ground. But with that, at least the fuse for the defroster should be burned out.
So for sure, check the electrical connection to the defroster. Use a Voltmeter to measure the voltage to the grid when the Rear Defroster button is pushed to see if there is power there.
jt
turn signals: may be your hazard switch, on some of these,
the hazard switch gets an intermittant open and interrupts
the operation of the turn signals.
radio/defrost: get your defroster wiring checked. The radio shares the back glass with your defroster. If the wiring is screwy, the radio can static up when the defroster is being used.
What should I do? I love the car but I can't keep putting money into it... and with the tranny loan and the car payment I could have had an suv at this point, but owe way more than the car is worth now...
any suggestions in any direction would help, thanks!
joe
What is an ISS???
Thanks,
griffman
Before you change it out consider using a fuel injector cleaner, if you have not done so. The float could just be hung up because of it sticking in one position. I was ready to replace mine also, but tried the injector solution and it worked. But not before I had already bought the sender unit. If you find that you really need to change out the sender, let me know I have the unit you need, but it won't cost you $200, closer to half new in the box. Good luck.
Did you ever figure what was wrong with this?? I have two 2001 with this problem and on top of that both have battery drains happenign too!!! I had the radiator replaced, water pump, thermastat checked and everything else in the one and no luck. Scary part is is when I have the system flused they both work for about a day or so and they just stop working????? Let me know as I would appreciate any help!!! Thanks in advance! Joe
There was a very similar post on another thread (from search of term "flutter"): "...It's kind of like a fluttering. It is noticeable and a bit annoying...The worse moments are coming around a corner when the vehicle has decelerated and then you want to accelerate coming out of the turn...From what I have read there is not much to be done; this has something to do with the computer controlled throttle and transmission...."
I'm hoping that my problem is one that they can fix.
-Faulty thermastat (stuck open) caused engine to run cold.
-Module (PCM) senses faulty thermastat function and reacts for worst case
>... fans set to run all the time like engine is very hot... but it's not
> .... engine runs even cooler.
When you pulled the fuse for the PCM, you likely reset error codes in yours ... until it detects the faulty thermastat operation again.
Hope this helps.