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1. Remove the plastic injector cover (aka valve cover)
2. Remove the clip at the top of each injector. Use a hook pick and just pull the clip sideways. Remove the fuel injector return lines from the top of each injector.
3. Take a small vice grip and squeeze this line closed at the rear of the engine head or just behind the number five injector fitting. You are just keeping fuel from coming out of this line while cranking.
4. Buy a couple feet of 3/8" ID clear vinyl tubing at Ace hardware. Cut yourself five 4" pieces of this tubing. Now your going to install the tubing onto the top of each injector, the tube will fit nice and snug around each injector top where you removed the return lines. Now you should have five clear pipes sticking up off your injectors. These will be like beakers that capture bypassed fuel that is forced through the injector during cranking.
5. Disconnect the cam sensor near the number five injector, this will keep the engine from starting.
6. Crank the engine for about 30 seconds non stop. Take a look at your injector tubes. You should not have more than about a 1/4" to 1/2" of fuel in those tubes, if you have an 1" or more or more fuel in one tube than another you have a bad injector or a whole set of bad injectors. Lets not be super picky here an 1/8" difference is not an issue between injectors. Im talking an inch in one injector and a 1/4" in another.
Roy
Thanks a bunch in advance!!!!
Jim B.
The first time the the dealer changed out the module fuel tank, filter, and fuel hose and with labor the repairs came to $1116.00. The second time I took it in for the same issues, they replaced other things and the bill came to $1600.00. Now it is in the garage the third time, but this time the engine died when I turned a corner at 5 mph and I restarted it, but it would not go, as soon as I pressed the gas pedal, it would die. It would, however, go in reverse, so I backed up out of the way of traffic.
Are there any suggestions on what I should do? My warranty was over at 85,000 miles and the van is at 89,000 miles now. Should I tell the dealership that they should have fixed it right the first time and demand they fix it for free? Or should I just go to a Mercedes dealer? Any ideas would be greatly appreciated.
Andtay
you buy your fuel. They also dropped the tank and flushed the system. They had tried the fuel rail and everything else even the wireing harness before they finally found the problem. Fuel starvation due to clogged injectors.
Blessings
Thanks,
Karl
Did the instrument cluster FIX the problem?
DIDN'T fix the problem.
Tested terminal 15 at Cluster.
When it stalls it loses power at 15 at the cluster.
Need to trace 15 from the cluster and find its cause for loss.
The next day in the morning it started normally and ran about 2 minutes and died. Now when I crank, I feel like it lost the cylinder compression. It looks like timing problem.
Has anyone had a similar problem? Is it possible that this engine, with this mileage can get a problem with timing? Any suggestions? Desperate for help!!
So the problem, with 75% surety, is to get your sprinter to a certified sprinter shop and have them check the engine wiring harness
Joe
Sprinterman928
You can test by jumper cable motor to Ground Post TOO. It will turn over but slow.
Mercedes Dealer tells me I should replace everything, starting the turbo and the EGR, another certified sprinter serice dealer tells, the main computer needs to be replaced (2300$)...not sure what to do now...any advise. Van has been serviced every 6 months and is in very good shape otherwise
My first time Edmonds, sorry to hear all the trouble you guys are having, I have a 2005 freight sprinter, 25000K Diesel 100% love it, runs like a bull etc, HOWEVER bad brakes, pedal goes to the floor in the morning, after pumping about 20 times have good pedal and great stoping power, however on interstate if you dont use the brake for 15 minutes pedal goes way down, scares the hell out of me, Im a master mechanic had 4 master cylinders, was at dealers for 2 months, with factory rep, replaced, booster, master rotors etc, they put all the old parts back on and said, get it the hell out of here NO CHARGE, LOVE the vehicle but still brake problems, Im going to try to install a later year master if possible, If I ever cure it Ill be sure to llet you guys know how I did it, BIG JOHN 88 yrs old and still doing my own work, also aircraft
Not sure, but there might be a hydraulic pump in the ABS That could give you a problem if it wasn’t working right.