Edmunds dealer partner, Bayway Leasing, is now offering transparent lease deals via these forums. Click here to see the latest vehicles!
Options
Popular New Cars
Popular Used Sedans
Popular Used SUVs
Popular Used Pickup Trucks
Popular Used Hatchbacks
Popular Used Minivans
Popular Used Coupes
Popular Used Wagons
Comments
I love the way this car drives now. The urge to own a BMW has now subsided. BTW, the bushings may need to be relubed every year or 2. I have done mine twice. The last time just today, but I cheated and just used spray lube. Silicone, flushed in with a shot of spray lube. Probably shouldn't use oil on poly though. I'm thinking about drilling through the bracket and bushing with a small bit, then enlarging the bracket hole and installing a grease zerk. AB, where are you. Did you get rid of your AV and leave the group? Anyone know?
Note 2: New Bushings appear to be improved with grooves on the inner surface. (may grip the sway bar better)
Rex K
Your struts are LONG LONG overdue for replacement. Along with the struts, you should inspect, and possibly replace, the strut MOUNTS--which are steel + rubber mounting points for front and rear suspension. These rubber mounts flex and give the suspension some "give" against various stresses and forces. Over time these rubber mounts can tear. So if they don't look good, now's the time to replace them as well, along with the strut.
Then you will also need alignment, which might be another $80 bucks or so.
Yes, a complete strut + mount replacement is expensive, but you've let it go far too long, so in terms of mileage, you've come a long way. You are certainly going to notice the difference.
Labor to replace struts should be about 5 hours total. Parts cost can vary considerably depending on the quality of the parts you choose.
Sounds like your labor quote is about right but the parts do sound a bit high. I don't see you getting away with less than $1000 bucks no matter how you cut it, if you have the work done competently and you use quality parts.
My ride ( 2000 Avalon XLS ) recently caused 124K miles and I am getting signs that time has come for a suspension job. I used to hear a funny sound ( similar to an empty plastic can bouncing around in the trunk) from the driver side rear area while going over a bad patch on the road since almost 20K miles now and I got used to it and decided to live with it till the time I noticed uneven wear for the driver side rear tire last week ( the outside edge shows more wear than the inside one only for this tire). I have occassionaly also noticed the vehicle pulling to the left at times despite of a wheel alignment job last year.
I read some of the posts on this forum and am confused on what parts ( struts / strut mounts / bushings / sway bars, etc) need to be replaced.
Would like to know what my options are - whether to go for aftermarket parts ? whether only the driver side can be replaced or do I need to replace both the rear struts ? How much it approximately cost me ?
Any inputs would be appreciated.
~A
~A
You are absolutely right...I go fast around the corners too...but the only concern is why the rear tire shows more wear on the edge than the front ?
more troubled with the fact that I hear the noise from around the same tire while going over a bad road patch. Just completed 125K miles on the car. Could a suspension overhaul be needed in your opinion ?
~A
http://www.autozone.com/autozone/parts/Energy-Suspension-Sway-Bar-Bracket-Bushin- g/2000-Toyota-Avalon/_/N-jeloxZ8oxl9?counter=4&filterByKeyWord=energy+suspension- +sway&fromString=search&itemIdentifier=355868_271127_5933_
are these the bushings which you are referring to ?
~A
Mine is 2000 XLS with 205 60 R16 tires.
~A
I also own a 90 Lexus LS 400 with 59k that drives as new. The Avalon is my wifes car, but we both use it as our primary driver.
I guess you still have some time for timing belt / water pump replacement..replaced mine at 120K and it was almost new.
I am not so much of a DIY guy so don't know whether the rear sway bar size for my car too is 17 mm like yours.
there is 50 % on labour on strut replacements going on currently at pepboys and also you get the 4th Monroe strut free if you buy 3 so thinking of replacing them on the weekend.
I know given your experience with KYB you wouldn't think replacing the OEMs with Monroe would be a good idea but anyways not planning to spend much $ on a car which is 11 yrs and 126 K miles old.
~A
After spending $700 + i got the rear struts (Monroe OEMs), strut mounts, sway bar links and bushings replaced at Pepboys.
The clunking did disappear only to return 2500 miles later. Though it is not as bad as before however, i can hear a little rattle with a discerning ear while going over rough patches. What's worse is that this time I hear it from the front too....indicating that it is time to replace the front struts too.
I am going to take the car back to Pepboys for the rear noise because it is still under their 90 day warranty however I am really disappointed and need some direction on what else needs to be replaced
~A
Jerry
I have two questions. At highway speeds, when I apply the brakes there is a significant front end vibration. It's very similar to what I would expect from front end rotors that need turning. Since they had already been machined twice, I replaced the rotors and pads. It didn't correct the problem which leads me to believe it is some type of suspension issue. Any suggestions would greatly appreciated.
Secondly, I'm not 100% confident that I have ever changed the transmission fluid but I think I did a few years ago. I've been told "if it's not broke, don't fix it" or in other words don't change the fluid now because it will cause problems. I really hate not changing it but I don't want to open pandora's box either. Any suggestions?
Thank you for your consideration
Transmission: The fluid has a definite lifespan. After a certain point it fails to lubricate properly so change it and flush the transmission also to get it all out and refill. Yes, it is possible this will cause something negative to happen.... but it will happen anyway if you don't, so do it now and hope for the best.
Brake vibration: Sounds like the rotors are still bad. If it does not vibrate unless you touch the brake pedal at 70 mph.... what else could it be? Inferior rotors, wrong pads or a bad mechanic most likely. Twice is enough milling on the rotors, good call there, not enough left after a third cut. Have a good front end shop check the alignment, struts and related parts... see what they say. Others may have ideas here also....
I had some problems like this with a 2003 Impala. I think the issue is JUNK PARTS from China. The Chinese rotors are really junk and may only last a few thousand miles. I suggest you stick with OEM (Toyota) parts. They may cost more up front but they will not give you problems like the Chinese junkers.
Thanks,
Obafunque
link title
So do I need to change it , and if I change it does the other one need done also (it's not broke)
And any how to video's or illustrations on how to do ?
Much Obliged
Sonny
Not a cheap job so get some quotes:
My "book" says retail pricing (which you can beat) is $138 per strut + 2.8 hours labor total + alignment---so you're around $600 or so.
Is this a difficult job to do if I want to save money and try and do myself? Money is pretty tight right now and the local Toyota Dealer is a crook not to be trusted.
Much Obliged for the help
Sonny
I think a good mid-grade type of strut like KYB would serve you well, and no, I don't think it affects the rear struts. I mean, if you have 80K or more on the car, it would be NICE to do all 4 struts but I don't think you have to, presuming the rear struts are not leaking.
If you have a good instruction book or video say from YouTube, you should be able to do this job but you will need a spring compressor to get the strut off without killing yourself (you can rent these) and you will need a wheel alignment at some point.
Is this a sway bar issue? Or a bushing issue? Or something else?
Hello! First time user and ready to do the following to my 2000 Avalon, but I need your help! #1) PU Bushing modification is recommended first. Has it been confirmed that 17mm bushings are needed for both front and rear on this Avalon? I only see one confirmation on this forum. Can others confirm this? That size is not offered by Energy Suspension. Avy owners were you happy with this modification alone? What were your experiences? Do you recommend both front and rear? #2) KYP G2 Shocks are the second modification I need to do. This apparently keeps your avy from bottoming out and stiffens the ride. I have a 200 avy with 188,000 miles, the shocks were replaced at 38,000k (OEM) they work fine but they bottom out with a little weight on the back...don't like how soft it feels/looks on the back! Thanks guys!!!!!!!!!!!!!