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Besides, strange cars can be dangerous. You don't know WHAT the last person put in that system. Shops occasionally find propane in there.
So I'm going to stick to my $500 estimate on this.
Don't know why they wouldn't fill you with R12. Maybe they don't have any, that is certainly possible, or maybe they don't want to buy it in the usual wholesale quantities just to service your one car.
I just had R12 put into my BMW last week. I did the cleaning, new lines and new dryer and expansion valve, and the system works really really well. It's not cold, it's PAINFUL!
I saw an old can of R12 (about the same size as your average WD-40 can) sitting on the shelf in my grandfather's garage. It had a KMart price tag on it that said "$0.79."
$0.79, that's funny!
-juice
I have a 1990 Miata with approx 98K miles - I love driving the car but it rattles a lot and seems loose. When I look at Miata parts sites (like MMMiata.com) I see lots of parts like a subframe brace, rear brace, rear stabilizer brace bar, sway bars, etc. Our car is not used for racing - just fun drives. What, if anything, will help to solidify the car for a low price and home installation (my husband is handy but not a mechanic) and reduce the amount of rattles?
Thanks in advance!
Add one item at a time in order to really guage how each pice impacts the ride.
What city are you located in? I'm certain that we could point you to a local club where there would be plenty of help installing any of these items.
Let us know what you add and what you think about the changes.
So my '93 has the rear brace, I added the front using C-channel steel as suggested above. Piece of cake, just buy a 2 foot or longer section at the local hardware store, cut to size, and bolt it on. Use the same holes used by Mazda for the 1994 and later models. I fished the bolt down from above using a coat hanger, since access is too tight for your hands.
If you're serious about doing this yourself, I can e-mail you some photos, let me know.
The rear brace has a bend in it, so that would be tougher. I'd yank one from a junk yard, I mean, "parts recycler". ;-)
Cockpit brace too. Though I don't have one.
Though mine still gets shaky above 65 mph so I think the shocks would be the biggest improvement to the ride.
-juice
http://www.miata.net/garage/noises.html
Since juice brought up the subject of shocks, I have 78k miles on my '92 and it is riding a little ragged with the original shocks. Yeah, it is that time pry open the wallet and spend some more money on the car. But I'm trying to keep this as a fun, reliable, and CHEAP vehicle. Preventative maintenance by the book. I'll spend a little bit extra for quality and for sport. After some preliminary shopping, for shocks I'm looking at adjustable Koni's (they are on the wife's bimmer) or the OEM Bilsteins Mazda put on some of the earlier first generation sport package Miatas. Quotes I am getting are about $450-500 for the shocks. And about $240 for installation. I don't want to lower this car, so I'll probably keep the original springs. Anybody have any insight or thoughts on the subject? Thanks.
-juice
1. I used Maguiar's #1 cleaner 2-3 times.
2. Then I used Maguiar's #2 polish twice.
3. Then I put on a coat of Nu Finish.
Now the paint looks almost brand new and I've got quite a pile of reddish pink applicator pads and terry towels.
I've also replaced the weak 20W original speakers to improve the factory head unit. That will go soon as well, but there are other priorities first.
Namely, the soft top is horrible. It provides little protection from the rain and needs a good cleaning...oh well, I look at it as an excuse to get a no-zipper glass window top. My family used to have a professional upholstery shop, so I think we can probably install it ourselves.
outside of the #4 issue, anything else on 99 models that i should be aware of?
thanks.
1. Restore the paint. A few of the body panels, notably the passenger side fender and all of the plastic, were quite faded so I went to Advance auto parts and got some Maguiars. I went to work with the #1 cleaner and used it 2-3 times. I then came back the next day and hit the car with the #2 polish twice. Finally, I used a coat of Nu Finish. After all was said and done, there is little difference between the once faded body panels and the freshly painted ones (driver's door and fender). I even did the hard top even though I still intend to sell it in the future.
2. The coolant in the resevoir was horrifyingly brown and muddy. So I flushed the radiator and put in new coolant. This was remarkably less difficult than I had imagined it to be.
3. Then I changed out the weak 20W factory door speakers with some mid-level 60 W coustic 6.5" units. The stock cassette player doesn't sound great, but it sounds much better than it did before.
4. Then I tackled the soft top. It really does need to be replaced since it doesn't make a water tight seal with the doors and there are a couple of small worn out holes in the very top where the vinyl has little worn through. I plan on replacing it with a Robbins no-zipper glass window top as soon as one becomes available.
Well, that's all for now. I'll post another update as son as I have time to do more work.
Can you experts recommend the best way/product to use on it to clean off the dirt marks and protect it? I may spring for a professional detail this year, but will probably cheap out and do it myself. In any case, I want to do the top now to keep it from getting ratty.
2020 Acura RDX tech SH-AWD, 2023 Maverick hybrid Lariat luxury package.
When I had my 02, all I had to do was wash it with the same car washing soap I used on the rest of the car.
I tried to clean the old top on my '93, but honestly it had been neglected by the previous owner and stains had baked in permanently. A tooth brush and Simple Green didn't do much at all. But then it started cracking and tearing so I changed it.
I have a Robbins with a glass window but with the zipper. It is a little heavier than the plastic so I take my time doing it, still it's not too much of a hassle and only takes me 15-20 seconds to get it down.
-juice
Email me at thel@mchshi.com and we will discuss!
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So far, I can see why many people have both an NA and an NB in their stable. The NB is far more enjoyable to drive and cruise around in, while the NA is just plain fun as bare bones, go-kart like driving goes.
I think that the new turbo Mazdaspeed would make a great compliment to the NA, especially if it had cruise control. With the added power and the ease of use the NB's enjoy, you could have all kinds of driving fun in your garage.
I did get to drive the RX-8 and boy was I disappointed, but that's another story.
Keith R.
RX8 prolly felt like a bull in a china shop. I doubt the course was big enough for it.
-juice
Thanks!
As for the RX8 it was driven on the 'test' course, which was not at all like the race course. Things that I didn't like were the engine's lack of performance and general handling. It didn't help that the RX8 had to be retired early because of a clutch failure... Until I actually drove the RX8 it was my planned daily driver to replace my Miata. I think I'll stick to the Miata - more "fun" to drive!
Keith R.
it doesn't feel like it makes rated power. drive it back-to-back with an S2000 as a comparison...
the far bigger problem, though, is the fuel economy. no one is getting any better than 17 mpg and 11-13 is quite common.
~c
ps, would be a good time to have that "hide" feature back.
Here is a list of clubs in the Carolinas.
Have you made any changes as far as adding bracing? Did any of the braces help?
Mazda can build a new RX7 and make it lighter, addressing the performance and really giving up almost nothing in usefullness.
-juice
Ingtonge18 - not sure which RX8 forum, but on some non-edmunds forums, the numbers are a lot worse. (not that I have seen anyone claim 11 mpg)
Sent you an email to the address listed in your profile with an example thread since 1) we're OT here and 2) edmunds doesn't like participants linking to other car forums.
~Colin
Maybe the seats are right-sized for 8-12 year olds?
-juice
I love my Miata with its manual transmission and quick and tight responsiveness. I just want to make sure I don't have any major issues with it. Have had it for 2 1/2 years and have never had it worked on. Not even breaks. Good car even for someone that is all legs and 6'3".
Anyone with answers?
Jeff (Chaplain)
Mine had strange symptoms: jumpy rpms, spongy clutch pedal. I got a $11 slave cylinder rebuild kit and it runs like new. I took pics if that's what it turns out to be.
-juice
Now if we are talking width of the seat I am not sure. If you are wider then you are tall you could have a problem.
Maybe I'll give it a try next time I'm at a Mazda dealer, just to see.
-juice
At 5'9" 200lbs I had no problems getting in and out of the back seat (after I had set the front to my driving position). My wife and I even debated whether our kids' carseats would fit well. We took our kids in the Cooper with us on our test drive and at the time it was impossible to sit comfortably in the front with a rear-facing infant seat behind you. Boosters are no problems in either car.
Today I'd choose a Cooper S over an RX8, but I'm still driving the Miata, aren't I???
Keith R.
I'm ready to trade in both cars for a fun but practical enough 4 seat convertible that can serve as my only car. Only problem is finding one that fits the bill that doesn't cause sticker shock.
2020 Acura RDX tech SH-AWD, 2023 Maverick hybrid Lariat luxury package.
Anyone able to help on the faded leather seats? see post #3589.
Thanks
Jeff (Chaplain)
http://www.imagestation.com/album/pictures.html?id=4289876491
Basically you replace the lower half of the hydraulic system that moves the clutch. You also bleed the system - my fluid was totally spent. It uses brake fluid.
If you have a consistently firm brake pedal, that's probably not going to help.
-juice