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Comments
Healing Hazy Headlamps
If the tail lights plus the license plate late are not working.
Check the 10Amp fuse under the steering wheel.
Change it if it's already busted. You can get it at any shop for less $5.
Once you change the fuse and it gets busted right away when you turn on the switch. Check the wiring in the rear under your RX. It's possible that some of the wires are touching the body of your vehicle and causing a short. Insulate these wires and you should be good to go. If this is not the case, you may have to bring it in and have them check.
At 38,000 is there enough tread left on the tires for continued use..?
Front, rear, both...??
I think that I would install a new set of tires and only begin to worry if they start showing cupping prior to 35,000 miles.
Lexus (and Toyota/etc) has had a serious spat of strut mounting plate rubber insulator failures that result in a "thunk" or "clunk" sound going over slight bumps at low speed. The struts themselves are just fine but the rubber strut plate insulator is compressed to the point the spring is making metal to metal contact with the strut mounting plate.
Our minds are going the same direction with this as the dealer adjusted the price of the tires so I got the new set for less than the original set of Alenza's I bought nearly five years ago. I don't believe the strut story and I am already heeding your advice. Replacing and then watching... Thanks for the response.
If you do your own work, this is easy to do. I would also clean the fuel injectors with a high-quality spray meant for the same purpose, available at CarQuest or Napa, as well as cleaning the Mass Air Flow Sensor (MAFS) and checking your engine air filter, all part of the same procedure.
The symptoms of a dirty IACV is the engine stumbles when starting (warm weather, cool engine?) and won't start unless you intervene, but it does eventually start and runs normally afterward.
Mine has only done this once, and has not done it again (yet) so I know I'm on warning to go clean it, which I've done before.
Please report back and let us know what you find out.
Pete
Any suggestions to find parts?
Thanks...
Many thanks
I was hoping to be able to add a cheap generic lock solenoid as a "slave" unit add-on as some others have successfully done, but I'm still a little unclear just how until I take the door panel apart, but I don't want the car down for days while I'm trying to match up parts. If anyone has instructions to share (and part source info), I'm interested.
My daughter had sit in that car seat till she was almost 40lbs. My son is only 32lbs. So I don't think weight is the issue.
So my questions are: how could seat belt un-buckle itself? If an adult is sitting in that seat, is the same issue going to happen? Any recommendation to fix the issue? I google, but I didn't find any reference to such an issue. Thanks.
I would then test it without a child in the belted seat, to see if it's just a matter of "clicking" the buckle tightly, to see if it stays locked together when it is buckled correctly.
I would also refer to the child restraint's mounting instructions; I'm no expert, but shouldn't there be another mounting point in addition to the belt? (Really?)
I hope you find your solution, and wish you safe travels...
Gordon
How old is the child..?
http://antennamastsrus.com/Lexus/RX%20300/RX%20300%201999-2003.htm
I did more google. It seem that a person in SC who had a 2002 RX, reported the same issue with the same seat (right rear).
Does it hold when you click it?
I checked NHTSA database. There had been only 1 report of this issue for that generation of RX300. Then I added my case to that database. I don't think there would be a recall of this issue.
Pete
When you remove the 2 screws and the connector and pull the sensor up, you will see there is an obvious filiment. But the actual MAF filiment that needs to be cleaned is at the end of the tube and can only be viewed with a focused light down the tube. I used a good quality cleaner: CRC brand for MAFS. When it was clean and dry I reinstalled it and it's been working great. The car's worth spending the $ on a new sensor, but money's tight and I don't want to throw it away needlessly.
I hope this is helpful for you.
The backside of the twist-out bulb socket is deep inside the fender. On either side there is a lot of stuff in the way. Are you supposed to remove all that (driver's side includes the power distribution box, battery, air intake, etc.)?
Did Lexus intend the whole headlamp cluster to be removed, or the fender liner, tranny cooler, bumper/skid pan - in order to access the parking lamp socket? Is it even possible to reach it from underneath the fender?
Once I can get at it, I'm replacing it with something brighter and longer lasting.
I'm puzzled. Thanks,
Oxymoron, that...!
http://genet.gelighting.com/LightProducts/Dispatcher?REQUEST=COMMERCIALSPECPAGE&- PRODUCTCODE=12327&BreadCrumbValues=Automotive%5EAsh%20tray&SearchFieldCode=null
Compared to this:
http://www.superbrightleds.com/cgi-bin/store/index.cgi?action=DispPage&Page2Disp- =%2Fspecs%2FWLED-x6.htm
But the real question is how to get at them easily?
It seems to be worse when the vehicle is cold (and continues until heat soak) and/or at the same time a high-load switch is turned on (like the headlights or rear/mirror defrosters).
My guess is either a bad parking brake switch (where is it?) the fluid level sender in the master cylinder cap, or brake line pressure sender (again, where is it?).
Has anyone else come across this phenomenon?
How was it dealt with?
Is there another reason the BRAKE indicator is supposed to warn for (is there a hard-wired sensor for other conditions?
Any advice which switch, and it's location?
To avoid confusion, it's not the orange warning for a dead bulb or the ABS warning, which are fine. It's the red BRAKE indicator that normally comes on while starting or when the parking brake is depressed.
Early '99 RX300 2WD (3/1998)
Thanks for your help!
Who did it..?
Wrong dipstick..?
last august when i made the same trip.. 550 highway miles over 2 days.. adding almost 2 quarts.. only happens when making sustained highway trips !!! any ideas???
If you determine there is definately no sign of leakage, you will probably want some engine diagnosis like compression testing, etc. Good luck!
FWIW, Mine uses less than a refillable amount of oil during the oil change cycle, meaning I've never needed to add oil in between changes. It's still above the low mark on the dipstick when it's time to change it (3-5 or 6000 miles at the most), which seems to be normal to me. If your engine is burning oil quickly, it's not a good sign. You might see signs like blue smoke at start up. Running it when 2 quarts low might exacerbate the problem.
With the current production slow down due to Japan earthquake and nuclear problem, I am more thinking to buy a new 2012 RX350 near the end of year and hopefully the production problem resolved and plenty of inventory make the price negotiation easier.