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I can't decide if I want to live with it, fix it or get new? I went to a toyota dealer and sat in a new FJ. They are nice, but after reading about it...I pretty much have an awesome 4 wheeler now.
The problem is that in its given state, it is just a station car. I don't trust if for long highway rides, half expecting that the front drivetrain will drop out with prolonged use. Also with 9 mpg I have to fill it up all the time.
It is definitely cheaper to keep it or fix it, but something new sounds nice too. I am guessing at least $1500 to fix at an independent shop and $4000-4500 in trade?
If it is fixed...how sure can I be that they did a good job? I am itching to go wheelin' again and want to trust my rig.
Not much out there for offroading these days, nothing really grabs me other than an old cherokee perhaps.
-mike
Feel free to add your own to the growing list.
tidester, host
SUVs and Smart Shopper
The other morning I ran my Trooper, which sits a lot of the time now. The heater blower motor wouldn't come turn on. The fuses under the hood all appear fine. Could there be an in-line fuse? Or, is there another fuse box inside the truck?
If not, does anyone know how I would get started replacing the blower motor?
Thanks in advance.
Has anyone ever replaced this fitting?
My last three posts are good arguments for not letting a truck sit for too long. All those things that can go wrong, do go wrong!
Okay, four posts in a day is my limit. Thanks for listening.
You can also check the fuses with a continuity or ohm meter while you are at it to see if they are OK. Then check voltage at the blower motor or relay at least, to see if it is getting current but still not working. Good luck, one owners opinion.
It's a good idea, I'll give it a try. I did have to replace the battery in January, but I figured that was mostly because I left a light on inside the vehicle and ran it to nothing. It wouldn't take a charge from an external charger. It had very little voltage.
So, I think I need to take the blower assembly apart. I'm hoping it's not something to be got at from the inside of the truck, but rather that the sheet metal beneath the windshield wipers is the access point... I'm going to give it a shot, anyway.
If you know something different, put me on the right track, please. Thanks.
A mouse or chipmunk or something had build a nest in it. I have to try to figure out where it got all the insulation - maybe from underneath the hood...
However while everything I have read says this is equipped as a serious offroader...the visibility is terrible. One of the great features of the trooper offroad is that I feel like I can place any of the tires where they need to go and I have good over-hood sight lines. The FJ is seriously lacking in that department. It is also much smaller inside the cabin.
The TLC was great...a used one is a worthwhile option...most of the ones I have seen have about 50-60K on them...which means that the fuel pump, timing belt/chain or some mid-life major repair is around the corner.
I am going to take it to a local shop and scope out the TOD clutch repair before I make any other moves.
It is still a snowcat, I went out today and was driving around stuck people all over the place...8-10 inches of ice and slush.
-mike
I wonder if they could put a non-TOD transfer case in it? Probably not, but then you could have a serious off roader and a high MPG road car.
-mike
I have a question. A few months back my check engine light came on and my repair guy said it was for the EGR Valve. Yesterday, I replaced the valve myself, but the check engine light stayed on. I went to AutoZone and they cleared the code and it stayed off for the rest of the day. This morning however, it was back on again. Any ideas?
-mike
The older transfer case is an interesting idea...I am not sure all the electronics would work out.
At this point, I am going to get an estimate on fixing it first and take it from there.
I have no room for a 3rd car...if I did...I would probably park the trooper there, drop the case and try to fix it myself...while I drive a used honda/toyota econobox around. I have to think with the right time and tools I could take it apart or even just replace it myself. Ebay had a transfer case for sale for $199 a while back.
Anyway, I will keep you posted. If I do sell, I will have a bullbar and lights to sell (I assume it will sell easier if I take them off and put the stock bumper back on?)
http://www.arb.com.au/old-man-emu-4x4-suspension.php
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I purchased the soft version for my 1995 Trooper, used them on that for 100K of its 140K miles before it was rear ended and insurance total loss.
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I purchased the medium stiff version for my 2001 Trooper also at about 40K miles, now over 100K miles. Since the suspension is "progessive" the medium stiff version is still soft enough on road for me. The comparison between my soft OME equipt 1995 and my medium OME equipt 2001 is that the 2001 has a lighter more responsive or nimble feel, but it is not a huge difference. I have not noticed my OME suspension wearing out on either Trooper. If I had the ordering to do over, I would get the medium again. I hope that helps.
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I don't remember where I purchased the OME suspension, both times I bought four shocks and the two rear coil springs. They were around $60 an item times 6 items so somewhere close to $360. In my opinion the OME suspension makes the Trooper safer to drive because of the improved control.
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OME are awesome. They make tuned suspension kits for the older pre- 1992 Troopers also, and the upgrade would make a huge difference in the fun to drive factor.
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By the way, you will get around 1 to 1.5 inches of additional lift in the rear and should compensate by having the torsion bars up front cranked up a bit to get the Trooper level again for best MPG. I did not want the lift but nothing I can do about it. The 1996 and later Troopers are 1 inch lower on their frames than the 1992 to 1995 so that offsets the lift effect a little. The extra lift should give a little more wheel travel in the rear and the OME shocks can allow the extra travel safely. And with the extra lift your Trooper will look better with larger tires 265/70/16 or 265/75/16 or 275/70/16 will do the trick and not cost too much loss of fuel economy if you buy the lighter weight version of the tire. I have been told that 285/75/16 will fit with the OME suspension but those are going to cost you a lot of MPG because of the energy it will take to spin them up, so unless you are going off road the really big tires are not worthwhile for the looks.
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I think that if the rear frame is lifted until the wheels are not supporting weight, but still touching the ground it should unload the springs. Then unbolt and replace.
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Here's my mechanic send them an email:
http://www.creechimport.com/contact.html
When I plug it in, it doesn't work. I've tried to check the voltage at the leads, but I get very strange results. I can get 14 volts if I put the positive post on one of the leads and the ground elsewhere. I'm thinking that one of the leads is voltage, and the other is something to control motor speed?
Anyway, if anyone with a manual or wiring diagram could give me some tips on what to look for (is there a relay or something, and where, could there be an inline fuse, etc.), I'd be appreciative.
Thanks.
It's a 98 Isuzu Trooper with the Luxury package.
Thanks in advance for your help.
http://www.carspace.com/atfdmike/Albums/trooper/98wiring1.gif/page/photo.html#pi- c
http://www.carspace.com/atfdmike/Albums/trooper/98wiring2.gif/page/photo.html#pi- c
With the starter switch in START and the transmission control lever in PARK or NEUTRAL (automatic transmission), or with the clutch pedal depressed (manual transmission), voltage is applied to the starter relay and the relay energizes. When the starter switch is turned to ON with the engine running, the relay de-energizes and voltage is applied from the generator to the heater and A/C relay through the normally closed contacts of the starter relay. The heater and A/C relay energizes allowing voltage to be applied from FL-1 (MAIN) fusible link to the blower motor through fuse C-19.The blower switch then applies ground to the blower resistors for the desired blower motor speed. As the blower switch moves from OFF to position 4, resistors are bypassed. As the resistance to ground is decreased, blower speed increases. When the blower switch is in position 4, all of the resistors are bypassed and the blower motor runs at the highest speed
Starter cost about $125, and the labor matched that, so all in all it wasn't too bad.
One note; I believe you could leave the seat back attached to the bottom and still do the re-cover job. It might be a bit cumbersome, but it could be done this way.
Regards,
Tom
Thanks....
In some vehicles, the MAF sensor is a simple replacement. How bad is it in the Trooper?
He does charge for diagnosis, so I don't feel bad about doing this.
-mike
How can all of these things be happening and yet this yr/model got such high ratings? I am not very concerned about only getting 15-17 mpg since I don't do much driving but I don't want to have to worry about breaking down and having my engine go out on me...have you had this vehicle?
Oil it will burn 1 quart per 1000 miles.
Timing belt is either at 90k or 105k, about a $500 job give or take.
-mike
Remember that you are reading from a small sample of all the Trooper owners out there. And folks with problems tend to write about them. Folks who are generally satisfied rarely go to a forum to write about that.
I would check the oil once a week. When it gets low, add some. I think the range from the lower dot on the dipstick to the upper dot is one quart. If you go 500 miles without getting down halfway, your engine is pretty normal. If it's a TOD equipped 4WD, shift it into 4WD every week or so for a few miles.
You might want to bring the vehicle to a trusted mechanic and make sure that the transmission is full of fluid. A change of fluid couldn't hurt - just be sure that they use the appropriate fluid and fill the tranny all the way - there's no dipstick for you to read.
Otherwise, the problems you are reading about here are just about exactly the same problems you would read about anywhere about any vehicle. The Trooper is a pretty well build vehicle.
This thing has been parked for a while, and lots of things cropped up while it was parked. Bad idea to park it, I think.
MAFs are pricey, aren't they. He did clear the code. He said they were "stored" codes, and there were no current readings. It is not back on yet. I'm thinking about cleaning the MAF with MAF cleaner (there are sprays made just for this), making sure the plug contacts are good, then just seeing what happens. One of my other vehicle is a TDI, and there are long threads on club discussion boards about how often the problem with a MAF is really a problem with the electrical contacts...