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http://www.state.me.us/dps/Bhs/howdo.htm
http://auto.howstuffworks.com/airbag1.htm
http://www.asashop.org/autoinc/dec2001/collision.cfm
It could be that because it was a T-bone it wasn't equivalent to directly hitting a brick wall at 10-15mph. Then again the above articles aren't Isuzu specific and maybe our threshold speed is higher. I would however think the officers responding would be the best judge of when airbags typically deploy.
If several people report such problems it might be worth reporting it (to NHTSA?). While I never plan to use my airbags, it would be nice to know that they should work if needed and not go inactive due to real but unreported problems.
Perhaps you need to compromise the frame for the bags to go off? If you hit directly across the front and the frame didn't get bent?
Overall how did you and the vehicle fair? It is good to hear everyone was OK. Do you think the Trooper's crash ability was good or bad?
I'm not sore at all. My passenger only had slight bruise from seat belt. I'd like to think they didn't go off b/c they weren't needed. I think not having to replace the bags is the only thing that kept the insurance company from totaling it out.
Breakor..... can't say I ever "planned" on using them. But all in all, I'm very happy with the crash performance.... although I don't have much to compare it with - my first accident.
I plan to raise this subject with the service manager next time I'm at the dealer for service. I'll let everyone know if I learn anything interesteing.
Thanks.....David.
Damage to Trooper: front body (bumber, grill, etc), hood, FR fender & wheel flare, FL fender & wheel flare, radiator, radiator supports, all lights.
Frame was intact. No engine or suspension damage. Repair estimate was ~$7900.
Can we post pics to this board??
David.
http://photos.msn.com/viewing/album.aspx?m7A!X9U3q6bynoZEhFj0U7bQ- 0Hn*p2jIHzljynIc!*wzaZZshk!advb15PP5b*lQbEOyESf4MmSGuyjSKCgtqOJQf- O7r5QZF9OOHYjP9uwFexrQOBHTTdQ$$
Alternatively, the vehicle doesn't look all that bad. Maybe someone would buy it for something more than the $7.9k below the before the crash value. For example if the before wreck value was $17.9k then any offer over $10k might be worth considering. Selling now would eliminate the possibility of a bad repair and the future lower resale value inherent in a car that has been in a wreck. The other trick here would be to find a good replacement vehicle.
Wonder what are the thresholds for determining what is a totaled vehicle, and how much the insurance company gets from selling it to a junk yard.
NADA trade-in value on my truck is (was?) about 13K. If I'm not satisfied after the repair, I'll start shopping around and trade it ('02 Trooper maybe). I'll need something to pull the boat, etc. I'm single and this is my only vehicle. If the repair is good quality, I plan to keep it. It only has about 40K miles and will soon be paid off.
David.
-mike
Both front airbags deployed. I'm no airbag expert, but I'm glad they deployed and I would really think an airbag should deploy in a vehicle crash when the vehicle is moving at 30 mph or so. If the Trooper's airbags are designed not to deploy until 35mph, I consider that a potentially serious safety issue.
I'm not sure if the airbag did much to protect me or if the seat belt would have been sufficient. It happened so fast, I don't remember if my face hit the airbag or not. I had a stiff neck for a few days but that was it.
Our Trooper's value was pegged at $17,xxx by the insurance company. That was basically full retail value and I felt it was very generous. Go Allstate! The adjuster was calculating the damage and once he reached about $13k, he stopped since that was enough for his company to consider the vehicle a total loss. I asked the adjuster how they determined if a vehicle was 'totaled.' I seem to recall him saying something like if the damage represents 80% or more of the vehicle's value, it is usually considered totaled. Not sure how much that varies by insurance company.
I don't recall the exact nature of the damage, but the front-end was crumpled pretty good and some of the stuff in the front of the engine bay was damaged. Also some damage along the right side due to the Troop hitting the minivan in the lane next to me. I remember the bumper being pushed back so far that I could see a 4" or so square metal thing sticking out of the middle of the bumper. I'm not sure if there was any frame damage or not.
If one of my vehicles ever suffers significant crash damage, I will push hard for it to be totaled. Who wants a vehicle with $8k in cosmetic or mechanical repairs? I sure don't.
lemurzone
Looks like 10 to 15mph is the usual impact speed, but <most?> sensors seem to depend more on g forces than speed.
Wranglers have a passenger-side airbag cutoff switch, but Edmunds says that's for carrying a kid up front when you have the rear seat out, not for off-roading. Other links state that Chrysler did extensive testing to ensure that the airbag wouldn't deploy going over uneven terrain. If you set off the airbag off-roading, you must go a lot faster in the woods than I did with my old CJ.
I think it's curious that your bags didn't deploy, Dtlind - glad to hear you are doing fine.
Steve, Host
- Tom
-mike
..
I had six extra 5W30 MaxLife quarts left and I intended to put in Valvoline Synpower 5W30 to see if that helped. I was particularily discusted with the lifter ticking and MaxLife so I wastefully used the extra six quarts of MaxLife as an engine flush. I ran the new MaxLife oil about 15 minutes at all RPMs from idle to 6000 RPM to make sure the clean oil went into every place int he engine to remove dirt. Then I changed the oil again to Valvoline Synpower 5W30. The lifter ticking was barely audible for a few minutes. After a few trips around town for kid events there is no more ticking.
On Sunday, I got a solution: to cut the broken bolts off. After spending $60, I brought home a Craftsman grinder with a mental cut wheel. After spending10 minutes in my garage with 120+ decibels noise and firework-like flying spark, finally cut broken bolts off. What a weekend! L
The only thing makes me feel a little better is: I am still luck that I don’t have to cut the broken bolt off when I have a flat tire on the Interstate.
My suggestion: put some 10w30 on the bolts on you spare tire before the rust stuck the threads.
-mike
I've used it in all sorts of metal on metal situations and it never ceases to astonish me. Anyway, it's about the same price as the others. Give it a try before you twist hard.
-mike
1. No roof rack. The trooper is possibly the only SUV without the option of a load bearing roof rack. I have the ski rack and its only a 50 lbs rack. Solution: After market options.
2. Cassette player in S model. I had to dig through the garage to find an old Metallica tape. The trooper is now my only cassette stereo.
Solution: 8 track player:) or a CD MP3 player.
3. Back up lights are inadaquate. Solution: A couple of auxillary lights on the trailer hitch.
Like I said not much here. Anyone got any more.
-mike
After wading through the mods forum, I've found that the best 2 options start with the overlander mount.
The overlander expedition rack looks great, but I need it to accept Thule/Yakima components. Anyone got the components on the expedition rack? Will skis and snowboards fit?
The other option was to modify some Thule crossbars to mount to the overlander roof mount. If I remember correctly from my Subaru, the Thule bike rack needed to be a specific length from crossbar to crossbar. If you exceed the max length the bike rack won't fit. Anyone run into this?
And finally has anyone ever tried to get ahold of a factory roof rack (rails!) from Japan as shown on the Japanese Bighorns?
There are holes along the roof rails of the truck under the rubber weatherstripping (theory is that these holes are what are used to move the body into position during manufacturing). There are sets of 2 in the front, 2 in the middle and 2 in the back. I have not seen them but apparently they are small threaded bolt holes covered with masking tape. Someone on this forum posted attaching rack braces into these and then 3 Thule bars across. This would be one way to create a super strong permanent rack.
I prefer the options of the removable Thule system. I have no issues with it. I added a fairing which decreases noise, but also seems to drop the mileage about 1 MPG on the highway.
-mike
Tom (apexcutter)
Thanks!
I'd go for some Bilstiens or Monroe shocks if it's for on road. Offroad go for OME or Ranchos.
-mike
http://www.kyb.com/shocks/monomax.html
..
1.) Remove all 3 existing Thule crossbars
2.) Get two 78 inch Thule crossbars
3.) drill holes in one side of the 78 inch bars that allow it to be bolted down to 3 overlander brackets front to back direction on the Trooper.
4.) get some stainless spring back slot track 5/16 nuts and slide them down inside the 78 inch cross bars such that the springs hold them in place above each hole. These are available at www.mcmaster.com or any industrial supply.
5.) shorten two of my old Thule crossbars to fit under and inside the rear two Overlander brackets and drill the current one side holes all the way through for the rear two Overlander brackets.
6.) get some black 3M 5200 sealant
7.) get some fender washers
8.) get some 1.5 inch long stainless high strength bolts
9.) bolt through the shortenned under crossbars and into the nuts inside the 78 inch lenghtwise bars.
10.) get a Thule bar to OEM roof rack adapter set which is very strong and another set of top crossbars and clamp them on when needed.
..
The results: The shortenned Thule cross bars under the Overlander brackets make the roof rack very sturdy side to side even when no top cross bars are used, so I can use the 78 inch front to back bars as a handle when climbing up on the tire to get to stuff on the roof. The top cross vars can be any length over 50 inches and can be removed or positioned anywhere. The front set of Overlander brackets does not get an under Thule cross bar so no wind noise. The rear two under cross bars can support a basket without any additional top cross bars.
..
As a final touch, and I would like some opinions on this please, I am thinking about bolting stainless 4 inch stainless yacht cleats on the outer vertical surface of the Overlander brackets. These are available from www.WestMarine.com and would provide a very sturdy way to tie things down with regular rope. What do you think? Would cleats look bad up there? The cleats are nice and smooth and would make good handholds as well. Thank You, BoxTrooper
Tom
Imagine a terrorist driving an Envoy/Trailblazer? They'd be on their way to bomb something and wind up being late cause they had to stop and "reboot" the car!
-mike
PS: Not trying to trivialize Terrorism or anything, I know all too well how serious it is (works <5 blocks from WTC)
I think the Trailblazer/Envoy would make an great bomb.
Loose parts = More shrapnel.
P.S. On a serious note, Let's pray for a successful mission and the safe return of our troops in the gulf!!
I get what you are saying boxtrooper. I'd love to see photos of the finished product. Those Thule bars ain't cheap either!
Well I keep workin and saving, in the end I'll probably go with the overlander 50x60 rack. I would like a rack basket for baby strollers, baby jogger stroller, baby bike trailers and also light dirty gear. I hope I can fit the Yakima snowboard component to the overlander rack and I hope the snowboard will fit inside the overlander frame. A side mounted ski carrier might also work. I will carry the bikes from the trailer hitch.
I sure wish Troopers had a stock rack!
I will let you all know how it turns out soon.
Isuzu banks on China, Asia for revival (Autonews)
Steve, Host
As to the flat tire story.
I was doing about 75mph on I-70 west of Glenwood Springs,CO passing a RV when the left rear tire blew.
After I rolled to a stop, there was little left of the sidewall. The Trooper behaved beautifully, very stable.
-mike
Good Luck! and post pics.
When you did yours, did it have these metal bars that had to be attached? I have the "wide-body" one which I think came out in '01 for australia.
-mike
This is what I am talking about.
http://community.webshots.com/photo/64276179/64276270zqABhL
How did you wire in the turn signals? I haven't looked into that as of yet. I'm contemplating finding some slim fog lights to fit in there or connecting the turn signals to the parking lights.
-mike
Shows a case of Yeungling Brews! That is the key to a good install I take it!
-mike
Once out, you just need to find the positive and ground wires (for the blinker, not the parking lights). There are plastic clips which snap over the new lead and the ones to the turn signal, they cut into the wire and make the connection. Then a lot of electrical tape.
Strange thing regarding turn signals...when my headlights are off, the stock and ARB ones blink in unison. When the headlights are on, the stock and ARB ones alternate. You can probably wire it up so this doesn't happen, I may have not used the ground, but the lead for parking light? I didn't check with the lights on until after I crazy glued the piece back on and had it all wrapped up...I just left it. They burn out more than not, especially on the trail when I hit water.
-mike
Finally got a chance to check back in and saw I had missed a few pages, including some discussions about air bags back around the 7350s, seeming to stem from dtlind's accident...figured I would throw in my 2 cents with regards to the accident I had with my 2001 Trooper LTD (a little over 10,000 miles ago) which I reported back in post# 5653...just as a reminder, I ended up going head first into a guardrail about 50mph and the airbags did not deploy. Insurance spent about $12,000 in repairs on the Troop, and I passed 50,000 miles just 2 weeks ago (another 10k and it will be time to buy my 3rd set of tires for T3)...
Anyway, figured ya'll might want to add my no firing air bags to the list, and take a look at a photo of T3's front end prior to repair...
http://www.geocities.com/fredpollack/t3accident.html
Hope all is well,
-Cobbo
The way you describe the blinkers alternating sounds to me like you do have the ground wrong.
Does the parking light also flicker and vary in intensity when the blinkers and parking lights are both on?
I remember years ago slowly backing a Trooper into a concrete light pole pillar. The rear bumper caved in massively.