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IRRC, the small pump in the flush machines are low pressure to draw in new fluid feeding into the suction side & out discharge of the tranny cooler for the fluid exchange.
I was nervous about getting shorted on the payout, but was very pleased that Allstate went above and beyond on the value and I did not need to negotiate at all.
Mobil 1 synthetic did NOT improve (read: reduce) the consumption rate on our '98 Trooper. I switched to Mobil 1 around 50k miles, ran it for 15-20k miles, then switched back to dino. Perhaps the Mobil 1 was unable to reduce the consumption due to the dino oil being used in the first 50k miles and getting the engine all dirty?
Unfortunately, I did not have the opportunity to break in our Trooper myself. It was a corporate vehicle and had 7k miles when we bought it. Then again, opinions seem to be divided on which is a better break-in approach - drive vehicle hard, or drive vehicle soft - so it may not have mattered.
Once the cost of the new shocks is behind us, I may start throwing a little money at oil consumption remedies (EGR valve cleaning, PCV replacement, Auto-RX treatment, etc.).
Question: Does anyone have this occur??? When accelarting the Trooper, between 40mph and 50 mph you get a noticeable vibration from the rear...similar to a hesitation. The tires are balanced. Could this be an axle indexing problem?
I too have read numerous posts about the dangers of changing fluids on a severly neglected tranny.
I don't think a flush is a bad idea, however the problems listed above are concerning and interesting? I wonder if it has to do with performing a flush on a trans that hasn't had regular maintenance until high mileage?
There is also the chance that the slippage was caused by something else and/or really didn't require a replacement/rebuild but that the dealer gave you the shaft? I am suspect of Isuzu support and service these days.
http://www.oilchangeguys.com/BilsteinATFMachineAdSheetRevised.pdf
The problem seems to be that accumulated junk can be loosened and either plug up the filter or some vital tranny passage. Many sites claim that you should ALWAYS pull the filter when replacing fluid in a neglected tranny. That could be your father's argument as to what the dealer did wrong. Especially when he apparently asked for a new filter in the first place.
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$18000 plus around $500 tax tags etc..Gets:
gray Trooper, nearly no scratches, no underbody rust, clean CarFax record, real smooth engine, TOD, one scuff under the rear left bumper corner and the hard tire cover is badly scratched and one of the five tires is not a match to the remaining original 684's.. They were asking $21000 I offered $18000 they said OK, is this a good deal?
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Should I be worried about this having been a rental vehicle? Anything special to look for because it was a rental?
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I test drove another 2002 just before this one at a different dealer and it needed shocks and was very scratchy had 3 tires of one type and 2 tires of another type, twice as many miles and they were asking more ($19000) for it.
I think a rental could be pot-luck. Poor maintenance, but at 19K miles it shouldn't be too out of spec. Check 4wd operation...either it was abused...or never used at all. Both of which could cause a problem.
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Meanwhile Kelly Blue Bood http://www.kbb.com says the same 2002 Trooper S is worth $19400. So I'll take the average of the two prices $17897, and consider the $17250 price decent enough to go ahead.
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Now to get the wife along for the ride on this one. Where to come up with $12000 to add to the insurance totaler's payoff to make up the $17250? I hope to own this one by lunch time 6/26/03.
Take the book numbers (even ours) with the usual grain of salt. What is the "Kelley Blue Book" Price?
Wouldn't hurt to ask the dealers over in Real-World Trade-In Values for their two cents either.
Good luck with lunch tomorrow!
Steve, Host
I would like to know more about what caused the slipping in the example yesterday? Blown gasket? Low fluid? Worn gears, etc. Worn gears doesn't happen overnight. A gasket blowing due to pressurizing the trans is a possible, but then there should be some warning signs (A/T Temp light, fluid on the driveway?).
http://story.news.yahoo.com/news?tmpl=story2&u=/030626/161/4i- - - c1w.html&e=14
They quoted me $95.00 for ATF exchange.
http://www.vioc.com/serv_suv.asp
Whoever is considering flushing, with all the research I've been doing, DO NOT FLUSH!! Drain and fill but never flush, especially higher mileage vehicles.
Most of the information seemed positive. I also read that flushing doesn't clean out the pan or filter...and that it is recommended at some point to drop the pan to clean it and change the filter. Perhaps higher mileage vehicles are more prone to having sludge like stuff that could get dislodged during a flush and eventually cause a problem? So perhaps the required maintenace at around 75K is not only to flush but drop the pan and clean it and filter as well?
I had this done at 30K, 28K ago, no problems. will do it again soon at 60K.
The problem is that your AT is essentially a ton of passageways and nooks and crannies, along with your torque converter which holds 2-3quarts itself. So by doing a drain and fill you are only getting the stuff in the pan out.
I did my flush at 50K and will do it again at 70K for sure.
-mike
Thanks
To the guy with the fluctuating voltmeter, I recommend that you go down to any auto parts store and have them put a battery load tester on the battery. You can rule out the battery for no cost in this manner. If the battery is bad, replace it and then observe the meter again.
Namely, I use the AT to pump the old fluid out and a hand pump to pump the new fluid back in. I pump in through the return line and at the end pull the fill plug (a downwards facing plug on the bottom of the AT) on a running engine to set the level. I get out about 10qts of used fluid before the fluid turns to a new cherry red. I usually flush through an 11th qt just to be sure. This leaves me the 12th qt. of my 3 gallon purchase. I use this last qt. to routinely swap out used power steering fluid.
FWIW I do my AT fluid changes about every 2-1/2yrs./25k miles. At this point the fluid still looks quite good but it is noticeably darker. No doubt I could much go longer but for the price of 3gallons of ATF and my time I consider this very cheap AT insurance.
-mike
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Are the front automatic locking hubs on this non-TOD Trooper identical to my 1995?
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This will be my third Trooper and finally I will have a limited slip differential.
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My 1995 Trooper has the power folding mirrors, the 2001 S has heated, but not folding mirrors, is the wiring already in there and the folding mechanism the same from 1995 to 2002 so I can swap that functionality before the old Trooper goes to salvage yard?
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I have Dueler Revo AT tires with around 10K miles on the 1995 Trooper, and the 2001 has the default new Trooper tires with 27K miles, is it worth swapping those as well? I think yes.
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I am planning on buyng the 1995 Trooper back from the insurance tataling process and selling it myself to a salvage yard that I have already contacted and they are interested in it.
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I am planning on not swapping the OME suspension parts, since they are relatively inexpensive I'll get new OME parts some time.
There is a plate on the firewall in the engine compartment, verify that it has a "G80" listed on it. This is the LSD code I believe.
I think springs and tires are a good idea to swap. If you like the OME springs.
I don't think the mirrors would work...but if they do I would like to try to wire my 1999 S ones up at some point.
Oh yeah...consider new shocks...the stock ones in the most recent years seem to be very soft and spongy...in my opinion.
-mike
I have a 1999 Trooper with Luxury/Performance package and if something like what happened to you happened to me, I would like to keep my Trooper for parts.
BTW, I think I would prefer a 5-speed over the automatic -- how smoothly does the clutch and shifter work?
Are the Revos quiet enough on the open highway? Are the Forteras sticky enough for fairly severe winter weather?
Any comments appreciated.
Reading past posts was wondering if any other experiences with KYB Mono Max shocks. They are avail at about $50 apiece from Tirerack which is where I'm getting the tires. Anyone believe Monroe Reflexes clearly superior?...or vice versa? Some mention of Bilsteins but no specific models.
Thanks
One note though, 1/4" washers did not fit, I had to get 5/16".
My friend who owns the Precision Tune was the first victim of his own T-Tech flush machine. After getting the machine in, he had his guys flush his Maxima (90k miles). His tranny lasted about a week before dying. $2800 dollars later, he was back on the road. I made the same mistake with a 96 Mazda 626 (84k miles). Seeing that black fluid come out and the pink fluid go in made me think I was adding life to the transmission. It died less than a week after the flush. Fortunately, I had an extended warranty and only had to pay $50 of a $2900 bill. If you get on the program early, (30k 60k 90k 120k), it seems like a good thing to do, but don't try it on a high mileage tranny with no prior flush. The old fluid has had no working detergent or cleaners in it for a long time. The new fluid is full of it and and begins to slowly clean and break loose all of that crud that has built up over time. That would explain why it takes a week or so for it to fail.
The filter change with a few quarts of new fluid doesn't seem to shock a high mileage tranny like the flush does, but like everything else in life, do so at your own risk ;-)
john
The 1995 in 5th gear at 70 MPH, 3100 RPM, 19 MPG.
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The seller told me they normally get 21 MPG on highway. So far for me the fuel gage covering the half tank mark after about 230 miles.
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I was also told that there were other offers made to buy my Trooper and the seller kept his word even turned down more money from other buyers to sell it to me. I am very thankful for that.
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The 2001 has a far quieter and smoother engine, more responsive and a lot more low end torque also.
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The manual transmission has a crisper feel to shifting, but also the clutch travel is a little longer but the actual engagement happens in less of the clutch pedal travel towards the top. Shifting somehow feels more precise, not easier or harder just significantly different than a 1995.
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So far I have only driven it home, and there it waits until proper registration documents are complete.
I previously had the Pirelli Scorpions. They were much noisier than the Revos. I never was particularly thrilled with them, and found the snow/ice traction to be marginal, although others on this board have liked them. I haven't had a chance to try the Revos in the snow, yet. They do seem to work very well in the rain.
I'm running 265/75's in a standard load rating. They are not only quiet, but run exceedingly smooth. No shimmy, no shake, nothing. They actually seem to be round. What a concept in a truck tire.
I always had probelms with the Scorpions. They just never were really smooth -always had a little vibration here and there. I had 265/75's in a "C" load rating. When I got the Revos I was stunned by the difference. Going from a "C" load rating to a Standard Load rating may have helped the ride a little - I don't know.
After 7000 miles, I would have to say that I would recommend no other tire than the Revo.