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Just changed the antifreeze myself - finding that drain valve was a trick. Used my wifes meat juice sucker upper (careful here) to get the fluid out of the cooling resevoir. I may redo it since I used water from the house - seems like you should use distilled water from what I have read.
-mike
I had an 86 Montero with a similar problem in the drivers seat - drove me nuts. I found the bolts that secured the front of the track to the floor, removed them, bought a set that was about 1" longer (being sure to stay with high quality bolts), spacered the front up with lots of washers, and reassembled (I loosened the bolts at the back of the seat track, too, then socked them all up.
It worked great.
The only reason it might not work as well on a Trooper is that the seat back doesn't angle up as far as the Monty did. Check that, first.
I am going to take the panel off this afternoon and look for something loose. Has anyone dealt with the insides of the Trooper doors or had a similar problem?
What concerns me is working around the inside plastic seal. I don't want to break the plastic seal and not be able to get it to seal again? Any suggestions?
David
On another note, I just finished moving last week. The Trooper's cargo capacity always amazes me. Our moving "fleet" consisted of a Grand Cherokee, a Volvo S60 and the Trooper. The Trooper could match the Jeep and the Volvo combined in capacity.
I would like to try to make Uwharrie this year, what are the dates?
We are currently over at Planet Isuzoo Planning it. So far looks like I'll be making Clam Sauce and Italian Sausage on Friday night! Sat night someone is going to roast a Pig!!!!
-mike
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I guess the Italian sausage can be thought of as an "inside out pig pickin".
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I will make a big effort to come out for this one. Do I need to bring a feast?
It truely is fun, when you get guys from the deep south sitting around a campfire with guys from NY/NJ it becomes an animated evening!
-mike
As for getting behind the plastic, prior to doing the work my plan was to use some good packing type tape if the plastic tore. As it turned out the adhesive on the plastic let loose and went back on with no problem.
Also, the circuit was pre-wired from the front end, but on the switch side, the switch wasn't connected to any wires. Is the wire taped somewhere? And do I have to remove anything to find it and connect it?
Thanks
Sam
I would sell my '99 3.5 and purchase '01 3.0TD which my buddy offers. Would you tell me your experience if you use the diesel?
Thanks in advance.
I ended up not removing the plastic because I couldn't find anything. After I put the panel back on...the rattle was gone. So for now I am not going to worry about it. That is a good idea about using some kind of tape to repair any tears. The glue seemed soft enough, so if I need to dig further (I'm sure its not gone for good) I will try removing the plastic and rooting around in there.
It starts to tick after it warms up. When you are idling it will stop ticking then start then stop and so on. The closest dealer is 400 miles away and I am not comfortable driving it that far at highway speed. The oil is changed regularly (just recently). The muffler needs to be replaced as it is rusted out badly.
Has anybody else had ticking from their 3.2L DOHC.
#8128 sdc2 you mentioned about a ticking noise, any suggestions.
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Here's what I would do if I bought your ticking 94 Trooper and wanted to get rid of the tick for myslef:
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I would use one brand of oil, Mobil1, RedLine, or Valvoline. I grew up with Valvoline and it costs half as much as RedLine so that is my favorite. If you have a favorite, use it, just that I think changing oil brands can cause extra reactions in the oil that I want to eliminate the effect of.
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I use a larger filter Purolator Pure One PL24458 is an inch taller than standard and that translated to 50% more filter paper in my estimaton. The Pure One is a top line oil filter to start with and it has a lot of surface area to hold the dirty particles.
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I would change the oil every 500 miles until the ticking stops. Then if the ticking returns change the oil again. Eventually, I almost always was able to get back up to 3000 miles between changes.
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I towed a heavy trailer, I would change the oil before each significant over 150 miles towing event. Towing makes the oil get dirty quicker, so I make sure to start clean.
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To make all this possible I adjust my attitude by reminding myself that except for the ticking the Trooper is awsome and that lots and lots of oil changes are still way less expensive than a lifter rebuild ($3200 installed). Also, a by product of the frequent oil changes is that the engine will last a very long time.
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I hope that helps.
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I have used the Bilstien Oil Flush where they hook up a machine where the oil filter goes and run the engine until the oil is clean, but since my oil was already clean, it did not do much.
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Be patient, getting rid of the tick can take new oil up to 300 miles in my experience, then the ticking may return earlier than 3000 miles the first time it goes away, keep at it.
Flin4, please let us know here if it helps.
I had the vehicle in the garage to see if they could pin point the problem. They listened with a stethoscope and couldn't come up with any distinctive area the noise was coming from.
This was not the dealership as there was none in the small town. Seeing as nobody could tell me with any certainty what it was I decided to just go for it, and drove the car 500 miles back to the city. That way if I made it I could take it to the Isuzu dealership and maybe they could determine what it was. Which is going to be difficult as I already told them they should be wearing masks because they're a bunch of crooks.
Anyway I made it back, the engine ran fine except it sounds just like when we used to clip a piece of cardboard on the spokes of our bike with a clothespin.
Just like Sdc2 said it doesn't seem to hurt the engine.
Boxtrooper - I think I will try your idea. I used to use synthetic oil, but I was changing my oil every 3,000 miles and it was gettin quite expensive. On the other hand I never had any ticking noise when I used the synthetic - hmm.
I am using High Mileage oil, as the vehicle has 265,000 miles on it.
So I'll go back to it and try that filter. Hopefully I can stop it without having to go to those unmasked bandits.
Thanks again guys for the help.
flin4
If I had an engine that gave me 265K I wouldn't care if it ticked, clicked or occasionally played the theme from "I Love Lucy"!! How far do you expect this thing to go? Good Luck, I hope you make to 300K. You might want a change of pace by then!
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Then my 1995 Trooper was rear ended by a large Volvo which bent the volvo front end and roof like a tree fel on it and only left a small bow in one rear fender on the 1995 Trooper, but it set off the Trooper's air bags which is a $6000 event so that my 1995 was totalled.
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Now I have a 2001 Trooper with 32K miles and it is using Valvoline Synpower even though it is not lifter tick prone. The previous owner used synthetic oil since the first 3000 mile change, but only changed it every 5000 miles.
JP
http://www.4x4mountainsport.com/
http://www.arctictrucks.is/ (doesn't look like they do Troopers from the web page, but they had some nice looking rigs on the road)
On another note, the Nissan Patrol is a sweet vehicle and I wish they would have brought it state side. The Terrano II didn't do it for me though. It looked like a mini-van with a one inch lift. I thought it looked better in the pictures than in person :-(
On a long uphill straight managed to get to 103mph with the 5000lbs, AC and all!
The Air-lift Airbags help out nicely as well.
-mike
In general the Trooper is a snow cat, from my experience, so with almost any tire you shouldn't have problems in deep snow, it is the slippery stuff that is probably the most important.
I went with Bridgestone Dueler A/Ts 265/70s on my Trooper for replacement, they are good also, I like the Cross Terrains for primarily onroad driving.
When looking at tires a couple years back, I could not justify the high price of the Michelin Cross-Terrains. Our set of 4 LTXs was about $450 installed, including lifetime rotation and balancing from Discount Tire. That's a pretty good price for some pretty good tires.
-mike
For the Rancho shocks, if you don't plan to change the damping setting which built on RS7000, than RS5000 is good. If you have some extra cash, you can get the RXS which is sort of designed for automatically changing the damping over big bumps.
I have been thinking about trying to upgrade my spark plugs to get to 14-15 around town. In general my mileage has always been poor.
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Around town the MPG did not change much because I drove it more agressively taking avantage of the much smoother power across a wider range of RPMs. particularily fun was driving just after unhooking the trailer, since with the trailer I was used to manual shifting at high RPMs, when shifting at those high RPMs without a trailer my 1995 Trooper felt kinda sporty.
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Directhits requires non-resitor spark plugs and low resistance wires for best results. I bought the kit.
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Directhits will have a kit for my 2001 coil over plug 3.5L engine sometime in 2004.
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http://www.directhits.com
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send your questions to Dr.Spark on the web page.
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Other things critical for Trooper performance are intake and exhaust breathing. So use a K&N drop in filter
especially on newer direct-fire engines like the 3.5l isuzu.
-mike
John