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look'n to purchase new ml350. can anyone give me some feedback regarding air suspension and does it really boost it's handling to bmw x5 level. (rumored) furthermore, i heard air suspension is more costly to repair as opposed to conventional shocks, true or blatant lie?????? thanks for your time.
I can't comment on maintenance costs, sorry.
thanks!
I have a 98 ML320 with 83k. In the past week this problem has happened 2x.After a short drive and then letting it sit. It starts fine and when starting to accelerate at a slow speed it just dies!!!! It will still turn over (fast)..battery is good but will not start for 10mins or so(just cranks) and then it will start again!!!! I checked all my fuses and they seem ok..Never had this happen before, could it be something on its way out ie: fuel pump or something electrical? Can someone point me in a direction before I bring it to a repair shop....Thanks Kevin
Good Luck
You also want to be sure to you are doing the regular fuel filter replacement at 60K intervals. If you haven't had the fuel pump filter upgrade, you'll either have to find an old-style filter sitting around, or upgrade to the new one - there's a TSB out on this.
Good luck,
- Mark
IMHO, even if your area isn't providing great discounts at model introduction, you'll likely get it if you wait several months into the first model year. Those dealerships are trying to max out their profit and are hoping the allure of a brand new model will command MSRP pricing.
But supply won't be an issue with the new SUV, and its pricing is quite high if you stack on a decent amount of options. There is a ton of competition out there, as well as the fact that some MB dealers are already offering above-invoice pricing on introduction.
I predict that MB will be forced to issue incentives on this vehicle sometime in its second year, leading to below-invoice pricing.
BTW, a lot of initial reports (including the June 2005 Car & Driver review) highly recommend purchasing the optional air suspension for about $2k. C&D absolutely hated the stock suspension, saying it "alarmingly" had a lot of roll in corners and a very uncomfortable ride on poor roads. They said the air suspension corrects most of these issues.
Lexus and Mercedes-Benz Launch Credit Cards (Inside Line)
Steve, Host
My '99 ML320 engine failed at 77K miles, so I will not be surprised if your engine needs to be rebuild. There is a class action settlement regarding ML320 1999-2001 according to whick MB should cover this issue. Please feel free to contact me offlist if you need details.
:sick:
M
I now have almost 41,000 miles on the truck.
1) gas pedal has become "sticky" again.
2) a chirping noise comes from the steering column/dash area when I turn the key. Happens only on cool mornings.... it's not the belt reminder or key buzzer. They ordered a part for that.
3) The windshield washer fluid has started to leak out.
Because I am about 2,300 miles from my "B" service, they are going to perform that service.
They also informed me that I need new brakes front and back. They also said that I must have new rotors installed all of the way around and that my rotors cannot be "machined". The service guy told me that ML's usually need to be replaced at every brake job. The total cost of the brake job.... $1,100.
I told the service guy (not the one I had before, this is a new guy) not to do the brakes because at 18,000 miles, they told me my back brakes were going out so "like an idiot" I said OK ($250), well, I now have 23,000 miles on the back brakes and they are not out yet, but close. I told the service guy that I think they replaced the back brakes too soon.
When he was looking up my records, he said that the previous service guy told me that I needed new brakes for the front at 26,000 miles. I told him that I told the previous guy NOT to do it. So, I am needing them now but the "brake pad warning light" has not come on. I told him what is the light for if we need to change pads before the light comes on?
I also asked him why did they tell me that I needed new front brakes at 26,000 miles if I'm at 41,000 and I'm still on the same brakes. He asked me if I had them changed somewhere else, I said no. He couldn't believe I had the same brakes and said most people change them at 20,000 miles.
I called the service shop where I take my antique car (they work on all types/makes/models/years) and to give me a price on replacing the brakes on the ML. They are at $1,080 for the same job. But, the indepentent shop guy says that ML rotors can be turned but he would let me know if I have enough allowance for it to be done.
I have had good luck with this shop in the past. Even though they aren't much cheaper than my Mercedes dealer, I am NOT going to reward my dealer for trying to PUSH expensive service jobs on me. I'm taking it to the private shop next week.
(stepping off my soap box).... I feel better now. Mark
Mercedes revamps M-Class for 2006 (Mercury News - sorry, registration required to read the article).
Steve, Host
Fool me once, shame on you ... fool me twice, shame on me.
After all the hype about MB better managing its U.S. suppliers to improve quality, there's a recall on a part that has been the subject of recalls on the previous model?
So if it fails, you lose power steering capability and have to struggle to get the vehicle safely off the road, and then wait for roadside assistance to come out and replace it?
At least 2006 owners don't have to go back to the dealership for this. And realistically the clamp wouldn't fail for some time, as experienced by the previous model owners who had this problem.
A new ~$55k vehicle is felled by a $2 part that's been known to have problems before.
The humiliation continues ...
I test drove the new ML 500 but can not figure out what is so great vs. CayS while the pricing certainly is. I have the fortune of owning the Cay S as well as ML 500 (MY 2003) and do know the pros & cons of old ML / new ML & Cayenne.
New ML has not given me any reason to get out of 163 and that is mostly because I do not like the looks. New ML is definitely better drive feel vs. old.. that's all to it's credit but price is way too steep now.
Don't worry about the discussions / arguments. If you are enjoying what you bought, then that's all that matters. I wish you years of driving pleasure and safe driving.
I need the New Engaland CD for 2005. Is anyone willing to share ?
Thanks,
Bon Bob
I have a 2000 ML320 and experienced some of the same problems.
1.) The vehicle was a preowned "certified" by M-B. Well, when I took it for an independent assessment, I went to a local mechanic who races BWMs. He noted that the accelerator was "sticky." Took it to Mercedes, they found that two parts were bad. So much for "certified."
2.) Full engine rebuild at 47,000 miles. High oil consumption.
3.) Your driving habits, tires, terrain, all play a part in brake wear. However, when I was having the dealer do the service, I was pinged on brakes every 15-20K miles. And when I reminded them that the front ones were just changed 3K miles ago, they said, "oh, right...the back ones are bad now." So once again, I went to my local mechanic. Brakes were ok. When he did replace them, he highly recommended replacing the rotors because they are made from a soft compound. Don't risk your life over a few dollars! I use Brembos now. Cheaper cost then MB, and works great. Oh, and he assesses the amount of wear, so I will know when to replace them. Yes, I did the $900 +/- dealer brakes once a year. Now my mechanic does them for less then half that price, and monitors them.
Glad to hear you found a private shop that can service your car. Oh- I got almost 50K out of my last front brakes and rotors. Like I said, there are a lot of factors to consider when it comes to brake life.
Now if I didn't have to replace the gas cap every three years, I would be happy!
I replaced my front pads 20K miles ago and didn't even turn the rotors, let alone replace them. They were smooth, mic'd within tolerances, and the new pads worked fine with them. I will not machine the MB rotors. If they look good and mic within tolerances, I'll just replace pads at $70 per axle. If not, I'll replace rotors too at $90 per axle. Even with replacing everything front/rear, the total cost of parts is about $320. The dealer charges for these brake jobs are just out of line.
- Mark
Full Test: 2006 Mercedes-Benz ML350 (Inside Line)
Steve, Host
The new model is quite pricey when loaded with options, and MB seems to have a good supply.
I'm sure MB will claim the vehicle is selling well. Manufacturers always compare sales numbers to the previous year, and naturally a new model will sell better than the end-of-life previous model.
If you're in the market, time to drive a very hard bargain.
- Mark
Is this power rear gate door fully automatic in 'opening' AND 'closing' the cargo door?
Is this good price? Can somebody give me the more feedback about the vehicle. Is there any recalls? Thanks in Advance.
http://autos.yahoo.com/newcars/mercedesbenz_mclass_ml350_2006/16830/style_overview.html;_y- lt=ArbB9tKwwhg9vX8uoBs3EEEbfr8F
Invoice Price:$36,968
Navigation System $1,240
Trim Package $2,200
Thanks, I am going to buy my 2006 ML350 soon
Jimmy Liu
That is such a great price! I asked about the recall (scroll up a bit, you'll see it), they've fixed that. Where are you located at? I wish I had seen your email before I purchased mine at $500 over invoice ($45,830 MSRP; $43,273 invoice). So far, I LOVE my ML.
I forgot to ask about the invoice price. I will next time when I speak to the salesman.
White/ash: $40,470 (includes the $720 destination)
318 trim: $2,200
324 Sunroof: $1,390
_________________________
Total: $44, 060
Discount: $1,065
_________________________
Offered price: $42,995
Is this a good price????????
Steve, Host
M
Thanks
Niko
If you keep it, it would probably make sense to find a good independent shop and have them go through the car and attend to the defered maintenance items, particularly stuff like belts, hoses, and coolant/brake fluid changes. They can also do a compression check and see if the sluggishness you feel is a more serious engine problem.
I wouldn't have high expecations that there is any maintenance you can do which will make the car drive like new again. If you're tired of the car, now is probably the best time to get a new one.
- Mark