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I am thinking it could be a fuse. I can't find my manual; can anyone tell me what fuse number I should be checking? :confuse:
Thanks,
Bill
The only way I can think of to guarantee it doesn't work would be to disconnect the remote opening feature on your trunk and go back to using the key. Otherwise, just make sure your battery is good (to avoid running it down from having the trunk light on all day) and that nothing is left in the car that you can't live without....
Now that I think more about it, maybe it would be worth asking the dealer about reprogramming the remote frequencies? They'll probably soak you for $50 to a $100 dollars, but it might be worth it to keep the remote trunk lid functionality, though it might not guarantee that the problem is solved. Wouldn't hurt to ask them, though.
Thanks, Chas.
Here is what I have done so far. When i disconnect the battery and let it sit for a while the car's engine will start. The radiator fan will not come on and the gas pump will energized for about 20 sec and stops. The car runs fine like I said before, but then stalls...I did a complete tune up, change the spark plugs, wires, distributor and rotor. Changed the oil and filter. Checked for leaks on hoses and all seems to be fine. I checked the EEC for error codes, I do not get any. :confuse: I also tried a control module but no change. :mad: Any suggestions or ideas to help me with my commuter car is appreciated
Stop throwing parts at it. If the Check Engine light has been on there should be diagnostic trouble codes stored in the engine control computer. Get the codes retrieved (AutoZone will do it no charge) and post the codes.
I took the car to a mechanic today, and he called to tell me that my power steering fluid looked black, and that he recommended a flush to take care of the problem. I had the flush done, and when I went to pick up the car, when I made a right hand turn out of the shopping center, I noticed that when I accelerated the engine RPMs went up to 6K, the check engine light came on, and the speedometer stopped working (went down to zero). After driving for awhile, the problem seemed to take care of itself. Then, I made another sharp turn, and the speedometer stopped, and the check engine light came on and stayed on. I took it back to the mechanic (because it was NOT doing this before I took it in), and he told me that he hooked it up to the computer and it said that there was a problem with the speed sensor. He said the weather could have caused it. (Personally, I think this is crap because after he took it back and messed with it for a little while, it ran just fine).
So, I left the shop again and everything was good. I went to make another sharp turn into a parking lot, and the noise from the engine (groaning/grinding) started again. I opened the hood, and it seemed to be coming from the area where the serpentine belt is. I just had this replaced 2 months ago, and the belt appears to be in good condition. When I turn the wheel with the engine on, it almost seems like something is rubbing one of the belts when I turn the wheel - when I was looking at the engine when I turn the wheel - it seems to vibrate a lot when the wheel is turned and it's making the groaning noise.
So... It's not the power steering fluid. What else could it be? I have put A LOT of money into this car in the past few months, and I don't need another expensive problem.
I think you are going to have to get it into a shop.
Since when did Taurus have day time running lamps? Is yours a Canadian version?
Ok... First the power steering started to fail... It had a leak, and I was putting a few containers of fluid in a week. so it was a big leak. It got to the point that fluid was just pouring out a couple minutes after I put it in. I took it to the shop and they told me that The seal in the Rack and Pinion was bad. So my dad and brother... who work on their cars constantly... changed it for me... Ever since then, the ABS light has been on... and the power steering is just "so-so."
During the time that the power steering was leaking... I had a coolant leak start... The coolant looked almost rusted... not to mention it was overheating occassionally... So... I figured out that it was a leak in the coolant resevoir. I changed that, and while I was at it, I changed the thermostat. I put new coolant in it... But It still overheats. Almost every day now. It no longer has a leak, and I don't know what could be the problem.
Oh yah... I forgot to mention that the heater blows air like the air conditioner would...
So in summary... 1. The power steering still doesn't fully operate after changing the rack and pinion... 2. since changing the rack the ABS light is on constantly
3. The car is overheating about everyday with no leak and a new thermostat
and 4. the heater blows freezing cold air.
CAN ANYONE PLEASE GIVE ME SOME ADVICE!!! :lemon:
Thanks
As far as overheating goes, you obviously have some cooling system problem somewhere. The fact your heater doesn't work must mean you are not even getting warm coolant circulating into your heater core. Is the whole cooling system-radiator and heater core plugged? Maybe your water pump is not working?
Sounds to me like you bought this car used and it was not properly serviced and maintained by the previous owner(s)
The dealer replaced the oil pan gasket last week but it still leaks. The oil is
leaking from a hole located between the oil pan and the transmission pan, on
the bottom of the bellhousing area. Could it be a leaking rear main seal?
9,000 miles seems premature for the main seal to fail.
The source of leaks are not impossible to find.
Nothing has failed in this regard on mine to date, however, now at 50K miles.
I'm wondering is the TPS is intermittently misbehaving. I'm going to try wiping the ECM memory by pulling the fuse tonight.
I hope you aren't filling your radiator with just water. You should be filling it with at least a 50-50 mix of anitfreeze and water.
I took it to the mechanic. He said bad sylanoid. But I have the same question...would that make it shift hard? A mechanic told me to change the tranny fluid...make sure it has Mercon 5, I did that but still shifts hard/jerks. I am SO tired of the jerking, and don't want to spend the $400 to fix, if the sylanoid isn't the problem. Also, I drove it 5 hours away (10 round trip) and it was fine...fyi for your 2 hour trip.
Any ideas would help! :sick:
Thanks!
I had my Taurus 96 overheating. It was quite weird: it was overheating in traffic jams and never on a highway or while idling.
Here are the solutions for you:
0) you got leaks and coolant leaks out - fix it for ~200$ or do-it-yourself for free. Or just add coolant each week.
1) termostat may not work properly (if you see that after going up the temperature goes down - you termo is Ok - this is the way it regulates system)
2) you don't have enough air (if you overheat in traffic jams) this is not necesseraly the reason - it may be that you cooler is not working and fan isn't strong enough to cool everything.
ANyway - if you think it is fan - UNPLUG the temperature sensor for the fan. That is - there are two sensors attached to the cooling system - one measuring the temperature and the other one is sending a signal to the fan to turn on or off. (check the owner's manual). Now - if you unplug the one that sends signal to fan - the fan will be ON all the time. It will not damage you car, nothing bad - just the fan will be running all the time.
3a) the last and the worst case scenario - you got something else.
Try to listen to your engine with open hood. If you hear weird noises from the side of the serpentile belt - you may have problems with one of the pulleys. For example the bearring in the idle pulley is bad and it prevents the proper rotation of the belt --> thus it is not rotating the water pump properly and there is not enough circulation. Solution is to change the pulley (20$ for the part), installation ~1 hr (also change the belt as you have to take it off anyway ~15$ for the part)
3b) water pump - same thing - change the pump (part 20$ on ebay). installation ~2hr (you can also change the belt)
3c) WORST case scenario - you got cooling system clogged - go to mechanic and ask him to check pressure and try to flush it.
I did ALL of these myself and it is damn easy - write me for descriptions. You don't have to spend 500-600 to fix it - it is all within 1-2 hr of work of any person capable of drilling a hole :-)
One mechanic said it was a blown gasket. I hope not. We are serioulsy flushing the radiator, which is still showing a lot of rust. Just wondering what others have experienced with a bubbling Taurus. Tips sugguested?
The car bubbles easily and it appears the engine is hot. Yet the temp. guage does not read hot. We have put in three thermostats this week, so don' tthink that's the problem.
I'm in the the flushing stage for a few more days. Next step would be new radiator, and then blown gasket.
I've heard of freeze plugs, a bypass kit, heater core hoses, etc.
-Bob
My car is nor reading 'hot' either, but when you shut it down and turn on again - the reading goes up rapidly to the top. The reason is that your engine is not cooled properly or you temperature sensor is broken. You can find this sensor and replace it easily, it is on the right side of the engine, ~2 inch higher than transmission upper surface. It is plugged into the cooling hose.
If it works properly than your problem is that the fluid is not cooling it enough. I am not sure if this is the case, but it may be so that you have some stuff blocking access to part of the engine and while the other part is not that hot and you reading is good, the overall temperature is high. That is just a guess hovewer.
Good luck
I think the sensor is working, because I did overheat last week, and the thermostat does open.
I think you are right about the blockage. Question is is where is it?
I'm also having to add too much water. Don't know if it's circulating or where it is going. Some seeps out of the reservoir, but not as much as I've added.
I had loss of water and mechanic said it's ~350-400 to fix the leaks.
What I did was to look carefully and track the leakeges down.
I had two leakages on the upper part of the engine (under the manifold) and one-two
on the lower surface. I opened the manifold and there is a metal tube there that had a hole in it.
Thus the fluid leaked and pressure dropped and coolant could not circulate.
I did not have time to go to Ford Dealer to replace it and just hooked the hoose from AutoZone (3$)
over the manifold and it works so far :-)
Other source - look at water pump region - you may have weak gasket there and it coolant can leak. Water pump is relatively easy to replace (20$).
If it's a blockage I would suggest going to self car wash , unplugging your coolant hoose from the reservoir and inserting it into the car washer. It has pretty good pressure and will flush your system from whatever you have ;-) After that add new coolant.
Sorry about the lengthy message. This is only my 2nd post so I'm not sure how much to explain. If it's too much info I apologize.
replace the signal light switch on a 1993 Sable?
Thanks,
Vicala
http://www.autozone.com/images/cds/jpg/small/0900823d800c0d69.jpg
Murphy might say it's a 3 hour job, but the Mitchell Labor Estimator says 1.4 hours.
Should a jump start from AAA and driving the car around for an hour bring it back or should I have the car towed to the dealer? I've heard that the alternator cannot recharge a fully drained battery and that the engine computers lose settings that the dealer needs to reprogram if the battery is drained for an extended period of time.