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Comments
96 thru 99 models.
Thermostat required has a small ball bearing which is a bleed valve that must be positioned at the top of the thermostat. If the system does not bleed the air out it will trap air and not allow coolant flow. My mechanic did not even put the right stat in.
(2) Back flush the heater core and see what comes out ( common problem )
(3) Water pump fins can actually be corroded to the point of nonexistence and the engine wont overheat but you wont have enough flow to have heat inside vehicle.
This is not good."
Locate the 2 heater hoses going into the firewall ( about 3/4" hoses).
You can find an adaptor to connect the hose to hose connection or you can duct tape the together.
remove from the intake or any convenient place.
Attach a garden hose to one end and run water thru the core.
run water thru for about 1/2 hour
It helps to catch the water coming out of the other hose in a bucket to see what comes out.
When you flush in the normal direction of flow probably not much sedimate will come out but when you flush the system thru the other hose it will dislodge and show up in the bucket.
I had to back flush one of my sables 3 times over a two week period to correct this problem.
In reference to the damper doors its possible but if your defrosters/dash vents/ and floor vents change with the switch control not very likely.
The failures felt like fuel problems. While the description said "ignition system", the wires that were loose might have caused it to turn off the fuel pump.
I am actually going through this right now. It seems like we have the same similar problem. My car is actually getting fixed this morning as we speak. It seemed at first there was something wrong with my temperature light and I went to one mechanic that I usually don't go to and he told me it was the water pump. My regular mechanic that I usually go to came back from vacation and he told me that my battery is no good and they need to replace the fuel pump. He hasn't given me a price yet on how much this is going to all cost but, I researched how much a new fuel pump is and it's around $210.95.
My car was doing the same exact thing as your car. It just died out of now where. All the lights came on and when I went to try to turn on the car it would just crank and not turn on. I didn't see any leaks on the bottom of the car and I didn't think it was the battery. I had someone try to jump the car and that didn't even work. You should check to see how long you've had your battery and how long does it last. I waited for about 1 1/2hr - 2hr for my car to cool down and start it back up but, when I did all I heard was a click.
Hopefully, you find a good mechanic and figure out if maybe that's the problem or something else.
Good Luck!
I have a 2001 SES w/Vulcan engine and 81,000 miles. It's been a wonderful car. My question is, what struts do y'all recommend? My current factory ones are in good shape still and was wondering when it come time to replace (if ever).
NOTE: Prices below are for front.
1. Gabriel Ultra from Auto Zone for $56.99 and LIFETIME warranty.
2. Monroe Regal Ride from Napa for $58.99 and 1-Year warranty.
3. Monroe Sensa Trac from Napa for $83.99 and LIFETIME warranty.
Or, are their other good choices?
Thanks for your help!
- Alex
No cost whatsoever to do nothing!
You got that done? It would be interesting to know if it helped?
3.0 72000 miles, new fuel filter/ injector cleaner
At random wont idle. after about 3 stops it corrects itself.
To keep it running at idle you have to feather the gas peddle.
No lights come on/ but you can hear a spark knock/ and even at 40 mph
if you let off the gas the rpm drops dramatically like the engine is choking.
Runs fine for a couple of weeks at a time.
I was going to clean out the throttle body but there is a sticker on the body that states do not clean throttle body?
Does anyone have a solution to this problem or what is causing the steering to jerk back & forth when it is turned either way?capt bill2
My question - can just the motor and mirror be replaced. Could I buy a replacement mirror on ebay about 48.00 - but the otherside is plastic - and use the inside parts to replace the motor and mirror.
If so can someone explain how to do that, so perhaps my son can replace his passenger mirror himself.
Goodluck
I once had a new vehicle that "thumped a lot" up front when I first bought it. It turned out that the kid they hired to "dealer prep" their cars was having a bad day and he put 65 lbs of psi in the tires instead of 35.
Saw one site that sells them but they had 57 listed for my 01 Taurus but Edmunds lists 109 for my model.Don't mind paying the money to whoever I go with but I'd like to be able to access all the bulletins not just some of them.
After driving for a week the air conditioner just stopped after blowing very cold. The compressor is not coming on at all. The next day the Cruise control stop working on a short trip out of town.
I replace one fuse that was blown but it didn't help(cruise control).
all major fuses and relays seem ok.
Can any one help me? I'm a little old lady who is tired of being ripped off by local mechanics.
When the starter wore out the heat from the engine causes it to expand and short out. After enough time to cool down it would act normal.
So take the car to autozone when its hot and have the starter checked.
Also some cars have a heat shield for the starter to avoid this problem.
I dont know if a taurus has one.
There is a procedure in your manual for programming the car to recognize additional or replacement remotes, but I believe you have to have one working remote in order to add another one.
I suppose your car could have somehow lost its "memory" of your remote and you could try to go through the procedure for reprogramming it, but again, if I recall properly, you have to have at least one existing operable remote to begin the process.
The reason I'm asking is, my car failed inspection due to the fact that the back brakes were not working as well as the front. I replaced the caliper but that didn't help.
For some reason, the back brakes are not working well. The drivers side is working somewhat, but the right side is not working much at all.
1) The A/C seems to run in all settings except "vent", which causes chilly air to be blown, even at high heat. The In and Out lines to the heater core are both hot. I can see the device driving the mixer is operating, but have not opened it up to see if the flap is actually moving. What can I do to not have the AC running all the time. Oh yeah. The MPG sucks when AC runs.
2) there's a mysterious "Groan" sound, seemingly from the back end. It usually happens only when turning, when the car is hot. Sometimes not at all. Once, after a long road trip, it started moaning loudly and continuously while going ~50MPH, but would silence if applying light pressure on the brake.
After car cooled, noise was gone. There's no shimmy or shake, but you can sortof feel it vibrate. Repair shop was mystified, as am I. Any suggestions?
drive then all is fine. Last week I had a loss of power but the shift problem went away.
I have changed the air filter and am looking for the fuel filter. Have not found the fuel filter yet. Has anyone seen these kind of problems?
Tnx
Rodney
any suggestions
punchy1
When the car is cold and I back the car out of the driveway (maybe 20 feet) after I turn the car off it will burp out a small amount (maybe a couple of spoonfuls) of transmission fluid out of the vent. Since my driveway is concrete, the transmission fluid makes a messy sight.
The car doesn't do this when it is not cold. I have checked the transmission fluid level (when thoroughly warmed up, with the engine running parked, on level ground) and the transmission is not overfilled.
Any suggestions as to what is going on ? And how I may fix this issue ?
Good Luck