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It seems to be a fault relay but I can't find where control module is located.
Any help will be welcome.
I have a 2001 Ford Taurus SES w/95,400 miles with the Vulcan engine. My check engine light come on and I had Advanced Auto Parts read the code - PO442 which means "EVAP Emissions Control System Leak (Small)".
Seven weeks earlier the light came on, only it was a large leak code and I disconnected the battery to turn the check engine light off.
What could it be? I've already tried the gas cap. The cars runs just the same, which is great!
THANKS!
- Alex
http://www.autozone.com/images/cds/gif/medium/0900823d801af831.gif
http://www.autozone.com/images/cds/gif/medium/0900823d801af832.gif
Thanks
The letter I got (went to my file and retrieved it) said that it extended the warrenty two more years. I was about a month past the date on the extension but whined and complained loudly about Ford's reputation going South and "good will" of the dealer for wanting me to buy another Ford from them (my 2nd purchase from them). The advisor went to the service manager and agreed to give it to me. Grovelling sometimes works.
I still love the car even with all of the recalls on top of recalls. It is a nuisance to keep dropping it off and not having a car but I guess those things happen. I bookmark a lot of all of your comments just in case I have issues with that problem. I am the original owner and only put 5000+ miles on a year. Drive only 6 miles a day and very little on weekends.
Looks like a pc. of junk and it was stuck/broken.
Does anyone know where the window washer sprayer motor/pump is located?
Wiper Motor
Brake light switch
Protection covers on front springs (front springs and DPFE Sensor are under Ford issued extended warranty)
Other warranty repairs I have had are:
Wiper notor (yes, the recall replacement one failed under warranty)
Coolant overflow tank/sensor assembly replaced.
All these warranty/recalls were minor and fixed quickly and efficiently. Perfect? No, but close enough so I am happy.
No other warranty or nonwarranty failure issues to date.
Routine oil changes, one transmission flush, new tires last fall, new front brakes last fall, two alignments, a couple of flat repairs, one new battery a couple years ago. That is about it to date. A very good car and solid as it was new.
For safety, I completed all of these activities with the ground wire to the battery disconnected. To remove the radio and test the knob for the fan, I had to buy DIN tools to remove the radio ($4 at an auto parts store, including instructions). I bought a 9 volt transistor battery, some wires, alligator clamps, and a test light. (Auto parts store and Radio Shack, total about $10). I totally disconnected the knob and tested to see how it directed the current in each position. The prong of the knob that connected to the orange wire "fed" each of the black, yellow and green wires in turn, as I switched from high to lower to lower. In the lowest position, none of the prongs were connected to any other.
It turned out that this is exactly what the knob was supposed to do, so the dealer would have been wrong if he replaced the knob (for $360).
Next, I followed the wires from the knob down to below the glove box (on the passenger side) to where they connected to the resistor. To get to the resistor, I had to remove a large plastic panel that was below the glove box, above the area for the passenger's feet. It pulled away from below the dashboard easily (and later re-attached easily, via a couple of plastic prongs).
From below, the resistor is a blue rectangle, two and a half inches by one and a half inches, with four wires attached via a single connector. I disconnected the connector to the resistor and used my test light, wires and 9 volt transistor battery to determine that the yellow, green and orange wires from the knob in the radio enter into the resistor. I don't know where the black one went. The resistor has its own black wire. I suppose this all makes sense to an electrician, but not to me. But as they say in college, it is all intuitively obvious and correct.
I removed the resistor from the vehicle with a socket wrench. It was attached by two hex bolts. In the resistor there is a small heat sensitive circuit/switch that was always closed. I determined that it was always closed by using my wires, alligator clamps, small battery, and test light to try to send a current through it. I determined that it was a heat sensitive switch because the replacement resistor was printed with 128 degrees C. I found a replacement for the resistor on the web at about $12 plus shipping. Not wanting to wait for shipment, I went to the dealer and got one for about $20. When I hooked it up, I found the the knob now controlled the fan speed, like it should. There were four speeds from slow to fast. There was no "off" speed - One of the other controls in the system is used to turn the entire system off, including the fan.
However, I found that the fan sometimes did not come on at all. On some mornings, I found that the fan would have a sluggish start, and througout the day it was unpredictable as to whether it would start at all after it was turned off. I again disconnected the negative wire to the car battery. There are pictures of the replacement fan (blower motor) on the internet, so I looked at those to determine what I would be looking for in the car. The fan/blower motor is located next to the resistor, nearer to the passenger door. It is important to note that none of the repairs required removal of the dash board at all.
The blower motor is attached to the car by three bolts the same size as the two connecting the resistor. I removed the 3 and then the entire housing, motor and squirrel cage fell out easily in one piece. The dealer wanted about $170 for a replacement motor. And probably would have wanted a few hundred more for the labor to install it. At an auto parts store, I found a replacement motor and housing by Four Seasons for $40. I had to remove the squirrel cage from the original motor and put it on the replacement. The people in the auto parts store helped - and told me it is called a squirrel cage. To keep the squirrel cage locked on the motor's axle, I got a replacement clamp in Home Depot for $1, made exactly the right size. I assume the axle is a standard size as the old and new clamps were exactly the same diameter. I suppose I could have re-used the old clamp, but I bent it a little when I removed it to remove the squirrel cage. I reattached the new housing/motor to the car, using the 3 bolts and a couple of guiding posts that remained in the car. I reconnected the wiring harness to the motor and re-attached the plastic panel.
The entire system now works fine.
The original motor/housing has a "gutter" designed to deliver air to the motor to keep it cool. Unfortunately, as water appears in the system from time to time, whether from the weather or from air conditioning condensation, the "gutter" delivers water to the motor instead of the intended air. You can see evidence of the water as stains on the inside of the housing and as rust on the metal motor. The Four Seasons motor/housing design is superior compared to the original. It has separate holes on the inside and outside of the motor to deliver the cooling air. Plus it has a separate hole, nowhere near the motor, for allowing any unwanted moisture to exit the system. The only drawback in this superior design is that you will hear a little more of the motor noise due to the fact that some of the holes open into the passenger compartment. On the original motor/housing the motor was completely sealed away from the passenger compartment via the plastic housing. The added noise is, I think, a small price to pay for a motor that will work. The noise is audible only at the two slow fan speeds, as the air drowns out the noise at higher speeds. And with the CD playing and road noise, it is not much of a factor at all.
Happy Motoring to you all. And keep your repairs safe by always disconnecting the car's battery!
I have my car since new! I have always been plagued with a strange humming groaning noise when turning left or right, usually out of parking in AM. Seams to come from the front, others have heard it says rear? Mostly happens when vehicle first is started or wet weather... then after driving it stops! Every Dealer I have spoken to is very
aloof with the matter as I usually cant get the car to make the noise for diagnosis. Other than the noise... I love my Car!
Getting back to the Taurus, it's an 03 with the 3 liter V6. Nothin' special, just the plain jane stock engine. That doesn't have a timing belt, right?
There seems to be a debate on this. Different answers from different people.
What is typical life expectancy before need of replacement?
Should they be replaced for "wear" or only for failure?
Are aftermarket replacements such as Monroe from Sears or Firestone better or worse than the standard OEM struts/shocks?
Any ideas?
:confuse:
http://www.autozone.com/servlet/UiBroker?ForwardPage=/az/cds/en_us/0900823d/80/1- a/e5/9b/0900823d801ae59b.jsp
My experience is they will usually be good for at least 100K miles and maybe much more.
Usually you can tell when they are getting bad on any car when the car starts to wallow and continue to bounce a while after going over dips and road undulations. The exception may be on most Buicks of older than current design, and larger Toyotas-Camries and Avalons, where the suspension is quite underdamped by intent to produce that soft mushmobile ride.
Car had about 40,000 miles at first sign of tire cupping and tire only had about 10,000 miles. The tire is noisy at about 40mph and there is a very slight thumping vibration felt in the steering wheel at that speed. Feels almost like driving with a small pebble stuck on the tire.
The car does not drift right or left, so it seems wheel alignment is fine.
If you haven't rotated or balanced, you may have just let a small imbalance propagate to the point where it ruined the tire and may need to replace some tires. But if you have rotated and balanced, then yeah, it could be a suspension part such as a strut.
My wife's 03 Taurus has 65,000 miles on the original tires and aside from a little more road noise (which may be from the tires or perhaps the wheel bearings), they are still in amazing condition. No wobbles, no bumps, and still decent tread (5/32"). I've never seen original equipment tires last so long.
The factory tires were pretty evenly worn out by 30,000 miles and were too slick on wet roads, so I replaced them at that point.
I don't quite understand your post. Did you change the fuel filter and now it barely starts? Changing the fuel filter should not affect how the car starts, assuming you put the new one in with the fuel flow direction arrow pointing the right direction and there are no leaks at the connectors.
I have a 1987 Ford Taurus GL 3.0 with A/C. My heater stopped working and is making an alarming clanging noise when I go over bumps or around corners. Normally, I would not care about such things, but considering that I live in Seattle where it's about forty degrees, I care quite a bit. My car generates enough heat at freeway spped to keep the windows from fogging up, but when I sit in traffic I can't avoid it. My question is this.....I can get the heater core diagonosed for about 100 bucks, which will tell me if it's the motor or relay. Or, I can buy the motor and install it myself for about 50 bucks, but it seems like a difficult process, considering I need to go in through the glovebox. Or I can take it some place to have the repairs done, but since my car is only worth about 600 bucks, is it really worth it? Has anyone had similar problems? What did you do to resolve it? Any help or advice would be great.
Thanks.
The heater core if it failed it is either plugged or leaking. I am puzzled about what is "clanging", it normally wouldn't be a sign of the heater core failing! Maybe it is the squirrel cage on your fan that is loose, indicating the fan is worn out?
How has your fix using WD40 worked out?
Now why I still write to this forum? I perform some services myself and couldn’t find PCV. I have pictures where it should be located (under throttle body) but surprised not be able to find it. Pictures are from older Taurus Duratec (may be ’98). Did they change a PCV location on 2000+ models? Thank you.
as far as chaning it.. its one of the fastest, easiest things to do... but can become a little messy.. :P
youll have two connectors to it... just unfasten the clamps at both ends, and pull the two apart.. then connect your new one on the same way you took the old one off... simple as that... trust me it will be alot easier to see and do, then to have it explained in to much detail... but if you have ever changed your oil filter, its even easier and faster than that...:) good luck
My 2002 Ford Taurus wagon has a 200 milli amp electrical leak that won't quit. I've pulled each of the fuses and the leak is still there. At first, I thought my problem was the OEM battery, but a new, recharged battery quickly wore down. That's when I discovered the leak. I clearly need help.
Is what I am observing on my temperature gauge normal or symptomatic of a problem?
1) From a cold start the temperature on the gauge will rise to between the MA of NORMAL and then quickly fall to the N and then rise again.
2) Once warmed up, On highway, it will read between the NO of normal.
3) In city, I have seen it go has high as A then drop to the middle. In city I have also seen it not exceed the R.
Is this normal or symptomatic of an underlying problem.
Some notes: The radiator was replaced as well as the thermostat.
Thanks to all for a prompt response.
I've got the same problem with my car. Were you able to resolve it? Any advice?
Thanks Leo