Taurus/Sable Maintenance & Repair

riswami · June 2002

I don't think it makes any difference where a car is assembled. For that matter it doesn't make much difference where the components are built.

There is an opinion shared by some people that a japanese or european name plate equals a better and more reliable car.American makes have only themselves to blame.

badgerfan · June 2002

I cannot speak for all the millions of people who have bought Tauri over the last 17 years? is it, however, I can speak from my personal experience. I bought a '90 Taurus new, drove it for 10 years and 98,000 miles. In that period I was stranded only once when the starter failed. I did replaced CV joint boots at about 60000, starter at 65000, two tie rod ends at around 50000, and finally had AC leaks and radiator at about 70000. I changed plugs myself twice but with Platinum plugs really didn't need to, and did all my own oil & filter changes about 3,000 mile intervals. That plus normal maintenance, one brake job and one set of tires. It was still going strong and the next owner got a good used car.

So good, in fact, I bought a new 2000 SES at the end of the model year. 15,000 miles so far and no problems. Car is quiet, solid with good tradeoff between ride and handling, and the 24 valve has good power. All for $18,000 and 0.9PCT financing.

The '90 Taurus never developed a squeak or rattle in 10 years. So far the new one is excellent as well.

I'm not knocking the Japanese brands, just seems to me that they generally are overpriced for the same features, and have higher parts costs and costs for "routine" maintenance. So the net result is you end up paying more for perceived peace of mind. Also, all cars have improved so much in the last 10-15 years, that even an car which is rated as having "average" reliability is much better than an average car in the past.

mullins87 · June 2002

I was suggesting that Gary was knocking American cars, yet he is driving one that is just as much American as the Taurus.

I agree with you, I don't think it matters anymore. What does matter is the quality of the parts supplier. And we all know that parts are outsourced on a global level.

I honestly don't believe there is a "hill of beans" difference between Japanese and American cars. The only complaint I have of Japanese cars is the premium people are willing to pay just for that perceived peace of mind.

mrdetailer · June 2002

Have you seen a difference in quality in the newer Taurus? In some of the press I have been reading, and internet sites Ford has been taking a real beating.

My Dad used to be a Chevy man, but the last 4 cars he purchased were all Fords. He is enjoying his 1995 and has recently put a lot of miles on it.

I have started to get interested in them since my favorite mechanic is a Ford/Mazda man, and they can be gotten for a good price. I definitely favor domestic repair costs.

mullins87 · June 2002

My wife and I have been looking at the Taurus wagon. You can get a "lot" of car for the money, considering todays prices. I almost refuse to do the minivan thing, and SUV's are way overpriced. So that leaves the station wagon, which is a fairly small market from the number of wagons available. I tend to buy the car that is "not in vogue" at the time. You can get a lot more car for the money that way. My wife currently has a '95 Cougar. We bought it new, fairly well equiped, for well under $20k. But the bodystyle was aging at the time. Didn't bother me one bit.

I just hope that Ford doesn't drop the Taurus wagon before time for us to buy again.

riswami · June 2002

I wasn't disagreeing with you, it's my way of adding further info and backing you up.I also had a 93 Escort Wagon that was a solid car.

I get ticked when I read the Japanese superior line being thrown out. I have a 98 Mercury Villager. It's amazing how some people knock it because they know it has a Nissan drive train but Ford supplies most of the rest of the vehicle.

I don't care where they are made or who is designing them. I try to get good value for my money. That is subjective and it's nice we live in a country that allows free enterprise and choice!

mullins87 · June 2002

Oops. I apologize. I must've just read it wrong.

gsleve · June 2002

opinion's just as I am, however it has been my experience that over the years (given my short time on this earth) and of all the people I know the frequency of repairs on the american cars has been over and above those of japanese cars (barring a few exceptions) yet I've seen these same people who upon the purchase of their second car (japanese)have way fewer breakdowns and remark how nice and pleasant it is not be plagued by frequecy of repairs. Yes I own a nissan and to my knowledge my particular year was not assembled in the states (could be wrong) additionally have owned a toyota and have owned a ford and have owned a mitsubshi, only one american car have I owned and it constantly needed repairs every other month. Additionally have seen many people who've owned american switch to a japanese vehicle then back to a american and have complained that the american car is constantly at the shop whereas the japanese hardly is with exception routine maintenance. (OPINION)

Those who speak of owning their fords with very few repairs kudos to you, its appears that you are among the few who have experienced such fortune nonetheless when compard to the same number of toyotas or honda's nissan's, the fequency and or calibur of repairs for these vehicles are considerably less to that of fords chevy's chryslers yet I have to confess I do like buicks and oldsmobiles. Of interest too is the fact that some of these manufacturers have had foreknowledge of componets failing ie: head gaskets, transmission and other item some of which they had no awareness of yet proved to be a engineering flaw that needed correcting, I guess this is referred to as a recall yet maybe (planned obselencse)sorry spelling, again I feel that the amount of recalls are way too many and too frequent for these particular vehicles over the years when compared to a japanese vehicles. (OPINION)

IE: Friends 95 taurs cv joint, 2 tranny repairs, head gasket repair, steering rack, ball joints, tie rod ends (the latter are a given wearable items) at 75,000 miles these items I feel failed prematurely and unnecessarily (FACT)

On the contrary 90 Honda Accord 106,000 miles battery; timing belt(maintenance)no tranny no head gasket no cv joints no struts no water pump no steering rack (FACT)

However I will concede to the fact that the gap is slowly and I mean slowly closing, again my OPINION not the GOSPEL OR LAW and I feel just as everybody else is entitled to theirs and with due respect. I'm not here to start a controversy just stating what I know or think or feel however absurd it may be to you. To quote you partially "it's nice we live in a country that allows free enterprise and choice!" this applies with equal force to one's opinion. (OPINION)

riswami · June 2002

last post was pretty well stated. I don't agree with some of your points; but I understand were you are coming from.

As far as head gaskets; Ford should be ashamed for the 3.8 and the problems with head gaskets. Then again, Toyota had a silent recall on head gaskets on the six that powered the four runner. I know first hand, my brother in-law had it done. And it was a documented problem. On top of that, that Toyota engine is a gas pig. So my point is Toyota, Honda and Nissan aren't perfect; no car is.

I'd like to know if Ford trannies fail more than other makes? I work with someone who has the same year as my Taurus. That tranny went out at 70k. I asked her if she ever changed the fluid. She looked at me like I had two heads! Maybe it would have failed anyways.

I was told by my Ford dealer that there are two manufacters (suppliers) of Taurus trannies. One supplier is good, the other more subject to break down. This came from a few people working the service desk in the repair bay. Anyone else ever here of this?

mullins87 · June 2002

Like I said in an earlier post: "What does matter is the quality of the parts supplier."

gsleve · June 2002

be they american korean japanese with proper maintenance fluids changed regularly perhaps more often than the manufacturer recommends the vehicles in question will provide good life, I concur that japanese cars are not without their faults and flaws ie: Toyota v6 motors with the sludge, occuring due to their design I feel that should never occured, perhaps engineering was at fault for producing higher combustion for better performance yet, overlooked the conventional oils limitations.

No car is perfect and we subjectively buy cars based on past performance and value some, differ in this regard which is fine. I'm of the mindset that buicks and olds are a little better built, and if I were shopping I would probably purchase one of them ,my neighbor loves buick's while growing up I've personally seen he has always had good success.

As to you're tranny question I can't remember the website, however this rebuilder commented on the quality of transmissions he felt through his years, as a rebuilder were best better and worse I'll have to find were that was, his comments if memory serves me correct is that he favored the chevy tranny's the most, and felt as a whole the ford's were way under par too many rebuilds came across his table.

Perhaps some years are better than most, yet again I feel if a person uses a good petrol atf and changes every year it'll probably see a good life, if he uses a premium synthetic and changes every other year or perhaps longer probably it'll see and extended life beyond it's intention.

riswami · June 2002

if you think of that web site please post it here.

I thought the same of GM trannies, that they wee more durable than Fords. Have a relative who owns a repair shop. He doesn't notice a difference in # of problems. Who knows which one is more durable.

Good care and reasonable driving should make em last.

gsleve · June 2002

suggested due to the severe driving most of us do that if one used a good petroleum product tranny drain was recommeded 12-15000 fluid change or annually however if one used a premium synthetic the life of the fluid was about triple 45,000 or every two yrs to ensure goog long tranny life. Additionally the article brought out that for every degree the tranny heated the longevity of the fluid was decreased immensley causing it's cleaning and lubricating properties to diminish, however the premium synthetics lasted somewhat longer prolonging tranny and fluid life.

mrdetailer · June 2002

My dad's Taurus had no problems, but I talked him into a change of fluids at 70K. It was very dark and smelled slightly burnt. For one 1200 mile trip it shifted rough, especially from first to second. After that though it ran smoothly. Scared him enough though to change fluids every other year.

GMs tranny's are good enough that BMW uses them for their automatics.

riswami · June 2002

what you're saying about yearly fluid changes, but isn't Ford's recomendation of every 30k pretty aggressive already?I've changed mine twice; and a check of the dip stick reflected cherry red fluid with a good clean smell each time. I believe a lot of GMs say 60 or 90,000 for tranny fluid change. Plus when I've had mine changed I had the fluid exchange that gets it all out of the torque converter.

rayfbaird · June 2002

I have a Mazda which has a Ford transmission. Many of those transmissions have failed. However the majority don't say how often they maintained them. My guess is that most simply didn't.

I am fortunate to have a mechanic that specialized in Mazda and Ford repairs at a dealership for 20 years. He advising changing the fluid every 15K, or 2 years, whichever comes sooner for automatic transmissions.

I have a few friends who have had Ford transmission problems in their Explorers. Further inquiry also proved that they hadn't even thought about maintaining them. They were good on everything else, but completely neglected the transmission.

I have relatives with GM vehicles that have problems with the emissions. It's just a weakness you have to watch out for. I feel the same about Ford Transmissions.

gsleve · June 2002

is pretty aggressive however, their in the industry to make money and I feel they would rather sell you a remac tranny sooner than to extend the the longevity of you're oringinal that's why I believe that a yrly or annual schedule for fluid changes is a must in particular for transmission, take for another example look at braking systems how many people know that if they have an ABS system that the fluid in the master cyclinder has to be changed out every 18months or 18,000 miles very few

Before there were ABS units the regular master cylinder should have had the brake fluid flushed out every 2yrs or 24,000 miles how many followed this schedule, and yet complained when a caliper or wheel cylinder or even a master cylinder went south. However volkswagen subscribe to such a schedule for a long life braking system. This schedule for brake fluid changes was and still is not published in owners schedule whether A or B. (It's called planned obselence so one can continue the economy and by new parts, be it form the manufacturer or an aftermarket who is in an alliance to build or rebuild their parts to spec and recieve a commission.)

murrieta · June 2002

I'm replacing brake pads on all four wheels and front rotors on my 93 Taurus. The front brake cylinders easily retracted into the caliper assembly to allow for installation of the new pads. The rear cylinders will not budge on either side. I have the parking brake off, as I know the brake is integrated into the rear assembly. What is the trick to get the cylinders to retract back into the caliper so I can install the new pads on the rear?

Thanks, Walt

alcan · June 2002

Taurus rear calipers are like most with integrated parking brake. The piston has to be rotated back down a threaded jackscrew for the parking brake. Use a rear caliper piston retracting tool, available for loan at most larger auto parts houses. It rotates the piston clockwise as it forces it into the bore. Make sure the boot isn't stuck to the piston or it will tear. Also verify the notch in the piston lines up with the tab on the back of the inboard brake pad afterwards.

murrieta · June 2002

Thanks for the knowledgeable help. I was able to get the retracting tool from a local Napa supply store and of course, with the right tools and info, the job went effortlessly.

Walt

mullins87 · June 2002

Is that tool universal? Or will I have to buy different sizes for my different vehicles?

alcan · June 2002

Murietta: Glad to hear you got it sorted out. The right tools can make all the difference.

Mullins: Most of the piston retractor kits have several adaptors of different diameters to fit different size caliper pistons. One kit and you're good to go. Just watch out for sticking boots. A shot of WD40 works wonders there.

nbr_brianh · June 2002

I have a 1998 Taurus GS and it started giving me problems last night. When my wife went to go to work, the car wouldnt start. After messing with it, I have figured this much out. Turn the iginition key forward like your starting the car, then no power...period. No lights, seats, nothing. If I turn the ignition to the accesories(?) position (Back), then I get the radio, but thats it. The time will be reset, but none of the presets are lost. However, as soon as I touch one of the electrical switches, the power drops and the clock again resets. My question is since the car wont start at all, is it maybe the ignition switch defective and the short or loose wire is causing weird things to happen with the electrical, or maybe a dead battery and the car only has a touch of power to it that I kill when im trying to use one of the electric features? Any help would be appreciated since I am not a mechanic. Thanks.

~Brian

nbr_brianh · June 2002

1998 Taurus SE, not GS. Not sure if that will make any difference though.

~Brian

mrdetailer · June 2002

I would recommend finding an electric system specialist, or (sigh) the dealer. They have experience with the eccentricities of the electrical system, and can diagnose and repair more accurately.

wijoco · June 2002

Anyone experiencing an irritating "clunk/thud" just under your seat when stopping/turning? It feels like a suspension clunk, but it may be the parking brake adjuster. The adjuster on my 97 is hung loosely under the driver's seat when not applied, a silly setup, and swings back and forth, hitting the underpan when stopping/turning. Ford's better idea is to attach a $.10 foam rubber donut (and by "attach" I mean slide it on to the adjuster and hope it magically stays there) which quickly disintegrates/falls off. A telltale sign is chipped undercoating near the adjuster, where it swings and hits the pan. An easy solution is to attach a bigger piece of foam rubber around the adjuster, and secure it with cable ties. Good luck.

felixc1976 · June 2002

I had an annoying clunk last year when I was turning or stopping. It was irregular, but after 2 months of hopes that it will go away I had it serviced. It took my dealer 3 days to locate the problem. They changed the sub-frame bushings and the clunking sounds stopped. I later read somewhere here that it's a common problem. To my dissapointment exactly after 1 year it began again on my car. Will take it to the same dealer, hoping they know what to do now. Last year the cost was like $120 covered by my extended warranty.

alcan · June 2002

Ford had an extended warranty on Taurus/Sable subframe bushings and bolts. Check with another dealer whether your vehicle qualifies.

ehenness · June 2002

If you have a clunk when you hit a bumpy turn (with the clunk from the outside wheel), it's likely to be the sway bar links. This is apparently a common problem. The sway bar is not directly anchored to the control arms. The connection between the arms and the bar is made by the links (which are called 'stabilizer bar links' by Ford). Each end of the link has a ball-type joint, and that's apparently what wears out.

My '98 needed them after 43,500 miles. It would clunk only on bumpy turns, never on smooth ones or on bumpy straight roads. Turn the corner with a patch or broken pavement, and you got a clunk or knock from the front end.

My dealer (who has a great reputation and is trustworthy) says that Ford has redesigned the links at least once, and the new ones have a 2001-dated part number and should be a lot longer-lasting.

The test to check them is to grab the stabilizer (sway) bar as close to the link as you can (with the car on the ground or on ramps--with a load on the wheels) right next to the strut. If you can move the bar up and down, the links are worn. If you are handy, you can get the parts yourself and replace them. I think they are around $25 a piece (you need two, one for each side, and they have different part numbers). Ford dealers would charge around 1 to 1.5 hours labor to do both links, plus the parts. All levels of Ford's ESPs (extended warrantees) cover this repair. Other 3 party extended warrantees may or may not cover it.

burdawg · June 2002

Strange, but all three of the above "clunks" and their associated repairs (parking brake cable, sway bar links, bushings) are problems that occured at some time or another on my long gone 88 Taurus. I guess things havn't changed that much.

felixc1976 · June 2002

Thanks for the extensive explanation. I can't say that I hear clunking on bumpy roads only. I usually take the same road to work and back and it happens in different places. But always when I'm stopping or turning - I think it has to do with a weight transfer. When the car stops or turns it puts more pressure on the sway bar links and bushings. I'll have my dealer check both. I've got a 3rd party extended insurance and it covered the bushings last time. I love my Taurus and it has been almost problem free for the last 5 year, but if this problem existed on 88 Taurus it is sad that Ford hasn't fixed it by 97-98.

wijoco · June 2002

The blackish rubberized trim paint on my 97 Taurus is deteriorating. (I Armor All all rubber/vinyl/etc trim pieces regularly). The trim first started showing "white spots" about a year ago, which I mistook for mold/mildew. But scrubbing them with bleach had no effect. After playing around with it some more, I noticed that it was the rubberized paint itself deteriorating, and by scratching it with my fingernail I could easily "tear" the rubber, exposing the ugly white stuff. It's spreading all across the door frames on both sides, and looks terrible. I can't cover it up with fresh Armor All any more. (Only the rubberized paint is the trouble, the plain black trim paint on the door A-pillars is OK, as are all solid pieces of rubber trim). Any suggestions?

wijoco · June 2002

I'm on my second driver's power seat. The first track+motor assembly was replaced under warranty because it loosened up and rocked back and forth while changing velocity. Now the replacement is doing the same. This is really infuriating me; I can't deal with the feeling that I'm about to be unbolted from the floor and go through the windshield every time I stop. Considering the warranty cost on the service sheet, parts and labor, was almost $500 (ridiculous!), I shouldn't have the same failure on this new seat. I couldn't find any recall/TSB info on Alldata. Any suggestions?

strokeoluck · July 2002

It's funny I see some posts here about the rear noises on Taurus' because I JUST had mine FINALLY fixed. My noise happens only when there is weight in the back seat (usually 1-2 people) AND we either hit bumps, take turns or accelerate from a stop. Since I'm in sales it's particularly embarassing because it's usually a company VP or customer in the backseat!

I first mentioned this to my local dealer when it was under warranty (I now have 80k miles on a '00 Taurus I bought new) and they couldn't find it. Took it two more times for same problem later and they could never find it. Finally I took it in 2/02 and put four 80# bags of salt in the back seat and they told me the struts were shot and charged me $450. Last month same problem ocurred! Service manager looked it over and told me some of the same stuff mentioned in previous posts about the exhaust hitting something and they "corrected it" at no charge (I hope it's corrected). I said "great, now how about a refund on my struts?!". Worked out a deal for them to send me a check for 1/2 the strut cost since I agreed it would probably need new struts at some point soon (right???).

I owned a '96 Taurus and never had a problem with it but this one has been a piece of sh*t from day one. And I should have known because, even though I really liked the looks and design, it just FELT cheap (doors shake and shimmy when closed). And a good friend of mine, a Ford engineer, told me to be wary of the Taurus. But I figured, for $18,500, what should I expect??? A Beemer? Since I sell to many automotive suppliers I'm somewhat stuck w/Big Three models (can't afford the "sister" Big Three models like Volvo, Saab, Range Rover, etc.) but this is definitely the last Taurus I buy. My '97 Pontiac Grand Prix gave me 100k TROUBLE-FREE miles and I loved that car. As soon as they redesign it I think I'll buy another one, as long as it doesn't look as god awful as that Bonneville or, gulp, the AZTEK!!!

- Rob

sroc · July 2002

Hi - Have a 2000 taurus. The steering wheel shakes on hard braking. Any ideas? I initially thought it was just the steering wheel, but a friend sitting next to me mentioned the whole car seemed to be shaking while braking at high speeds. Is this just the brakes, or something wrong with the steering wheel?

heng · July 2002

Most likely your rotors are warped. But you should also feel a pulsing in the brake pedal when this is happening.

Another possibility if you don't have the brake pedal pulsing is that a tire has a shifted belt and the tire is no longer round. But most likely it is warped brake rotors.

sroc · July 2002

Hey heng

You are probably right. The pulsation is there, though slight. The tires are ok - just replaced them last month because two of them had shifted belts!! Any idea how much fixing warped rotors should cost?

Jeramie · July 2002

Most likely warped rotors. Buy a dial indicator and magnetic base at Sears to check for runout($70). Buy a Chiltons maintenance book at car parts store ($15). If runout exceeds specs in book then buy the rotors at $55 ea. Here is a link to the price for rotors.
www.carparts.com
Rotors and pads are maintenance items a regular person can do themselves on a saturday morning :-)

Jeramie · July 2002

Sorry, server wouldn't let me post entire link. Just enter you model year taurus. Go to the replacement parts section and look for rotors.

I have the same problem on my '00 SES. I'll probably change the rotors at 35K miles. Car developed the runout around 25K miles. My wife says it's my fault because of my spirited braking habits ;-)

vince4 · July 2002

My 2000 does exactly the same thing, clunks over bumps when I have rear passengers. Once got it to happen with a couple of guys sitting on the rear bumper and bouncing up and down. I haven't complained to the dealer since it's a minor problem but I'd like to get it fixed. Do you know what exactly was hitting or what they did to fix it?

vince4 · July 2002

My 2000 also has the oscillating steering wheel when braking. This is a classic symptom of warped brake rotors. I took it in under warranty and they said the rotors are within spec so they balanced the front tires. It helped 50% but didn't eliminate the problem. I'll try once more before the warranty expires. I don't have much faith in Ford because this (and other) problem has been around a long time. Ford doesn't seem to place much value on refinement, unlike the Japanese competition I'm sorry to say.

slickdog · July 2002

The Taurus has been notorious (from the beginning) for having short-lived front brake rotors (among other things which I won't mention here). Several mechanics have told me that they are either too small for the weight/size of the car, or constructed poorly (heat up too much, too easily). I always do my own brake work, and once had to have the rotors machined twice inside two years! That's much too soon, because I've owned GM vehicles that would go 5+ years without warping their brakes. Higher quality aftermarket (non-OEM) rotors seem to do better on the Taurus, but you'll pay a premium for them and they still don't last as long as they should. I've decided that it's probably a design issue.

You may also want to watch out for other factors that will help rotors wear/warp prematurely, like:

- Overtorquing of the wheel lugs.
- Loose friction between the pads/rotors. Restricted caliper travel will cause the pads to make excessive contact with the rotors when the brakes are not in use, heating them up too much and warping them. Corroded/rusted/poorly lubricated caliper bolts is the most common culprit here.
- Rear brake problems. Front wheel drive vehicles will eat front pads/rotors very quickly if the rear brakes aren't helping out enough.

sroc · July 2002

I have a feeling I learnt more here than I will when I go to the mechanic!! I am seeing him next Fri - will keep you posted .....

ezaircon4jc · July 2002

I've had 4 Sables. Our current one is a 96 with 110K+ (86 w/50K, 88 w/125K, 91 w/175K). Once the rotors warped, which didn't take long, I replaced them with the NAPA lifetime rotors. The NAPA rotors didn't warp. One of the many downfalls of FWD is their appetite for front rotors. Ford's are notorious.

mwdream · July 2002

Does anyone know if this can be done? or has done it themself?

alcan · July 2002

Anything can be shoehorned in, but the Probe engine bay is kinda tight for the Yamaha engine. The intake system takes up a lot of room. They couldn't even get one into a production Taurus engine compartment. Compare a SHO to a regular 3.8 Taurus. Everything had to be moved around to accomodate the engine; battery tray, coolant surge tank, washer fluid reservoir, etc. You might want to try asking here, at the national SHO owners' club:

http://www.shoclub.com/

stantont · July 2002

I owned a 1991 SHO, and it warped front rotors very quickly (rears are still original at 135,000 miles). The original rotors were "composite": the outer wear part was cast iron, the center section was sheet steel. After the second set warped, I found I could buy one-piece all cast iron aftermarket rotors for about twice the price. They have lasted much longer than the originals. As I recall the originals warped first at about 15,000 miles, replaced with similar. They warped again at about 32,000 miles, at which time I installed the heavier all-cast rotors. Those finally warped at about 120,000 miles. Go for the heaviest long-warranty aftermarket rotors you can find.

mralan · July 2002

My 01 SES with ABS creates alot of "chatter" when I brake hard. Otherwise, I don't feel any pulsing or anything to indicate warped rotors.

Any ideas?

stantont · July 2002

The chatter is probably the ABS kicking in. What ABS does is check the wheel for lockup, then if it is locking, it releases the pressure for a split second, then checks again, then repeats. It does this about 10 times per second, and the chatter is a normal consequence of this. As the system bleeds off pressure, it also bleeds off fluid, so the brake pedal gradually sinks toward the floor; then at some point, a pump pushes brake fluid back into the master cylinder and thus pushes the pedal back up so you can keep on braking.

The severity of these effects depends on how frequently the system tests for impending lockup and how far it lets the pedal sink before it pumps it back up. In principal, it could probably be done so fast that you would not notice it, but the computer power and hydraulic pump power to do that would probably be pretty expen$ive.

My SHO had a 4-channel system: a separate controller for each wheel. At the entrance to the parking garage at work there was a sharp bump; if I went over it with the brakes on just a little too hard, the inside front wheel would try to lock as it lifted over the bump and the ABS would give a couple of "ticks" before the wheel got back down on the ground.

All of this is quite normal. It ONLY happens when you brake hard enough for the ABS to kick in, so (almost) never in normal driving. If you get it often, maybe you are driving too d*** hard! ;-)

badgerfan · July 2002

I agree the brake chatter is likely the ABS kicking in. I have found my '00 Taurus SES will chatter slightly at times even when braking going around a tight turn, or when coming to a sharp stop on uneven pavement. It appears the ABS is very sensitive, and may begin to kick in at the slightest sensing of differential wheel speed between the left and right side wheels.

Any Taurus mechanics out there that can confirm that the Taurus ABS system actually senses differential wheel speed as well as absolute wheel speed to determine when to apply ABS?

Taurus/Sable Maintenance & Repair

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