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You may wish to RE READ all those past suggestions.
Bottom line:
1) Consensly think about how you are breaking in your engine.
2) Consensly change your driving habits to improve MPG.
3) Engine is not "loosend up" in for at least 15K miles.
Actually MEASURE your MPG.... judging from a "tankfull" is not accurate because of many factors including;
*) size of fuel tank
*) behaviour of fuel gauge needle (as compared to other cars)
BTW: I constistantly get between 600 - 700 miles per tankfull on my TDI 8-)
I also write down EVERY drop of fuel that is put into the tank and the milage. I KNOW that I can get up to 56 MPG on my Jetta.
I asked these same questions back in Aug and don't think you ever answered them.
Can the VAGCOM be different from what the dealer has?
thanks
A VAGCOM used in conjunciton with troubleshooting skills is no less effective than a dealership computer.
BEWARE: Most dealerships will CHARGE you to just hook your car up to their computer (somthing you already did with VAGCOM anyway.) Theere is no guarantee that a dealership will actually FIX anything... their main job is to make $$. They will gladly charge you for labor to change parts and charge you for the parts too. (irreguardless if they actually fix anything)
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I looked up "P0411" it comes out as "Secondary Air Injection System Incorrect Flow Detected" (but you already knew that)
"P0411" also is VAG code "16795"
Soooo you need to first understand what this errorcode is telling you... then you can begin to troubleshoot.
I have a 2000 VW Jetta GLS, 4 cylinder, 2.0 with 79,500 miles on it. Recently, I've discovered a strange problem with the car...
The morning start (cold start) idles extremely low and sometimes dies on me. Once I get the car running, take it for a drive, the start/idle problems disappear for the rest of the day. Like a ghost, they're gone (until the next morning). I've taken it to just about every shop I can (besides the dealership) who I just don't trust. Nobody can explain it. I've replaced the fuel filter, checked the platinum spark plugs, nothing seems to cure it...
Anybody have any idea what's causing this?
Thanks in advance. Great site, great people.
Read the "Federal Emmissions Warantee" booklet which came with your car when you purchased it.
I believe the emissions warranty is part of the federal Clean Air Act, so the dealer shouldn't be able to duck out of honoring that part of the warranty.
Basically, the Feds are the ones that mandated that the automobile manufacturers meet the clean air act... and their products must meet the standards over the life of the vehicle. (not just when it leaves the factory) If a vehicle DOES NOT meet emmissions standards... it is the MANUFACTURER that is responsable to pay for failed emmissions components (ie... catalytic converter)
the engine lite went off for about 3 weeks then came back.
I didn't note any problems after the light went on. Gas milage
was consistant with that before the light went on. I drove it for 2 years until it was time to inspect. I took it to a
reputable guy I know. The code (I don't remember) but he said
the code indicated a rich mixture but because it was running
GREAT he didn't want to do anything other than blow some air
down the throttle body. Light went off for about 6 months.
When I came back on, I decided to try the same thing only I did notice a buildup around the butterfly. I cleaned it up with some starting fluid and a tooth brush and the light went off. So what I'm saying here is check out what it looks like around the butterfly. If your not getting the right amount of air intake, the computer thinks there's too much fuel.
when I accelerate, it starts hesitating and there is no
power. It runs fine at idle. When I finally do get up to speed
it seems fine until I fo to accelerate again. When the hesitation is occuring, the engine light is flashing.
I'm thinking injectors or the ignition coil here but at $118 a pop fo rthe injectors, I want to be sure. I have 113K miles on it. Thanks in advance.
As I recall, the partnumber suffix imprinted on the ignitors is a way to tell if you may have a questionable one in your hand.
Also, you may wish to verify that the turbocharger is supplying the expected boost pressure. A turbocharged engine with no boost would behave EXACTLY like you describe.
the previous owner of my jetta tdi was also a mechanic hobbyist...and went out and did some modifications to the car.
1- new Mass air flow body
2- No EGR back to intake manifold
3- larger injectors,
4- new,ECU chip
The guy looked like he know what he was doing, he had all the spare parts..used parts, and could speak intelligently about the mods. However, do you think all this will significantly decrease the longevity of the engine ? Providing that I do all required maintenance on schedule?
thanks...
Anyone know what might be causing the Lean Mixture or if this is a common problem with this car ??
Any help much appreciated.
under this recall at ~20-25K miles. Givn what you suspect with
the turbo, I think I'm going to look there as I don't hear it
"winding up" at 2500 rpms or so.. Thanks!
connections and all the engine fuses in the fuse box.
Thanks in advance.
1. Check Fuel P">ressure Regulator and residual pressure
2. Check Fuel injectors
3. Check intake air system for leak
4. Check Fuel Pump
5. Check exhaust system for leaks
6. Check secondary air intake for seal
7. Check vacuum lines for proper seal
If the alternator's copper ring has very deep grooves, then it's time to replace the entire alternator (new alternators have the voltage regulator already installed).
HTH
Here is the link to the recall notice.
http://users.adelphia.net/~peebsrus/MAF-Refund-Page1.jpg
I realize your 2002 does not fit into the recall range... but it is a place to start. There are some other possible reasons you could get this "lean" code. (ie... faulty O2 sensor)
The reason it "goes out" is because the computer will "reset" the code after some number of "trips" that do not throw code.
BTW: An inline 4 cylinder engine only has ONE "bank"... a V-engine would have 2 "banks"
Thanks for the info. This is my daughter's car, but I am in charge of keeping it going. About 3 months ago, this Lean MIL code showed up, found that the a crankcase hose (Y shaped and expensive) had a tear in it allowing outside air in. Replaced it and the Lean MIL code went away, but I wondered if the MAF might have been contaminated.
Maybe it has. Any idea what VW gets for a new MAF sensor ??
A VagCom goes deeper than just "reading the codes" and is able to help you isolate the failing component.
There is no need to go to VW for MAF... there are several online VW parts suppliers if you need to purchase one. Here are some examples.
http://www.worldimpex.com/
http://www.1stvwparts.com/
http://www.germanautoparts.com/
http://www.bestforeignparts.com/
http://www.autopartsworld.com/volkswagen_parts.html
Oh, and the lights in the console that light up the air/heat dials only turn on when they feel like it---it drives me nuts!
Thanks for listening to my rants!
I have noticed that my driver side, driver window switch does not work useless you push it down all the way. Now this irritates me.
There is a nipple on the inside of the front doors that manages to accumulate small rocks (from shingles), pine needles and other assorted grunge that impedes the draining ability. Plus, with the Texas heat, my passenger side exit valve was effectively closed until I reamed it our with a micro screwdriver.
The rear drain holes I couldn't access without taking off the sunroof, but I was able to clear the exit holes (near the back of the car underneath). Amazing what you can find in there.
I had a leakage problem in a '95 Jetta that I owned. I discovered the source of the problem - the water from the sunroof was routed via channels that ultimately ran under the backseat. When I lifted up the back seat there was a hole in the channel. It appeared that the hole was formed due to a automated welding mishap when the body panels were welded during manufacturing. I just fixed it myself with something like rain gutter putty/sealant. By the time I realized that this problem existed there had already been damage to the computer that controls the transmission (which was contained in a box that was also under the back seat. Because the computer that controls the transmission was damaged I eventually ended up with a ruined transmission. Fortunately the vehicle was still under warranty and they replaced the transmission for free, but overall it was not a good experience. Some little thing like a bad weld that exposed the sunroof drain channel ended up ruining the transmission.
This whole experience turned me off to VW for a number of years. I recenlty purchased an '06 GLI and I'm having some rattles. This doesn't bother me too much if we can isolate the source and fix them. I've had it in for service but we didn't isolate the source. I now think it's been isolated (the door opening mechanism inside the door - if I press on the opener where your thumb goes I can make a rattling sound inside the door). Otherwise, the new GLI does seem quite a bit better than my previous Jetta re interior quality, engine, transmission, etc... and it is really fun to drive.
* After sitting for a while (a few hours or overnight) and I go from Park to Reverse to Neutral to Drive there is about a 4 second delay. If I step on the gas immediatly, the car jerks in to drive.
* Also, the past 2 weeks there have been a few isolated incidences where I will be at a stop and begin to accelerate (not at a ridiculous speed or level of RPM's)and when car hits about 3000 RPM's at about 20 miles per hour the car feels almost the transmission dropped out. I'm not sure how i explain it. It doesn't slow down or stall the car but its almost like I hit a huge potholes but there is nothing on the road). When it does this, there is no sporatic change in the tachometer. But I know that it is not normal.
I took the car to the dealership to have the shifting delay problem looked at and the dealership charged me $175 to diagnose the problem, that they couldn't duplicate. All volkswagen models have a 60,000 powertrain warranty so I was a little confused as to why they charged me for that service. And I'm afraid that they will continue to charge me for the diagnostics.
Any advise would be great!
Bet advice I'd give you, once the problem is resolved, just part ways with the car.
Otherwise, they would have every Tom, Dick and Harry stoppying by for a free "diagnosis" ... then go home to fix it themselves. Besides, they have to pay for that computer ;-)
You have several options....
*)Purchase yourself a VagCom
*)Go to an autoparts store that offers "pulling the errorcode" for FREE.
*)Locate a VagCom owner in your area... most are more than willing to hook up your car and run thru the diagnostics.
I *can* tell you that I had a nagging problem on my (under warantee) Jetta that only occoured on the first startup in the morning when the nightly temp was below -20F. The dealer was obviously not able to reporduce the CCOOLLDD conditions that caused my ESP light to go on.
I used my VagCom one morning to capture the conditions and print out the diagnostic results. My dealership gladly accepted this printout and replaced the faulty component.
Given that my VagCom has also helped to fix several other VWs in the family, I find it paid for itself several times over.
If issues arrive AFTER the formal warantee time-period, there will be a record of your constant complaints. This may give you some recourse to get resolution to the problem.
I know it is a hassle to take car to dealership just to log a complaint that they will not be able to reproduce... but it may be your only way out.
Dont forget to KEEP every printout that the dealer gives you when you "complain". They may conventiontly "lose" their paperwork. If you can prove that a "defect" existed during the warantee period, then you may have the law on your side.
On my way home tonight the the light blinked to say it was overheating. So i looked down and it was right...it was..I couldn't go above 50-55mph before it would touch the red again and blink..You could feel a lag in power, as if to say the turbo was shut off. When i got off my exit, doing anything below 40, it goes back to being normal, and the needle being straight up and down. I'm calling VW monday. Any ideas?
Recurring problem(s):
1) Engine idles a bit high (8,000+rpm) and when the clutch is engaged stopping at a light or stopsign too much gas is fed to engine and car almost stalls out. The tachometer drops below 2,000rpm before "bouncing" back up to about 5,000-6,000rpm. Engine recovers when idling. Usually the Engine light accompanys this problem.
2) Engine does not idle at a steady rpm, but rather constantly "bounces" between 10,000-18,000rpm feeding gas to the engine. Engine light usually remains on, but sometimes disappears for awhile. EPC light now making an occasional appearance on the dash.
Need any assistance or ideas as to what the problem(s) may be. Mechanic often can't "duplicate problem" and does his best to diagnose dilemma. Bills starting to pill up replacing parts and eliminating possibilties. HELP!