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Toyota Camry: Problems & Solutions
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Comments
Are you telling me the mechanic is fixing the wrong sensor??? What about P0136?
Where can I find more information on those codes? I am afraid the dealer service center is not fixing my actual problem. That may be explained why I have sensors problem in two months.
PO171:Lean Mixture
1) Is is just the abs doing its thing in conjuction with these aftermarket pads?
2) will my rotors warp?
I ask the second question because there are times that I have very little braking force at low speeds, then the brakes "grab" and the car lurches slightly forward. I have learned to live with this, but would like to know if this is in fact a problem. Thanks
Also thank you for this site (edmunds.com). This is by far the most informative site for autos. Everything else is propaganda and influenced marketing. For example Consumer Reports is a very sketchy magazine, so is Car and Driver.
So my mechanic reset the computer and turned up the idle speed, which helped but the revving is still there, more slightly though. Once the car gets going, there are no problems and everything feels like before. For PM, I asked my mechanic to replace the timing belt and all the external belts. Unfortunately, he also replaced my spark plugs with non-platinum type.
Can anybody help me out, please? Where should I ask him to check? Could it be a problem with the spark plugs?
Since the car was new, we have experienced the radio (AM section only) intermittenly having the sound become distorted, with reduced sensitivity. Strong, local stations (all stations) gradually (over a period of a minute or two) become distorted to the point of becoming unintelligible. The condition lasts for about ten minutes, and usually occurs soon after the car is started.
Problem is, the dealer cannot replicate this problem. Car has been in for warranty service several times; once we left it for two days. They replaced the radio but it did not fix the problem. I said at the outset that it sounded like an antenna problem to me. However, they seem unwilling to do anything more until we can bring it in with the radio malfunctioning. They claim to have verified that there is no break in the antenna wiring. But as I said, the problem is intermittent.
Believe me, we have tried. But the radio seems to operate OK when at the dealer.
Anyone have any suggestions as what is wrong / what to do?
Thanks in advance for any help.
This has left me with doubts on car. This is my third Camry since 1994. The other two were leases and had no trouble. This one is outright purchase. Wondering if I should make effort to obtain extended warranty insurance?
use a spray bottle or water hose on the outside parts to try to eliminate than as a source of the noise
(1) In the summer (especially humid days after a/c has been running), the car won't start after having been driven for say, 30 minutes or longer.
(2) Interior lights, radio, everything else is fine.
(3) After about 1 1/2 hours of being parked, the starter will once again start just fine.
(4) I've had the starter, battery, alternator replaced. No joy.
(5) In the late fall/winter, starter is never a problem.
Any Ideas?
(1) In the summer (especially humid days after a/c has been running), the car won't start after having been driven for say, 30 minutes or longer.
(2) Interior lights, radio, everything else is fine.
(3) After about 1 1/2 hours of being parked, the starter will once again start just fine.
(4) I've had the starter, battery, alternator replaced. No joy.
(5) In the late fall/winter, starter is never a problem.
Any Ideas?
Don't ask me how to replace them, as I've never had the need to learn how to replace them.
Sunshine60105!
First the dealership said it might be rear bumper mounts and lubed then... when that did not work they said it was a normal noise from the brakes!!! I didn't spend all that money for a car that 'thunks'!... Anyone else have a similar situation?
I still need to troubleshoot another faint buzz/rattle within the dash area. Anyone else getting a buzz/rattle in the dash?
My transmission (like others w/ Generation 2 on this board) will not shift into overdrive till engine is warm. I know some have said that this is normal, to help the engine warm up faster. I think that is bunk from toyota. My car did not do this until it had about 78,000 miles on it.
Any guesses as to how long before a rebuild?
I'm not really worried. Just curious if anyone has had to rebuild/buy new transmission yet after failure while experiencing this symptom.
Anyway, about a month ago, I started having very "jittery" steering. 2 weeks ago, car began to make loud clunk when turning wheels a lot, such as turning into a parking space or a tight turn onto a street. After a "clunk", the steering will pull to whichever side I just turned to.
eg: If I turn left onto a street and it "clunks", when I straighten out the steering wheel will want to turn left badly... until I turn right hard enough to make it "clunk" again, then it pulls right.
Any similar experiences? Any ideas as to which components are the likely culprits?
I've read that these vehicles often have issues w/ lower control arm bushings, and the whole lower control arm is replaced. Would this problem cause this symptom? Any guesses?
All info appreciated. Thanks in advance.
I was thinking tie rods maybe? Control arms? I am no mechanic
It is a '90 Camry DX, 3SFE 4 cyl, automatic.
Again, any info. is appreciated.
~alpha
However, maybe you misread my post- my car has NOT ALWAYS done this. Therefore, it can't be normal for my car, by definition of the word. Perhaps, it was supposed to always do it and did not start till nearly 80,000 miles. I highly doubt it though.
No other vehicle I've owned has done this. My friends toyota truck did not do it, and his friends '91 Camry did not do it.
To say (as some have) that it is normal simply because everyone on this topic has experienced it, is illogical- the title of this topic is "Camry Problems". People would not be looking here in the first place if they thought it was "normal". Sort of like saying someone who has engine knock on a GM truck would decide it is normal after looking at the GM engine knock discussion.
Not trying to pick on anyone. It just amazes me what some people will make themselves believe solely b/c Camrys are supposed to be reliable.
My Camry has been very reliable, IMO. However, not as reliable as my '93 Chevy Cavalier was- a car which is rated horrible for reliability in CR and most other places. No matter what the ratings say, my Cavalier's suspension did not sound like you were in a wooden pirate ship w/ all the creaking and groaning. My Camry does. Cavalier never used a drop of oil. Camry has started using around a quart every oil change. Cavalier still blew cold air at 100,000. Camry a/c stopped at 72,000 (in middle of desert, no less!) And, I had more miles on the Cavalier than I do on the Camry now- and both were purchased used, around 50,000 miles.
Does that mean ratings are bad sources of info? No. It means cars are cars. All will have problems, all will die, some before others. Often, despite statistics to the contrary.
I feel Camrys are very reliable. But if someone asked me about mine, I'd tell them the truth.
My Camry problem description:
It uses a little oil. High and low (pressure) a/c lines developed holes around 70 k. Steering and suspension noises are not confidence inspiring after 80 k (my passenger side strut was busted when I changed the fronts, helped ride a lot, but scary noises are still present- afraid I need to replace lower control arms). Both CV half shafts failed and were replaced b/w 70-80 k. Had a horrible grinding noise when braking that appeared at odd times (once every couple months), w/ no relation to temp., humidity, etc. No mechanic could figure it out- rotors fine, pads fine, wheel bearings ok, etc. Never resolved- hasn't happened in over 2 years- but not forgotten. Transmission as described before- though others say it hasn't caused problems so I am hopeful. Coolant leak- once, no big deal.
I would say, "It has never stranded me once. I feel it is reliable."
I would not say "Well, Consumer Reports or JD Powers or whoever says it is one of the most reliable cars, so I can recommend it based on them."
I really "feel" the transmission will keep going a long time- especially since yours has always done it and is at 147 k.
Any ideas on the suspension/steering? (#952 and #953)
dealer was not able to fix it!!!! help????
I am glad the shop manual says this is the way it is designed, gives me confidence that it won't die.
I believe you when you say that other manufacturers use this engine warm-up method also. But in my experience no other car I've driven, nor my friends toyota's, do this. Perhaps, they do, but their shift into overdrive is not as "clunky", and therefore not noticeable. I say this b/c when it does finally shift into overdrive, it jerks pretty hard. That's the only reason I ever noticed it anyway.
I never said I had delayed warm-up. My car warms all the way to operating temp. in about 1 minute after placed under load (driving).
I do notice that it will not warm-up for sometimes 10 minutes or longer if I just let it idle (such as in in winter). I assumed this was normal since the owners manual says not to let it warm-up for more than a 30 secs- it says to just drive it soon after starting (or something to that effect). I always thought that was odd, my wifes buick would warm up in 2-3 mins while idling under exact same conditions. And I was taught to let an engine warm-up before driving it. But it never worried me b/c of what manual says, just strange.
I replaced the thermostat a while back anyway(good preventative measure at this age and mileage). Old one was working fine, and I noticed no change in warm-up/operating temp.
On the topic, this was the first car I changed the thermostat on where it was located off the lower (instead of upper) radiator hose. Is this a toyota thing, a foreign make thing, or maybe just a FWD/electric fan thing? I can't remember if I ever changed one on FWD before, that's why I ask.
I bought a Chilton's for my car (used it for struts)- but it would be handy to have one from Toyota
You said it was a 2002 right? Have you taken it to the dealer? They should fix it under warranty!
Don't let them give you the "could not duplicate problem" BS. Make the service manager take a ride w/ you so you can show them the problem.
And. some engines do have knocks which the manufacturer says are normal. So, who defines normal, manufacturer or what the owner perceives as should be normal?
I am not saying YOUR transmission is not normal. I am glad (as I said previously) that the symptom I described is stated to be normal by Toyota. I never said I did not believe you. I never said I did not believe Toyota that this is the way they are supposed to operate (after someone stated this is in the shop manual, Paul29, I think- before that it was just hearsay from a dealer).
But MY transmission CAN'T be normal since it did not ALWAYS do this- began around 78,000 miles... like I said in my first post!
Normal implies ordinary- when something is out of the ordinary it is said to be ABNORMAL. My transmission would be abnormal because it began behaving out of the ordinary for itself around 78,000 miles!
If you read post# 961 you'll see that I say perhaps it started shifting harder after 78,000 miles, and I only noticed it then. Either way, it has not been "normal" since that time.
Again, go carefully read my post... I said "GM truck owner's engines".
I didn't say "some engines". You said that.
Yes, engine knocking on cold start can be a normal noise. Often, the valve lifters are dry and will "knock" till the oil pump gets enough oil up there- this would be normal (though still not a great thing- thinner usually oil helps).
GM's problem which I alluded to, has been documented several times as piston slap. Piston slap is "not normal". It is bad, it causes premature wear. If you read any of the posts over there, you'll see that it generally only happens in 1 or 2 cylinders. If normal, why not all 8 cylinders?
But since GM is the manufacturer, and they are telling owners it is normal, I guess you would side with GM. You stated...
"And. some engines do have knocks which the manufacturer says are normal. So, who defines normal, manufacturer or what the owner perceives as should be normal?"
So even though many owners w/ knocking engines have vehicles that burn a quart of oil in less than 3000 miles (on a brand new truck!!), I guess it is normal cause GM says so.
BTW- If I had said any knocking in any engine, then you would have a point. But I didn't, I alluded to GM's current problem. I don't mind arguing, but please, don't put words in my mouth.
And I sincerely apologize for not believing the transmission thing was normal, till Paul29 said it was in the toyota shop manuals (and you later said that, armtdm). You were right.
I have a mistrust of dealer's words (especially Toyota and Ford, since my worst treatment was at these places). And I think other people had said their Toyota dealer told them this was normal, hence my disbelief.
ECU is the ignition module, correct?
I don't see how it could have anything to do w/ your transmission problem- but I could easily be wrong. Is that what you're wondering, anyway?
Hopefully someone else who knows vastly more than I do will answer.
The ECU is the main central computer, it controls and monitors various sensors within the engine and to some degree, the transmission. There may be a separate ECU for the transmission, as it was the case in previous Camrys, which according to your profile (1990 Camry), this is the case. You can run a diagnostic on the ECU computer, though since getting rid of my old 1988 Camry...I can't remember the procedure. I think it's covered in the Haynes manual though, or definitely in the Toyota shop manual.
If the dealership doesn't work out, you can always try a transmission shop. Toyota dealerships aren't always the greatest place to go. For the age of your car, you're better off taking it to a shop which its staff are specialized in tranny repair, and it will be much cheaper than the dealership.
from fort bragg.....
Hooah!