Camry generation are we talking about? I was thinking of the 88-92.
The problem with the truck engines was the heads and head gaskets - I don't think other Toyota V-6's that shared the block series had the same problems.
2014 Mini Cooper (stick shift of course), 2016 Camry hybrid, 2009 Outback Sport 5-spd (keeping the stick alive)
I think it has been a few years since Toyota made the Camry wagon. I thing you're trying to decide between the 2.2L four or the 3.0L V-6. I've had both engines. The four is perfectly adequate, but the six is smoother and much more powerful. If you enjoy performance get the six. Otherwise, get the four. Both engines are reliable and durable.
Does anybody else with a 97-01 generation camry have a problem with their driver or front passenger seat rattling or "clunking" when going over bumps? If so, has your dealer found a fix? Thanks.
I tried to change coolant on my 97 Camry LE(4 cylinders) this afternoon. After lose the radiator drain plug, the coolant was flowed out, after it finished draining, I found only about 1 gallon of coolant was out, check the manual, it should be about 7.3 quarts(less than 2 gallons), check the procedures mentioned in the manual again, found that another drain plug from the engine block needs to be loosen as well, I have no idea where this plug is located, anybody has this experience and knows where it is located? (on top or on the bottom side, etc) Thanks a lot!
I tried to change coolant on my 97 Camry LE(4 cylinders) this afternoon. After lose the radiator drain plug, the coolant was flowed out, after it finished draining, I found only about 1 gallon of coolant was out, check the manual, it should be about 7.3 quarts(less than 2 gallons), check the procedures mentioned in the manual again, found that another drain plug from the engine block needs to be loosen as well, I have no idea where this plug is located, anybody has this experience and knows where it is located? (on top or on the bottom side, etc) Thanks a lot!
Hey. I purchased my new 2002 Camry LE V6 in September 2002 (just about a month ago). I'm generally happy with the vehicle and everything-- no rattles or squeaks or "thunk" sounds. But I was wondering whether I have a prob or not.
When starting from stopped position, I feel as though I need to really step on the gas pedal to get the car moving... That is, the engine doesn't seem very sensitive. And, say, if I really step on it, there's a moment of pause before the engine responds. I remember my previous vehicles a bit more responsive for some reason.
So, what do y'all think? Should I bring it over to the dealership and have it looked at? Or am I just a nit-picking dork? Thanks for your responses in advance.
I saw something hanging at the front right wheel three weeks ago. I brought my car to my dealer, they told me it was some plastic cover loose, need to be replaced. They fixed it quickly for me, and I brought car back.
then I started to notice the "brake light" is on/off when I was driving although my hand brake is off. and I heard some funny noise from engine. I brought car back to dealer again one week later and told them what I felt and ask them if it was something related to what they did to fix the plastic base last time. They checked and told me it was water pump leakage, water pump needs to be replaced. the "Brake light on" is because the front brake need to be replaced. and engine noise is because of rear left tire rod bend . both rod and limen need to be replaced. since my car is 43k miles. I decided to fix water pump this time, and do all the rest job at 45k maintanence. The next day, I can't even start my car. Called AAA to tow my car to dealer. It was discovered due to out of battery. Dealer checked the car thoroughly and said it was all set. One week later, which is last Friday, I can't start car again. Called AAA, they recharged battery by jump cables and started car. I drove it to my dealer and ask them to have it checked since I never had battary problem before and suddenly this happened twice in one month. They call me back today said my car starting up part(don't know what's the part name yet) doesn't work properly, need to be replace. and due to rear left tie rod bend, the rear left tire needs to be replaced. futhermore, dealer suggested to replace all four tires this time.
Just wonder is it normal for a three years*(43k miles) camry? How is my dealer, are they saying the truth? To me I felt the car started with a minor issue,which is "something hangging at front wheel", and became major problem, which is "can't started car at all".
Appreciated for any advice.
Btw, if my dealer is right, and if this is abnormal, is there a chance I can work with toyota for some deal? After all, it's 3 years old only.
I have v6 2002 with only 3000 miles,one of the first ones in Mexico,and it has rattles on the back seat, it seems,and at the drivers door or seat belt compartment,I'm surprice this,I owned a accord 97 assambled in Mexico drove for a 100.000miles with no problems and 0 noises,how come this U.S car comes with noises?I'll be taking the car to the dealer and see if they can fix it. In the other hand it`s a pretty nice car,leather upholstery,good power, pretty good overal.I appreciate any suggestion on this nosy matter
I have the US Customer Service number for Toyota. Please call them with your complaints about rattles in your 2002 Camry or any other model. It is 1-800-331-4331 - You can file a complaint if your dealer is not able to resolve the problem or denies there is a problem. Please take the few minutes it takes to do this. You will be helping all of us who purchased the Toyota Camry based on its reputation for quality.
GREAT BOARD. Happy to say the few problems I have had with my 96 4c have been minor.
my antenna motor does not shut off at the end of the "extend" cycle, producing a loud grinding noise. it used to do it only on 95F or hotter days, now it does it all the time. i have disconnected the motor power source with the antenna extended (for reception) to save the gear/mast insert, but would like to fix it. anyone have any ideas? thanks.
I'm starting to think the dealership is ripping you off. It looks like they are creating more problems so you can return for business.
I'd look into the BBB and other forms of action.
Rear tie rod? B.S. Camrys are front wheel drive (except for the 88-91 All-trac)...there is a front tie rod...but not a rear tie rod.
The brake light idiot light is triggered by the parking light (like you said) or low brake fluid. If you heard squeaking while braking...it's probably time for new pads (and possibly rotors).
I'd go for a second opinion, because I don't really trust the dealership.
Did they change the timing belt with the water pump?
That's my concern. I'm afraid my dealer just want to bring me back for service again and again.
what is timing belt for? I'm not sure if they changed timing belt with water bump. They only told me they changed water pump for me. I'll check with them.
btw, they told me the reason my car can't start up is because "idle air control model??" I'm not so sure what it is. But they said this part doesn't work properly, need to be replaced. And they charge me $400 to replace it(including labor).
They said my front pads 60% worn. Is it time to replace it?
I don't know why they said left rear rod. They showed me the left rear tire worn quite a lot. Normally how frequently do you replace your tires? Average 4-5 years? or no need at all for whole life? I was told my camry's original tire is General Tire. Is it right? I thought original tire should be Mechelin. Where can I find the tire brand?
Is there a number I can reach Toyota? Just want to verify all these since my car is only 3 years old.
I don't really trust dealership too. The problem is I don't know how to fix car myself since I'm not a mechanician. who else I can trust? Other small garages? Where did you normally bring your car to?
the other plug is located down low on the engine block, usually on the driver's side - it will be impossible to get, most likely, unless you go from underneath the car.
If you need to know the exact location, any Chilton's repair manual or Haynes will show you, or you could even get the official (expensive) Toyota repair manual.
2014 Mini Cooper (stick shift of course), 2016 Camry hybrid, 2009 Outback Sport 5-spd (keeping the stick alive)
throttle "tip-in" varies a lot from car to car - in some (often sporty models) it is very abrupt, more so than is desirable oftentimes. In a car like the camry, it is adjusted the opposite way - lots of accelerator travel before the throttle opens, which it then does gradually, so that the car rolls away from stop lights smoothly, rather than abruptly or jerkily.
Plus, I am not sure, but I THINK the throttle linkage in the new camry is electronic, meaning the pedal you are pushing is not even pulling open the throttle any more, it is just telling a computer how much to open it.
2014 Mini Cooper (stick shift of course), 2016 Camry hybrid, 2009 Outback Sport 5-spd (keeping the stick alive)
it sounds like you are possibly getting taken for a ride by a bad dealership.
The idle air control module is probably still covered by warranty, either under emissions warranty or under powertrain warranty - if I were you I would check this out. But I would get a second opinion from a second dealership too. Plus, if this was the original cause of the problem, they should give you a refund for your new battery.
Rear tire wear could be caused by bad suspension, 43K is early for that to go but it is possible.
Question is, how much care has this car had in the first three years? Has it had maintenance, and has it been driven hard? I am surprised to hear of a leaking water pump at this age.
Brakes at 60% are not an indication that they need to be replaced, and that would not normally cause the brake light ot be on. You can check the brake fluid reservoir for yourself - it is a little clear reservoir next to the firewall under the hood, right in front of the driver, and it has a black cover that says DOT 3, or something like that. If the fluid level is below the "min" line, you should add some. If this does not make the light turn off and stay off, there is a problem in the brake system, and you should get someone reputable to find it. BUT make sure your hand brake is completely off - sometimes the sensor gets out of adjustment - try wiggling the hand brake around a little bit.
The timing belt is the one inside the engine that turns the valvetrain, so it is very important to make the car run. In this car you would normally replace it every 60-90K miles. (I would do it at 90K, some people do it at 60K for peace of mind). If it breaks, the engine will stop running, but no damage will occur, you will just have to have it towed and the belt replaced.
Not sure if that got it all - bottom line: GET A SECOND OPINION. It sounds like they are taking you for a ride.
2014 Mini Cooper (stick shift of course), 2016 Camry hybrid, 2009 Outback Sport 5-spd (keeping the stick alive)
the fuel gage sending unit (located at the fuel tank, beneath the rear seats) may be on the screwed up side. I remember our old 84 Corollas had the same exact problem.
The car followed maintenance schdule, had major maintenance at 10k, 15k, 30k. oil change every 4k-5k.
The car just passed 3 years(36k)warranty. It's still under 5 years(60k) warranty, which only covers for engine related problem. My dealer told me "idle air control module" isn't counted. I'll call toyota to double check.
Too later, I agreed to change "idle air control module" yesterday since I had no idea what it is and I was so eagering to get my car back so that I can drive to work today. Just called my dealer, they told me they are still working on the car. I have to stay home one more day. Hate it! I'll see another dealer for the rest problems.
Confirmed, dealer did replace both water pump and timing belt. So I no need to worry about timing belt at least another 60k, right?
Thanks for the clarification. You are right. They topped off fluid in master cylinder cleaned and adjusted rear brakes. The brake light is off now. Without your clarification, I didn't realize this fixed the problem. I thought it was normal maintenance. When they talked to me, they said light on means brake needs to be replaced. Now I started to hear "ga-zi.."noise from rear brake when the car stops. they just never let problem go.
We had a road test yesterday since I compained some funny noise from engine. Dealer told me again it's due to tires. They strongly recommend to fix rear left rod, and replace all four tires. As 8u6hfd said, camry doesn't have rear tire rod, I'll ask them.
My car had two small accidents, the first time was body work only, the second time front brake and one part of air condition were replaced. Could these explain why my car had water pump problem?
Again, thanks a lot! This forum is really GREAT! Love it!
I don't think that you are alone. I have a silimar creak (as if two componenents are rubbing together) when I drive. My car is only 600 miles old so I haven't done anything yet. It's pretty soft right now also. I have to keep my ears open without the radio on to even hear it. Let me know if you get any more information.
Other people are complaining about rattles, so you can search for those on the boards also. Good luck.
Post comments in the rattles area please. There is a definite pattern of rattles behind the radio and in the driver/passenger door pillar area. I have also noticed that my sunglasses at times rattle in the overhead case so check this out! A little piece of sponge stopped my smallish glasses from bouncing around...if only there was a solution this simple to the door pillar issue!
Nothing happening on the other boards,figured I'd try here. Any ideas on an occacional starting problem on a 99 LE 4 cyl with 104k miles? Only happens first in the am,or after sitting for several hours. Stalls out immediately after start up. If I keep pressure on gas for about a minute, it then idles fine. No other problems,happens about once or twice a month. The car is kept up well on the maintenance schedule.
Hi, has anyone out there have the ISC Valve problem with your toyota? i got two 1999 Toyota camry which both have this problem. the 99 CE model need to go back to the dealer for 4 times in one year to get it fixed.... Now today, the other 99 LE camry (with 26,000 mileage on it)i have can't be started..so i have to tow it to the dealer..and they told me it is that stupid ISC valve again!!! they are asking for $370 for this piece of valve...could someone tell me what is that? and what cause it to go wrong? oh ...shall this thing be under that Powertrain warranty?? my 3 yr/36,000 warranty just expired last month..so unfortunate! can i negotiate this problem with toyota? to me .....after have this problems for both of my 99 camry...i m starting to feel that it is the manufacture defect on the car itself.. anyone got this problem too?? the symptom for this defect are... 1) car cant be started 2) even if i got it to start, it would run rough 2) or stall please help!!
I own a pre-owned Solera and for the first yr it was fine. However for the past 6 months I have had a constant problem with the car stalling in traffic. At first the engine light would not go on and, as it was not registering a "code", the dealer could not find a problem. The engine light finally went on and the dealer first changed the IAC valve and then (when it happened again) the computer. The engine light just went on again and the dealer tried to tell me that it doesn't mean the car will stall. I am bringing it back but it sounds like they are at a loss at what is wrong. Needless to say I want to get rid of it and am considering the used car lemon law in NY. Anyone have any insight or experiences of this sort?
My friend has recently bought this car. One seatbelt will not retract and one will not extend. It was in an accident that activated the airbags. Do you think it is mechanical or electrical? Or does it have anything to do with the airbags being activated? Or is it a known problem?
I own a 96 4 cyl that I believe is designed very similar. You should still be able to get a Haynes manual for this car which will give you mostly accurate details. The latest I could find was a 95 but it's virtually the same car in 96. The 97s changed dramatically, I think so I'm not familiar with anything newer than 96.
On my car you do have to change the diff. fluid separately and it's a pain to get to the plug/fill hole (up behind the trans/engine and out of sight - might even need an Allen wrench). I refilled mine using a small squirt bottle. If I recall correctly the manual says to refill to just below the fill hole. Hope that helps.
Wondered if any other 2003 Camry owners have this problem. The tranny hangs in 2nd gear for the first 2 or 3 miles after a "cold" start (1st drive of the day). Tranny shifts OK after that. Local Toyota Service Tech stated something about the o2 sensor and having to warm the vehicle before driving. Tried that warming for two minutes before driving - did not make a dif. Any comments before I head back to the service department?
Yes, yes, the new camry is not supposed to shift out of second or third until the car has warmed up, it is to keep the revs up so that it will warm up quicker. I am not sure if it is coolant temperature or exhaust gas temp that triggers shifting to higher gears, though. I thought it was coolant temp, which has to be a good margin over the bottom line on the gauge.
I appreciate the philosophy at work here, BUT since my car has the same thing going on, and I live close to the freeway, in the mornings I have to take the service road that parallels the freeway to the next entrance, because if I get on right away, the engine revs go up to 4-5K rpm, and I don't want to do that to it when it is stone cold!
2014 Mini Cooper (stick shift of course), 2016 Camry hybrid, 2009 Outback Sport 5-spd (keeping the stick alive)
Thanks Guys! This is my first new auto in 12 years so I'm a tad behind the "new stuff" curve. Also live next to highway and need to pre-warm about 5 mins prior departure - water temp just off the cold line does it. Appreciate your comments.
Anyone else having brake problems? 3000 miles, brake pedal floats down at long stop light. Dealship says no problem with brakes.I checked the gov. web site: Brake problems reported there. www.nhtsa.dot.gov
This is my first post to this group. I'm a single mom wanting to buy a good reliable, long lasting car for my 17 year old daughter. I had her do some research on the top 10 best used cars. Looks like the Toyota Camry, year 95 or 96 was rated the highest. I have found some for sale, and I'm really thinking a v-6 is the way to go. (More power for getting on freeway, engine doesn't run as hard as a 4 cylinder... etc.)
I'm thinking the gas mileage isn't too much less than a 4 cyl.???
A couple of terms I have run across is: electonic overdrive.. is this a good thing? or something that may just end up being a headache?
The other thing I don't know about, but hear a lot of, is the timing belt... mostly I've seen that the timing belt has been replaced -(and mostly I see this on used Honda ads...)
Is this something of a problem for a Toyota Camry?
Any advise would be greatly appreciated. I want to buy a good car for her and want to spend my money wisely...
I'm about at wits end and would appreciate any advice that could help me. I'm getting an annoying squeak that sounds as if its brake related. Squeak is evident when starting slowly from a stop position or when travelling at very slow speeds and slightly turning the wheel. To remedy this problem I just installed new brake pads and cleaned up the rotors as well as inspecting rear emergency brake system. No luck. I consider myself pretty handy but this noise is, forgive the pun, "driving" me crazy. It's a CE V6, and otherwise has been a problem free car.
Have a 2002 Camry Le, recently dicovered bad smell ( bad egg smell) coming from exhaust after driving the car for awhile with the car completely warm up.( I only have 900 miles on my car ), Is it something wrong with the oxygen sensor, I also hear very tiny sound , like engine knocking, is it caused by the same sensor. Should I just drive the car for a little longer and see. or should I just bring it back to the dealer?....Thanks
has bad smells from their new camrys! Hmmm...many posts here have said the same thing, but I think the problem kind of goes away if you wait a little longer, although 900 miles is a lot. Unless you already know your dealer and they have a good service department, it would probably serve you well to wait another few hundred miles before you do anything. Hang in there!
sabretooth: have you checked the wheel bearings? Are you sure the squeak now is not just the new pads seating to the rotors?
kathy: there is no maintenance difference between the 4 and 6 cylinder engines. The only maintenance cost difference is two more spark plugs to buy every 60K miles. Timing belts are at 90K on these cars, and one thing that highly recommends the 6-cyl over the 4 is that all the 6-cylinders have rear disc brakes, which makes a lot of difference in braking feel and in wear - some people including friends of mine that had 4-cylinders consider the brakes to be weak on those cars.
By the way, electronic overdrive has been on all automatic Toyotas now for quite some time - I wouldn't worry about that.
2014 Mini Cooper (stick shift of course), 2016 Camry hybrid, 2009 Outback Sport 5-spd (keeping the stick alive)
This is common in other makes as well. It has to do with the cataletic converter. It goes away after 2000-10000 miles on the car. (10000 miles for SAABS).
The 1mZ-FE costs more to have its timing belt replaced and do the valve clearance adjustment, spark plug changes are more expensive, labor-wise (unless you DIY)...it adds you quickly to be more expensive to maintain.
Though premium fuel is recommended for the best performance in the V6, a lot of people go with regular.
just as an example, I canvassed three local Toyota dealerships. Prices ranged from $399 to $499 plus spark plug cost if needed, for the 60K service. In all cases, the 4-cyl and the 6-cyl service were exactly the same price, although for the 6-cyl, you would have to pay for two more spark plugs, as I noted above.
I then asked about timing belt replacement, and I have to agree with you here: timing belt replacement cost between $20 and $40 more for the V-6 than the 4-cyl. So, once or perhaps twice in the life of the car you will have to pay $20-40 more to maintain it. A very negligible cost.
I then asked about valve adjustment, and was told at two of the three that this is highly uncommon to have to perform on these cars, and they usually go by the sound of the engine, whether or not it is necessary. If it is, they charge the same for 4-cyl or 6-cyl. The third place just quoted me a price of $150 regardlessof 4-cyl or 6-cyl.
I have known several people with V-6 camrys, none of them uses premium, and none have appeared to suffer for it. The manual says regular is fine, although Toyota officially recommends premium for best performance.
2014 Mini Cooper (stick shift of course), 2016 Camry hybrid, 2009 Outback Sport 5-spd (keeping the stick alive)
Comments
The problem with the truck engines was the heads and head gaskets - I don't think other Toyota V-6's that shared the block series had the same problems.
2014 Mini Cooper (stick shift of course), 2016 Camry hybrid, 2009 Outback Sport 5-spd (keeping the stick alive)
92-93: 3VZ-FE
94+: went to aluminum block, 1MZ-FE
the 3VZ-E, was the engine notorius for blowing head gaskets.
When starting from stopped position, I feel as though I need to really step on the gas pedal to get the car moving... That is, the engine doesn't seem very sensitive. And, say, if I really step on it, there's a moment of pause before the engine responds. I remember my previous vehicles a bit more responsive for some reason.
So, what do y'all think? Should I bring it over to the dealership and have it looked at? Or am I just a nit-picking dork? Thanks for your responses in advance.
then I started to notice the "brake light" is on/off when I was driving although my hand brake is off. and I heard some funny noise from engine. I brought car back to dealer again one week later and told them what I felt and ask them if it was something related to what they did to fix the plastic base last time. They checked and told me it was water pump leakage, water pump needs to be replaced. the "Brake light on" is because the front brake need to be replaced. and engine noise is because of rear left tire rod bend . both rod and limen need to be replaced. since my car is 43k miles. I decided to fix water pump this time, and do all the rest job at 45k maintanence. The next day, I can't even start my car. Called AAA to tow my car to dealer. It was discovered due to out of battery. Dealer checked the car thoroughly and said it was all set. One week later, which is last Friday, I can't start car again. Called AAA, they recharged battery by jump cables and started car. I drove it to my dealer and ask them to have it checked since I never had battary problem before and suddenly this happened twice in one month. They call me back today said my car starting up part(don't know what's the part name yet) doesn't work properly, need to be replace. and due to rear left tie rod bend, the rear left tire needs to be replaced. futhermore, dealer suggested to replace all four tires this time.
Just wonder is it normal for a three years*(43k miles) camry? How is my dealer, are they saying the truth? To me I felt the car started with a minor issue,which is "something hangging at front wheel", and became major problem, which is "can't started car at all".
Appreciated for any advice.
Btw, if my dealer is right, and if this is abnormal, is there a chance I can work with toyota for some deal? After all, it's 3 years old only.
Please take the few minutes it takes to do this. You will be helping all of us who purchased the Toyota Camry based on its reputation for quality.
my antenna motor does not shut off at the end of the "extend" cycle, producing a loud grinding noise. it used to do it only on 95F or hotter days, now it does it all the time. i have disconnected the motor power source with the antenna extended (for reception) to save the gear/mast insert, but would like to fix it. anyone have any ideas? thanks.
I'd look into the BBB and other forms of action.
Rear tie rod? B.S. Camrys are front wheel drive (except for the 88-91 All-trac)...there is a front tie rod...but not a rear tie rod.
The brake light idiot light is triggered by the parking light (like you said) or low brake fluid. If you heard squeaking while braking...it's probably time for new pads (and possibly rotors).
I'd go for a second opinion, because I don't really trust the dealership.
Did they change the timing belt with the water pump?
what is timing belt for? I'm not sure if they changed timing belt with water bump. They only told me they changed water pump for me. I'll check with them.
btw, they told me the reason my car can't start up is because "idle air control model??" I'm not so sure what it is. But they said this part doesn't work properly, need to be replaced. And they charge me $400 to replace it(including labor).
They said my front pads 60% worn. Is it time to replace it?
I don't know why they said left rear rod. They showed me the left rear tire worn quite a lot. Normally how frequently do you replace your tires? Average 4-5 years? or no need at all for whole life? I was told my camry's original tire is General Tire. Is it right? I thought original tire should be Mechelin. Where can I find the tire brand?
Is there a number I can reach Toyota? Just want to verify all these since my car is only 3 years old.
I don't really trust dealership too. The problem is I don't know how to fix car myself since I'm not a mechanician. who else I can trust? Other small garages? Where did you normally bring your car to?
Thanks!
If you need to know the exact location, any Chilton's repair manual or Haynes will show you, or you could even get the official (expensive) Toyota repair manual.
2014 Mini Cooper (stick shift of course), 2016 Camry hybrid, 2009 Outback Sport 5-spd (keeping the stick alive)
Plus, I am not sure, but I THINK the throttle linkage in the new camry is electronic, meaning the pedal you are pushing is not even pulling open the throttle any more, it is just telling a computer how much to open it.
2014 Mini Cooper (stick shift of course), 2016 Camry hybrid, 2009 Outback Sport 5-spd (keeping the stick alive)
The idle air control module is probably still covered by warranty, either under emissions warranty or under powertrain warranty - if I were you I would check this out. But I would get a second opinion from a second dealership too. Plus, if this was the original cause of the problem, they should give you a refund for your new battery.
Rear tire wear could be caused by bad suspension, 43K is early for that to go but it is possible.
Question is, how much care has this car had in the first three years? Has it had maintenance, and has it been driven hard? I am surprised to hear of a leaking water pump at this age.
Brakes at 60% are not an indication that they need to be replaced, and that would not normally cause the brake light ot be on. You can check the brake fluid reservoir for yourself - it is a little clear reservoir next to the firewall under the hood, right in front of the driver, and it has a black cover that says DOT 3, or something like that. If the fluid level is below the "min" line, you should add some. If this does not make the light turn off and stay off, there is a problem in the brake system, and you should get someone reputable to find it. BUT make sure your hand brake is completely off - sometimes the sensor gets out of adjustment - try wiggling the hand brake around a little bit.
The timing belt is the one inside the engine that turns the valvetrain, so it is very important to make the car run. In this car you would normally replace it every 60-90K miles. (I would do it at 90K, some people do it at 60K for peace of mind). If it breaks, the engine will stop running, but no damage will occur, you will just have to have it towed and the belt replaced.
Not sure if that got it all - bottom line: GET A SECOND OPINION. It sounds like they are taking you for a ride.
2014 Mini Cooper (stick shift of course), 2016 Camry hybrid, 2009 Outback Sport 5-spd (keeping the stick alive)
The car just passed 3 years(36k)warranty. It's still under 5 years(60k) warranty, which only covers for engine related problem. My dealer told me "idle air control module" isn't counted. I'll call toyota to double check.
Too later, I agreed to change "idle air control module" yesterday since I had no idea what it is and I was so eagering to get my car back so that I can drive to work today. Just called my dealer, they told me they are still working on the car. I have to stay home one more day. Hate it! I'll see another dealer for the rest problems.
Confirmed, dealer did replace both water pump and timing belt. So I no need to worry about timing belt at least another 60k, right?
Thanks for the clarification. You are right. They topped off fluid in master cylinder cleaned and adjusted rear brakes. The brake light is off now. Without your clarification, I didn't realize this fixed the problem. I thought it was normal maintenance. When they talked to me, they said light on means brake needs to be replaced. Now I started to hear "ga-zi.."noise from rear brake when the car stops. they just never let problem go.
We had a road test yesterday since I compained some funny noise from engine. Dealer told me again it's due to tires. They strongly recommend to fix rear left rod, and replace all four tires. As 8u6hfd said, camry doesn't have rear tire rod, I'll ask them.
My car had two small accidents, the first time was body work only, the second time front brake and one part of air condition were replaced. Could these explain why my car had water pump problem?
Again, thanks a lot! This forum is really GREAT! Love it!
Tires? Don't know without actually being there.
Other people are complaining about rattles, so you can search for those on the boards also. Good luck.
i got two 1999 Toyota camry which both have this problem. the 99 CE model need to go back to the dealer for 4 times in one year to get it fixed....
Now today, the other 99 LE camry (with 26,000 mileage on it)i have can't be started..so i have to tow it to the dealer..and they told me it is that stupid ISC valve again!!!
they are asking for $370 for this piece of valve...could someone tell me what is that? and what cause it to go wrong? oh ...shall this thing be under that Powertrain warranty??
my 3 yr/36,000 warranty just expired last month..so unfortunate!
can i negotiate this problem with toyota?
to me .....after have this problems for both of my 99 camry...i m starting to feel that it is the manufacture defect on the car itself..
anyone got this problem too??
the symptom for this defect are...
1) car cant be started
2) even if i got it to start, it would run rough
2) or stall
please help!!
1. An abnormal "whine/hum" when engaging the clutch.
2. A hesitation in the motor around 3000 RPM, only while accelerating.
3. A ticking while idling.
Any thoughts as to what might be the causes? Thanks!
Several people have mentioned the hesitation around 3000 rpm - perhaps this is something the dealer has seen before.
2014 Mini Cooper (stick shift of course), 2016 Camry hybrid, 2009 Outback Sport 5-spd (keeping the stick alive)
2000 camry seems to just unscrew the trans plug.
Yet the 91 seems to have differenial along with
trans.
How do you change differential fluid on 91.
seems to have to use syringe to fill the
differential component, any idea ???
On my car you do have to change the diff. fluid separately and it's a pain to get to the plug/fill hole (up behind the trans/engine and out of sight - might even need an Allen wrench). I refilled mine using a small squirt bottle. If I recall correctly the manual says to refill to just below the fill hole. Hope that helps.
have to take the cover off,to take the nut off of
differential compartment???
43K summary
Gas consumed: 1828.434 Gallons
Cost of Gas: $2910.56
Average Economy: 23.55 MPG
Best: 34.3 MPG
Worst: 16.8 MPG
Gas Cost per mile: 6.66 cents
Maintenance Cost: $2388.28
Maintenance Cost per mile: 5.5 cents
Miles Covered: 43,670
Running Cost (Gas + Maintenance): $5298.84
Running Cost per mile: 12.13 cents
Bought in November 1999 for $27,538.
Sold in October 2002 for $16,700.
Depreciation: $10,838
Depreciation per mile: 24.8 cents
Direct Cost of Ownership: 36.93 cents per mile
Insurance approx. $600 per year for 3 years = $1800
Insurance per mile: 4.12 cents
Total Cost of Ownership: 41.05 cents per mile
I appreciate the philosophy at work here, BUT since my car has the same thing going on, and I live close to the freeway, in the mornings I have to take the service road that parallels the freeway to the next entrance, because if I get on right away, the engine revs go up to 4-5K rpm, and I don't want to do that to it when it is stone cold!
2014 Mini Cooper (stick shift of course), 2016 Camry hybrid, 2009 Outback Sport 5-spd (keeping the stick alive)
www.nhtsa.dot.gov
I'm thinking the gas mileage isn't too much less than a 4 cyl.???
A couple of terms I have run across is: electonic overdrive.. is this a good thing? or something that may just end up being a headache?
The other thing I don't know about, but hear a lot of, is the timing belt... mostly I've seen that the timing belt has been replaced -(and mostly I see this on used Honda ads...)
Is this something of a problem for a Toyota Camry?
Any advise would be greatly appreciated. I want to buy a good car for her and want to spend my money wisely...
Thanks
Kathy
To remedy this problem I just installed new brake pads and cleaned up the rotors as well as inspecting rear emergency brake system. No luck.
I consider myself pretty handy but this noise is, forgive the pun, "driving" me crazy.
It's a CE V6, and otherwise has been a problem free car.
Maintenance is easier and cheaper on the 4 cylinder as well.
Timing belts, the engines are non-interference, so no worries about ruining an engine if the timing belt snaps.
Electronic overdrive, nothing to worry it's just 4th gear to get better fuel economy.
Make sure all the maintenance is up to date.
sabretooth: have you checked the wheel bearings? Are you sure the squeak now is not just the new pads seating to the rotors?
kathy: there is no maintenance difference between the 4 and 6 cylinder engines. The only maintenance cost difference is two more spark plugs to buy every 60K miles.
Timing belts are at 90K on these cars, and one thing that highly recommends the 6-cyl over the 4 is that all the 6-cylinders have rear disc brakes, which makes a lot of difference in braking feel and in wear - some people including friends of mine that had 4-cylinders consider the brakes to be weak on those cars.
By the way, electronic overdrive has been on all automatic Toyotas now for quite some time - I wouldn't worry about that.
2014 Mini Cooper (stick shift of course), 2016 Camry hybrid, 2009 Outback Sport 5-spd (keeping the stick alive)
has this new tsb really fixed the problem or should i move on to a 2003? i like the 2002 prices right now
Though premium fuel is recommended for the best performance in the V6, a lot of people go with regular.
I then asked about timing belt replacement, and I have to agree with you here: timing belt replacement cost between $20 and $40 more for the V-6 than the 4-cyl. So, once or perhaps twice in the life of the car you will have to pay $20-40 more to maintain it. A very negligible cost.
I then asked about valve adjustment, and was told at two of the three that this is highly uncommon to have to perform on these cars, and they usually go by the sound of the engine, whether or not it is necessary. If it is, they charge the same for 4-cyl or 6-cyl. The third place just quoted me a price of $150 regardlessof 4-cyl or 6-cyl.
I have known several people with V-6 camrys, none of them uses premium, and none have appeared to suffer for it. The manual says regular is fine, although Toyota officially recommends premium for best performance.
2014 Mini Cooper (stick shift of course), 2016 Camry hybrid, 2009 Outback Sport 5-spd (keeping the stick alive)