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Toyota Camry: Problems & Solutions



  • anonymanonym Posts: 11
    I have a 93 camry and just found out I have a seal leak in my a/c compressor. Mechanic recommends replacing compressor, clutch and receiver drier for $800. I know someone who can put a junk yard compressor in for 175 + 120 for freon. Is it too much of a risk to buy a junk yard compressor? Does the camry have a history of problems with seal leaks on the compressor? Im just afraid that I would end up with another compressor with seal problems. What should I do, I only plan on keeping the car for 2 years at the most.
  • c0kec0ke Posts: 44
    are the only concern here for now. Guess we'll have to see where this goes at the next oil change.

    At least it's on record in their computer. You might want to take this up with your dealer as well. Of course getting told that "... we've never seen this before in a 2002 ..." makes you wonder.

    Hopefully enough people will take this to their dealer and report it so that eventually there will be some action on it.

    If the problem doesn't get resolved by the dealer then I most likely will repair it myself.

    If you speak with the dealer about it please post back and let us know what sort of answer you get from them.
  • Mr_ShiftrightMr_Shiftright Sonoma, CaliforniaPosts: 64,490
    anonym--if your compressor didn't "eat it", that is, self-destruct internally, I myself would take the risk on a used compressor + freon (I actually just did this on my Benz) but I made sure the mechanic carefully inspected the a/c lines for any debris and also install new hose o-rings.

    Any reputable wrecking yard with warranty the a/c compressor.
  • I have some questions. When they do a valve seal job, does that disturb the egr valve. I had the Camry sludge/valve seal problem fixed and 300 miles later they say it needs a egr valve because of a check engine light. Is this just a coincidence ? When I searched the board there was nothing about Camry egr valves. The car has 71000 miles and is a 1997 and is in Maryland so I don't think the emmissions warrenty will pay. The dealer says the Toyota Extra Care won't pay either but there is nothing about the EGR valve in the policy. Extra Care is extended warranty.
  • My car was "fixed". I had it for one hour and the check engine light came on again. Is this a wrong diagnosis or did they just not do anything.It cost 400 and I only work part time because of a medical condition. What do I do if they ask for more money ? I paid them to fix the correct part and then "fixed " something that may not have even been broken.I even have an extended warranty.
  • 8u6hfd8u6hfd Posts: 1,391
    unclebrenda Take it back right away, because they didn't fix it. You shouldn't pay an extra dime because they did not fix the problem right the first time. Insist on the dealership's Master Technician to work on it.

    logitech1 A tune-up will make a huge difference. Don't forget to change the distributor cap & rotor, and spark plug wires. While you're at it, rotate the tires, check for correct tire pressures, check or replace the air filter, etc....
  • logitech1logitech1 Posts: 32
    I found 3, where are the rest 3 located? can this be done by myself?
  • jodar96jodar96 Posts: 400
    I lost the letter "Y" off CAMRY on trunk lid of my 96 Camry at carwash. The carwash place is more than happy to pay for the piece but not it costs $500 by the time it is done!

    I tried I can't get the letter alone or the entire word. I have to buy the entire trunk lid lower "UNPAINTED" plastic piece with letters attached, at$230 and have it painted and gold plate the letters!!!!

    Does anyone know a place that carries this type of stuff. It is next to impossible to find this item in local junk yards.

    It is outrageous that Toyota does not carry the letters or the entire word kit. If I have no luck, I may take out the rest of the letters, wax plastic piece, and forget about the gold plated word.
  • 8u6hfd8u6hfd Posts: 1,391
    The rear plugs is underneath the intake plenum (that big aluminum thing).

    Remove the air hose at the throttle body and remove the airbox top to make it easier.

    You can access 2 of the plugs from the driver's side. If you can't squeeze your arm in, use some universal joints.

    The last one to the passenger side, you reach in and do it.

    At the end, it takes a good deal of cursing and end up with scratches on your arm.

    Have fun.
  • camry_99camry_99 Posts: 2
    I have two questions, or problems I guess. Firstly I replaced my stock 14x6 wheels with a set of 17 x 7.5 wheels. They are perfectly aligned and balanced, with no problems, I JUST replaced the brakes slightly over 200 miles ago, both front rotors and pads, and adjusted rear drums and drum shoes. The ABS light was coming on prior to doing the replacement, it then came on one time afterwards and since than it has ceased to come on. It never came on before replacing my stock wheels. from the tip of the tire to the tip of the tire of my old wheels..the measurements are exact on my new wheels. IS there any reason for the ABS light to still be going off? My second question is with regards to a fuel injector system and startup. Ocassionally when I start my car it will start, then the rpm needle will drop to about 100 rpm..shudder up and down..and if I rev the engine it will be fine..if I don't the car turns off sometimes...could this be a fuel injector problem or a starter problem? Any help is greatly appreciated. If the engine type makes a difference I have a 4cyl with an intake system(replaced stock airbox) and pulley kit(replaced stock crank) ...Would this affect startup at all? Thanks!

    p.s. I was also told by the toyota tech who last serviced my brakes that the whole odometer is thrown off now...but what I don't understand is the fact that I went with a low profile tire with no difference from tip of the tire to tip of the tire from stock...thanks.
  • 8u6hfd8u6hfd Posts: 1,391
    wheels: What tire size are you currently running?

    Starting problem: not sure, but it's not a starter problem, nor the fuel injectors. Try putting the stock airbox back on (to rule out the intake). I'd probably be looking at the cold start circuits.
  • logitech1logitech1 Posts: 32

    BTW, what's your rpm when you stay on 70 mph (110 KM/h)? mine is about 2600, is it normal?

  • armtdmarmtdm Posts: 2,057
    My 92 V6 is around 3000 RPM at 70 which is why the mpg is not so great, best I have ever gotten was 27 mpg. My 2000 Buick V6 at 70 mph (240 hp) is at 2000 rpms at 70 and gets just over 30 mpg on the highway. Obviously my Camry overdrive is not the greatest for mileage
  • 8u6hfd8u6hfd Posts: 1,391
    My old Camry, (88 V6, 5-speed) did 70 mph around 3200 rpm.

    yours sounds normal
  • camry_99camry_99 Posts: 2
    Tires are 215/45/17 they are a dead on match to the old hubs with tires inflated..I stood it next to the car today and they are right on identical.
    I took off the intake today and put the airbox back in...starter problem still exists, I know it isn't the pulley kit because it started doing this recently (last two months) and the pulleys have been on for nearly two years, the intake is nearing a year...what else could it be? bad spark plugs? bad gas? dealership has been walking around with their thumbs up their you-know-whats saying they don't know what the problem do you sell a car and NOT KNOW WHATS WRONG WHEN IT NEEDS TO BE REPAIRED?...any more advice much appreciated..Thanks!
  • logitech1logitech1 Posts: 32
    thanks, guys, seems my rpm is ok. I though japan cars are better on gas... I was wrong, my friend's 90 buick, does 1800 rpm at 70 mph. My old accord (4 cyl), did 3000 rpm at 70 rpm, however, it was a gas saver, 15 kms per liter (35 MPG?)...I miss it! BTW, what's included in a engine tune up? I want to save some money on gas.
  • I have a '96 Camry, LE, 4 Cyl, with 90,000 miles on it. A few weeks ago, I noticed that the car would run fine up to around 50mph and then if I wanted to go faster, it seemed as if it was running hard (as if it did not want to got hat fast). RPM's would also get in the 3000+ range. Once I would get to the 70 MPH speed, RPM would eventually get back down to normal 2000 range. I had an oil change done at local Toyota dealer 2-3 weeks ago and told him to check out the 'shifting' issue. He said that he checked out and that his people did not notice anything wrong with the car. One week after the oil change, the check engine light came on. I took it to the dealer again and this time he told me that I need a new 'Shift Solenoid' at a cost of around $250 ($100 for part, $110 for labor and another $40 to diagnose the problem?). I told him I would think about it and then picked up the car with the 'check engine' light still on. 5 days ago the 'check engine' light disappeared and so did the high RPM issue. Neither has come back since. However, yesterday morning when I got off the expressway, the car seemed to hesitate at lower speeds and almost started sputtering when I pulled into the driveway at work.

    Any idea as to what's going on here? Do I need to get it checked out by another mechanic? We only have one Toyota dealer in town but I can take it to another shop. If the shift solenoid needs replacing, can I buy it anywhere or is it a 'dealer' part? Can I replace it myself?

    Also, when does the timing belt absolutely needs to be replaced? How much do they cost to get replaced?

    Any advise is highly appreciated - Thanks.
  • 8u6hfd8u6hfd Posts: 1,391
    For the OE 195/70r14 tires going to 215/45 r17, yep they are an exact match in overall diameter (slight neglegible difference), so the tech was giving you a boat full of BS

    The stalling, one of the other things I can think of is the Manifold Air Pressure (MAP) sensor. Check that for correct operation, along with the Intake Air Temperature (IAT) sensor.
  • mtdavis0mtdavis0 Posts: 10
    hi, first time post here.

    i'm about to purchase a 93 camry le. Whats the best suggestion for cleaning up the cloth upholstery myself.( previous driver also was a smoker)

  • jsamplesjsamples Posts: 2
    Re: 2002 Toyota Camry LE V6, automatic. This car has "cold shift shock" (a term used by the factory rep) when starting the car cold in the morning. The car does fine in backing out of the garage, but when you drop it into "Drive", the car jumps forward very hard. Beware, Driver, who does not have the brake on! I've had the car in, I've talked to Toyota, I've gone through mediation. Toyota says my car does not have a problem, is performing as designed, and there is nothing to fix. The car is still under warranty. I've started up cars on the dealer lot, I've stopped people with the same car, I've driven friends' cars- no other 2002 Camry appears to do this. This is a safety issue, also, as well as what it is doing to my transmission. Does anyone out there have this same problem? Please let me hear from you, if you do. Otherwise, I have a "lemon".
  • 8u6hfd8u6hfd Posts: 1,391
    Febreeze helps a lot
  • armtdmarmtdm Posts: 2,057
    Purchased at any auto parts store, the kind with the brush at the end so you spray, rub it in with the brush and wipe it off. Works great on indoor carpet stainds too

    Several different brands, all seem to work fine
  • raytoy44raytoy44 Posts: 10
    I have this too on a toyota camry 2002. It is always jumpy on the first shift to DRIVE even if it is not cold out.
    I also had the smell someone talked about, That stopped after a few weeks.

    I also have a front seat that shifts 1/4 inch that I read someone else has.

    AND the engine is weak and knocks on small hills.

    CAMRY 2002 is now like a common regular car, not a mini-Lexus.
  • raytoy44raytoy44 Posts: 10
    my 2002 CAMRY has many problems (I have seen others comment on most of these before me):
    --on shift when cold, it jumps into DRIVE,
    --engine knocks up hills and seems weak,
    --seat moves back on acceleration,
    --there was a smell for a few weeks,
    --trunk liner falls down--glue is poor.

    SHOULD I use OVERDRIVE OFF for local driving for more power? other wise it is ON for highway driving as the default.

    I had 3 prior new Toyotas since 1979. This one is crap in comparision. Sorry I bought it.
  • rocky5656rocky5656 Posts: 34
    My 89 Camry with V6 does about 2600 rpm at 110 km/h. with the stock 195/60 15 tires. At this speed I usually get about 32 mpg. Highest I ever got was about 35 while keeping under 100 km/h.
    Next tires I need I'm going up to 195/65 15 (little taller tire, less rpm at same speed, engine has lots of torque to handle it).
    Use a vacuum hose (about a foot long) slipped over the tip of the new plugs when installing in the rear head, just fish them in and turn on the hose to start the threads in the head, then finish with appropriate socket and ratchet. Don't forget the thread anti seize compound on the spark plug threads!! and don't tighten too tight!
    ( Very important in aluminum heads).
    My engine has 308,000 km. and on about 4th set of plugs, I find NGK platinum work better than the Bosch.
    Hope this helps you . :)
  • is 60K or 90K-thanks
  • I have had a Camry XLE 4 with Navigation for almost two months. It is great! This is the first car I have had with Navigation. It helps greatly when you are dealing with detours (map on screen) and helps with making trips shorter in some cases. As the instructions say, always use your own judgement.

    I am curious about how often they upgrade the CD Rom and what it costs to do so.
  • bj02176bj02176 Posts: 115
    My camry 4 is pretty good, had to have an alignment, and tire balance. Other then that not to shabby. Bland yet trouble free, brake pedal feel could be better. No rattles, solid construction. Good gas mileage. The 4 is quiet, shifts smoothly, and zooms to 80 very quickly. I think it seriously matches the 6 in my late Jeep liberty. Both are nothing special off the line. As I usually trade every year, currently looking at the 2003 Forester. This may be hard to give up, it may go the distance and be my other logevity car, 1976 Toyota Corona, kept that for 48,000 miles of mostly trouble free driving. It even made it home at 6 pm during the blizzard of 1978 with regular all season tires. (think New England all you other alien state dwellers)
  • 210delray210delray Posts: 4,722
    In 1998 models with the 4-cylinder or V6, it's 90,000 miles.
  • logitech1logitech1 Posts: 32
    Hi, thanks for your reply.
    I am confused...

    1 mile = 1.6 KM, and 1 gallon = 3.8 liter, am I right? so my camry V6 does about 9 km per liter, so your kpl is (32 X 1.6) / 3.8 = 13.47 km per liter! way better than mine. BTW, will it make any difference if I change fule filter (can I do this myself?), plugs and air filter (I checked air filter, looks very clean).

    How does the speed sensor works? I mean how to determine the speed? I thought it senses wheel speed, say 400 RPM, and the outer diameter of the tire is e.g. 80 cm, so the speed is 400 X 3.14 X 0.8 = 1004 meter per min (or. 1 km/min or 60 km/hour).

    what do you mean about "Don't forget the thread anti seize compound on the spark plug threads!! "?

    hehe, admie your has 308.000 km...I am not sure if my camry can do it... :-(

This discussion has been closed.