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What RPM does this happen at? Is it under 3,300? The Cougar has a two stage throttle. The primary throttle is always open, and the secondary opens up at 3,300. If you shift in to 2nd under 3,300 and then accelerate, you will notice a slight lag until the engine revs enough to open the secondary throttle.
I have no ideas about your second question.
I posted here too, incase some people don't read the "chats on" section.
Thanks!
1. I can definately feel the second throttle open and this surge is distinct. The issue I am concerned about is like the clutch doesn't fully engage even though it has been let out. Typically just after letting out the clutch, I mash the gas and strange hesitation or lull before the pickup, then the boost when the second throttle sets in. This does happen in both 1 to 2 and 2 to 3 at least can't remember is 3-4, probably by then the is not need to accelarate hard.
2. I tested 2. again and found the feeling occurs after a slow reverse, out of a parking space. As I start to roll forward again in 1st the rub is in the clutch petal - not the brake. It is audible, but barely.
BKJ
I really have no idea what could be causing this. I would take it in for service ASAP. Its most likely a sensor or something along those lines.
As a new owner of a sleek cougar. I would like to keep it that way. What are the recommended products and approches for the following:
1. Protect wheels from brake dust and to clean brake dust
( I remember something about brake dust covers - do they exist? )
2. Tire care - ie. make them black and help stay black (armor all is default)
3. Glass cleaner and protectant (ammonia and rain X is default)
4. protectant and / cleanear for plastic headlight covers
5. Interior plastic trim
6. Leather care
7. Car wax
Anything I missed?
Cheers.
>>1. Protect wheels from brake dust and to clean brake dust ( I remember something about brake dust covers - do they exist? )
I really don't recommend the brake dust covers or any sort of deflector that rests between the brake rotor and the wheel. Mostly because the brakes need cool air when being applied in order to maintain their longevity and consistency per application. If you put these covers in there, it limits the amount of air that passes over the rotor, thus letting them heat up to extreme levels and deteriorating the performance you should have. There are several methods of getting the brake dust off of the wheels, but none that are very effective for keeping it off. I usually wash my wheels with the soapy water after washing the car (wouldn't want to spread brake dust on the paint). Then you can use some regular wax (whatever you use on the car) and that should help keep them shiny. This will also help you the next time you wash the wheels because the brake dust won't accumulate so much, but expect to wash your wheels on a weekly basis (or thereabouts) if you want to keep them looking good all the time.
>>2. Tire care - ie. make them black and help stay black (armor all is default)
Armor All has a tendency to dry out the surface of rubber and vinyl over time. I recommend washing them when you wash the wheels to get off any road-grime, then use a tire dressing like a spray foam or silicon sealant.
>>3. Glass cleaner and protectant (ammonia and rain X is default)
I'm not a big fan of ammonia-based glass cleaners because I have aftermarket window tinting, and ammonia will have ill affects on it. I use an automotive, ammonia-free cleaner that does a really good job of cleaning the windows without streaking. I use a cotton towel instead of papertowels (again, because of the tint), but this technique works really well on glass without tint, too.
>>4. protectant and / cleanear for plastic headlight covers
I just wash the headlights/tail lights when I wash the car. If you're using a fairly high-quality soap, then they should last a really long time. You can wax them if you want, but since they're plastic, they hold up well against the elements on their own.
>>5. Interior plastic trim
I use plain water on the interior dash and trim panels. If there's a stubborn spot, I'll dilute some Simple Green with water and wipe it down, being sure to wipe all residue (Simple Green will get sticky in hot weather).
>>6. Leather care
There are some really good products out there for leather care. I recommend using a soft, cotton cloth when you clean and condition. Zymol has a good one, but the best stuff is Lexol.
>>7. Car wax
I think most of us use Meguire's. I use the cleaner/wax in a bottle (liquid) on a regular basis and once a year I use the #4 cleaner/wax paste. The Cat still shines after nearly three years.
On the interior, I also use Swiffers regularly for basic dust-downs and cleaning the dash. If you drive with your windows down a lot, it gets the pollen dust out without streaking like water does. I think its best to use one for the dust before wiping it with the wet towel.
I hope these tips helped, and if you want additional suggestions, check out Jimbo G's Professional Car Care Tips at www.cougarsupportgroup.com and visit the Guides section.
Take care, and Happy Cougaring!
I have not noticed the stuttering in my car.
Recall: 01S02
My BFG's have about 23K on them, and are wearing normally. I kep my pressure at about 36PSI front and rear, and have had no problems (except for potholes and big metal bits on the road).
Skip G.
The flat spots on the rear tires is another story. Is sounds like the rear tires are shimmying as they rotate. Do you feel any excessive vibration in your steering column, or, despite correct alinement, does your car still drift? If so, then you may have a problem with the rear wheel struts. I had some experience with this, sinc when they transported my latest Cougar, the transporter managed to use the rear struts to anchor the car, resulting in damage. One visible sign of this was the rear wheel wasn't centered in the wheel well. The other, as I pointed out was an incessant drift. Good luck in getting it resolved!!
I'm curious to know what you mean by "I have Comp T/As on my car and I always keep them at max pressure." When you say "max pressure" are you referring to the number molded into the sidewall of the tire? If so, that's not a great idea.
www.alldata.com on the Cougar. Good Luck!!
WELCOME TO THE CSG!!! Be sure to check out our official web site at: http://www.cougarsupportgroup.com
Please stop in from time to time and let us know how you and your Cat are doing. If you ever have any questions, you know where to come!!
Congratulations and good luck!!!
I'd suggest following the Ford Maintenance Schedule, it's a separate booklet that you should have in your glove compartment, not your Owners' Manual. Any more frequent changes are just an extra profit item for the servicing dealer.
According to the Ford Maintenance Schedule your Cougar's fuel filter should be replaced at 30,000, 60,000, 90,000 and 120,000 miles. The only vehicles that Ford recommends for 15,000 mile fuel filter replacements are trucks.
Somehow the last paragraph of my post 424 didn't show above. It was supposed to have read:
According to the Ford Maintenance Schedule your Cougar's ATX Fluid should NEVER be replaced. They just specify that you "Inspect automatic transmission fluid level" at 15,000, 30,000, 45,000, 60,000, 75,000, 90,000, 105,000, 120,000 and 135,000 miles.
The manual I am referencing was the Maintenance Guide that is seperate from the owners manual. I looked in the guide and did not see where it references never to change the ATX Fluid. Mine states that the ATX fluid should be changed(@ 30,000) on certain transmission models and then it lists the models(by number). I am not sure which model number the Cougar has in it.
Thanks for your response!!!
As Lefty said, they shouldn't change the plugs for at least 100,000 miles. I personally don't buy in to the 100,000 mile plug, so I changed them at 45,000 miles. They were pretty much fried.
For around $150.00 I did the following to my Cat last month:
- Changed Spark Plugs
- Changed Spark Plug Wires
- Replaced the cabin air filter
- Check all fluids
- Oil Change (Castrol Syntech & Fram extended life filter)
- Cleaned out the KKM Intake Filter
- Cleaned the MAF sensor
- Cleaned out the throttle body
- Rotate Tires (Had a local garage do this)
- Balance Tires (Had a local garage do this)
- Brake Inspection (Had a local garage do this)
- Belt Inspection (FMC Dealership did this for free)
- Added one can of Techron to fuel tank to clean out injectors
The only thing I didn't do was the fuel filter. I need to find instructions for this procedure before I attempt it.
If you have the time and patients, you can do most of the stuff they offered to do for a fraction of the cost.
An interesting note:
While searching for employment this week, I came across several ads for Automotive Service Advisors. One thing I noticed about most of them is that people in these positions actually get commision. After reading this, it became clear to me why so many Service Advisors always try to talk you in to unneeded and over priced service procedures. As if it isn't bad enough that we have to deal with sales people in the show room. Now we have to deal with them in the Service Department as well.
I had the car in for service this week and they rebuilt the IMRC (intake maniford runner control - often referred to as "the secondaries"). They also changed the spark plugs and spark plug wires. Although the car is 2 years and 8 months old, I only have about 43,000 km (27,000 mi) on it. I'm not sure if it was the IMRC or the plugs, but the car runs great now. Possibly better than ever.
They also turned all four rotors and installed new back brake pads to solve a warped brake and perpetual squeaking problem. All under warranty. I was pretty impressed.
Hopefully this will be it for a long time. I've had a string of problems lately and have seriously been considering trading. I sincerely want to keep the car because it really is a great car when it's running properly. "Membership" in the CSG is also honestly one reason why I want to keep the car.
I'm really sorry to hear about the problems you have been having lately. Hopefully the work the dealership performed will solve all of them.
I do have a CDL (truck license) but that's rediculous!!!!!
Skip G.
P.S. Barring any future damage, we'll be all pretty for CF2 ;-)
I had a similar experience with my Cougar re: noise while in reverse. This was about 4 weeks ago. I had just finished washing and waxing her. As I was backing up out of the driveway, I heard a loud grinding noise, and from what I can determine, it came from the brakes. The noise went on for a split second and disappeared. It happened again another time, but hasn't happened again.
At first I thought it was that my brake pads were low. But I've been driving the car since then with no problems. I have a little over 14K miles on the her now. I know that the life of brake pads has a lot to do with your driving habits, but just to get an idea, I'd like to ask a question to everyone here who've replaced their pads. How often do you change the pads on the Cougar? Do the pads start to squeel to indicate that it's time to change them? Are you aggressive or normal (if there is such a thing as normal) driver?
Otherwise, we'll just have to put up with weird noises in our cars that nobody can fix.
9cougar9:
Re posts #432, 435, 436 & 437...
The loud, rear only, brake noise in reverse is a known condition in recent Cougars. It only occurs for the first application of the brakes after the vehicle has been parked (overnight) after the disks have become wet (washing, rain, heavy dew) and a slight amount of oxidation accumulates on the rotor. It wears off in a second and you won't hear the noise again until the overnight moisture conditions are right.
There is a Technical Service Bulletin about it, but no solution.
Thanks
Rusty
You've got symptoms of needing either wheel alignment, balancing or both. Since they are normal wear items you will probably not be covered under warranty, but you must have the problem checked out.
Have they spin-balanced your wheels on the car or on a separate machine, off the car? Find a shop that spin balances by driving the tire in contact with a spinning cylinder, while it's still mounted to your brake rotors. Sometimes an out-of-balance rotor will cause your symptoms.
Spin balancing off the car will never detect the problem.
I have had my tires balanced and aligned in every conceivable manner. I really think it's the car and not the tires. This is the second set of tires(Firestone-OEM & Pirelli's-current) that have had the same vibration in the steering wheel. Also, I have heard that NUMEROUS Cougar owners have experienced this same problem. My dealer actually said this problem is causes by an anomoly in the car. Basically, it's the way the car was built. This is also the same dealer that said ALL cars contain rattles in the dashboard.
Not serious, but a little aggrivating. Oddly enough, it doesn't happen all the time, and seems to be road surface dependent. Typically comes up on soft asphalt when cruising along between 30-40mph. I don't think that it's a wheel/tire problem, but something in the centering of the power steering system. Seems like the portioning valves want to oscillate a little when there's no steering pressure applied.
Maybe we'll find an engineer at CF2, take him prisoner, and get an answer to this one, 'cause the dealers sure aren't gonna tell anybody!!
Skip G.