LOL Jimbo...I know what you mean. I can imagine - I have a big dog, like paintball, do my own oil changes and was asking about Rob's handcuffs...what an image that must paint for those who don't know me...LOL
Looks like Amber and Badulah will play paintball while the rest of us are detailing our beloved Cats. I'm not sure where handcuffs fit in the scheme of paintball. I thought once you got hit with the paintball, you were "dead." Is this like "extreme" paintball?? Please explain.
Amber you got my point exactly...LOL I'm just not sure quite what to make of you. That's ok, though. I guess you're leaving that up to my imagination. ;^)
Heck, I happen to be 30-something with a full set of teeth ;-} While I'm passing through Lake Placid this weekend, I'll look into mountain bike rentals as there should be at least one decent bike shop in town.
All,
I'll give a full report when I get back from VT. Have a great weekend!
For a minute there, you had me confused. I thought that you were thinking about Amber, paintball, handcuffs, beer, speedo swimwear, a full set of teeth and all of that made you nauseous. Well, I'm glad and relieved to hear that it was just a "typo."
An oil change every 25,000 miles? Um I don't think so. I use Castrol Syntec and I change it every 5,000-5,500 miles. I would rather spend a little more now, and have to spend a TON later.
I have always used synthetic, and I will never switch.
omigodmomigodomigod....found my first (albeit tiny) ding in my kitty today...looks like a rock probably got kicked up and knicked the very bottom of the rear bumper......no fair.
Ok, ok - once and for all, how often should I be changing my darn oil??? I thought it was 3,000 miles standard, but I'm not up on synthetics - can you go up to 5,000? I've always been a bit obsessive about doing mine every 3K.
I am familiar with the Duratec engine and recommend that everyone change their oil as FMC recommends (Or more often if you prefer). Trust me, the Duratec engine is very reliable, but it needs clean oil to last the long life it was designed for. As to oil grades, once again, follow the owner's manual when selecting an appropriate grade.
Synthetic oil does last longer than conventional oil, but the additives are what breaks down in either first. Additionally, the oil is collecting debris and changing your oil and filter removes this dirt from the engine permanently rather than just recirculating it. Therefore you will notice that the auto manufacturers do not recommend that you run Synthetic longer than conventional.
Sorry if this was long, but I have seen Duratec's pulled apart that have not had their oil changed regularly. Trust me, it is not a pretty picture
I am on my 4th car, and I have always used syntec, and I have always changed the oil at 5,000-5,500 mile intervals. All of my cars had well over 150,000 miles on them and they were still running strong when I sold them.
My mechanic agrees that using synthetic is a definite plus, and he also agrees that a 5,000-5,500 mile changing interval is more than adequate.
I'm not one of those conspiracy theory guys, but it seems to me that if we can make lubricants that work in jet engines in battlefield conditions during Desert Storm, we ought to be able to make a lubricant/air filter/oil filter system that doesn't need to be constantly drained and refilled just because you drove to the grocery store every Saturday.
According to this article we're being duped by big oil, Jiffy Lube, et al:
Amber: Don't worry, Amber, I don't hold in that regard. Frankly, I think very highly of you. You are the only woman I have ever met that actually changes her own oil (not meant to be a chauvanistic/sexist remark). Has any of you guys ever met someone like that? All the girls I've known don't even like the physical act of putting gas in their own tank. Also, you got a nice ride.
My apologies if you took offense.
Badman: You are being ever so subtle in pointing us back to our topic. Thank you.
Just got the oil changed on my Cat, and she's got 958 miles on her. Now she's ready for the trip.
I had wanted to do the oil change myself, but I'm glad I didn't. I was watching the mechanic at Exxon as he was changing the oil filter. He ended up burning his hand. He was mad that the oil filter is right next to the manifold which was very hot. I'll sure be on the lookout for that when I change the oil myself (I definitely would've burned my hand if I had changed the oil myself).
Also, I had asked about the synthetic oil. They charged an additional $1 per quart of oil. However, the guy did not recommend it to me and claimed that synthetic oil is suited for colder climates like Minnesota (or all of Canada, right Krnch ;o) and added about an extra 1K miles per oil change interval. So I went with the regular oil. I plan to change it every 3,000 miles.
Everyone recommends synthetics now, even if you change oil often. They perform better at high temperatures (like in Nevada), and flow better at low temperatures (like in Minnesota). They seal the rings better and boost gas mileage in virtually every case.
I'm definitely switching to synthetic. I'm just debating how much longer I can leave them in the crank than petroleum oil.
I use conventional oil, and go the 5000-5500 range. I know this sounds odd compared to what everyone else posts (3K) for conventional. The reason I do this is because conventional oil in a modern engine should not require changing intervals that close together. I inspect the used oil every time it's changed, and it's always clear-ish brown, never dark brown, never black. I figure this is fine, especially with the experience I got working at a gas station in my younger youth. :^)
A/C Compressor:
Okay, I'm travelling on the highway, left lane, 12mph (not lying - really heavy traffic). It's hot out, so I click the a/c on with a mildly cold setting. As I'm sure we all know, the Cat DOES NOT like to go 12mph or below, really! Is it me, or does it get worse, I mean with the a/c on it's jerking and jumping all the time. Is anyone else experiencing this? I want to know, because I don't like taking it to the shop for nothing. Thanks in advance, later all!
I agree with you totally about the use of "conventional" petroleum-based oil and observing the manufacturer's 5,000 mile oil change interval recommendation. Unless you are regularly driving through extremely dusty conditions more frequent (such as 3,000 mile) oil changes are a waste of money for modern engines. The use of high-priced synthetic oils for such short interval oil changes is also a waste of money, although it might make you FEEL like you are doing your car a favor.
bobschm:
I can't agree with you that "everyone" recommends use of synthetic motor oil. Why wouldn't ANY of the automobile manufacturers, ALL of which have massive engineering staffs and testing budgets? Yes, there is much hype by synthetic oil sellers recommending use of their products.
As long as drivers don't regularly drive at extremely (over 90 mph?) speeds for hours on end across the desert, and if they don't exceed "normal" oil change intervals and try to drive the 12,000 to 25,000 miles the synthetic proponents say their product can last, they are wasting their money.
I'll tell you why, the Oil Industry has enourmous control over Automobile production, more specifically their engines and such. We have the technology to make engines that go 100+ MPG but the Oil Industry has its way with us and our cars.. I'll have to find the article but its pretty amazing stuff.
At lower RPM's with the a/c on, when the a/c clutch kicks in, it causes the whole car to drag down like I tapped the brakes (good compression in the engine!) and when the compressor kicks off, it makes the car jump like I tapped the gas. It only scares me when I'm following too closely, because I don't know which pedal to cover when it kicks. :^) Just kidding, but seriously, it's annoying to the point that I just never use a/c.
Fredly:
I agree about the consipiracy/global economy thing. This happens in a lot of other business other than the automotive industry too. But honestly, would you go and buy one of these new-fangled cars that go 100+ mpg? I don't think I could live without the horsepower. On ramps are hard enough already in my area!
OK, I have not experienced that with my AC. As you know, I have experienced some problems with my AC but not that. Right now, all is working fine in my Cat. Except the rattles coming from my dash and hatch. Its funny, sometimes the noises are worse than others and I don't mean when the radio is on or off ;-)!!!!!
An A/C compressor is a HUGE load on an engine. Whenever that compressor kicks in, the engine rpm will jump by 50-100 to compensate and keep from stalling. In smaller engines, the surge can be very high... maybe a couple of hundred rpm.
Do you really think that in the V6 (I guess it is a relatively small engine) that the a/c compressor surge would cause that much havoc? I've had the a/c in a four-banger act like this, but never in a V6.
Dasaint: Thanks. No offense taken I was just kiddin'.
Gonna detail my kitty kat today after work since it's so nice out...I have to know the truth though. Today I plan on handwashing, but really, how evil are automatic washes?? I'm in a pinch for time sometimes and I'm trying to figure out which is worse - a dirty car, or going thru the auto-wash.
First of all, I haven't had my Cougar in a summer yet, so I don't know how the a/c works in my V6. Perhaps another warm climate cougar owner can quantify the rpm rise when the a/c compressor kicks in?
Secondly, I don't know exactly what you are experiencing. You know, one man's "minor rpm surge" is another man's "engine havoc". I have experienced the rpm surge even in my big Firebird V8. In a smaller 4-banger, that surge is more noticeable and so is the drop in performance when the a/c is on.
I would never use the automatic car wash. I only wash by hand. I have heard of mirrors breaking off(isolated) and the paint getting scratched. I guess it depends on what kind of automatic car wash you take it to. Why risk it though?
I've got several scratches on my wing from the one time I used an automatic wash. I guess the cloths had some bad stuff on them. I have since sworn off the auto washes, and use the touchless machines during the winter to at least wash off the salt.
If you're planning on using an autowash, take precautions as far as removing the antenna. I didn't know it was removeable (never checked) until after I used the afore-mentioned car wash, so I consider myself lucky that it didn't get damaged also.
I highly recommend washing it yourself, at least that way, you can only hold yourself responsible for anything that may happen.
Thanks Bob! I appreciate your opinions, and you're right about how each individual would describe a surge. For now, I just turn off the a/c when in heavy traffic and try to forget ...
Next time I've got my Cat in the dealer I'll have them check it out -- just to make sure.
The only auto-wash I use anyway is the touchless one...all liquid out of jet-type-thingies that are always at least a foot away from my car...no brushes or anything like that. I haven't had a bad experience with them yet with my Camaro, but I'm a bit more protective of my brand new Cougar.
Guess I better go invest in some more sponges and a big shammy. Thanks for your input, guys.
My 2000 Cougar is now sans the driver side mirror after I ran it under a mailbox one night when I was very tired. The paint was scratched horribly, and rather than touch it up, I opted to let a body shop repaint it.
Getting the mirror off was pretty easy. About six screws, and unplug it, and there it was.
The door looks awful with the mirror assembly off, but it will only be for a week. Driving without the mirror is a bear, I have to have the inside mirror tilted all the way over to the left. I am going to have be very careful.
The body shop fellow commented on how easy it was to take the door panel off...this is a remarkably well designed car.
The resource from the club here on how to install a new speaker was incredibly helpful--from which screws are where and where they are to taking the little Cougar symbol off to get at the Phillips head under it.
Without it, taking the door apart would have been sheer guesswork (and I doubt I would have figured out to take that Cat off), and the job would have taken twice as long.
Jimmy (the mechanic) was extremely impressed. I don't think he is into computers at all.
Comments
I call dibs on the other paintball gun.
I can't believe you. I fulfilled your initial requirements almost to a T. And now you're adding more criterias.
Let me put it to you this way, he looks as debonair as anyone with whatever teeth and hair he has left. Oh, btw, his name is Abra.
Jimbo:
Did I read your post right? Did you say you'd throw up on the wall?? And you haven't even seen Amber yet.
Jimbo_G
Heck, I happen to be 30-something with a full set of teeth ;-} While I'm passing through Lake Placid this weekend, I'll look into mountain bike rentals as there should be at least one decent bike shop in town.
All,
I'll give a full report when I get back from VT. Have a great weekend!
I'm planning to spend some money here for a foam air filter and a high performance oil filter. Any recommendations?
Any one used Amsoil products?
http://www.guarding-our-earth.com/amsoil/
I have always used synthetic, and I will never switch.
Ok, ok - once and for all, how often should I be changing my darn oil??? I thought it was 3,000 miles standard, but I'm not up on synthetics - can you go up to 5,000? I've always been a bit obsessive about doing mine every 3K.
Synthetic oil does last longer than conventional oil, but the additives are what breaks down in either first. Additionally, the oil is collecting debris and changing your oil and filter removes this dirt from the engine permanently rather than just recirculating it. Therefore you will notice that the auto manufacturers do not recommend that you run Synthetic longer than conventional.
Sorry if this was long, but I have seen Duratec's pulled apart that have not had their oil changed regularly. Trust me, it is not a pretty picture
My mechanic agrees that using synthetic is a definite plus, and he also agrees that a 5,000-5,500 mile changing interval is more than adequate.
According to this article we're being duped by big oil, Jiffy Lube, et al:
http://www.guarding-our-earth.com/amsoil/articles/article.exe
Of course, grains of salt are required here since they ARE trying to sell oil and filters. But the independent tests they cite are verifiable.
I'm thinking 10,000 mile oil changes.
Don't worry, Amber, I don't hold in that regard. Frankly, I think very highly of you. You are the only woman I have ever met that actually changes her own oil (not meant to be a chauvanistic/sexist remark). Has any of you guys ever met someone like that? All the girls I've known don't even like the physical act of putting gas in their own tank. Also, you got a nice ride.
My apologies if you took offense.
Badman:
You are being ever so subtle in pointing us back to our topic. Thank you.
Bummer!
CSG Gatherings and Events.
All Lake Placid planning should be moved over to
this new area in order to better keep track of it.
Thanks!
CSG Gatherings and Events.
All Lake Placid planning should be moved over to
this new area in order to better keep track of it.
Thanks!
I had wanted to do the oil change myself, but I'm glad I didn't. I was watching the mechanic at Exxon as he was changing the oil filter. He ended up burning his hand. He was mad that the oil filter is right next to the manifold which was very hot. I'll sure be on the lookout for that when I change the oil myself (I definitely would've burned my hand if I had changed the oil myself).
Also, I had asked about the synthetic oil. They charged an additional $1 per quart of oil. However, the guy did not recommend it to me and claimed that synthetic oil is suited for colder climates like Minnesota (or all of Canada, right Krnch ;o) and added about an extra 1K miles per oil change interval. So I went with the regular oil. I plan to change it every 3,000 miles.
Everyone recommends synthetics now, even if you change oil often. They perform better at high temperatures (like in Nevada), and flow better at low temperatures (like in Minnesota). They seal the rings better and boost gas mileage in virtually every case.
I'm definitely switching to synthetic. I'm just debating how much longer I can leave them in the crank than petroleum oil.
A/C Compressor:
Okay, I'm travelling on the highway, left lane, 12mph (not lying - really heavy traffic). It's hot out, so I click the a/c on with a mildly cold setting. As I'm sure we all know, the Cat DOES NOT like to go 12mph or below, really! Is it me, or does it get worse, I mean with the a/c on it's jerking and jumping all the time. Is anyone else experiencing this? I want to know, because I don't like taking it to the shop for nothing. Thanks in advance, later all!
Happy Cougaring!
Thank you.
I agree with you totally about the use of "conventional" petroleum-based oil and observing the manufacturer's 5,000 mile oil change interval recommendation. Unless you are regularly driving through extremely dusty conditions more frequent (such as 3,000 mile) oil changes are a waste of money for modern engines. The use of high-priced synthetic oils for such short interval oil changes is also a waste of money, although it might make you FEEL like you are doing your car a favor.
bobschm:
I can't agree with you that "everyone" recommends use of synthetic motor oil. Why wouldn't ANY of the automobile manufacturers, ALL of which have massive engineering staffs and testing budgets? Yes, there is much hype by synthetic oil sellers recommending use of their products.
As long as drivers don't regularly drive at extremely (over 90 mph?) speeds for hours on end across the desert, and if they don't exceed "normal" oil change intervals and try to drive the 12,000 to 25,000 miles the synthetic proponents say their product can last, they are wasting their money.
the Oil Industry has enourmous control over Automobile production, more specifically
their engines and such.
We have the technology to make engines that go 100+ MPG
but the Oil Industry has its way with us and our cars..
I'll have to find the article but its pretty amazing stuff.
At lower RPM's with the a/c on, when the a/c clutch kicks in, it causes the whole car to drag down like I tapped the brakes (good compression in the engine!) and when the compressor kicks off, it makes the car jump like I tapped the gas. It only scares me when I'm following too closely, because I don't know which pedal to cover when it kicks. :^) Just kidding, but seriously, it's annoying to the point that I just never use a/c.
Fredly:
I agree about the consipiracy/global economy thing. This happens in a lot of other business other than the automotive industry too. But honestly, would you go and buy one of these new-fangled cars that go 100+ mpg? I don't think I could live without the horsepower. On ramps are hard enough already in my area!
Take care everyone, and happy Easter!
Happy Easter all and enjoy the day!!
http://guarding-our-earth.com/amsoil/index01.shtml
surging:
An A/C compressor is a HUGE load on an engine. Whenever that compressor kicks in, the engine rpm will jump by 50-100 to compensate and keep from stalling. In smaller engines, the surge can be very high... maybe a couple of hundred rpm.
Do you really think that in the V6 (I guess it is a relatively small engine) that the a/c compressor surge would cause that much havoc? I've had the a/c in a four-banger act like this, but never in a V6.
Thanks. No offense taken I was just kiddin'.
Gonna detail my kitty kat today after work since it's so nice out...I have to know the truth though. Today I plan on handwashing, but really, how evil are automatic washes?? I'm in a pinch for time sometimes and I'm trying to figure out which is worse - a dirty car, or going thru the auto-wash.
Secondly, I don't know exactly what you are experiencing. You know, one man's "minor rpm surge" is another man's "engine havoc". I have experienced the rpm surge even in my big Firebird V8. In a smaller 4-banger, that surge is more noticeable and so is the drop in performance when the a/c is on.
If you're planning on using an autowash, take precautions as far as removing the antenna. I didn't know it was removeable (never checked) until after I used the afore-mentioned car wash, so I consider myself lucky that it didn't get damaged also.
I highly recommend washing it yourself, at least that way, you can only hold yourself responsible for anything that may happen.
Good luck.
Next time I've got my Cat in the dealer I'll have them check it out -- just to make sure.
Take care!
The only auto-wash I use anyway is the touchless one...all liquid out of jet-type-thingies that are always at least a foot away from my car...no brushes or anything like that. I haven't had a bad experience with them yet with my Camaro, but I'm a bit more protective of my brand new Cougar.
Guess I better go invest in some more sponges and a big shammy. Thanks for your input, guys.
Getting the mirror off was pretty easy. About six screws, and unplug it, and there it was.
The door looks awful with the mirror assembly off, but it will only be for a week. Driving without the mirror is a bear, I have to have the inside mirror tilted all the way over to the left.
I am going to have be very careful.
The body shop fellow commented on how easy it was to take the door panel off...this is a remarkably well designed car.
Cheers!
Rick
All of my previous cars had very difficult panels to disassemble.
Without it, taking the door apart would have been sheer guesswork (and I doubt I would have figured out to take that Cat off), and the job would have taken twice as long.
Jimmy (the mechanic) was extremely impressed. I don't think he is into computers at all.
A terrific resource! Many thanks for posting it!
Cheers!
Rick
Thanks for the kind words. That's what we are here for.
Keep your eye out for new install guides. We are working on two new ones and we are hoping to get them posted in the next two weeks.