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Comments
Miss one, though, and you'll get a CEL.
-juice
Ed
-juice
Ross
Was that CEL when you did the snokusectomy and forgot to reattach the vaccum hose?
Ken
-juice
Juice,
Good idea about the tires, but I just put some Goodyears on and don't want to spend that much for a new set. But if these are anything like the the Goodyears on my Dad's Jeep, then I'll be buying new ones pretty soon. I'll DEFINITELY keep your idea in mind when I buy tires again. Thanks again.
I think I'm going to try a K&N filter and see how that works.
One more question for now....has anyone played around with the stereo? (new speakers, subwoofer/amp., tweeters, etc.) I'm thinking that maybe later this summer, I'll play around with that a little. Thanks!
Rich
First of all, for anyone in the snow belt have a good look at your suspension. Nasty, eh? Everything on my car had a nice coat of sand and salt corrosion... With this in mind, I new that the Teins weren't going to stand up well to the elements since they have an aluminum threaded spring perch (for ride height adjustment) and a painted metal helper spring that rides on it. In fact, the original owner of this suspension provided 3 extra new perches because one of them rusted to a spring and had to be cutaway.
So anyway, I shopped around for corrosion protectants and found something great. It's a bit like powdercoat, except it's not designed to be pretty it's loaded with protectants. Apparently it's used on aircraft-- anyway, it was free to me. ;-) I followed the instructions and applied it liberally to the perch, threaded collar and helper spring. Thanks to the Kansas wind, I oversprayed a tiny bit on the strut rods, but since they're inverted struts and that's not the real strut rod, I wasn't worried.
Removing the existing suspension-- stock RS springs and KYB AGX adjustable struts-- was pretty easy since I'd done it before, except the right rear corner lower strut bolts were really stuck. Broke a 19mm impact socket trying to get it free... what finally did it was a 19mm forged wrench with a 1 1/4" forged wrench looped over it as a cheater bar. Even with ~2' of mechanical advantage it was very challenging to break the nuts free.
Everything else went smoothly, and just to see how low it could go we installed the suspension at the lowest position. The rear was really super low, like you couldn't even stick one finger in between the fender lip and top of the tire. (whoa!) I thought to immediate raise it, but my buddy Terrence really wanted to stick to the plan, so I went along.
Next the front, and when we lowered it back down it actually was so low that the jack was slightly stuck under the engine crossmember. I'd estimate it was 3-3.5" lower than stock... absolutely in the weeds. It was obvious that you couldn't even turn the wheels much without rubbing, so immediately back up it went. Raised the perches about 1.5" and brought it back down... much better. Raised the rear about 1" and bled the brakes, now time to give it a whirl.
First, handling. It is simply awesome. Body roll is reduced a great deal, and cornering limits on my AVS S1 are high, sufficiently so that corners can be taken at more than enough speed to terrify passengers without so much as chirping a tire. (To be honest, this was mostly true with the AGX as well, it's just that there was lots of body roll.) Handling is very sharp and direct. I am drooling with anticipation for the next autocross...
As you might expect with more than doubling the spring rate, bumps are certainly harsher. Individual bumps are not bad, but undulating or severely broken pavement is fairly punishing. I've ridden in heavy duty trucks that were worse though. Expansion joints are actually better than the AGXs on 2/4. Fortunately, we have fairly good roads here for an area that does get ice & snow.
Too early for anything definitive, but I'm pleased so far.
-Colin
(still waiting on photopoint... grrr)
Colin: what was the name of that powdercoat stuff? Would it work on high heat components, like brakes? I'd like to clean rusty brake components and paint them flat black.
Also, I make a great terrified passenger, if you ever wanted to prove your theory. ;-)
-juice
Juice-- um... it doesn't really have a name, it has a part number. Like I said, I acquired it from someone who uses it in their job on exposed aircraft parts. If you have a similar "source", I can get you the part number. This is what they looked like after coating:
It's not suitable for high temps though-- you can buy VHT spray paint or use a Folia-tec kit specifically intended for painting brake calipers.
This is the final result.
The car is absolutely filthy, it's just that silver hides dirt so well you can't see much of it except that huge soot print on the lower door. That's where the camaro launched a spitball at my RS about 3 weeks ago... yep, haven't washed it yet. After I wash it I'll post pics to the SC pictures topic.
If you're interested in seeing the whole album, click here.
-Colin
-juice
-Colin
He's in NJ.
-Colin
-juice
BTW, I have a source in PA that has 16-62-15, which is still closer than 14-62-15. He runs 17-65-15 on hard dirt though, and may have a set coming available in the near future. Fingers crossed, propaganda campaign at home under way.
One suggestion - visit a dealer and pop the hoods.
-juice
I recently purchased a 2001 2.5 RS. I'm very happy with the car, but wish I had gotten the keyless entry option. I'm wondering what my best option is now that I've had the car a couple months. Do I take it back to the dealer to have it installed? Do auto shops do this work? Are there compatible aftermarket products?
I don't really have the time to install anything myself, unless it's ridiculously easy, so I'm looking for advice on the best/cheapest way to have this feature installed on my car.
Thanks for your help!
-juice
Since my gracious employer gives us Good Friday off, I pulled the suspension back out and put on the rear STi mounts and the front Cusco camberplates with the assistance of 1.5 friends (Tim showed up after we were already done with the rear). This is what the camberplates look like:
First of all, let me speak about the purpose of these things. What you see is all that locates the top portion of the strut & spring assembly. When you corner hard, the stock rubber mount flexes, allowing dynamic camber change. (bad) Being of aluminum, this mount won't flex, the spherical bearing reduces friction, and the camber adjustment allows you to set more static camber than is possible by using the camber bolt at the hub alone. The camberplates are machined aluminum and use a spherical bearing. The rear mounts I have look about like stock from a distance, but they're not. The STi mounts are billed as "hard rubber", but they felt like some kind of urethane to me.
Now why didn't I get camberplates in the back too? Since the front tires do most of the cornering and the Impreza chassis exhibits more body roll in the front than rear, I felt that I didn't need more negative camber in the rear. (Stock rear is -1 deg, and I have camber bolts I could use if I want / need more.) Besides, the rear mounts are inside the cabin, so noises from aluminum on sheet metal are very evident.
Anyway, we finished everything in about an hour and a half. Went for a drive and WOW, I'm impressed. Can I honestly say I could feel the limits of the stock rubber mounts on the street? Nah. But I have much more negative camber up front, and the ability to easily change it. The camberplates aren't noisy either-- I was expecting to hear the odd clank but so far all I hear is the swishing noise of the spherical bearings. It sounds kinda neat.
I'll give an autocross report on Sunday night, and have pictures too. Gotta find time to wash my car tomorrow!
-Colin
Steve: just keep all four tires the same size. Also, keep in mind there isn't a whole lot of room under in the wheel wells for more tire. I doubt 225/55s will fit.
You may be able to fit 225/50, which have the same diameter as stock but are 20mm wider.
Either of those will give you more ground clearance, but also raise your center of gravity. They'll also effectively make your gearing taller, which may slow you down a bit, but would also lower revs and possibly reduce noise at highway speeds.
Other negatives? More rolling resistance, and slightly worse aerodynamics (since the tires will be wider).
-juice
http://albums.photopoint.com/j/AlbumIndex?u=1400062&a=12600139&f=0
I put washers under the seat track to lift the front up a bit (3/16"), for better thigh support. The Miata has zero legroom so this was a key mod. Now the front tilts up a bit more, like the Forester with the adjustment all the way up (though still not nearly as comfy).
Why is this relevant? Well, some folks have wondered if the Scooby's tracks are similar. They are not, though - the front bolt comes in at an angle, so forget about lifting it there. If you did, it wouldn't be very secure.
Instead, on the track itself there is another bolt, and that looks like it could be rigged to lift the seat up a bit. If you did it front and rear, you could probably lift the entire seat about 1/2" or so, while still being able to reach the shifter comfortably.
It's definitely not as simple to do on a Soob, but it does seem doable, just from taking a peek at it.
-juice
re: 225/50-16 vs. 205/55-16
aerodynamics are less than negligible, rolling resistance should be as well assuming you buy similar tire types.
fender and suspension clearance could definitely be an issue. either have a local shop mount one tire and see how it fits, or find out from someone who has a similar car and has used a bigger tire.
re: camberplates & coilovers
Ride quality isn't that bad and I'm getting used to it all the time. The ride doesn't seem to have gotten notably worse with the sti rear mounts & camberplates than before with the stock mounts.
The setup was absolutely awesome at the autocross yesterday. The car was SO different that I needed more than my 4 runs to learn what was going on-- my last run was my best by almost a full second and I blew the entry to a hairpin (no cones, just late braking and really bad exit speed). The car had a lot more to give, I personally could have come up with another 2 seconds with more familiarity with it.
There is practically no body roll and braking performance is incredible. A local guy who's buying a WRX wagon (waiting on allocation) asked me if I had stock brakes. Yep!
Next up, a divisional autocross 4/28-4/29. I'll absolutely have pictures from it, the big boys will be there.
-Colin
do u know a fellow autoXer by the name of Brian Priebe? I think he races a 98 RS or something....
I'm sure I'll meet him sooner or later, although I did see his RS for sale. (probably wants a WRX, almost everyone does.)
-Colin
-juice
-Colin
-juice
-Colin
-mike
Loosh's Outback is heavier than an RS, so the brakes have to work a little harder too. I doubt the swept area is any different.
-juice
-mike
..Mike
..Mike
I can imagine how much brake dust you shed after the last track visit. How much was it? 10k worth? Hit 106mph and then toss out the anchor and that's what you get...he he he!
-juice
Cheers!
Paul
I'm trying to get a better grasp on it, so that, in the future, I will be able to work on it and possibly modify the car.
I beg that you bear with me here, some of these may seem really dumb and basic. I assure you, I am no stranger to cars, just turbos.
1) What exactly is the intercooler doing? I could probably answer this myself when I actually get my car, but I'm curious. What is it cooling? The air being forced into the intake? If so, is the intercooler itself just air-cooled? If so, has there been any thought to a larger intercooler? It probably wouldn't fit, but there is always a way.
2) The blow-off valve releases pressure surges when shifting or decelerating, right? Does changing the blow-off valve do anything for you performance-wise? I've seen some aftermarket for sale and wonder what their advantage is.
3) I understand about the oil running through the turbo. Does this car come with an oil cooler? Would that be a worthwhile addition? Is it even possible in this instance?
I'll leave it as those 3 for now. I will have a lot more, though. Thanks to any responses.
'11 GMC Sierra 1500; '08 Charger R/T Daytona; '67 Coronet R/T; '13 Fiat 500c; '20 S90 T6; '22 MB Sprinter 2500 4x4 diesel; '97 Suzuki R Wagon; '96 Opel Astra; '08 Maser QP; '11 Mini Cooper S
I'm debating between the Kartboy and Cobb/ImprezaRS shifters. They're all about the same price but there are some differences:
Kartboy:
- Looks like a shortened version of the stock shifter
- Shortens throws but also lowers shifter height
- Lots of people have them and love it
Cobb:
- Straight design with solid bearings to replace stock bushings
- Close to stock shifter height but reduces throws
- Not as many people have it
Which one folks? Help me decide!
Ken
I would also like to hear some feedback about the Cobb one, though. It does look prettier.
'11 GMC Sierra 1500; '08 Charger R/T Daytona; '67 Coronet R/T; '13 Fiat 500c; '20 S90 T6; '22 MB Sprinter 2500 4x4 diesel; '97 Suzuki R Wagon; '96 Opel Astra; '08 Maser QP; '11 Mini Cooper S
I like the Kartboy for it's popularity and positive feedback, but the Cobb shifter's solid bearing design intrigues me.
Hmmmmm....
Ken
thanks
I'm always looking for Subaru parts sites to add to my collection.
'11 GMC Sierra 1500; '08 Charger R/T Daytona; '67 Coronet R/T; '13 Fiat 500c; '20 S90 T6; '22 MB Sprinter 2500 4x4 diesel; '97 Suzuki R Wagon; '96 Opel Astra; '08 Maser QP; '11 Mini Cooper S
Anyway, are you talking about the sti replica short shifter? If so, how do you know that its a Cobb? It doesn't say much of anything in the description. And what about the bushings? No mention of those, either.
thanks again.
'11 GMC Sierra 1500; '08 Charger R/T Daytona; '67 Coronet R/T; '13 Fiat 500c; '20 S90 T6; '22 MB Sprinter 2500 4x4 diesel; '97 Suzuki R Wagon; '96 Opel Astra; '08 Maser QP; '11 Mini Cooper S
http://www.howstuffworks.com/turbo.htm
if you are rough (or worse) on your basic piston engine familiarity, look on the same site for how engines work.
-Colin