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Honda Civic: Problems & Solutions
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I purchased the car about 10 months ago, and since I don't know when the timing belt was last changed, I thought I'd get a new one, and have them also look into this issue. The mechanic that performed the last change must have been an idiot. He didn't even reattach the upper timing cover properly.
I just wanted to get some input from the fine Honda experts that post on this board. I've learned so much just by lurking these posts.
P.S. I also have been hearing some valve noise. what is the recommended interval for valve adjustment? As long as they're removing the valve cover, I'll probably have them adjust the valves, too.
Thanks.
Valves get adjusted every 30k or when they are noisy.
Except for the possible timing belt misalignment and the valve noise, this 1994, 260,000 mile Civic runs pretty darn well, I must say.
Of course, since my tired have now been rotated, they make that warping noise when going over 60 mph now. I guess that means they were not balanced correctly when I picked up the car.....figures.
The sound occurs when the engine is under load (with or without the AC on) and usually when I first use it or after it has been used and sat for several hours before the next use. I am concerned that the sound is coming from what I've heard described as the "bottom of the engine". I had the Honda service dept. perform the 75K work on the car, which included valve adjustment, etc. and the sound was still there, just a bit softer (more like a rattling spark knock, but with a louder ticking or banging noise). Yesterday the loud knock/bang appeared again.
Someone mentioned to me that the oil in the valve area is "bleeding down" when the car is not in use.
Any other suggestions? I'm anxious to find some sort of solution since the problem is random and I'm not sure I'll be able to get the mechanic to hear the problem before the entire engine blows (which is what sounds like will happen if the problem can't be found and repaired.
Thanks for any suggestions anyone has for me.
http://www.auto.com/targetnews/articles/Automotive/08_29_2001.reutr-story-N29245479.html
You'd think they learned their lesson from the old exploding Pintos, but nooooo. Faulty tires. Improperly placed ignition coils. Defective seat belt latches. Not one self-initiated recall. Deny the existence of a problem until the govt steps in. That's their credo, apparently.
At least Honda admitted to a mistake and voluntarily corrected it BEFORE being forced to take action. I, for one, admire that.
Some Studebakers and Subarus had a "hill holder" that prevented this. Shouldn't be a big deal to just keep your foot on the brake?
Never take chances with your brakes.
It is not normal for brakes to "clank".
(The spell checker didn't recognize "Studebaker")
This has been happening for the last week or so, and I can't figure it out.
I don't think it would be the battery since it has plenty of juice when it does turn over, and it is only a couple of years old. Don't think it would be a dead spot on the starter because the car always starts eventually without tapping the starter or rocking the car. Could it be the ignition switch? Maybe the coil? Starter solenoid? Does anybody have any ideas for likely candidates? Thanks in advance.
Don't know if this is related, but today one time when I started the car it turned over and did not catch. I waited a few seconds and it started fine.
1. Get a second opinion.
2. Buy the tech manual. Chilton or the factory one.
3. Learn how to do your own brakes.
Pads and rotors can now be bought with lifetime warranty which mean you would never have to buy brakes again. Saving sveral hundreds of dollars in the long run. Brakes are not hard to do at all.
Our '97 Plymouth Grand Voyager SE 3.3 V-6 needed new front pads/rotors before 30k miles.
DCX does not cover the regular wear of the brake shoes, or rotors.
I was wondering if it is most likely in the sensor or the gauge. If it was a sensor problem, has anyone successfully repaired it? Or, did it have to be replaced? I want to avoid the $78 for a new one.
I definitely want to avoid having to remove the instrument cluster, so I hope it's the sensor either way.
The wiper switch stalk needs to be replaced, OEM part cost is $89 at local Honda parts counter.
I'll remove the sensor, and check the electrical connections and general condition. I'll clean it and reconnect it first, before going out and buying a new one.
Even if I have to buy a new sensor, it has to be easier than removing, repairing, and possibly replacing the speedometer and/or instument cluster.
The front end (engine?) (transmission?) (tires?) of my 2001 Civic LX has recently been making a whirring noise at highway speeds. The car has 6000 miles, mostly city driving. It is above 40 mph or so that I notice it; any ideas? It actually sounds kind of like a glass pack muffler, but not as loud, kind of rough, though. I did have one of those brain fades and put the car in park when it was still moving slightly at the supermarket a month or so ago. Could I have chipped a tooth on a transmission gear? I have the automatic. Thanks.
ride wid u n c da problem
Undo three screws under the steering collar, unsnap the two halves, turn the steering wheel to undo the two screws on wiper stem, pull the stem module out to the right, unplug the connector, and install new stem module.
My problem again was my wiper did not actuate when clicked to 'wipe' mode but it did when I fiddled with the stalk.
The wiper gets used alot here in Oregon, I'd figure it needed to be replaced after 10 years.
Tearing my hair out--Pat