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I changed the plugs, used Platinum plugs for the replacement.
As soon as the plugs were changed I noticed a “stutter” or misfire when accelerating from a stop.
The check engine light never came on.
I naturally thought it was related to the plugs so I replaced them again with the standard OEM plugs and the problem went away, for a while anyhow.
About 5000 miles later it started doing the same thing, now with the OEM plugs installed.
I then changed the plug wires and the problem, again, went away, for a while.
Now after another ~5000 miles I was driving and the check engine light came on, the misfire problem is back and now a bit worse.
The only OBDII code is P0301, Cyl #1 misfire nothing else.
I suspect the Ignition Coil.
Anyone have any suggestions?
Also would the coil be considered part of the emission system for warranty purposes?
Thanks
If so please reply to this thread. Its driving me nuts
TIA m
Pgp
Thanks
I would also replace the fuel filter.... did this myself....cost $13 had to undo 5 screws..... 1/2 hour work...... same car as yours..... 130K miles the old filter was probably working at 40%.....
My mechanic could never get a code on the engine light.......... I had the light go on off for 2 years! Now it's gone! :shades:
The filter housing part is 23-6731 in case you have a print out from mazda or anything. Just the plain old filter housing . I hope yours is the same as mine I know Mazda made a few changes mid year and some are different than others
Thx Mucho
PGP
Is it a four clylinder? I have the bills here the parts were FW 50-27-238 and list price was 6.60 each pre discount at Mazda dealer. It cost me less than $45 to have them installed and if you can find a decent mechanic to do them it might pay to go the correct route.
If you have the 4 banger could you look at my post above yours #1842 and answer the question I have posed there.
Thx Good Luck PGP
The mechanic said it is the seal between engine and transmission...he said to replace it would involve lifting out the transmission, which is why it was expensive. I didn't get an exact price,but he said it could be high hundreds due to labor costs. He just did a quick inspection on hoist as he was closing for long weekend, but so far he has been a fair and reasonable mechanic. I am guessing that it must not be the ones you are talking about...unless replacing them helps the other?
Odd part about it is about 6 weeks ago we drove just out of the city and back, and as we drove back noticed funny smell. Got home and tranny fluid was gushing out- could see the trail of it as I parallel parked, big pool under car. It had been filled a month previous, now almost empty. Filled it enough to get to garage, did tranny flush and wash, refilled with gasket sealer too, they could find no leak...they took it for lots of test drives, nothing. It has been fine until yesterday when I drove to the far end of the city and back, and saw leak (smaller, not a gusher). The problems seem to hapen when it is driven far (not fast- mostly city streets)...problem is I now need to drive it across the city a few times a week starting Wednesday!
Thanks for the reply
PS It is a 4 cyl. I will check mine later today and get back to you about the filter box.
I checked mine, and there is no gap. The box closes tight on all sides. I do know we have had trouble with it closing when we changed air filter...took some force...I think it is just a poorly made piece.
Well thats quite diiferent than what caused mine. Mine threw fluid after 2 hours high speed drivng and then on mountainous roads passing antoher car ( DOWNSHIFT). But driving far in your car could cause it to run at the high end of its heat range , like mine from high speed driving for 2 hours. It might pay to get a second look unless you really trust mechanic?
Its not so easy to tell when its on a lift. Might pay to wipe it all clean and take a second look. I also installed an external cooler on mine to keep tranny temp down. They only cost $50 and not too much to install and taht might keep temperature in normal range. As it gets hotter pressure increases also and really pushes fluid out. I had mine rebuilt 4 years and 16K miles ago, and rebuild guy told me the seals that went on mine are very common when running very hot . Then they almost close down again by themselves. ALMOST. After mine threw about 1/2 liter it didnt leak at all again for the 5 months till I got around to changing seals. I do not know if an engine seal would be the same. The tranny seals are like donuts. I am looking atthe haynes manual and they list Gasket leaks, Seal leaks, and Case leaks in that order.TRy degreasing the are wiping it dry driving for 15 minutes and then looking to find EXACTLY where the leak is from. Would hate to see you get srewed by an unscrupulous mechanic. Again I would suggest a second opinion, unless some one here suggest otherwise
Good Luck
PGP
Thanks again, good luck with yours.
Anyway I am now on the hunt for a used overflow tank. They dealer wants like $80 for a new one. my question/concern is whether this is a known problem (I have scoured the message board here and haven't really found anything on the overflow tank issue. If it is not a known issue, what can cause the overflow tank to split the seam like that in such a short span of time. Any help would be appreciated.
THANKS
Took it into CrappyTire (ie Canadian Tire), they have spent 3 hrs and don't know what the problem is!!! Go figure.
The "mechanic" says it turns over but doesn't fire. I thought it didn't turn over. As I crank the key it sounds as though it will start but doesn't "catch". A friend checked out the starter and it seemed fine.
Ideas???
Thanks.
Too bad it is at Crappy, they are trouble. If you have any way of taking it somewhere else, I would recommend it (I have a friend who used to work there, the stories he tells.....)
PGP
Would a lean air mixture cause loss of power in higher mountain ranges where air is even thinner?
Also could MAF being out of whack for 3 months cause the newer symptom I described on may last day leaving Greece (on the way to airport car was shuddering a little at around 65 MPH and higher) After my wife dropped me off symptoms persisted till she got back to city and lower speeds (45 MPH ) and then car seemd fine to her aside from CEL.
I am sending her back with new Filter and will examine closing of air filter box when I get back to Athens. Should I buy a new MAf just in case, and if the answer is yes, are the Bosch ones that I see online OK? Or do I need an OEM Mazda (remanufactured only ).
Thx a lot
PGP
Well, still leaks, but when it is a short drive barely at all, sometimes nothing...longer hauls it leaves its mark. I have been checking fluid levels regularily, and so far hasn't lost enough to make much of a dent. I have a few bottles of fluid in trunk, just in case. Haven't had a chance for a second opinion yet, and am keeping my eyes open for a used car, which will not be another mazda! Figured I will try something else for a while...need to spend some time looking at reviews. I am not sinking more money into this one, from everyone I have talked to, the repair is not a cheepie, have to life transmission out, so no way
Hopefully you are having better luck with yours.
Baby it and good luck. I will know more about mine when I get to Greece
PGP
alcan, "Got a Quick, Technical Question?" #2028, 13 Sep 2005 7:19 am
Host
Thanks for you help. :confuse:
thanks
My father says it has something to do with damp weather but heck, I need the car no matter what the weather is like.
Yesterday it started for a second and shut off. It makes the "starting" noises but just doesn't fire up completely. Does that sound like sparky issues?
Could someone please shed some light? I love this car but lately its grown too temperamental for me.
Thanking you in advance.
They are probably cheaply made. The problem with a leaky coolant overflow bottle in a V6 is that the A/C compressor clutch wiring harness connector is directly under the bottle and leaking coolant can get into the connector and cause all kinds of intermittent A/C problems. I packed the connector with dielecric grease to help prevent this.
I keep all my auto records, hopefully you do too.
Thanks In Advance
PGP
I've been following advice posted by others on this board and I'm running out of options. My '99 626 started to misfire a few days ago. It's done this in the past, but replacing the plugs solved it then. The latest set has been in for about 2 months and was replaced at the same time as the fuel filter. The problem only happens when accelerating. The code reads Cyl 1 misfire, but it feels more like all cylinders misfire at the same time when this happens. I cleaned the MAF earlier tonight. It was pretty clean and did not solve the problem. I'll replace the year old plug wires tomorrow but doubt if that will fix it. Any other suggestions for what seems to be a common problem.
Kind thanks
Chr B.
Regards
Chr B.