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Gets good spark. Fuel pump passed jumper test.
Battery, batt cables, and grounds good! Cranks all day just wont start! Please help!
Anyone have thoughts on this?
Well it looks like the old girl had no problem in the mountains since changing the MAF either. She had her usual power and even had a kick down at 75 MPH on an upgrade. Engine running like a top now.
Back to my question in post #1933 above would you please look at the 2 links I have posted,because I am a little confused. Is the difference just the manufacturer, or are there different parts in the MONROE versus the KYB kit.They do not have the same name and I do not want to buy the wrong parts when I get back to USA, and then bring them back to Greece to be installed.
Thanks again
PGP
fuel tank empty, leaking fuel injectors,faulty fuel pump,pressure regulator etc, fuEL not reaching rail, ignition components damp or damaged , broken loose or disconnected wiring in the starting circuit, loose distributor changing the timing,broken loose or disconnected wires at coilor bad coil, broken or stripped timing belt , defective fuel pump REL;AY AND OR HARNESS AT RELAY. HAVE YOU CHECKED THIS LAST ONE ?
Hope this helps.
PGP
It's really inconvenient this time of year, not having light when you open the door. Anyone have experience or a manual to help us out? Thanks...
james
Just be careful and try prying them off at the corner first would be my suggestion. The book also suggests disconnectiung battery or working with door closed so as not to have to handle hot bulbs. Ifyiou disconnect battry always disconnect negative side is suggested.If all 3 are out maybe its a fuse. Actually I would check for a fuse first in any event.
good Luck PGP
james
1. Installing new spak plugs and plug wires every 60K miles
2. Using only premium fuel (name brand like Mobil, BP). This car likes to run on premium fuel. You get better mileage and much better performance, so it comes out even.
3. Using Chevron Techron injector cleaner about every 4K miles (one Bottle per 10 gallons of gas in the tank).
4. Cleaning the throttle body and intake manifold EGR passages regularly. There are two EGR passages in the intake manifold just behind the TB. These will eventually get plugged with carbon and you get an "EGR insuffiecinet flow" trouble code (engine check light comes on).
Every time I go to buy some parts at my local Mazda dealer, I hear people complaining about bad mileage, hesitation, poor performance. And when they ask about what fuel they are using , the answer is alsmost always the same: the cheapest 87 octane they can find. Take my advice: if you have a V6, it will perform much better on premium. Mazda recommends premium in this car. When you use the 93 octane in this car, the following happens: the engine computer is able to advance the ignition timing more before the knock occurs. The knock sensor is tied into the system and prevent the ignition from being advanced too far. When running this car on 93 octane, my fuel economy increased by 2 MPG over using 89 octane (never tried 87 in this car).
I hope I convinced somebody to try this approach. BTW, replacing the spark plug wires every 60K miles is highly recommended in this vehicle. The reason is that this is double overhead cam engine. The plugs are located deeply inside the head between cams and spark plug lead boots are very long and subjected to extreme heat. As the boots degrade, so does the ignition performance. Use the OEM plug wires.
At 134K miles my car runs like new, has very strong throttle response, even at high speeds. It is not enough to try 93 octane once or twice - use it all the time, do other things I recommended, maybe have your injectors cleaned professionally. You should see good results in a few months.
I got lucky again and the Mazda guy here in Greece removed and pulled the mount apart, and happened to have 3 bearings that were the right ones. He said, and I was watching while they worked (very professional I might add) that the seat and everything else looked fine.
Heres a case when catching something early saves time and money. My question is do I still need an alignment ?
Thx again Pal
PGP
P.S.Car spinning like a top for the time being
my Mazda 626 ( 2.0 i GLX year 95) didn't start properly this morning. The engine turned over, but switched off again immediately. After 5,6 attempts it started, but while driving it startles occasionally, but carries on driving. The idle is slightly rough and I have a funny smell coming from the engine. Any suggestions? I thought about the fuel pump, but then it wouldn't go at all.
Thank you very much
schnad :confuse:
need to keep this thing running for as long as possible.
Also read, read, read and get to know about similar problems in your car, that I hope you do not develop. Also a Hyanes manual at an auto parts store for $20 or so is a good investment IMHO. Also there are other good 626 forums to browse through.
Best Of Luck
PGP
Some people think synthetic will speed up oil leaks around seals and if you are burning oil might not be a good idea, because it is expensive and you might save your $$ for repairs.
Do a search in these forums for Oil Burning or leaking if you find that you are doing one or the other, to estabilish which is the culprit.
PGP
Here is a site to read about some 626 4 cyl auto transmission problems:
http://www.carsurvey.org/viewmorecomments_review_17103_1.html
http://www.dustbury.com/626/trans.html
1. The power windows will work if I open with the driver door open. After that they work fine until I cut the car off.
2. I have an alarm system on the car and for some reason, it will now only unlock the driver's door. After I open the driver door the rest of the doors will unlock.
3. When I drive the car in feels like I'm tapping the gas pedal. Its sorta hard to explain in words but if you the RPM dial, it is never constant, it just sorta bounces up and down and I feel that in the car. A few times it gets so bad the car is jerky.
If you know the solution to any of the please problems, I really don't want to get of my baby.
http://www.haydenauto.com/hdoilcoolers.htm
Search for best prices. I ordered online and saved $10 or more
PGP
PGP
2 transmissions, the fuse box, weather-stripping around the trunk, front windshield (cracked in a wind-storm), codes kept misfiring so it cost me $90 each time I took it to the dealership to get reset because of my warranty, actuator rod inside of the driver's side door (couldn't open from the outside), radio, the A/C swivel vents, and last but not least the rear passenger-side strut. The question here is: "did I buy a lemon?" The answer is of course "yes". But that's okay. Since my warranty expired, I have finally been able to do what I want to under the hood. So far, I've been able to fix my own stuff (since a warranty prevents that sort of thing). Also, I've even tuned, perfected, and added a turbo to my inline 4. It gets about as much power as the V6 model, but I didn't install it for performance, I installed it for two reasons; one, to help save on gas (if used properly), and two, to help when I try to merge or pass vehicles on the highway. Don't worry, I don't have one of those lawnmower mufflers that you see so much of on todays streets. My car is quick and quiet, and it appears stock. I love my 626, it just disappoints me when a person my age at the time (20) buys a brand new car only to have so many proplems with it and can't touch anything under the hood to fix it because of warranty purposes (even the things not covered under warranty, but not notified of until a service bill is issued).
So the question is what type of supercharger did you install and is this 4 basically the same as my 94 4 cylinder? Mine is basically a Ford Probe second generation with a ford tranny. Now that I can access codes I feel confident in playing with it further.
The mechanics were not really at fault because this car has a bastardized Ford EEC iv diagnostic sytem which is not the same as the Mazda nor the Ford diagnostic system. Only thru diligent work and a little luck did I find out how to get the codes from a site Dali Design that is no longer working.
Supercharger where and how much?
Any thoughts to the durability of it in mountainous country ?
Thx PGP
Uh-oh... LOL
Hey guys,
wondering if someone could give me some advice, have been reading the threads and posts, have read so many similar yet different problems to mine,
Car runs fine UNTIL under half a tank of petrol,
you turn a left corner, and car is fine, turn a right corner and cuts out, still idles but no throttle for anywhere between 2-8 seconds? under 1/4 of a tank of petrol car wants to cut out and drops revs causing to stall EVEN in a straight line however but never this problem whist turning left?.
(makes no difference in applying different throttle pressure around corners or in a straight line)
have put car on blocks so both front wheels are off the ground (no gravity pull/tank slap) and doesnt do it at all no matter what the fuel tank is holding. have also gone driving with fuel filler cap off whist under half a tank incase of vacuum problem no difference. we think it is one of the following:-
Fuel Pump in fuel tank, have drained
fuel tank and no guts or grime in tank clean as a whistle.
Distributor - seems clean have pulled apart and back together.
Has anyone heard or expirenced this problem? any advice would be muchly appreciated
:sick: Cheers shaun :sick:
spuddy@iinet.net.au or please reply to this forum either way any response will be helpful.
PGP
PGP
And you can see, I am advising the guy a few posts above about his CV joints being the possible culprit. I think I learned that from you.
Greece Or NYC dinners on me .Getting there is on you LOL
The guy who worked on plugs told me to use premium gas. So I did that. Went to a couple of gas tanks. I am not sure if I noticed any improvments.
Anyways this weekend it felt like that the problem is back my hesitated for like 5 second and I think gave the same shock/jerk only once.
So I took it it the local shop who did check asked me to put another fuel injector and replaced the PVC valve.
Where do you usually get the Fuel injection service. My dealer told me that they would charge 150$. I read that there are professional home cleaning system do they work?
Also, it is necessary to periodically clean the EGR valve outlet passages in the intake manifold (just behind the throttle body). They clog with carbon with time.
Does anyone think that using this injector cleaner is adviseable in a car that is running well.
Alcan, Mr Shifright jump right in. I asked my Mazda mechanic in Greece and he thought that you could dislodge or cause a problem in a car thats running fine for 55K miles. If its not broke dont fix it, or can performance be restored in your opinions?
Thx Guys
Peter
Pete's advice above is pretty solid. I've never had any problems using injector cleaner on higher mileage cars other than a slightly more noticeable clicking from the injectors as the buildup dissolves fron the pintles.
The mountain LOL