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Comments
I have a 2000 Bonneville SLE. Each and every time it rains or snows, the car takes a good 3 seconds to begin stopping. (Very scary in an emergency stop). However, after they "warm" up (or dry out), they have no issues stopping. If I drive for about 10 minutes, they again take a good 3 seconds to begin stopping. Though when it is dry out, there are no problems.
The problem seemed to be getting worse so I took the car into the shop and had the brakes completely redone -- all pads and rotors completely replaced. The dealer said they had a lot of glazing, but otherwise they couldn't see anything. Well, the problem is better, but it is still there.
When it rains or snows, it now takes only a good full second to begin stopping. There has been a previous posting on this #546 with the same problem description. The answer to that posting stated that it was probably just due to very heavy rain. However in the exact same weather, this does not happen in my other car. In fact, it doesn't have to be raining very hard at all for this problem to occur. This seems to be an issue with this car only.
Does anyone know of a solution?
Were the brakes that we put on original equipment quality? I used Raybestos OEM on my 98 and it was a world of difference from the long life Raybestos I had used on my other car. These felt sticky as soon I touched the pedal.
Could it be a booster problem?
Post over in 'got a quick technical question.' Alcan there may have heard of this problem before.
crankshaft "Got a Quick, Technical Question?" Apr 3, 2004 11:54pm
2014 Malibu 2LT, 2015 Cruze 2LT,
Since I felt it was a dangerous situation, I made sure that the pad, shoes and rotors were completely replaced with OEM parts from GM. I did not use 3rd party equipment. It helped, but it is still there and quite noticeable. (Maybe cross drilled rotors would make a difference???). I have heard of other Bonneville owners having this same issue too. I would assume that would be a serious safety issue...
I will also post in that other forum to see what others may have to say.
Thanks, I'll keep looking into it.
WN
Is this a recall on the 3800 engine or just a TSB, and does the car have to be leaking or just in warranty?
Anyone with experience?
I am the proud owner of a 1996 Bonneville SSEi that I love. The car currently is in need of front and rear struts. I priced these items at a nearby Pontiac dealership and almost fainted at the quote of $301 each for front, $477 each for rear. I searched GM Parts direct and did not find the items. I have the electronic ride control system.
Is there somewhere I can obtain these parts without my wallet needing surgery??
Porblem#2 When car is cold i hear a noise like a bad waterpump or marble bouncing around for the first 2-3 minutes upon start up. I have a new water pump. Noise sounds like its on driver side. I took a long screw driver with my ear on the handle and listen to all engine compenents with negative results.I hear the noise near air filter and when i put my ear on air filter is sounds louder.
Problem#3 When a/c or defrost is on the secondary fan(passenger side) vibrates very hard upon start up and slight vibration at running speed.I changed the motor thinking shaft was bent.
Problem#4 Intake manafold plenum-I had a leak at plastic nipple from intake to tensioner but i got it replaced. I like to know where most leaks occur. I have no leaks now but noticed intake plenum warped about 1/8 of inch where it mounts to throttle body between the mounting bolts.
Porblem#2 When car is cold i hear a noise like a bad waterpump or marble bouncing around for the first 2-3 minutes upon start up. I have a new water pump. Noise sounds like its on driver side. I took a long screw driver with my ear on the handle and listen to all engine compenents with negative results.I hear the noise near air filter and when i put my ear on air filter is sounds louder.
Problem#3 When a/c or defrost is on the secondary fan(passenger side) vibrates very hard upon start up and slight vibration at running speed.I changed the motor thinking shaft was bent.
Problem#4 Intake manafold plenum-I had a leak at plastic nipple from intake to tensioner but i got it replaced. I like to know where most leaks occur. I have no leaks now but noticed intake plenum warped about 1/8 of inch where it mounts to throttle body between the mounting bolts.
#2. Try running it (for a short time) with the serpentine belt removed to eliminate any belt driven accessories.
#4. They like to leak where you noticed the warp, behind the throttle body. The EGR tube heats the plastic causing the warpage. It'll eventually fill the valley with coolant, then start ingesting it. Can cause the engine to hydrolock, and antifreeze mixed with engine oil will eventually take out the bottom end.
http://www.northernautoparts.com/ProductModelDetail.cfm?ProductMo- - delId=9088
Thanks for the info.
There has got to be someplace that sells structs at a more realistic price than GM.
Luvmybonne
When the brake pedal is depressed, the torque converter clutch releases. There is no longer a mechanical connection between the engine and transaxle, and an ignition misfire is less noticeable.
Im am looking fix why it is cutting off first.
by reading I am assuming the it is the tcc solenoid, but I am not sure. to fix the tcc solenoid the mechanic told me $504 and to fix the egr pintle $265 does this sound about right
if anyone has any knowledge about this please give me some advise.
"My problem is that my Bonnie has the "shudders and shakes" sometimes when I accelerate from a dead stop. I mean it doesn't happen when I gradually pull off from a light or stop, just when I gun it. It will shake and shudder real hard for a few seconds then I let up off the gas and it runs fine. Well today I was on the highway cruising about 70 and I felt a what can be best be describes as a grab, like the transmission just skipped a beat or something.
My Bonneville is a 1994 model automatic transmission,457 miles with the 3.8 engine. All services have been done regularly."
If the shudder is also evident when the torque converter locks up around 35-40 mph, I'd start by looking at plug wires,plugs, and coils. If it's only there on hard accel from a stop, try pulling away in Drive instead of OD. In OD, a mechanical sprag clutch transfers torque into the transaxle's gearset. They've been known to start slipping and will cause a bad shudder as they grab/release/grab/release. In Drive, a multi disc clutch is also applied. It takes up some of the torque load and prevents the shudder.
If this works, it's time for the transaxle to come out.
Try what I suggested, hard accel in Drive instead of OD and see if the symptoms disappear. That'd help diagnose it.
when I got the car back I made to my house which was less than a mile away when I went to leave again the car wouldnt start I finally got it started than it cutt off again and stayed off for 30 mins. of course the repair shop was close I took it back the following day they looked at it made some minor adjustments and told me it would work again. the next couple of days the car would cut off several times after it heated up than finally would run.
After being so sick and tired of cutting off in the middle of the road in front of people I took it back and demanded that they fix the damn problem or give me my money back. I also sat and watch them work on it. It was never the solenoid the problem was the crank sensor and some valves needed clean and experienced mechanic would have picked this up immediately
2014 Malibu 2LT, 2015 Cruze 2LT,
2014 Malibu 2LT, 2015 Cruze 2LT,
it has been fully charged anf the controller is brand new(986bucks)at my local A/C shop, Whats next!
ALSO
Why does my car stall while turning or after letting off the accelerator?
When warm: upon starting the engine, the rpm is at 900 rpm for a few seconds, but then goes to 1100 rpm for a few seconds and then gradually goes to about 1200 rpm after about 30 seconds if I don't place the transmission in gear. Once in gear the engines idles at 675 rpm. This always occurs when the car is completely warmed up and the outside temp is in the 70 or 80s. Is this normal behavior?
When cold: when starting the engine, the engine initially idles at 1100 briefly, then jumps to 1300 rpm and then gradually rises to 1500 rpm. After that it takes a few minutes for the idle to lower itself to 1100 rpm where it would stay for a very long time. But at this point I place the car in gear. Once the engine is warm the car will idle at 675 rpm.
I bought the car used with 53,000 miles and have since replaced the plugs and wires and the usual "tune-up" parts. To help solve the idle issue, I also replaced the idle control valve and removed and cleaned the throttle-body. This didn't help the idle issue, but it sure did increase the engine's performance.
Any suggestions or comments to my problem would be greatly appreciated.
Slips, Harsh Upshift or Garage Shifts, Launch Shudders, Flares, Erratic Shifts and Intermittent Concerns, DTC P1811 or P0748 Set (Replace Pressure Control Solenoid Valve Assembly) #00-07-30-002B - (Jul 19, 2002)
1997-1999 Buick Riviera
1997-2002 Buick Park Avenue
1998-2002 Buick LeSabre
1999-2002 Buick Regal
2000-2002 Buick Century
2002 Buick Rendezvous
1997-2001 Chevrolet Lumina
1997-2002 Chevrolet Monte Carlo
1999-2002 Chevrolet Venture
2000-2002 Chevrolet Impala
1997- 1999 Oldsmobile Eighty Eight
1997-2002 Oldsmobile Silhouette
1998-2002 Oldsmobile Intrigue
2001-2002 Oldsmobile Aurora (3.5L)
1997-2002 Pontiac Bonneville, Grand Prix
1999-2002 Pontiac Transport/Montana
2001-2002 Pontiac Aztek
with Hydra-Matic 4T65-E (RPOs MN3, MN7, M15, M76)
This bulletin is being revised to add additional models and model years. Please discard Corporate Bulletin Number 00-07-30-002A (Section --Automatic Transmission).
Condition
Some owners of the above vehicles with a Hydra-Matic 4T65-E transaxle may comment on harsh upshifts or harsh garage shifts, soft shifts, shudders on hard acceleration, or shifts erratic. These conditions may appear intermittently or set a DTC P1811 or P0748. During diagnosis, a low or high line pressure (actual versus desired) may be observed.
Cause
The above condition may be due to any one of the following which may affect line pressure output:
Sediment inside the pressure control (PC) solenoid valve, causing the PC solenoid valve to mechanically bind.
Sediment in the valve body, causing the torque signal regulator valve to stick.
Incorrect transaxle oil level.
Correction
Important
Any of the above conditions may be intermittent, therefore, this test should be performed at least three times.
Refer to the Line Pressure Check Procedure in SI, along with the Line Pressure Specification Table below, to determine if actual versus desired pressures are within the values specified. The Scan Tool is only able to control the PC solenoid valve in PARK and NEUTRAL with the vehicle stopped. This protects the clutches from extremely high or low pressures in DRIVE or REVERSE ranges.
Yadda, yadda, yadda........
it has been fully charged anf the controller is brand new. Whats next!
it has been fully charged anf the controller is brand new. Whats next!
Update
I took it to my local AC shop they are telling me the compressor, accumlator and the expansion valve need to be replaced. Does this sound correct the quote for the work 900-1100 bucks.