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and asking there for suggestions.
Does the pedal seem to stick when you start to move it to accelerate from a dead stop? My 98 had carbon buildup around the butterfly valve that made it do funny things at idle, but it never stalled out completely.
Go to Technical Questions and see if Alcan, a mechanic with great knowledge, can help you find it without a garage repair bill.
2014 Malibu 2LT, 2015 Cruze 2LT,
They have replaced the exhaust pipes and muffler, crossover-pipe, rear manifold and the flexible downpipe connector (twice) and still I have the noise.
After the last repair attempt (the manifold replacement) and the noise is still there, the mechanic told me he has been checking other pontiac vehicles with the 3.8L engine and claims they all have the same noise, but the owners are not complaining.
I find it hard to believe that all these vehicles have the same noise I am hearing and are not complaining about it. Does anyone else notice this type of noise? (to me, it sounds like an old tractor running, but only on acceleration under load).
I still have no idea why the power Windows stop working. It always happens at the same time engine won't start, power Windows don't work.
In the past it started working again after a switch some relays but now nothing. Any ideas?
Thanks.
dunk, "Got a Quick, Technical Question?" #1233, 26 Mar 2005 9:04 am
to see if Alcan has a suggestion of what to start checking.
2014 Malibu 2LT, 2015 Cruze 2LT,
You might post in
dunk, "Got a Quick, Technical Question?" #1233, 26 Mar 2005 9:04 am
and see if Alcan responds. Youmight search the discussion for help with rear disc brakes on GM cars...
2014 Malibu 2LT, 2015 Cruze 2LT,
Thanks for the help. Oh, BTW, don't remove the emergency brake cable from the caliper. If you remove the hold downs for the cable and don't remove cable end, the caliper is free to remove and manipulate.
P0336 Crankshaft Position Sensor A Circuit Range/Performance
Might be a combination of crankshaft position sensor and needing fresh plugs and wires, but could also be a problem with the ignition control module (under the coils). I'd start by replacing the plugs and wires (AC Delco only) if they're original. Here's some diagnostic info from GM:
Diagnostic Aids
An intermittent may be caused by a poor connection, rubbed through wire insulation or a wire broken inside the insulation. Check for the following conditions:
Important
Rotate the engine crankshaft until the 18X sensor has a voltage greater than 4 volts before performing any Diagnostic Aids.
Poor connection at the PCM, ignition control module, or CKP sensor. Inspect the harness and connectors for improper mating, broken locks, improperly formed or damaged terminals, and poor terminal to wire connection.
Damaged harness. Inspect the wiring harness for damage. If the harness appears to be OK, disconnect the PCM, turn the ignition on and observe a voltmeter connected to the 18X reference circuit at the PCM harness connector while moving connectors and wiring harnesses related to the ICM. A change in voltage will indicate the location of the malfunction.
Incorrect harness routing near secondary ignition components.
Secondary ignition wire(s) arcing to wiring harness. Check secondary ignition wires for carbon tracking or other signs of damage.
Malfunctioning Ignition Coil. Remove the ignition coils and inspect the ignition control module and coils for cracks, carbon tracking, or other signs that indicate that the coil secondary circuit is arcing to the ICM or ICM wiring harness
There also was a ground connection to the left of the driver's seat under the carpet. That one was just where your left arm would hang straight down sitting in the driver's seat. There was a raised area in the carpet for about 8-10 inches for the box. That one was more suspect for me because it would get moisture into it from window open and getting in and out during rains/snow and moisture in carpet keeping that area humid.
I never dug into there-my wife made me trade the car for a new Celebration in RED.
2014 Malibu 2LT, 2015 Cruze 2LT,
ground block just a little bit ahead of the door jam ,in a coduit wraped in tape ,I removed the bus plate and cleaned ,now everything works great.
Thank You vary much...
For the past few months I have noticed coolant loss in my 2002 Bonneville. It empties the reservoir tank but the rad has never been low. I have checked oil for coolant but it is not obviously visible in the oil. I have had the throttle body nuts replaced etc. but that didn't solve the problem. I have had a lifter noise occur occasionally but it always went away quickly. But last week I started the car and the noise was really loud and the car started missing and running really rough. I noticed the oil pressure gauge fluctuating between normal mid point and the 3/4 mark. My mechanic checked the oil - no visible coolant - pulled the valve covers and said 3 or 4 of the lifters were collapsed. He put the car back together then started it - no noise - and parked it. When I arrived, he started it and noise was back! Anyone else have the same problem? GM assume any responsibility? The car has 113,000km on it.
Thanks
Frank
p.s. I accidentally posted the above in 'Messages'
section. Sorry
First: I have an intermittent "SECURITY" light. I've been told that it's due to a faulty "ignition module" or a wire or wires going bad in that module, which causes the key chip not to be fully recognised. The car starts on the first try 99.99% of the time, but there's been five occasions that I had to turn the key 30-40-50 times or more to get it to start (usually it's at the worst possible time, like in a bad neighbourhood or when I HAVE to be somewhere). What I'd like to know is what EXACTLY is the problem, what part or parts require replacing, and where I can find repair/replacement information. Also, if it's just a bad wire or wires, can I resolder or replace just the wires? Will this screw up the resistance of the security system's electrics?
Second: I have an intermittent "SES" light (so the dealership says, I call it "check engine" light, because that's what the light says). I do not remember the error code, but I was told it was due to a faulty oxygen sensor. I replaced it, but the same problem still occurred. When I took it to the dealer, they said that I installed the "wrong brand" of sensor - but didn't tell me the right brand. I believe the one I put in was a Bosch. What brand of sensor should I get, and where can I get it cheapest?
Third: My car has the AM/FM stereo head unit w/ CD player & EQ. The radio works fine, but whenever I try to play a CD it skips so badly that it's unlistenable - I have to eject it immediately. Dealership told me to "clean the laser lens", which I've done 20 times - literally. Still same problem. Is this fixable? If I have to replace the head unit, I do not know if the "theftlock" code has ever been entered (I haven't done it, but it was a used car when I bought it). Is there a procedure I can use, or someone I can call, to clear out any possible code on this?
Fourth: I have the 60,000 mile checkup to do now. Things I plan to work on: changing brake pads/shoes, oil & filter, cleaning fuel injection system, trans filter, gasket, flush, & refill, check & replace spark plugs & wires if necessary, check timing belt/chain (don't know what it has), replace fuel filter. As this is my first time working on this car, I'd appreciate some tips on the above - best brands of parts to use, procedures, etc. Is the injection system cleanable at home? What's the easiest method to de/repressurize the fuel system? If I can't clean the injection system myself, can I just take the fuel rails & etc. to a shop for cleaning, at a reduced expense? What's the correct solvent(s) to use to clean these injectors & other items, if it is home cleanable?
Fifth: I have a couple of issues with my front doors. The drivers' door's key cylinder has fallen into the bottom of the door (broken clip or ?), and the outside power mirror shakes & wobbles during driving, making it VERY difficult to see in the mirror. The passenger door sticks quite a bit trying to open it - including the door handle. I've tried lubing the weatherstripping seals, and the door handle (what I could get to, anyway). This helps for about a week, then it starts sticking again. Suggestions on the sticking door? Anyone know what part(s) I might need for the driver's mirror and the key cylinder? Also, where do I get replacement water deflector plastic and adhesive if necessary, and what do I need to ask for?
Sixth, and last (for now): I have several large spots on my paint (middle of front roof, both rear corners of roof, both front corners of trunklid) that have a burned, oxidized appearance. Is there a method I can use myself, short of repainting the entire car, to restore these areas? I've thought of using "FLITZ for paint", either by hand or on a random orbit buffer on low speed. I am not very experienced with painting cars, but I do know a little bit. I'd like to avoid the expense of repainting the entire car, as I'm on a limited, fixed income - but I'd still like to be proud of my car's appearance again. These "spots" started to appear about four months after I bought the car (at a reputable dealer, where family worked at the time), and it was waxed & taken care of. Any suggestions here?
I greatly appreciate any and all assistance with these issues. There just doesn't seem to be a lot of info on Bonnevilles out there!
Frank
The breaking of the wires was caused by putting the tilt wheel up and down. I always put it all the way up and all the way down when I got in. ON my newer cars, I don't put the wheel up and down as much. Want to avoid the $200 cost... the 93 had 100K + on it when that happened.
As for cleaning the injection system, I'd just use a couple of tanks with Techron fuel system cleaner added. Buy it at Advanced Auto or Meijers discount stores or whereevere. Run tank nearly empty. Put in Techron, add enough gallons to equal what it says the size bottle is for (12 and 20 sizes???) and run till nearly empty and repeat. Do not so more than two cycles. Use premium brand fuel when filling the car up to the 12 gal. or 20 gal.
That should solve many problems unless you've got a major injector problem.
2014 Malibu 2LT, 2015 Cruze 2LT,
Testing each wire for continuity would require a needle poked in at each end of the wire and check for resistance of 0 ohms.
Out of curiosity, do the interior lights come on if one of the other doors is opened? Or do they just work with the dash switch? If they don't work with another door, would the problem be in just the driver's door? Would it keep all doors from working?
I have a 93 LeSabre manual. I could try to check for color code on the wire in the bundle that are related to door locks and interior light grounding.
2014 Malibu 2LT, 2015 Cruze 2LT,
Does anyone know what could be the cause to these problems and how much having them fixed would cose.
Any feedback appreciated :confuse:
Document ID# 360971, 1998 Pontiac Bonneville, Fog Lights Circuit Description
When the park lights are activated, battery positive voltage (B+) is supplied to the foglamp switch through CKT 9 (BRN). Battery positive voltage (B+) is supplied at all times to the switch side of the fog lamps relay position A in the RH IP fuse block through the IP fuse block FOG LPS fuse and CKT 1440 (ORN). With the foglamp switch in the ON position, battery positive voltage (B+) is supplied to the coil of the fog lamps relay position A through CKT 317 (YEL). The coil receives ground from the lamp control module (LCM). With the fog lamps relay position A coil energized, the coil contacts close, supplying battery positive voltage (B+) to the fog lamps. Turning on the high beam headlights produces the following effects:
The LCM removes the ground from the fog lamps relay position A.
The fog lamps turn OFF
The crazy oil pressure readings from the DIC are due to a failed oil pressure sending unit. I have a 2004 Lesabre Limited that, without warning, started showing psychotic oil pressure numbers; they'd race high, then low, then high, all the while causing the dash warnings to ping and wail. Bottom line was that actual engine oil pressure was fine. The dealer replaced the sending unit with no question or problem, and the problem was solved.
-David
Lately the ABS and Traction have been kicking out without throwing codes. You guessed it, more corroded wires.
Hope this helps someone before they soend all the money I did.
2014 Malibu 2LT, 2015 Cruze 2LT,
With any model of vehicle, certain problems surface often enough to become "pattern failures", they tend to follow a pattern and make diagnosis easier.
"does anyone have a 96 bonneville that when the traction control is on, and it is wet or slick, and when the tires spin, you hear a god awful sound from the front end, but then if you turn off the traction, it will not do that anymore. What could that be a sign of, basically i see my traction control as useless now"
When the ABS/Traction Control module senses wheelspin from a wheel speed sensor, it first sends a torque reduction request to the powertrain control module. The PCM responds by retarding ignition timing and shutting off up to 3 of the fuel injectors to reduce available torque to the drive wheels. If this doesn't work (it usually doesn't), the ABS/TCM then provides brake intervention. It turns on a pump and motor in the brake hydraulic modulator which then provides rapid brake apply pulses to the affected wheel. Gets the wheel back under control but beats the **** out of the drivetrain. I usually have it shut off on my Riviera because I can visualize what it's doing to those expensive CV joints and the differential.