Well after five years of dependable service, my battery finally bit the dust. In the Florida heat, they don't usually last this long, but I suppose having the battery under the rear seat helps extend its life. So it actually wasn't that much of a surprise to find corrosion under the battery when I went to remove it this morning. What was a surprise is that the corrosion ate through the floor pan. After I poked around with a screwdriver, there now is a ragged two-inch hole in the floor near the corner of where the battery sits. I guess this is a problem with the 2000-2005 LeSabre, Deville, Bonneville and (2000-2003) Aurora, as there is not only a TSB but also a repair kit replacement floor pan.
My question is, has anyone else had this problem? If so, what did you do to repair it? Does anyone know exactly what is involved in using the repair kit? From what I gather, the kit is (list) priced at over $400, plus several hours of labor. Yikes. I'm guessing they cut out the entire section and somehow bond the repair panel in place.
For now, I cleaned the pan, used a rust remover and re-painted the area on the inside of the car. I also applied some aluminum tape over the hole to keep water out. Since the floor pan still seems pretty solid, I will hope that it will not corrode any more and that the battery won't fall through the floor someday. It probably should be repaired properly, but I just don't want to spend the money right now (or maybe ever!). I'm wondering if GM had installed a simple corrosion-resistant tray under the battery that it would have saved a bigger problem from occurring later. Hmmm...
I have had the exact same thing happen to my car. I have a 2003 Final 500 Oldsmobile Aurora. I have only had it for a little over two years and it only has about 615 miles on it. I found the evidence of the corrosion on the weekend before Memorial Day weekend. I keep the car stored in a storage unit and I went to drive it on a impromptu trip out of town for the day. I found ashes under the car on the floor and took the back seat out to check in the battery area. Sure enough, acid had leaked from the battery and eaten through the floorpan to the outside of the car. My battery had not been holding its charge for several weeks like it used to and I had to begin boosting it off a lot even with going to start up the car every few weeks to keep the battery charged. It dawned on me then that this is reason for the battery drain.
I went and printed the TSB information on the problem from the GM Techlink March 2005 newsletter on their service website(don't have access to the actual TSBs) and took it to the dealer the next Monday morning. It took them 3 weeks to get the repair kit(on backorder at the time) and three weeks to get around to fixing my car at the body shop. They also put in a new battery. It was all done under warranty. I cannot tell you what all they did, but it now looks like it never had the problem in the first place to me. I hope I don't ever have the problem again.
I was not happy at all about this happening because I have been trying to keep the car in collectible condition and keeping the miles off the car. I feel like it has ruined my car and could lower the value of my car because of the body repair if it truly becomes a collectible one day (I hope!!)
However, this should bring us both some comfort that we are not alone in having this unnecessary problem and at least GM has a fix for it and did not ignore it. I'm just glad that it happened early for me and did not cost me anything but some time without my car and some gas to get it fixed.
I have a 99 Bonneville SE 3.8 V6. Had just replaced the intake manifold and went for a test drive and things seemed fine then suddenly got a high pitched squealing noise. Had trouble isolating but seemed tied to power steering so replaced the unit. nope. so now on on a seeming random basis with the engine hot when you slow to an idle a low squeek squeek squeek will start, go into a loud high pitched squeal and then suddenly stop.
This may seem like a rather lengthy read but please bear with me. My wife owns a 94 Bonneville SE that she bought from her parents. Her parents had the same problems with the car but now after a few years the problem is worstened. I will try to explain everything and I ask for your opinions, trials and tribulations.
The car to me drives if it has a clogged catalytic converter ( best explanation). It bogs when you give it gas, at any speed, and stutters when taking off. Also it takes awhile to get up to cruising speed. If , when braking, I keep the idle at 1500 rpm and take off the stuttering is not present but all else is. The best way to get up to speed is by lightly applying gas pressure. Sometimes while getting up to speed, if you let off the gas you increase speed better.
Okay......now that you think you got it let me get on with the rest.
When her parents owned the vehicle, nearly everything under the hood was replaced including the ecu. The only thing that was never replaced by them was the fuel injectors, which I recently did myself with refurbished/cleaned injectors.
None of these things have done the trick. Another thing I need to add is that we recently took the vehicle for a diagniostics test by a dealership, and our backyard mechanic, whom is also a very good professional mechanic by day. What the dealers comprehensive test shown is that our car is perfect except the ecu. Our personal mechanic used a MAC TOOL diagnostic tester and his also pointed out the ecu.The code his tester showed are as follows....p 1406, p1670, and p1640. The 1406 is because the EGR is not responding properly to commands from the PCM. The 1670 Is the drver 4 and the 1640 error is for the quad driver module. Our solution.....buy a new one. Her father paid $1200 for an ecu when he replaced it and that didn't repair the problem. We paid $130 3 weeks ago and this didn't solve the problem so we returned it. Yes, you heard correctly.......don't mess with a po'd scorpio woman with car problems. Now with that all said, several people seem to think that it may be due to bad electrical. Also, the wife found another read that sounded identicle to what her problem is and they replaced the booster control solenoid and the problem cleared itself.
Let me know any suggestions or testimonies please. Thanks. Bummed out hubby of a Bonneville owner.
Thanks for the report, Bryant. Not to the extent of your Aurora, but my 2000 SSEi has very low miles as I only use it as a second vehicle -- just under 17,000 in five-plus years. So it's out of warranty and from experience I don't expect batteries to live longer than that here in Florida. My mistake was not checking on it sooner before the corrosion got this bad, but until a few weeks ago I never had a cranking problem with the battery either. A little voice was telling me I was due, though. Up until I sold it last year, I had been through three batteries in five years on my Tahoe -- and each one leaked acid too. Glad to hear your Aurora is all fixed up, and I wouldn't worry too much about the repair. As long as it was a good repair, no one will ever be the wiser (other than you). From my experience with the Bonneville, after a few years other things start to go bad, either from lack of use or just age, so far mostly cosmetic things like the trim pieces losing adhesion, etc. I don't think cars these days were built with the intent of lasting much more than 10 years, use or no use.
We have a 94 bonneville with that problem. Only on the passnger side.Only happens when it rains good out and you start driving. The worst was when we went on a 200 mile trip. Was so bad (about 1 1/2- 2 inches deep) so we nicknamed it lake bonneville. Anyways. I found a spot in the rear wheel well where the water was running in. It would also get the seat cusioning wet. I should know because my [non-permissible content removed] got wet. Anyways, I just used silicone on both sides of the hole to repair.
OK...............Didn't get any responses so I guess I'll just update any of you who have read this and may ever have the same problem.
Wife went to the Pontiac dealer to find out where the booster control solenoid was and when she wa sthere a technician fixed the problem in less than 4 mnutes and charged her nothing. The problem was the air sensor located between the throttle body and the air filter. All he did was unplugged the wiring so we get no regulation. Car works perfect. He told her that we didn't need to replace the sensor if we chose not to. The part is approximately $200. The only downfall is the check engine light stays on, which is was on anyways with the problem. Take care
Sounds like the air temperature sensor for the intake air. That should affect the computer control for the efficiency (mileage) of the motor. Having it disconnected probably puts the car into a default setting for the incoming air temperature.
I'll have to dig out my 93 Service Manual to see what it actually does...
The part is probably available from a recycling yard or the aftermarket (NAPA) by now...
I have a 96SE with the auto climate control AC/Heater. My question is does the digital display control located above the radio control the doors that open and close to redirect the air or does the programmer under the dash behind the glove box. The digital display indicates the air is should be coming straight out the vent, but it actually coming out the top and bottom. If I select bi-level then the air comes out the main vents and the bottom. There never is a point that the air only comes out the main vents in the center of the car. I had the programmer replaced (off a 99 wreck) and was wondering if when they reconnected the small hoses inside the programmer are not connected in the proper order or if the display is bad. I have ice cold air just not able to control the direction of airflow as I should. Any ideas?? Thanks!
Just finished replacing problem parts on programmer on my LeSabre. Am now an "expert," but not because I wanted to be. The connections for the tubes to the vacuum heater box controls are shape-coded--they can't be connected wrong. If they used a replacement box, they probably just reconnected the snapon tubes to the new box.
My programmer had a problem where the little tubes in the connection collapse and shut off vacuum to one of the lines. That messes up usually the door that closes to make the defrost closed to force air to come out the middle vents.
If you make a list of each setting and where the air comes out, and do the same for each of the other settings, I'll see if it matches up with my service manual which also includes Pontiac, which does things a little differently it seemed from Olds and Buick. Check also for recirculate and after a minute or so you should head a lot more air sound under the dash above the accelerator pedal where air is drawn back in to recirculate.
BTW the slick fix for those with collapsed nipples in the connector I mentioned above which usually shuts off the vacuum to make the air come out the middle vents for air conditioning was the link myjunk posted earlier to http://www.imcool.com/articles/aircondition/fix_vacuum_line.htm
Take programmer out (I can help with methodology) and remove the black plastic holder for the shaped connector and reconnect internal tubes with outside tubes by sliding a short piece of fuel hose (1/8 inch) over both ends using a little moisture for lube. It bypasses the problem of collapsing nipples inside the connector. In the process of hauling around the box and testing the solenoids I messed up the electronics; $100 for a dual air unit from my local clean salvage yard. But it works!
Our 96 Bonneville SE is doing the exact same thing!!! The only difference is it doesn't matter which accessory control we touch it will shut off. If we start it and let it run it will run for a minute then shut off and take a few hours before it will start again. We've checked the ignition system, disassembled steering column and found nothing, changed vehicle body control module which worked for a week then the problem came back. Replacing the control module a second and third time hasn't worked nor has changing the computer. Please let me know if you've had any luck. Thanks.
There may be a specific component that might cause this, but my thought goes to the battery or grounds.
Is your battery in good shape and is the alternator charging properly? A battery low on voltage might cause strange cutoffs. IIRC the computer won't work below a certain cutoff voltage. Both items mentioned by diegel are high current draw and might have lowered the voltage when turned on. A friend's car she was driving had a 6 year old battery in it and checked low on voltage when I was troubleshooting the motor. Later when Walmart checked the battery in the car, it showed okay. Probably a bad cell shorting in and out.
Problem could be grounds--but that's not likely for headlights. One mechanic says when strange things happen check grounds. Your Pontiac has a ground for some things under the dash at the left kick panel, next to the parking brake. Also some ground connections are under the carpet next to driver seat between door sill and seat, and someone mentioned there was a ground on the passenger side in the same place. I haven't checked one of my manuals on that yet.
When the car cuts off, and the turn the key to on, do you hear the fuel pump in the tank for a few seconds? If the fuel pump cuts out, that would make the car die.
I wanted to thank myjunk and imidazol97 for the website and advice on fixing my a/c door problem. I ended up splicing the vaccum hoses together using 1/8" vaccum hose and now the doors work like there supposed to. Of course this leads to a new problem. When you start the car and turn on the A/C the lever under the dash behind the glovebox just to the left of the programmer closes all the way to allow nothing but heat. The only way to get the lever to move back to the cold side is to lower temp to 60° and have fan blower on low. 40 seconds later you see the lever move all the way back and cool air prevails. You then can adjust temp and fan speed as needed. During this 40 second ordeal the digital display temp flashes about 30 times. Once the lever has moved back over the blinking stops.
I'm thinking the blinking is telling me there is something wrong obviosly but what? This did not do this when I was having the door problems...probably because of the vaccum leak I was having.
I don't want to insult, but you did get the right hoses joined with the proper hose going to the heater box..., didn't you? Blue-blue, yellow-green, red-white, and orange-orange... those were colors used on LeSabre. Is the white bar from the programmer at the end of the metal rod coming out of the heater box? The head of the metal rod should be flush with the open snap-in portion of the white rod.
I recall that the manual said something about just turning on the system and letting it operate so it would learn the positions required. IIRC it said it may take about 12-15 minutes.
I'll look in the service manual to see what the blinking means. I hope you didn't electrically hurt some portion of the circuit board in the programmer box; I did. I should have known better having worked on computers through the years since 1980.
You might try this. I haven't. DOn't know if it works on my 98 or not... I suspect later cars require the ScanTool to access info. ************** **************
Auto Climate Control Diagnostics This procedure will work on 1992 and 1994 models with ATC, and may possibly also work on 1988-1991 models.
The diagnostic mode also contains a data list mode and an override mode.
Be careful not to select modes 01 or 02, as these are different modes, and may cause problems.
If you suspect you are in the wrong mode, press OFF repeatedly until you exit to normal mode. If the temperature display flashes for 2 minutes when the ignition is turned to RUN, a trouble code is set.
1. Turn ignition to RUN. Press OFF and WARM (temperature up) buttons simultaneously.
2. Watch the segment test, then the trouble codes will be displayed.
3. Code Key:
00 - No codes
10 or 110 - Ambient Temp Sensor circuit open or shorted.
13 or 113 - In-Vehicle Temp Sensor circuit open or shorted.
15 or 115 - LH Solar Sensor circuit open or shorted.
35 or 135 - Data Line failure - HVAC Control Assembly
38 or 138 - Data Line failure - PCM
40 or 140 - Driver Air Mix Motor circuit open or shorted, or not calibrated
48 or 148 - Long Term Freon Loss
52 or 152 - Keep Alive Memory lost; sets with battery disconnected
66 or 166 - Low Freon
A number 1 prefix indicates a history trouble code
4. Press OFF twice once codes are displayed to end diagnostic mode, OR to clear trouble codes, press FAN DOWN three times (make sure 03 is displayed).
Once 03 is displayed, press FAN UP to clear trouble codes. Then repeatedly press OFF to end diagnostic mode.
I have a 96 bonneville. Well i just happened to hear a loud clud or bang the other day after rolling up my power window, this happened when it hit the top. Tried to use it, and the window must have come off the track or the window motor is stripped out. I can push the up and down button and you can hear the motor working, but it isnt catching anything. what do you all think? also how the heck do you get the door panel off. how many screws are there to be taken out before you can yank it off.
what exactly is the regulator? Is it a fairly easy job to do. i have taken the door panel off, and that is about it so far. I am not in a huge hurry, but would like to get it done soon. If a shop were to fix it for me, does anyone know what a reasonable price would be. thanks
well messed with my window a little. Regulator seems fine, if it is the scissors like metal bars that go up and down. At least i can move the window up and down by hand. so it seems that the window is on the track, and my guess would be that the motor is stripped inside or something. any ideas
after car was towed in for plenum failure. we replaced upper intake manifold and plenum-thermostat-up/low rad hoses-wires. we have compression-fuel and spark. cleaned spark plugs-chk'd carb-changed oil-cleand each valve again. any suggestions. crank sensor was replaced about a month ago and scanner says it is ok. :confuse:
I have two problems with my 95 bonnie with 140k. I love the car and have owned it for 5 years and would like to get 200k out of it. I have the service manuals but usually end up needing to download a code.
1) a/c climate control is blinking and sometimes blowing very hot air in a/c mode. Read other posts but the procedure does not work for the 95s. If I shut the a/c off while it is blinking and then turn it back on when it stops it seems to run ok. What do I need to download the trouble code(s)?
2) I have an intermittent airbag light. It seems to come and go, with no pattern. Any ideas?
3) I'd like to get 200k out of the vehicle, should I purchase the tool to download codes?
yeh i had the same issue with my 92 it just a hole in the rear wheel wheel you can find it easily at night with a flash light i had one in my car that was about the size of both my fist so i just filled it in with some heavy duty foil and foam spray it cost about 3 dollors a can at wal mart
I have a 92 bonneville with about 145000 miles on it and i just got a new tranny put on but a little after i started to notice the rpm issue now what happens is that after driving in the city for about and hour and a half it starts to happen what happens is when i hit the gas my engine jerks really bad and the rpms go up to about 3000 and jump in between 3000 and 3500 it wont go up any more now about the gas milage i get about 13 miles to a gallon and that i awful exp since im a pizza delivery guy i think the two things might be linked so please help me i also have an engine code its 43 ecs control circut but when i took it to the shop they said that it was such a broad code that they didnt know what it was please help me
Look for any disconnected ground wires in the area around the transaxle and ignition module. Check all wiring connections between the ignition module and the ECM. Make sure spark plug wires aren't routed next to the ignition module wiring. If all are ok, probably needs an ignition module.
P.S. It's really difficult to read a sentence that's 8 lines long. Toss in a few periods.
I also have a simmilar issue. One day my interior lights stopped working. Even manually. And my power door locks I checked my fuses and they were good. It is still broken any suggestions? Where are the door latches. What am i looking for. Because I would like to get this fixed. :confuse: :confuse:
Thanks for the info I almost bought a new programmer but i do have just one more question. My air does not blow cold. Is this linked to the vaccum lines. If so when I bypass this it should work OK.
Bought this car from my friend 3 months ago. He told me before buying it that occasionally, it would stall for no reason. I bought it anyway. What a mistake. So, first, I did a basic tune up-plugs, oil,oil, gas, and air filters etc. Put on some new tires and had it detailed. Car ran great. When I put the AC on, the volt meter would move a lot. So, tested the battery and alternator-changed both. Car was still cutting out occasionally up to this point. Then, after parking for about an hour, it would crank but not start. Eventually, after 10 minutes, it would start. Changed the crankshaft sensor. Starts all the time now. Still stalls. Next, change the Ignition Control module. Didn't stall for 2 days, then same stall problem-both at high speed and slow speed. Next, reset the ground wire below the ICM I believe. Good for 2 days, then back to stalling intermitantly. Next, changed the Ignition Switch, Again, good for 2 days, then back to stalling. Today, changing the computer, if no result, return computer and put on for sale sign. If successful, put on for sale sign. If it wasn't for my mechanic being a friend of mine and getting the parts at cost-wholesale, along with him not charging me full price for labor, I'ld be broke. My mechanic doesn't think it's the computer, but I got a price from my distributor and told him to do it. I'm a glutton for punishment. Regardless of how this saga ends, I will NEVER buy a GM (and probably ANY America Union made or owned Company) car again. I have a 96 Sentra with over 200k on it thats cost less in repairs and maintenance in 9 years than this piece of junk has in 3 months. Some companies just deserve to be bankrupt or out of business. The most pathetic thing is that no error codes come up, and it's apparent that this his been a problem or design flaw for so many years, but GM is such a pathetic excuse for an auto maker, they never corrected the laundry list of flaws, complaints, etc. Good ridence to GM.
In reference to my problem (message 1597 and 1598) after fixing the vacumm lines with the blinking lights on the control panel, I guess it takes a series of off/ons to clear or reset the system. After a week (not sure how many times I turned the A/C off and on) but the system does not blink any longer. Works like the day I first bought it. I appreciate the advice given and the money I was able to save.
Thanks for reporting back. That helps new readers who come here looking for help and information about what works.
If I had seen the article that I linked to about how to bypass the vacuum connector on the programmer early in the summer, I would have fixed my box a lot sooner. I didn't look forward to taking it out and then trying to find a replacement programmer. The pictures with the article built my confidence in what I was seeing as I had already dug under the dash.
As long as some cold air came out somewhere I was willing to put up with it. But this is a fix that costs $0.00 -- the NAPA store GAVE me the gasline when I took in the programmer to find something to fit.
Yes, me too. I have had my 2000 ssei for two months now. On the way home from the purchase dealer the passenger window broke. Took it back and made them repair it for free. Next was the back left window. It was repaired with my aftermarket mech. insurance along with a complete unrelated item I know, the steering rack. Just this week the rear right widnow went out. Seems to be a problem that pontiac is not accepting to fix. I asked the dealer repairing this last one to determine the cause, His comment back was, " we just replace the parts" Has anyone contacted pontiac about this and with what resutls if any?
My 05 GXP has 4500 miles on it .. It has been a great car, but recently a very loud rattle has developed in the headliner. The rattle appears to originate near the Sunshade. As long as the Sun Roof and Sunshade are closed the rattle is all but nonexistent. The dealer has Taped and Foamed the area twice . The dealer also contacted Pontiac . Help I need some ideas
Hey Mike. I posted this reply a couple of weeks ago in the other Bonneville forum. Maybe this will help you???
Congrats on your GXP--yep, awesome car. What color did you get?
As to the rattle, here is the language on my paperwork:
Problem: There is a tapping type of noise coming from the roof area behind drivers head, seems to be worse after driving a while like tempearature affects it, Bryan can duplicate the noise by pushing on the headliner
Cause: Misaligned B2720 Checked for tapping and found headliner around sunroof loose, correctly installed and test drove, is OK at this time 507 WB40 FC: 3A Part #: Count: 0 (N/C) Claim Type: Auth Code: NY
Don't know exactly what the codes above mean, but perhaps your servicing dealer will? Anyway, hope you can get it resolved, and enjoy your ride--the care simply brings a smile to my face every time I drive it. Enjoy!
My air does not blow cold. Is this linked to the vaccum lines. If so when I bypass this it should work OK. The freon is ok. Also my transmission seems to kina stall or shudder when trying to accelarte to get on the freeway. Does anyone know what this is.
Follow up. Changed computer. Probably should have been first thing to do, since it was a lot less expensive than I thought for new computer. Anyway, after changing computer, car started fine but ran a bit rough. After running for 7 minutes, the "check engine" light came on. Checked code (we get codes now with new computer/software)and needed to replace camshaft sensor. Replaced it. Car ran worse than ever, stalled, loss of power, surging etc. Re-replaced camshaft sensor with 2nd new one. Same story. Currently working on solving this problem. I'll report back after next step.
I have a 2000 ssei there is an odor of coolant and the motor in my opinion runs hot 200-210deg.. Everything i have read involves a plastic intake mine is cast aluminum but is obviously slowly leaking at the gasket. Is this a common issue on all 3800's if anyone has advice I would like to solve this problem ASAP any input would be greatly appreciated.
Hi, each radio and on board computer have to match.... (same code) sorry but you will need a dealer for this ... I am on my 5th new Bonneville The are great cars Take care Mike
OK, finally, I feel like I gave birth. Well, after installing a new computer and getting Code # 341, replacing cam sensor twice, we replaced the new computer with a second new computer. Finally all is well. Unbelievable. As I wrote in an earlier post, we replaced the crankshaft sensor twice, since the first new replacement was a problem. After finally getting the computer issue and cam sensor settled, we got a code 122 a couple times. This refers to the TPS-throttle position sensor, low voltage. Anyway, we cleared the code, checked the TPS, supposed to run .28-.75 volts I believe. It runs at .38 at idle and in the .45-.58 range when on the gas. Code has not reappeared, car has NOT stalled, car starts easily. This was truly a learning, frustrating, exspensive experience. Please read all my posts. If I had changed the computer from the get go, I MAY have saved some money from parts that MAY not have needed replacement. On the other hand, if I had replaced the computer first, and it was a defect like this first new one, who knows where that would have lead. I wish everyone luck with their problems. I hope my expense, and struggles have helped. If anything new occurs , I will be sure to post it here.
I am really glad to hear finally you found the problem and got it fixed, and thank you very much for being so king to report all your stories. I am sure there are many people reading this board and are happy for you.
Now, that finally everything is fixed, I want to tell you my story, and I am sure there are many happy bonneville owners like me.
I myself own a 95 Bonny(Fully Loaded) and it has 152K already and not a single problem, except two years ago there was some coolant leak into oil. This is well known problem and part of the reason for it I guess is hot/humid weather in Texas in my case
I was recenlty test-driving some cars to replace my aging Bonneville, and mainly was focusing on Chrisler 300M because of more horsepower and standard luxury items and also wanted to try another big American car. It is a nice car, but after testing some, even 2004 model, I found my 95 drives better. Even my two boys today in the back seat of 300M complained about being not as roomy as Bonny and also to much engine noise when accelerating hard. I drove also 2003 Bonny, and again the engine does not sound as good as mine. I think the sinthetic oil(s) which I am using is really taking care for my 3.8 engine and transmission.
I wish you many miles of trublle free driving, -haro
Update. Well, after 3 days the check engine light came on. Code 122-the TPS. So, no problem right? Well, almost. Changed the sensor, no change, check engine light again. Try a second sensor(see previous posts as to why). No change. Try a 3rd new sensor. No change. Ughhhh! Replaced computer AGAIN(3rd new one) from different manufacturer and different distributor. Put back original, old, TPS sensor. Car is back to perfect. Next time I think of buying a Pontiac, someone shoot me.
Hey all, I have a 95 SE with series 2 3800. I've had this problem for over nine months now. My battery gauge at start up moves slow, goes up half way slowly stops for few seconds then goes to 14 volts. The gauge itself rarely is at full strengh, usally it hovers around 12 or a little lower day or night. At night time once in a while my lights dim and the gauge drops halfway for about 5 seconds, it only does this at idle. Also at idle many times day or night the gauge fluxuates back and forth I belive between 14-12 and 10, sometimes a tad lower. My mechanic said it was some bad wires to the altenator. Didn't fix it. My friends mechanic said bad postive battery cable, didn't fix problem either. I got a GM service bulletin from alldata.com, it said lights dimming and gauge dropping was normal for 96 and up bonnies.Normal my butt.I took the bonnie to an electrical specialist he said altenator was bad. I didn't really believe him, he said he checked everything else. Anytime I had a altenator die on me it just went, no warning usually in the rain or cold day and my car wouldn't start. Never slowly over months at a time. The car is still doing the same thing. I took the car back to him, he gave my double talk, I got pissed and left. Has anyone ever had or heard of this problem? Also I kinda think this may have started when I changed my battery. I had a diehard gold in it, but I moved so I puy one from parts america in it, it wasn't nearly as strong, I think like 650-700 amps compared to 850? on diehard. Could that be the source of my problem? Or am I just gettin desperate here. Please help, you guys are my last hope!! I'm going to sell it if I can't get it fixed, but I love this car, it has only 124k on it.
Very easy to test the alternator and battery. To test alternator, with the engine running, connect the battery tester to the battery. Switch the battery tester on-basically, put a load on the battery. If the meter shows steady at ~14, then your alternator is fine. If meter shows declining volts, then you need a new alternator. Do the same thing to test battery, except turn engine off. If when you put a load on battery, the meter begins to drop, that means your battery is no good and will not hold a charge. It IS possible that your alternator could be working intermittently. Since the brushes inside wear, your alternator might be good for a while, but later no good. Any half competent can check this for you in 2 minutes. Hope this helps.
Also check for broken post inside the battery by applying torque to the terminals while testing. Service manager warned me that has occurred in a couple cases. Sometimes it has good contact, sometimes not. Sometimes None.
Your next step should be to remove the belt and pull it away from the crankshaft pulley, start the engine and see if the screeching has gone away. If so, it is the alt., idler pulley brg., water pump etc. If it is still screeching, it's inside the engine somewhere. I have the same problem with my engine and have'nt solved it yet. Could there be an oil passage to the balance shaft plugged? Hope your problem can be solved externally.
I replaced the intake plenum and manifold gasket on my 96 3.8 Bonneville engine and it runs fine with no leaks, but...... Now the engine screeches when not under load (decelerating and at idle). I removed the engine belt and it still screeched,telling me that it is'nt an accessory. I replaced the harmonic balancer pulley....still screeching. I pulled the timing cover, replaced chain,gears and tensioner....still screeching. The oil pump is in perfect condition and engine has great oil pressure. Could I have plugged an oil passage to the balance shaft bushing when replacing intake manifold gasket? I do'nt know where the oil passages are. I'm afraid that an engine teardown may be my next step. I hope someone out there has heard of this problem before.
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My question is, has anyone else had this problem? If so, what did you do to repair it? Does anyone know exactly what is involved in using the repair kit? From what I gather, the kit is (list) priced at over $400, plus several hours of labor. Yikes. I'm guessing they cut out the entire section and somehow bond the repair panel in place.
For now, I cleaned the pan, used a rust remover and re-painted the area on the inside of the car. I also applied some aluminum tape over the hole to keep water out. Since the floor pan still seems pretty solid, I will hope that it will not corrode any more and that the battery won't fall through the floor someday. It probably should be repaired properly, but I just don't want to spend the money right now (or maybe ever!). I'm wondering if GM had installed a simple corrosion-resistant tray under the battery that it would have saved a bigger problem from occurring later. Hmmm...
I have had the exact same thing happen to my car. I have a 2003 Final 500 Oldsmobile Aurora. I have only had it for a little over two years and it only has about 615 miles on it. I found the evidence of the corrosion on the weekend before Memorial Day weekend. I keep the car stored in a storage unit and I went to drive it on a impromptu trip out of town for the day. I found ashes under the car on the floor and took the back seat out to check in the battery area. Sure enough, acid had leaked from the battery and eaten through the floorpan to the outside of the car. My battery had not been holding its charge for several weeks like it used to and I had to begin boosting it off a lot even with going to start up the car every few weeks to keep the battery charged. It dawned on me then that this is reason for the battery drain.
I went and printed the TSB information on the problem from the GM Techlink March 2005 newsletter on their service website(don't have access to the actual TSBs) and took it to the dealer the next Monday morning. It took them 3 weeks to get the repair kit(on backorder at the time) and three weeks to get around to fixing my car at the body shop. They also put in a new battery. It was all done under warranty. I cannot tell you what all they did, but it now looks like it never had the problem in the first place to me. I hope I don't ever have the problem again.
I was not happy at all about this happening because I have been trying to keep the car in collectible condition and keeping the miles off the car. I feel like it has ruined my car and could lower the value of my car because of the body repair if it truly becomes a collectible one day (I hope!!)
However, this should bring us both some comfort that we are not alone in having this unnecessary problem and at least GM has a fix for it and did not ignore it. I'm just glad that it happened early for me and did not cost me anything but some time without my car and some gas to get it fixed.
Bryant
Ideas?
The car to me drives if it has a clogged catalytic converter ( best explanation). It bogs when you give it gas, at any speed, and stutters when taking off. Also it takes awhile to get up to cruising speed. If , when braking, I keep the idle at 1500 rpm and take off the stuttering is not present but all else is. The best way to get up to speed is by lightly applying gas pressure. Sometimes while getting up to speed, if you let off the gas you increase speed better.
Okay......now that you think you got it let me get on with the rest.
When her parents owned the vehicle, nearly everything under the hood was replaced including the ecu. The only thing that was never replaced by them was the fuel injectors, which I recently did myself with refurbished/cleaned injectors.
None of these things have done the trick. Another thing I need to add is that we recently took the vehicle for a diagniostics test by a dealership, and our backyard mechanic, whom is also a very good professional mechanic by day. What the dealers comprehensive test shown is that our car is perfect except the ecu. Our personal mechanic used a MAC TOOL diagnostic tester and his also pointed out the ecu.The code his tester showed are as follows....p 1406, p1670, and p1640. The 1406 is because the EGR is not responding properly to commands from the PCM. The 1670 Is the drver 4 and the 1640 error is for the quad driver module.
Our solution.....buy a new one. Her father paid $1200 for an ecu when he replaced it and that didn't repair the problem. We paid $130 3 weeks ago and this didn't solve the problem so we returned it. Yes, you heard correctly.......don't mess with a po'd scorpio woman with car problems.
Now with that all said, several people seem to think that it may be due to bad electrical. Also, the wife found another read that sounded identicle to what her problem is and they replaced the booster control solenoid and the problem cleared itself.
Let me know any suggestions or testimonies please. Thanks. Bummed out hubby of a Bonneville owner.
Glad to hear your Aurora is all fixed up, and I wouldn't worry too much about the repair. As long as it was a good repair, no one will ever be the wiser (other than you). From my experience with the Bonneville, after a few years other things start to go bad, either from lack of use or just age, so far mostly cosmetic things like the trim pieces losing adhesion, etc. I don't think cars these days were built with the intent of lasting much more than 10 years, use or no use.
Wife went to the Pontiac dealer to find out where the booster control solenoid was and when she wa sthere a technician fixed the problem in less than 4 mnutes and charged her nothing. The problem was the air sensor located between the throttle body and the air filter. All he did was unplugged the wiring so we get no regulation. Car works perfect. He told her that we didn't need to replace the sensor if we chose not to. The part is approximately $200. The only downfall is the check engine light stays on, which is was on anyways with the problem.
Take care
I'll have to dig out my 93 Service Manual to see what it actually does...
The part is probably available from a recycling yard or the aftermarket (NAPA) by now...
2014 Malibu 2LT, 2015 Cruze 2LT,
My programmer had a problem where the little tubes in the connection collapse and shut off vacuum to one of the lines. That messes up usually the door that closes to make the defrost closed to force air to come out the middle vents.
If you make a list of each setting and where the air comes out, and do the same for each of the other settings, I'll see if it matches up with my service manual which also includes Pontiac, which does things a little differently it seemed from Olds and Buick. Check also for recirculate and after a minute or so you should head a lot more air sound under the dash above the accelerator pedal where air is drawn back in to recirculate.
BTW the slick fix for those with collapsed nipples in the connector I mentioned above which usually shuts off the vacuum to make the air come out the middle vents for air conditioning was the link myjunk posted earlier to
http://www.imcool.com/articles/aircondition/fix_vacuum_line.htm
Take programmer out (I can help with methodology) and remove the black plastic holder for the shaped connector and reconnect internal tubes with outside tubes by sliding a short piece of fuel hose (1/8 inch) over both ends using a little moisture for lube. It bypasses the problem of collapsing nipples inside the connector. In the process of hauling around the box and testing the solenoids I messed up the electronics; $100 for a dual air unit from my local clean salvage yard. But it works!
2014 Malibu 2LT, 2015 Cruze 2LT,
I will let you know what I find.
Is your battery in good shape and is the alternator charging properly? A battery low on voltage might cause strange cutoffs. IIRC the computer won't work below a certain cutoff voltage. Both items mentioned by diegel are high current draw and might have lowered the voltage when turned on. A friend's car she was driving had a 6 year old battery in it and checked low on voltage when I was troubleshooting the motor. Later when Walmart checked the battery in the car, it showed okay. Probably a bad cell shorting in and out.
Problem could be grounds--but that's not likely for headlights. One mechanic says when strange things happen check grounds. Your Pontiac has a ground for some things under the dash at the left kick panel, next to the parking brake. Also some ground connections are under the carpet next to driver seat between door sill and seat, and someone mentioned there was a ground on the passenger side in the same place. I haven't checked one of my manuals on that yet.
When the car cuts off, and the turn the key to on, do you hear the fuel pump in the tank for a few seconds? If the fuel pump cuts out, that would make the car die.
2014 Malibu 2LT, 2015 Cruze 2LT,
When you start the car and turn on the A/C the lever under the dash behind the glovebox just to the left of the programmer closes all the way to allow nothing but heat. The only way to get the lever to move back to the cold side is to lower temp to 60° and have fan blower on low. 40 seconds later you see the lever move all the way back and cool air prevails. You then can adjust temp and fan speed as needed. During this 40 second ordeal the digital display temp flashes about 30 times. Once the lever has moved back over the blinking stops.
I'm thinking the blinking is telling me there is something wrong obviosly but what?
This did not do this when I was having the door problems...probably because of the vaccum leak I was having.
Anyone got any ideas?
I recall that the manual said something about just turning on the system and letting it operate so it would learn the positions required. IIRC it said it may take about 12-15 minutes.
I'll look in the service manual to see what the blinking means. I hope you didn't electrically hurt some portion of the circuit board in the programmer box; I did. I should have known better having worked on computers through the years since 1980.
2014 Malibu 2LT, 2015 Cruze 2LT,
**************
**************
Auto Climate Control Diagnostics
This procedure will work on 1992 and 1994 models with ATC, and may possibly also work on 1988-1991 models.
The diagnostic mode also contains a data list mode and an override mode.
Be careful not to select modes 01 or 02, as these are different modes, and may cause problems.
If you suspect you are in the wrong mode, press OFF repeatedly until you exit to normal mode. If the temperature display flashes for 2 minutes when the ignition is turned to RUN, a trouble code is set.
1. Turn ignition to RUN. Press OFF and WARM (temperature up) buttons simultaneously.
2. Watch the segment test, then the trouble codes will be displayed.
3. Code Key:
00 - No codes
10 or 110 - Ambient Temp Sensor circuit open or shorted.
13 or 113 - In-Vehicle Temp Sensor circuit open or shorted.
15 or 115 - LH Solar Sensor circuit open or shorted.
35 or 135 - Data Line failure - HVAC Control Assembly
38 or 138 - Data Line failure - PCM
40 or 140 - Driver Air Mix Motor circuit open or shorted, or not calibrated
48 or 148 - Long Term Freon Loss
52 or 152 - Keep Alive Memory lost; sets with battery disconnected
66 or 166 - Low Freon
A number 1 prefix indicates a history trouble code
4. Press OFF twice once codes are displayed to end diagnostic mode, OR to clear trouble codes, press FAN DOWN three times (make sure 03 is displayed).
Once 03 is displayed, press FAN UP to clear trouble codes. Then repeatedly press OFF to end diagnostic mode.
2014 Malibu 2LT, 2015 Cruze 2LT,
http://www.autozone.com/servlet/UiBroker?ForwardPage=/az/cds/en_us/0900823d/80/15/f7/85/09- 00823d8015f785.jsp
1) a/c climate control is blinking and sometimes blowing very hot air in a/c mode. Read other posts but the procedure does not work for the 95s. If I shut the a/c off while it is blinking and then turn it back on when it stops it seems to run ok. What do I need to download the trouble code(s)?
2) I have an intermittent airbag light. It seems to come and go, with no pattern. Any ideas?
3) I'd like to get 200k out of the vehicle, should I purchase the tool to download codes?
imidazol97, "Pontiac Bonneville Owners: Problems & Solutions" #1599, 7 Aug 2005 8:34 pm
to get codes. If this doesn't work??? I suspect a scantool is required. You might check with Autozone in your area. They may know if there's a method to read the codes.
2014 Malibu 2LT, 2015 Cruze 2LT,
Look for any disconnected ground wires in the area around the transaxle and ignition module. Check all wiring connections between the ignition module and the ECM. Make sure spark plug wires aren't routed next to the ignition module wiring. If all are ok, probably needs an ignition module.
P.S. It's really difficult to read a sentence that's 8 lines long. Toss in a few periods.
If I had seen the article that I linked to about how to bypass the vacuum connector on the programmer early in the summer, I would have fixed my box a lot sooner. I didn't look forward to taking it out and then trying to find a replacement programmer. The pictures with the article built my confidence in what I was seeing as I had already dug under the dash.
As long as some cold air came out somewhere I was willing to put up with it. But this is a fix that costs $0.00 -- the NAPA store GAVE me the gasline when I took in the programmer to find something to fit.
2014 Malibu 2LT, 2015 Cruze 2LT,
Congrats on your GXP--yep, awesome car. What color did you get?
As to the rattle, here is the language on my paperwork:
Problem: There is a tapping type of noise coming from the roof area behind drivers head, seems to be worse after driving a while like tempearature affects it, Bryan can duplicate the noise by pushing on the headliner
Cause: Misaligned
B2720 Checked for tapping and found headliner around sunroof loose, correctly installed and test drove, is OK at this time
507 WB40
FC: 3A Part #: Count: 0 (N/C)
Claim Type:
Auth Code:
NY
Don't know exactly what the codes above mean, but perhaps your servicing dealer will? Anyway, hope you can get it resolved, and enjoy your ride--the care simply brings a smile to my face every time I drive it. Enjoy!
Also my transmission seems to kina stall or shudder when trying to accelarte to get on the freeway. Does anyone know what this is.
mec51, "Transmission Traumas?" #1825, 22 Aug 2005 5:41 pm
2014 Malibu 2LT, 2015 Cruze 2LT,
This was truly a learning, frustrating, exspensive experience. Please read all my posts. If I had changed the computer from the get go, I MAY have saved some money from parts that MAY not have needed replacement. On the other hand, if I had replaced the computer first, and it was a defect like this first new one, who knows where that would have lead. I wish everyone luck with their problems. I hope my expense, and struggles have helped. If anything new occurs , I will be sure to post it here.
I am really glad to hear finally you found the problem and got it fixed, and
thank you very much for being so king to report all your stories. I am sure there
are many people reading this board and are happy for you.
Now, that finally everything is fixed, I want to tell you my story, and I am sure
there are many happy bonneville owners like me.
I myself own a 95 Bonny(Fully Loaded) and it has 152K already and not a single problem, except two years ago there was some coolant leak into oil. This is well
known problem and part of the reason for it I guess is hot/humid weather
in Texas in my case
I was recenlty test-driving some cars to replace my aging
mainly was focusing on Chrisler 300M because of more horsepower and
standard luxury items and also wanted to try another big American car.
It is a nice car, but after testing some, even 2004 model,
I found my 95 drives better. Even my two boys today in the back seat of 300M
complained about being not as roomy as Bonny and also to much engine
noise when accelerating hard. I drove also 2003 Bonny, and again the engine
does not sound as good as mine. I think the sinthetic oil(s) which I am using
is really taking care for my 3.8 engine and transmission.
I wish you many miles of trublle free driving,
-haro
I have a 95 SE with series 2 3800. I've had this problem for over nine months now.
My battery gauge at start up moves slow, goes up half way slowly stops for few seconds then goes to 14 volts. The gauge itself rarely is at full strengh, usally it hovers around 12 or a little lower day or night. At night time once in a while my lights dim and the gauge drops halfway for about 5 seconds, it only does this at idle. Also at idle many times day or night the gauge fluxuates back and forth I belive between 14-12 and 10, sometimes a tad lower. My mechanic said it was some bad wires to the altenator. Didn't fix it. My friends mechanic said bad postive battery cable, didn't fix problem either. I got a GM service bulletin from alldata.com, it said lights dimming and gauge dropping was normal for 96 and up bonnies.Normal my butt.I took the bonnie to an electrical specialist he said altenator was bad. I didn't really believe him, he said he checked everything else.
Anytime I had a altenator die on me it just went, no warning usually in the rain or cold day and my car wouldn't start. Never slowly over months at a time. The car is still doing the same thing. I took the car back to him, he gave my double talk, I got pissed and left. Has anyone ever had or heard of this problem? Also I kinda think this may have started when I changed my battery. I had a diehard gold in it, but I moved so I puy one from parts america in it, it wasn't nearly as strong, I think like 650-700 amps compared to 850? on diehard. Could that be the source of my problem? Or am I just gettin desperate here. Please help, you guys are my last hope!! I'm going to sell it if I can't get it fixed, but I love this car, it has only 124k on it.
2014 Malibu 2LT, 2015 Cruze 2LT,