You're probably better off taking it to a BMW dealer. They should have the equipment and familiarity with you car to pinpoint the problem. Btw, that's CAN bus (controller area network bus, a newer method of onboard computers to communicate), not Ken Bust.
if the speed sensor was an active (or passive for that matter) magnetic pickup probe (a device that senses the passing of a piece of metal in close proximity to a detector by the induction of a magnetic field and the current which flows) - it is probaby set up to sense a tooth or teeth on some speed ring or gear.
i'd say if this arrangement exists (alcan could help us out here - i don't know what they use in cars) its possible you may have an issue with the gap between the ring and its tooth/teeth and the sensor (perhaps it's mount) growing or getting larger as the vehicle warms up.
if the gap becomes larger, the signal generated by the probe may no longer be regular or strong enough to create a stable pulse train which the electronics detect, process, and convert into vehicle speed.
Replying to your response to my posting on Aug 6, when I had a grinding sound when shifting from first to second at higher revs, the mechanic changed the transmission fluid, and I now have no unusual sound. The problem was cured! What gives? The fluid was not low or old before he did this. Any ideas as to what the problem was?
Transmission fluids contain friction modifiers which can eventually deteriorate. Replacing the fluid can restore the friction qualities required for proper synchronizer ring operation. If it keeps working, great. If it starts grinding again, figure on a rebuild.
"if the speed sensor was an active (or passive for that matter) magnetic pickup probe"
Automotive passive speed sensors (wheel speed, trans input and output speed) are simple permanent magnet AC signal generators which depend on the disruption of the magnetic flux surrounding a magnet to induce an AC voltage signal into the windings surrounding the magnet. Frequency is translated into speed, amplitude is used for for self diagnostics. Active sensors (some newer vehicle wheel speed sensors) are Hall effect devices which produce a square wave, the frequency of which is directly proportional to RPM.
"if the gap becomes larger, the signal generated by the probe may no longer be regular or strong enough to create a stable pulse train which the electronics detect, process, and convert into vehicle speed."
If the air gap increases the issue isn't with frequency, which remains stable at a given RPM, but with voltage level or amplitude which drops to a level below which the processor can use, and initiates a system self-check.
In any event, any 3rd year apprentice should be able to hook up an oscilliscope and check the sensor output. It ain't rocket science.
I have a 2001 odyssey with 94K miles. I am on my third transmission. I am told that the second gear is placed higher than others and the second gear burns out because the fluid can not get pumped high enough to keep the gear cool. In the newer models, the second gear has a pipe that is run over it and dumps coolant onto the second gear so that the transmission works better. I am trying to get Honda to pay off my loan and not be upside down because of a design flaw. I am not a mechanic so why should I be penalized for their mistake! I am considering a class action lawsuit if I can not get this resolved. I am asking for a reply from anyone who might want to join.
Hi, My van (1994 Mercury Villager) can run at D gear (up to 70 mile/hour without problem), barely moves forward at 1st and 2nd gears, and doesn't move at reverse. Noise (sounds like a fan is running) developes when shifted to N (neutral). I wonder if these symptoms indicate a bad transmission. How do I fix this problem. Thank you in advance. Peter
I have a 97 taurus, here is the problem... when i go 50 miles or more it appears to be in 4th gear then down gears and then it will get back on 4th gear :confuse: I believe. it is not a constant shifting but it happens, what could the problem be? is my tranny dying? pls help desperate poor 97 taurus owner, I know i got the worng car but pls help
:confuse: :sick: I drive a 1990 VW Westfalia Multivan (automatic transmission) 74000 km total mileage. heh we call it precious and ordered it when new fro gemany..The last few months when the engine is cold it will kick. For instance I have left my drive way got to the stop at the end of the street applied the gas to move and it jerks, kicks like it was either.. 1. stuck in a stop position 2. The brake had not released correctly. Whats weird is it only does this for the first say three stops then when the engine is warm I have no more problems.. Has any one ever heard of such a thing? Any help would be greatly appreciated.. We suspect the tranny but well do not want to get taken to the cleaners by a transmission company for no reason.. Thanking you in advance
Have you had your car's vibration problem resolved? I am anxious to know your solution if you have it, as my Lexus 3.0 has very similar phenominon as yours.
You might consider a transmission service which might possibly clean up the valve body in the transmission. If there is no slippage and if it operates just fine when warm, I would tend to suspect the valve body.
hi i have a bmw e46 318 1999 sounds like a wobbling noise from the front of the car a bmw tech suggested i change the centre prop bearing,which i did but noise is still there,there is no play on front wheel bearings and noise does not go when turning,sounds worse when in second and third gears and you are driving through the gears slowley,engine still has plenty of power and you cant hear the noise if you drive hard and fast through the gears,can anybody please help.cheers adam.
You can't test wheel bearings unless you take them out and look at them. I'm surprised someone suggested a driveshaft component when the noise goes away while turning....oh, well....
I put another engine in a '91 Corolla DX wagon, fired it up, and had no engagement in the tranny. Tried setting the adjustment of the shifter linkage, checked all the wires, fluid level, no help. The ring gear/torque converter bolts were too close to the engine,and tapped on the inspection cover when it ran.I unbolted the ring gear/converter, & in park the wheels turn in opposite directions, in all other gears only the turned wheel moves, never turning the converter. Auto trans, 1.6 eng.; have I sheared gears, a pin, etc., any way to check? Thanks.
"The ring gear/torque converter bolts were too close to the engine,and tapped on the inspection cover when it ran"
If the trans worked before the engine swap, you've either put the flex plate on backwards, or didn't have the converter hub all the way in and engaged with the drive gear of the trans oil pump in which case you've probably torn the pump up. Start by hooking up an oil pressure gauge to the trans test port. If it reads zero, the trans is coming back out.
"I unbolted the ring gear/converter, & in park the wheels turn in opposite directions, in all other gears only the turned wheel moves, never turning the converter."
It won't. There's no mechanical connection between the converter housing and the trans input shaft at any time other than when the lockup clutch applies, and there's no connection between the trans input and output shafts unless the engine's running and driving the trans pump. Hydraulic pressure from the pump applies clutches and bands to put the trans in gear, otherwise you have neutral.Turning the wheels just turns the trans output shaft and some of the internal gears.
I have an '99 Isuzu Rodeo V6 Manual transmission, which has been to the dealer shop 3x's in the last 3 wks only had it home the last three days. Engine starts with high idle at 2000+rpms. When I shift from 1st to 2nd(or any others), the rpms increase to 3000 until the clutch is left out then back to 2000. When coming to a stop, I push in the clutch and downshift the rpms increse with each downshift and at stop the engine revs and goes to 2000+. Also, if I leave it in gear and slow down with the brakes it will go to low rpms under 2000 but as soon as the clutch is in, it revvs up to 3000. Also revving the engine and/or pulling up on the gas pedal seem to have no effect on the rpms; depressing the clutch pedal a few times seems to have no effect either when at a stop. I have requested the parts replaced because they were not the problem. I do not know what to do and at a loss of $1000!
Does anyone think this is a throttle positioning prob or throttle sensor?
Items replaced: Gasket IN, Gasket COM, Stabilizer, Changed oil & filter, IAC. PCV, Sensor AS, and MOD ( some kind of computer motor).
Note: This has been reposted from the Taurus/Sable board
My 2003 Sable has been very reliable but it has one very annoying issue:
When the car is cold and I back the car out of the driveway (maybe 20 feet) after I turn the car off it will burp out a small amount (maybe a couple of spoonfuls) of transmission fluid out of the vent. Since my driveway is concrete, the transmission fluid makes a messy sight.
The car doesn't do this when it is not cold. I have checked the transmission fluid level (when thoroughly warmed up, with the engine running parked, on level ground) and the transmission is not overfilled.
Any suggestions as to what is going on ? And how I may fix this issue ?
I experienced some front end mechanical sound that sounded like gear slippage. Took it to the dealer and found out that my transaxle with 62,000 miles will need to be replaced. My 97 RAV 4 received a new tranny as part of a Toyota service campaign for defective pinion gear in 1999. I had 20,000 miles on my old tranny when it was replaced. Since then, I have put in 42,000 easy suburban miles on it. Did I happen to have gotten a lemon of a tranny or was there a problem with their transmission supplier. I have seen posts about Torque Converter supplier problems on early Sienna models. Wondering if anyone else out there has a similar problem. So much for the image of reliable Toyota products.
I just bought a 1999 as well and I have the exact problem, after it heats up both lights come on just like you describe. Have you got anywhere? I do not know what to do. my e-mail is kjacober@telus.net if you have any news on yours or if you found anything out could you let me in on it I would really aprietiate it.
Just got our hands on a 1997 Ford Conversion Van that has a wierd shudder when it shifts into fourth gear and only fourth gear. Light load and light acceleration makes it feel like it is shifting in and out of gear, overdive status does not make a difference. It is a Triton V8 Engine with 70K miles with no tow bar. Any thoughts?
my son has a 77 cadillac. the trans started to ovewrflow fluid out of the filler tube. took to shop and had trans rebuilt. happened a month later, same shop, rebuilt trans again and install a trans cooler. another month and same problem. any ideas about whats going on???
Thanks for your reply, The second time it was in the machanic installed a trans. cooler in front of the radiator. He thought it was overheating. the value sounds like the problem to me. is that something that I could check myself or is there a way to try and flush the transmission. At this point we are really furstrated.
I'm considering buying a 1986 BMW 325 es coupe from a co-worker, and i think it needs some transmission work. It's a 5-speed manual. So I was wondering what all that might involve, and how much money we're talking about to get it back in shape. thanks for your help.
I haven't been in that particular transmission. Best thing might be to get a diagram of its innards and then pop the trans oil pan and see if the filter is in wrong or if something is obstructing the vent internally....actually it sounds like in your case the fluid is actually coming OUT of the vent, which makes me wonder about the filter. Are we SURE the trans isn't overfilled?
no the fluid level is correct. the repair place installed a transmision fluid cooler the second time I took it in, and now he does not want to cover the warrenty saying that something else other than the transmission is causing the problem. my son put out almost 1400.00 to have it rebuilt and is really frustrated. Thanks for your help. if he does not cover the work again I will try to look at it myself.
Today-- as I was trying to turn-- I shifted into first gear to find that I wasn't moving! It felt like I was in neutral and simply reving the engine. All the other gears wouldn't work either-- so I was stuck. When the tow guy came-- he found out that he was able to drive the car off the road in neutral. I car will only somewhat drive in neautral, but will die once the clutch is taken out. None of the other gears work and only die when I apply gas. Is this a transmission problem? Thanks for any feedback.
I am having a problem with the automatic trans in this vehicle. There are no gears what so ever until I turn on the "2nd Gear Start" switch. Once this switch has be turned on I get forward gears only. Have replaced the ECM unit, thinking that may help but there is still no change. Any help with this problem would be appreciated. The car is the mother in laws and I cant expect her to keep pushing the car backwards to get around. :sick:
I have a 2002 Mazda B3000 extended cab 2wd automatic with 33,000 miles. The transmission is slipping between 2nd and 3rd gear. My mechanic says the clutch pack is going out. Seems like too few miles to have major transmission trouble. Has anyone else had transmission problems with their Mazda truck?
I have a 2005 Mercury Mariner, w/11212 miles. Yesterday the transmission locked up. (no wheel movement). Had it towed to a Mercury dealer. They told me I had to have a new transmission. Have you heard of any other 2005 mariner's with this major problem?
My Pontiac Grand prix has a rebuilt transmission that is 2 yrs old. When you press on the gas it accelerates very slowly, but will eventually reach normal speeds. The only thing is that it doesn't shift at all. I believe it's the speed sensor. After checking it, I found a blown fuse, when I replaced the fuse it blew again. There is also oil on the wires. Has anyone had this problem? I just don't want to spend money on parts unless I'm sure that the problem will be fixed, thanks.
The transmission slips when the car is is cool/cold. After it is started, the car needs to warm up for about 5 minutes before to trans will engage into any gear, forward or reverse. After it has warmed up, the transmission shifts like new. I changed the fluid/filter about 3 years ago and the fluid has good color. It seems like a sensor is faulty. Any help?
Yes. Same year and model, but a regular cab. I'm getting ready to take mine in for diagnostics. Not only do I have some slippage, but the O/D off light starts blinking after driving 1/2 hour, with no response when I hit the switch. Mine has also started lurching when going slowly or idling. I'm fearing a rebuild. Took it in last week for a fluids change, and the transmission fluid was black. Yet another monkey wrench.
I have two chevy trucks a 93 1500 4x4 and a 95 2500 2x2.......both are having similar problems.....and there are two common factors that appear in both...
the transmission will not shift out of 2nd to 3 or 4th... but when this happens both vehicles have the ANTI-BRAKE light indicator lite on the dash but when the light goes out they both start shifting again.
Sounds like an intermittent problem with the vehicle speed sensor causing the transmission to go into limp-in mode. Start by retrieving any stored ABS trouble codes. If you don't have access to an ABS capable scanner, then jumper terminals A and H on the diagnostic connector under the dash:
NOTE: if the ABS light is not on when the jumper is installed, a false code 9 may be set. If so, remove the battery negative terminal for 5 seconds to clear it.
There's a list of ABS codes at the end of this article:
Internal hydraulic seals are leaking when cold, they 'catch" and seal when they warm up. The seals are hardened from heat and age. The best preventive is to keep the transmission "COOL" and "CLEAN", a regular fluid flush & filter every 30K will keep it clean, a cooling coil in front of the condenser will help keep it cool. Since you already have the problem, the only solutions are:
1. A complete teardown and replace seals (and if you do that, you may as well do everything else it needs - rebuild, while in there).
Or
2. Add a bottle of LUCAS Transmission stop slip, that may help it. It's the only transmission additive that I ever used that actually worked.
My car drove fine the last time I drove it. Then it setup for about a month, and after that time it wouldn't shift into 2nd gear. It's a 3 speed automatic. The fluid level was a little low, it has good color, and no burn smell. What could cause it not to shift? Is there any solution I can buy? Has anyone ever had this problem?
My brother in law has a 1983 AMC Eagle 4 wheel drive hatchback its all factory with a straight six engine and a 4 speed manual transmission the car runs and drives great but when its turned off and in gear you can push it around like it is in neutral and the motor wont turn over it acts like the clutch is pushed in when its not any help in this would be greatly appreciated thanks ">
Comments
i'd say if this arrangement exists (alcan could help us out here - i don't know what they use in cars) its possible you may have an issue with the gap between the ring and its tooth/teeth and the sensor (perhaps it's mount) growing or getting larger as the vehicle warms up.
if the gap becomes larger, the signal generated by the probe may no longer be regular or strong enough to create a stable pulse train which the electronics detect, process, and convert into vehicle speed.
in short - yes.
Automotive passive speed sensors (wheel speed, trans input and output speed) are simple permanent magnet AC signal generators which depend on the disruption of the magnetic flux surrounding a magnet to induce an AC voltage signal into the windings surrounding the magnet. Frequency is translated into speed, amplitude is used for for self diagnostics. Active sensors (some newer vehicle wheel speed sensors) are Hall effect devices which produce a square wave, the frequency of which is directly proportional to RPM.
"if the gap becomes larger, the signal generated by the probe may no longer be regular or strong enough to create a stable pulse train which the electronics detect, process, and convert into vehicle speed."
If the air gap increases the issue isn't with frequency, which remains stable at a given RPM, but with voltage level or amplitude which drops to a level below which the processor can use, and initiates a system self-check.
In any event, any 3rd year apprentice should be able to hook up an oscilliscope and check the sensor output. It ain't rocket science.
Have you had your car's vibration problem resolved? I am anxious to know your solution if you have it, as my Lexus 3.0 has very similar phenominon as yours.
Thanks!
a bmw tech suggested i change the centre prop bearing,which i did but noise is still there,there is no play on front wheel bearings and noise does not go when turning,sounds worse when in second and third gears and you are driving through the gears slowley,engine still has plenty of power and you cant hear the noise if you drive hard and fast through the gears,can anybody please help.cheers adam.
Tried setting the adjustment of the shifter linkage, checked all the wires, fluid level, no help. The ring gear/torque converter bolts were too close to the engine,and tapped on the inspection
cover when it ran.I unbolted the ring gear/converter, & in park the wheels turn in opposite directions, in all other gears only the turned wheel moves, never turning the converter.
Auto trans, 1.6 eng.; have I sheared gears, a pin, etc., any way to check? Thanks.
If the trans worked before the engine swap, you've either put the flex plate on backwards, or didn't have the converter hub all the way in and engaged with the drive gear of the trans oil pump in which case you've probably torn the pump up. Start by hooking up an oil pressure gauge to the trans test port. If it reads zero, the trans is coming back out.
"I unbolted the ring gear/converter, & in park the wheels turn in opposite directions, in all other gears only the turned wheel moves, never turning the converter."
It won't. There's no mechanical connection between the converter housing and the trans input shaft at any time other than when the lockup clutch applies, and there's no connection between the trans input and output shafts unless the engine's running and driving the trans pump. Hydraulic pressure from the pump applies clutches and bands to put the trans in gear, otherwise you have neutral.Turning the wheels just turns the trans output shaft and some of the internal gears.
Engine starts with high idle at 2000+rpms. When I shift from 1st to 2nd(or any others), the rpms increase to 3000 until the clutch is left out then back to 2000. When coming to a stop, I push in the clutch and downshift the rpms increse with each downshift and at stop the engine revs and goes to 2000+. Also, if I leave it in gear and slow down with the brakes it will go to low rpms under 2000 but as soon as the clutch is in, it revvs up to 3000. Also revving the engine and/or pulling up on the gas pedal seem to have no effect on the rpms; depressing the clutch pedal a few times seems to have no effect either when at a stop.
I have requested the parts replaced because they were not the problem. I do not know what to do and at a loss of $1000!
Does anyone think this is a throttle positioning prob or throttle sensor?
Items replaced:
Gasket IN, Gasket COM, Stabilizer, Changed oil & filter, IAC. PCV, Sensor AS, and MOD ( some kind of computer motor).
My 2003 Sable has been very reliable but it has one very annoying issue:
When the car is cold and I back the car out of the driveway (maybe 20 feet) after I turn the car off it will burp out a small amount (maybe a couple of spoonfuls) of transmission fluid out of the vent. Since my driveway is concrete, the transmission fluid makes a messy sight.
The car doesn't do this when it is not cold. I have checked the transmission fluid level (when thoroughly warmed up, with the engine running parked, on level ground) and the transmission is not overfilled.
Any suggestions as to what is going on ? And how I may fix this issue ?
SYMTPOM: Fluid Venting Or Foaming
Transmission vent blocked.
Transmission overfilled.
Fluid contaminated with antifreeze or water.
Transmission overheating.
Filter damaged or improperly installed.
I'd go for a used transmission myself, plus you'll need a new clutch, pressure plate and T.O bearing, plus clutch fluid and the labor for all this.
So......
Figure a used tranny is about $800
http://www.asapmotors.com/used-bmw-engines-transmissions.htm
then we'll have probably 6 hours labor, so $600
then clutch parts, etc. maybe $300
So figure $1,500---$2,000 for everything.
Given that the car, in average condition with a good transmission, is worth may be $2,500, you see the problem.
Is this a transmission problem?
Thanks for any feedback.
Thank You
Sometimes people will trade in cars with this problem. They make real sure the car is good and warmed up when they bring them in.
We find out the next morning when we go to move the car.
the transmission will not shift out of 2nd to 3 or 4th...
but when this happens both vehicles have the ANTI-BRAKE light indicator lite on the dash but when the light goes out they both start shifting again.
thank you
http://www.troublecodes.net/gmobd.gif
NOTE: if the ABS light is not on when the jumper is installed, a false code 9 may be set. If so, remove the battery negative terminal for 5 seconds to clear it.
There's a list of ABS codes at the end of this article:
http://www.babcox.com/editorial/tr/tr89850.htm
Since you already have the problem, the only solutions are:
1. A complete teardown and replace seals (and if you do that, you may as well do everything else it needs - rebuild, while in there).
Or
2. Add a bottle of LUCAS Transmission stop slip, that may help it. It's the only transmission additive that I ever used that actually worked.