Transmission Traumas?

alcan

alcan, "Got a Quick, Technical Question?" #1818, 8 Aug 2005 9:38 am

joe3891

Any AutoZone near you , they will read codes for free.

mechanicgirl

yeah i know but the car wont budge so i got to rent one i allready know how to use it. all i was asking is if anyone else had any ideas as to what it could be.. i have worked on cars for about 15 years but i stay away from trannys so i dont know much about them...thanks

joe3891

When I have a tranny problem and not too sure what’s going on, I drop the pan, if a clutch is gone there will be a mess in the bottom. That usually will let you know how serious the problem, its easy to do and it will set your mind at ease.

jyeoman

I thought it was a problem with synchronizer, but the mechanic said if it was that it would show when he checked the shaft and bearings. I admit, I know nothing about this. There might have been a language barrier. He said he couldn't even get the car to make the noise I hear when hard accelerating. I guess he isn't into 0-80 in x seconds...

dmurden

Jake,

Did you ever get an answer to your problem? I seem to be having a simular problem with my Saturn.

Duke Murden

dxs003

Doing my normal under the hood checks on my 1996 Aurora and noticed transmission fluid low. Warmed up and filled and checked in a few weeks noticed it was low again ? Don't see anything leaking on the drive, is there someplace else this fluid can migrate ? Like into cooling system ? Can do a lot under the hood but transmission is out of my league !
:confuse:

lou351

Ive got an 89 mustang, 2.3L engine, with an AOD... I drives fine in first gear, but it wil not shift out of first, nor will it go into reverse. Any Ideas?

joe3891

GM was suppose to come out with it this summer, have you seen any?

alcan

Not yet. I'll ask our GM guys when it's goimg to be available.

dstevenson53

I have a 93' voyager with a 3.3 and overdrive tranny, 233K miles, shifts fine no slipage or any types of problems except after you drive aprox 15-20 miles in hot weather, and start to come to a stop the tranny will drop down into 2nd gear at about 40mph and stay there in 2nd gear. I shut off the engine go into work, 8hr. later start up and tranny works fine. Today I took my son to school aprox 15m round trip, and 1/2 way back home it did it and stayed in 2nd gear all the way home. I've kept the fluid changed on time, and the engine isn't running hot, all other systems are normal. Is it the tranny computor on the firewall left side? and are they available aftermarket?

Thnaks for any help in advance :confuse:

mysi

Hi all,
I just bought my first car...whoohoooo....a month and a half ago: new 2005 Civic Si. I brought it in because the gears were grinding when I shifted into 5th. The dealer's service department told me that it's the 5th gear synch. I requested a new transmission since I spoke to a few people (including a mechanic) and they suggested that I don't let anyone mess around with the transmission - especially since it's new - and just get a transmission from the factory. The service department isn't really budging so I'm not sure what to do. I know very little about this and am not sure how much leverage I really have in requesting a whole new transmission. All I know is that even though it's a small part, the transmission needs to be taken apart and it's somewhat easy to mess things up. :sick: Obviously, I know barely anything...so I need help!!!!! Any suggestions/thoughts? Thanks!!! )

peaches2

i have 1995 toyota avalon and just for the past week i've been having trouble shifting out of park. I have an automatic transmission and dont really know wher to turn or what to do. I have been able to shift out of park a couple of times but only when uit wants to work. its been getting stuck alot. i need help ASAP plz i need anybody's help.

joe3891

Good luck on trying to get a new transmission just for a synch, I bet they have a transmission tech and it will be done right. If not then you may get new tranny, have faith. I had my new auto trans. tore all down at 200 miles, 11K later going great.

dstevenson53

Well no one on here helped me figure this problem out , but I will pass on what I found out was wrong. The tranny was going into the "LIMP" mode and the problem was the "TURBINE SPEED SENSER". I hope this will help someone in the future.

Oh by the way the senser cost $20.00 at Auto Zone and they call it the "IMPUT SENSER",and it,s on the front of the tranny under the cooler lines closest to the engine, takes a 1" wernch to change it.

Dennis Stevenson
Broken Arrow Oklahoma

woddy

I just bought a used 2002 Protege5. Its beautiful and I love it, but it has developed a worrisome problem: The shifter is a bit stiff. As I drive, it gets progressively more and more difficult to shift from any gear into another. At first, I thought it just had a "tight" gearbox - more of a "characteristic" than a "problem". But after driving around town for a while, the gearbox gets so stiff that it is clear to me that something is wrong. Any thoughts?

Mr_Shiftright

Could be a dragging clutch or weak pressure plate, if it is heat related.

woddy

Could you tell me a little more about that? I don't know what a pressure plate is. When you say, "dragging clutch" is it something like the clutch isn't fully disengaged when I put it to the floor?

Mr_Shiftright

Actually the clutch disk is not fully disengaging from the flywheel, so it's llike trying to shift without depressing the clutch pedal. When you step down on the clutch pedal, an arm or lever, which is connected to the throw out bearing, presses against the spinning pressure plate and pushed the fingers of that pressure plate inwards---this releases the friction disk or clutch plate that sits behind the pressure plate. So from "left to right" it's flywheel, clutch disk, pressure plate, throwout bearing, clutch fork (or arm)...the clutch fork is operated by the clutch slave cylinder, which in turn is activated by the clutch master cylinder, which in turn is activated by your foot.

here are some diagrams and explanations for you:

http://innerauto.com/Automotive_Systems/Drive_Train/

woddy

So you feel that it is probably a dragging clutch or pressure plate...is this a common problem? Is it an expensive one? I'm unhappy with myself for purchasing a car and immediately having problems with it. I should have been more careful. I bought a service agreement with it, but I don't know if I trust that they'll actually pay out.
Could it be that there are simply adjustments that could be made to loosen the gearbox? Or that it needs lubrication?

Anyway, thanks for your help - I'm about to take the car to a mechanic who is marginally more trustworthy than most - at least I'm armed with terms such as pressure plate!

Mr_Shiftright

Well I'm just guessing. The symptoms you describe fit my guess but it could be other things, too.

mec51

hello i have a 1999 vw beetle AT transmission with a 2.0 engine it will shift fine and then it wont come out of first gear and will only let me go about 45 mph at 3 grand i took it to a transmission shop and thay hooked it up to a computer and said it was fine and that there was a electric problem some where and it was better to take it to a vw dealer can someone tell me what is wrong i can fix most things but this ones got me stumped also when i step on the gas i hear a noise when i lift of the gas it goes away it seemes like a front end noise please help me with this one thank you all

risk20

I also have the same problem with my car. The shifting becomes a problem after 5-6 miles of driving. Did you find any additive worth trying.

Thank You.

joe3891

Could be a worn valve body.

nissanrules

Transmission Is Stiff Shifting. My 91 Nissan is running strong but when it sits for a week or more in any temperature the gear shifter seams to cease up and is very hard to move into any gear. Car does not move in drive until you go down to 3rd and then back into drive I think this is a seperate problem.

au94

Hi All:
My step daughter has a 98 Satrun SL1, ~115k, auto. Recently she says that there has been a delay when she puts the car in reverse, i.e. she places it in gear nothing happens, then "thunk" the car goes into reverse. She also says that it is not shifting smoothly through the gears, maybe slipping. I have not driven the car in a while as she now lives out of state. Bottom line, are we looking at a rebuild or are there alternatives? I'm sure a rebuild is not going to be cheap. Thanks in advance.

benedetti

I have a 1987 Oldsmobile Calis with a 125-C FWD Transmission that has a harsh 3-2 downshift. It happens exactly at 15 mph everytime. Also, it doesn't do it when it's cold in the morning. It takes about 7-10 minutes to start.

I flushed the fluid, and changed the filter. No visual problems seen in the pan. I am also running Mobil 1 Full Synthetic ATF fluid.
Other than the harsh 3-2 downshift, the transmission shift and runs great.

I changed the Governor and Speed Sensor, but no improvement. I was thinking it maight be in the Valve Body. Maybe a Solenoid, a Spring, or something?? Any ideas??

Also, what is the function of the Accumulator "Check Valve" located next to the Servo???

Any help here is greatly appreciated!!

joe3891

<< what is the function of the Accumulator "Check Valve" located next to the Servo???>>

Accumulator check valve -- Opens or closes the exhaust port in the direct clutch accumulator passage. It exhausts oil from the release side of intermediate servo.

benedetti

Thanks for the info Joe3891. Do you think that a sticky check valve or a weak spring on the valve would cause the harsh 3-2 downshift?!?

joe3891

Got this information from my GM manual I bought in 87, I checked the trouble section and no mention was made of hard 3-2 down shift. If all other shifts are not hard I would say it has to be localized. I would say it's possible that valve is the problem.

benedetti

Yeah, I got the same results from my Service Manual and also from talking to a tech at a local transmission shop. There is nothing known or listed for a harsh 3-2 downshift. There are plenty of other cures/fixes for other problems, except for mine.

Something worth mentioning that I noticed yesterday after I manualy downshifted using the shift selector. I downshifted to 2nd at 20mph, 25 mph, 30mph, 35mph, and 40mph. It downshifted "correctly" without banging. Once the speed was below 20mph, the hard/harsh downshift started again.

Also, I slowed down using my left foot on the Brake, while I kept the accelerator with my right foot above 1,100 rpms. While I was doing this, the 3-2 downshift also shifted correctly.

I don't know what this new information might add to the diagnosing of the problem, but it was worth mentioning.

big_blue

Allow~ Got a 93 FS Blazer 5.7L with 223000KMs. Shifts really firm from 1-2nd when accelerating? Almost slams into 2nd when its cold? I know its got lot of kms and prolly needs a rebuild but anything you can offer~many thanks

benedetti

Your problem, unlike mine, is fairly easy to diagnose.
Your 1-2 Accumulator is bad. The Accumulator acts as a type of shock absorber for the fluid pressure inside your trans when shifting. If the Accumulator is faulty, or the spring is broken, there will be no absorbing of the pressure and therefore will "BANG" into gear really hard!! It is also know as "Fluid Shock".

I am not sure whether you can access the 1-2 Accumulator/Spring without taking the transmission apart. You might want to check a repair manual to see where the Accumulator is and if it can be replaced without taking the trans apart.

kiser

Sorry for the repeat post
I have a 97 Honda Civic LX with 110K miles on it. When taking off from a dead stop and the shift selector is in D4 the transmission will not downshift to 1st. I have to manually downshift or it sounds like a manual starting off in 3rd gear. Another interesting thing I noticed is when the vehicle is under way and I mash the accelerator it downshifts fine. I have noticed when the engine and tranny are cold everything works like it should. The problem only starts after about 15-20 minutes of driving.
I just recently change the tranny fluid with Honda fluid and, per another forum, I replaced the linear solenoid. Any suggestions?
thanks in advance.

gomez63

I just changed my driver's side CV joint and axle back to the transmission. All went fine and I also replaced the seal where the axle fits into the transmission. When I removed the seal plate and changed the seal, the gear lube ran out into the pan I had on the floor. All went well and I put it back together. I don't know how to check the level of the gear lube in the transmission now to know if and how much I need to add. Where is the plug that you check it with and how do you fill it back up? I believe I found the plug. I think it's on the front of the transmission gear box on the driver's side, on the front of the transmission facing the front of the car. Am I right? If so, how do I check the level and fill? Thanks for your help.

spin360

Well, I can't be much help I'm afraid.... I did ask a few local auto shop folk and they didn't recommend any additive for my situation... instead, recommending I just drive it till its broke due to the mileage (not something I wanted to do since I have an 80 mi commute) or getting it repaired at a transmission shop. I ended up deciding to bite the bullet and have the transmission overhauled for a princely sum. I'm not very knowledgable when talking transmissions but apparenly the internal components were worn to the point that the trans was slipping internally, and when it would sense that, try to compensate by increasing the pressure and making the shifts very rough.

map5

I'm looking for any information or advice. I have a 1990 Acura Integra 2DR Hatch, which I purchased new and have taken good care of. It has about 118k miles. This winter I started having intermittent problems, which have gotten noticeably worse this summer. For the first 10-20 minutes or so of driving the car, the automatic transmission will not shift from 2nd to 3rd. The car revs at 3000 RPM at 30 mph and 4000 RPM at 40 mph. After a while, the car will jolt a little as it finally shifts into 3rd and the RPMS will drop down to normal levels. At first this problem occurred only when I started the car for the first time each day and only for the first 10 minutes, but now (after the dealer flushed the transmission fluid) it happens every time I drive the car and for a good 20 minutes or so.

The dealer replaced a leaky water pump, checked the parts around the transmission, and flushed out the entire transmission. About $600 later, the transmission problem remains and the dealer suggests that I replace the transmission at a cost of $2550.

I recently heard that Acura's and Honda's have troublesome automatic transmissions. Should I consider my car a goner and donate it to charity? Has anyone experienced similar problems?

Any suggestions or advice would be much appreciated. Thank you.

ecdewees

Have your mechanic check the TCC solinoid could be bad. is inside transmission

benedetti

*******UPDATE*********
I dropped the pan and Servo Assembly. The "Spring" located on the Plunger was broken in two pieces. I replaced the spring and reassembled. Went for a test drive and transmission drove great!! No more harsh downshift.
Problem FIXED!! Cause: Broken Servo Spring, Cost:$1.27 at GM dealer and 4 hours labor over the Labor Day Weekend.

vasmir

Hey ye'all

I drive a 98 Z3 with a standard 5-speed transmission. Lately, it's been having problems shifting into 2nd gear... It only does this when the car is cold in the morning or after not driving for a while, but what happens is that I'll be driving in first like normal, then pull the stick into 2nd gear, and take out the clutch. The stick physically stays where 2nd gear is, but the car acts as if it's in neutral. Sometimes when I put the clutch back in the stick goes back into its natural position by itself. It&#146;s as if the stick isn&#146;t going into 2nd gear enough, but I&#146;m pulling it as far as it can go. It will do this for the first 2 minutes or so of driving, then be normal for the rest of the day. I have no idea what it is, I&#146;m pretty sure it&#146;s not my driving. Hopefully one of you guys or gals can help.
thanks

joe3891

Thanks for the update, good thing to know. I have put about 250K on two 125C and not a bit of trouble.

tray1

I have a 2004 Santa Fe with only 22,000 miles on it which is on a 5 yr. lease agreement. My clutch just gave out and the dealer I purchased it from closed 4 weeks after purchase. It had to be towed over 50 miles from my area to the next closest dealer for service. Of course, before even opening it up, they already are trying to assess the liability onto me. My mechanic looked at it before towing and warned me that they would do this. He advised that if it is clutch or transmission or any other power train problem, this should be covered under the 100,000 mile coverage. I already tried to contact customer service to no avail. In fact, the response was, "what do you want me to do?" Not very reassuring. Then the service mngr. tried to convince me to trade up and I waited another day before any action by my part. However, the service mngr. opened it up to diagnose anyway and found it not to be a defect in the clutch but rather the disc worn down to the rivets and the fly wheel may be damaged. I am looking at being liable for over $1400.00 and was told that the warranty on the clutch is only twelve months.
Can you please clarify this problem and give me advise on how to make them take care of this under warranty. I know I have a fight on my hands but I need someone with expertise in my corner. Thanks.
T Ray
:mad:

Mr_Shiftright

Other than them making a goodwill gesture to you, I think a worn clutch disc is a generally regarded as a pretty straight forward normal wear and tear type of problem, kind of like brake pads. Unless you can show that the pressure plate disintegrated or something, I think this repair may end up being your responsibility--especially if the flywheel is damaged, which suggests some possible negligence on your part (unintentional, I'm sure, but still....)

Of course read your warranty and see what it says---I don't know about your clutch warranty and exclusions. Hope you get lucky, but it's hard to get burned clutches fixed under warranty as a rule.

jjrocket

My brother runs a pretty successful transmission shop and wants me to help him in the business. I'm curious as to what the future holds for transmission repair.

Will hybrids or fuel-cell cars make the transmission repair extinct?

I have four kids and want to choose my career carefully - so any advice would be greatly appreciated. Thanks so much!

gabrielajuarez

I just purchased this used as-is 528. Love it all, ran great until out of the blue the transmission light turned on, and the engine light moments later. Then the speedometer wouldn't work and i was dragging like i was in 3rd gear, in an automatic transmission.

I took it to a transmission specialist who is perplexed at the problem. He ran the tests and many fault errors appeared that he said were not possible to happen simultaneously. So he left the car cool completely overnight after resetting it and it drove perfectly. He let it idle for a half hour and drove it again. The transmission light, engine light and 3rd geart drag happened again. He's still trying to figure out the problem.

This is my first BMW, my graduation gift to me for finishing my Master's and have NO idea about cars.

It sounds like it may be just electrical, or even a bad computer? But could it be as bad as the transmision?

Please help me figure this out? Any links or places I could research are really appreciated.

gabrielajuarez

if you see the message i just posted (99 528 BMW Transmission Heartburn), it should be clear that there is still much work in the transmission business....

i wish i were a man and could do this, job security in its last form in today's economy....

Mr_Shiftright

You will always need some device to bring mechanical advantage into the equation between engine and wheels. I can't imagine anything short of a diesel locomotive or an F-16 that doesn't need to change gears.

alcan

Vehicle speed sensor. Will cause all the symptoms you describe.

gabrielajuarez

Should I take it to a dealer to repair? Or just a bmw specialist?

I took it to a transmission specialist and they just told me its not the transmission however, it is electrical. They cannot determine whether it is the wiring or the computer. They need to check the Ken Bust System (?) between the DME and the AGS computers. The test will be $485 and will cover the work if the wiring is the problem. If it's the computer, the price will depend on which computer is faulty.

How much will this be to repair?

I greatly appreciate your response.

gabrielajuarez

Also the problem goes away when the car is cool, like it runs normally with no light indicators, and they turn on after the car is warmed up. Would that still be the Vehicle Speed Sensor?