Well you could check the fluid level and check to see that the shifter linkage is working. If those check out, then drop the pan and see if it's loaded with metallic debris and foul-smelling black-ish burnt fluid. If so, the trans is toast. A used unit from a wrecker might be your best solution, if the wrecker will warranty it and has inspected it and flushed and serviced it. (you get what you pay for).
A couple of months ago my second gear wouldn't catch immediately. If I pressed the gas the engine would race a few times then it would catch, an away I'd go. After adding fluid this seem to resolved this problem, but then the car began to feel like the engine was surging.
Finally, got it inspected today and got a quote 12 to 15 hundred to overhaul the tranny from Master Transmission in Las Vegas. (All the major seals are leaking.) The car has got about 93,000 miles on it and thankfully this is it's first major expense, though obviously not it's last.
My questions are: The mechanic said they do the work in house, so what should I expect a typical overhaul to entail? And what kind of warranty should be offered? Is there anything else I should be asking or be aware of?
AOD transmission, disassemble, clean and inspect all hard parts (pump, clutch drums, shafts, gears) and replace as necessary, check pinion end play in the carrier, replace pump bushing, case rear bushing, extension housing bushing, replace all soft parts (clutches, band, seals and gaskets), install reman converter.
Yesterday we sold our 95 Jimmy with 116K miles. About 10K ago, the transmission went out and a friend (who is a mechanic at a dealership) put in a transmission from the junkyard. About 6 hours after the buyer left, he called back to report that transmission fluid was being pushed out the vent tube of the transmission. We had only been driving the vehicle in town--he had driven it down the highway for about 30 miles so we hadn't noticed the problem. He had taken it to a dealer to get the oil changed and they pointed out the leak. We had no idea this problem existed and have agreed to try to help get this issue resolved. Does anyone have any idea what the problem might be?
He's not really a transmission specialist but he said that one of the other mechanics said it might be caused by the transmission overheating. The transmission shifts okay, though, and the fluid wasn't dark like it was cooked.
Thanks for the suggestion. It's certainly worth a try. It seems that everyone keeps leaning towards "the transmission needs to be replaced" and that might be the case; however, we would like to exhaust less costly alternatives first before we consider replacement.
I owned a 1992 Chevy Astro with a 4.3 V6 and a 4-speed automatid transmission. In 1998 with 104,000 miles, it exhibited the same symptom while on vacation 1000 miles from home.
The fluid condition looked great, and the transmission shifted perfectly, it was just leaking from the vent.
I successfully arrived at home adding 1 pint of transmission fluid for every tank of gas.
A bushing had seized on a shaft in the pump at the valve body, the rest of the transmission was in perfect shape. $950 (1998 dollars) and a new valve body later and the problem was fixed. I drove the van another 10,000 miles before selling it.
The problem I had sounds similiar, but probably could not be determined without looking inside your transmission.
Thank you for the information. I am sure that we will have to have a transmission specialist take a look but it is always good to have some ideas as to what might be wrong.
hi i am a chrysler gold master technician transmission specialist it sounds to me like you may have either a speed sensor connection issue or a bad relay the relay is easy to find its also cheap look in the power distribution center under the hood will be to your right looking from the front of the vehicle find the relay marked eatx pull it out and take to your parts store they should be able to match it perfectly what i belive is happening is the contacts on the relays on the cirus stratus line from 99 to 2002 are junk for some reason i chased one with a similar condition last year for 3 days dont laugh i lost my tail on that one write back if this works
hi yes indeed the od planetaries are junk have seen this many times if you are in michigan i can help you out if not find a used one they wreckem evey day
when was the last time the fluid was changed? does it have the proper fluid specificaly atf+3 not dexron dont let the $5 an hour oil change kid fool you it MUST have chrysler atf+3 quaker state and havoline are the only 2 companies that i know of that produce it do not use chrysler atf +4 i will kill the tourque convertor clutch i have been rebuilding these transmissions since 1988 i am quite sure with the proper clean fluid your problem should clear it self
Have you found out what is causing the OD not to kick in? My 1997 CRV (166,000miles) is having the same problem. I have had the fluid changed and other things checked, but no solution yet.
My altima 97 model shifts from gear one to two with a jerk.The fluid seem ok and im worried the auto transmission might be sending me signals.Pls help.
Hi, I have a 1995 Olds Eighty-Eighty Royale. I just spent over $800 to fix the fuel pump system. Does anyone know what common problems that this model has?
I just purchased a '91 miata after 1 month of fun driving the stick shift is nearly impossible to put into any gear. Took to mechanic and you guessed it, problem disappeared. Later that night had to run to store, sat in car 25minutes before being able to wrangle shifter into reverse then fought with it to get into first, 2nd etc.. Any ideas?
Clutch slave or clutch master cylinder leak would be my first guess.
Other possibilities in order of likelihood would be a clutch disk that is sticking to the flywheel for some reason or a bad pressure plate.
But by all means check the hydraulic fluid level in the clutch master. If it's low, there's your answer, you have a leak.
Next time you are stuck, and IF YOU ARE IN A SAFE PLACE, you can put the car in gear with the engine off and then start the car and see what happens. If the car bounces forward on the starter motor, even with your CLUTCH IN, then you definitely have hydraulic failure. With the clutch pedal pushed in, you should not be allowed to start in gear.
Hello, Ok so heres the jist of my delima. Lately My Transmission has been having MAD issues... When the Engine and Tranny are cold... It shifts gears fine (Auto) Then after it warms up... It only stays in 2nd and 3rd gears i was on the highway and it was like 110km's a hour with 4500 RPM ... So Im kinda stuck here thought the fluid might be the issue.. did a flush on it... still messed... going to replace the filter and see what happens... Might need a valve body cleaning... or maybe bearings and clutches i dunno has anyone had this problem and if so let me know!!
I bought my safari used and I picked up my son from school the tranny wouldn't shift no matter how much you hit the gas and it doesn't go in reverse anymore.Thats just to start the list of problems. I need to find another tranny can anyone help me locate a tranny for my van before it becomes a parts van. Thanks michelle
Most good wrecking yards have a "hot line" that connects to wrecking yards all over the country. If they don't have a good trans for you they can locate one and have it sent to them, and then resell to you. Ask them about this service.
Aha. Started while in gear turns out you were right on the mark its the clutch slave. Thank you for insight - hopefully will get car back today, all ready to roll. Thank you.
I have a 91 Maxima SE, auto, with 71 thousand and in showroom condition. I have stored the car summers at my winter home for 12 years. I am 74 years old and a perfectionist about my cars. I have noticed that when I am on the road going 55-70 MPH and I have to make a quick stop I can hear and feel a distinct shift down to first gear. At slower speeds the shift downs are smooth. There is no sign of transmission fluid anywhere on the underside. I wonder if this abrupt down shift is normal or what! My mechanic says there is nothing wrong, but I don't think he has ever experienced the problem. His test drives are usually slow and not at the higher speeds mentioned above. I would appreciate any feed back you can give me. Thanks.
99 toyota avalon with check engine light, troubleshoot code 1780 trans control switch (o/d cancel) out of self test range, i have changed trans fluid 3x, now at 118,000 miles the only problem i note is the car sometimes has difficulty holding in park on a slight incline, i thought that the code being a switch, might not be a big deal, did the same thing about a year ago, and then the check engine light went off. what do you suggest? thanks
I have an 02 windstar with 120,000mi. Recently after about one hour on the road the OD goes off. The switch has no effect on it. However, after stopping and restarting the engine I get about another hour of fine driving. The dealer found codes that indicated improper gear engagement. He dropped the pan and found nothing other than about one tablespoon of filings on the magnet. I suggested flushing and filling--since I had neglected to service it for the 120,000mi. He said that would be a terrible thing to do and that I should not drive it anymore until the transmission is replaced. I told him to button it up and refill. It drives fine other than that. I suspect I only need to flush and fill.
(i put the wrong title) 99 toyota avalon with check engine light, troubleshoot code 1780 trans control switch (o/d cancel) out of self test range, i have changed trans fluid 3x, now at 118,000 miles the only problem i note is the car sometimes has difficulty holding in park on a slight incline, i thought that the code being a switch, might not be a big deal, did the same thing about a year ago, and then the check engine light went off. what do you suggest? thanks
Hi, I own a '04 Mazda 3s 4dr, got it 6/04. It is a great-looking vehicle and for the money, it came very loaded. Was initially very excited about getting it. Thought it was a great value.
The car now has about 10,400 miles on it and the auto-trans is starting to act up. VERY severe up-shifts from 1st to 2nd, happens sporadically, cold or hot. Took it in to the dealer asap and had to press them to admit that 3's have been experiencing trans issues. They are doing their best to cover up a disaster here. Kicked myself 10K times for not getting a manual trans, but quick search on Google revealed that the manual trans has cold temp shifting probs also.
As I write this, my car is sitting at the dealer for the next 3-4 days! Car started making a resonant droning noise @ 55-65mph. Service manager tried to bring up issue of driver abuse and that REALLY pissed me off!! Told the idiot that the droning noise was most likely caused by the severe upshifting issue. Trans seems to be in self-destruct mode. Mazda will not last if it treats its customers like this. They have already lost me as a repeat buyer and I will tell everyone in the universe to avoid the 3 like the plague.
Hapless dealer replaced a front wheel bearing (totally wrong diagnosis) and still experienced the droning noise. Now the car is waiting for a half shaft bearing replacement. Dealer is honoring the warranty (5yr 50K miles?), but I am not very encouraged about the future of this vehicle. Would like to get rid of it asap.
Also experienced premature tire wear in back tires. The 3s came w/ Goodyear RS-A tires, likely were sticky low-mileage (Z rating?). Had to replace both rears @ 10K miles. NOT happy about that!! VERY expensive to replace, even on sale. No driver abuse, just normal driving. Rear tires had excessive inner tread wear, like rear tires toed-out too much. The rear suspnsn was re-aligned. Again, not encouraged this will improve things.
Sorry to hear you are experiencing similar problems.
I have a 98 ford escort with 75000miles, the tranny works in reverse and low but when in drive at idle it wont move you have to rev the motor high for the transmission to catch but then it goes back to not working right away.....help
I have a 1997 Dodge Ram 1500 Pickup with 96500mi and have had multple issues with the transmission. Luckly so far nothing major, or at least cost. The latest is when I put the truck in reverse, it makes noise like a loose belt. This only happens when in reverse. I am not very familar with the iner workings of the transmission but I know there are bands inside. Can they make noise like a loose belt?
1682 of 1682 Tranny Problems by gsfordgirl27 Apr 01, 2005 (12:53 pm)
On the transmission problem, has any ford escort owners had any problems with their tranny? Mine is a 1996 1.9l and it has 167K. The tranny just went and I might put in a used one? Any thoughts??? Thankyou!!!!!!!!
After 167K it's pretty much seen it's tour of duty. Not unreasonable to fail at that mileage. If you're going used, check what warranty it has AND who pays the labor if it turns out to be a dud and has to be replaced again.
I have a Buick Skylark '92 with the 3.3l v6 and after long highway driving the car stalls at stopping. I have been told by a friend that it is the solenoid for the overdrive which is causing this is and he then disconnected it (loacted on the drivers side just left of the battery). Since then the service engine light comes on and off. I am wondering if this is a satisfactory fix ( I am not worried about mileage) that wont damage the transmission or cause any further damge and just forget the check light is coming on?
I found this LUCAS trany oil at Canadian Tire. Its thick and i put it in the car Easter Weekend and I have been driving it around, It has stopped the shifting problem and its running like new. I know that I will need to fix it this summer. I will be able to get the tranny re-built at that time. Or a good used one???? Have you heard anywhere that I can locate a good used Tranny?
It doesn't sound "normal"..it sounds like the transmission is downshifting too soon. I'm afraid I don't know the insides of this unit but whatever governs the exact point of the downshift (could it be a mechanical governor?) needs to be looked at. Maybe the valve body has a sticking component, I just don't know.
I suppose there is no harm in doing a complete oil and filter change on the unit and see if that does anything. You could also chat with a transmission specialist and they might have some ideas.
I too own a 2000 Impala that does those jerking motions like someone is bumping me from behind as it shifts. Does anyone has a solution or recommendation? Any would be greatly appreciated!
I have a subaru legacy automatic transmission and i was driving it on the highway and it just stalled. I had it towed back to my house and its sitting in my driveway. The car turns on alright but when I shift it to reverse or drive or anything it kind of feels like it slides right over and doesnt catch and the car will not move in drive or reverse or anything. There were absolutely no warning signs which was the weirdest part for me. The transmission fluid was the perfect redish color. Usually when the transmission goes there are some kinds of warning signs arent there? Can anybody help?
The RPM on my altima seems to experience a drop from 2200 to about 1200 during the third change and then hesitates for a few secs before returning to normal.Any ideas as to what might be causing this.Ive only had it for a month now so dont know if this is normal.
Hello, I bought a used 1994 honda passsport and after about six months of it driving fine the transmission started slipping, it is in drive and acting like it is not in gear at all. However if i turn the car off and then back on again it will go back into gear. It seems to me like the bands are slipping, and i had a mechanic tell me that it may be the transmission fluid pump. Please help me!
Well if you shift to a higher gear the rpm is supposed to drop. The hesitation is another matter but usually if this is happening as you shift into a higher gear it sounds like an ignition load problem--bad wires or plugs or some such. When was your last tune up?
Last tune up was last week actually.I know the rpm is spsd to drop actually but in this case when the gear changes to three,it almost immediately changes to a higher gear, and then the rpm drops(drastically in my opinion) causing a slight drag for a few secs before the engine picks up on its speed.When i did the tune up, the service guy said i needed to adjust the timing as there was some engine pinging.Could this be related?Plugs have been changed.Thanks for your reply.
Sorry, i just wanted to add that that i posted trouble codes read from the MIL-1234,4182. Have no idea what these mean and havent got any reply.Please help
If you are "pinging", sure, you have to adjust the timing if you can do that on your car. Some cars are timed only by computer or by changing a sensor.
Why don't you fill up with premium and see how the can behaves?
When the car crosses 10mph there is a jerk as it moves to a higher gear. Also, when it is doing 30 or so, the RPM just shoots up from 3000 to 4000 and there is no change of speed before the car moves into the higher gear.
Comments
A couple of months ago my second gear wouldn't catch immediately. If I pressed the gas the engine would race a few times then it would catch, an away I'd go. After adding fluid this seem to resolved this problem, but then the car began to feel like the engine was surging.
Finally, got it inspected today and got a quote 12 to 15 hundred to overhaul the tranny from Master Transmission in Las Vegas. (All the major seals are leaking.) The car has got about 93,000 miles on it and thankfully this is it's first major expense, though obviously not it's last.
My questions are: The mechanic said they do the work in house, so what should I expect a typical overhaul to entail? And what kind of warranty should be offered? Is there anything else I should be asking or be aware of?
TIA, tah
Most shops give 12 months/12,000 mile warranty.
Bucking do you mean like engine speed up and slow back?
I'd flush it and check the level HOT to make sure it's right, and then see what happens.
The fluid condition looked great, and the transmission shifted perfectly, it was just leaking from the vent.
I successfully arrived at home adding 1 pint of transmission fluid for every tank of gas.
A bushing had seized on a shaft in the pump at the valve body, the rest of the transmission was in perfect shape. $950 (1998 dollars) and a new valve body later and the problem was fixed. I drove the van another 10,000 miles before selling it.
The problem I had sounds similiar, but probably could not be determined without looking inside your transmission.
does it have the proper fluid specificaly atf+3
not dexron dont let the $5 an hour oil change kid fool you it MUST have chrysler atf+3 quaker state and havoline are the only 2 companies that i know of that produce it do not use chrysler atf +4 i will kill the tourque convertor clutch i have been rebuilding these transmissions since 1988 i am quite sure with the proper clean fluid your problem should clear it self
I have a 1995 Olds Eighty-Eighty Royale. I just spent over $800 to fix the fuel pump system. Does anyone know what common problems that this model has?
Thanks
I'm a big fan of the 3800 engine. Smooth, quiet, lots of power and decent gas mileage.
Just expect to spend a few bucks on that Olds once in awhile.
Other possibilities in order of likelihood would be a clutch disk that is sticking to the flywheel for some reason or a bad pressure plate.
But by all means check the hydraulic fluid level in the clutch master. If it's low, there's your answer, you have a leak.
Next time you are stuck, and IF YOU ARE IN A SAFE PLACE, you can put the car in gear with the engine off and then start the car and see what happens. If the car bounces forward on the starter motor, even with your CLUTCH IN, then you definitely have hydraulic failure. With the clutch pedal pushed in, you should not be allowed to start in gear.
Thanks
Tim
Thanks
michelle
I have a 91 Maxima SE, auto, with 71 thousand and in showroom condition. I have stored the car summers at my winter home for 12 years. I am 74 years old and a perfectionist about my cars. I have noticed that when I am on the road going 55-70 MPH and I have to make a quick stop I can hear and feel a distinct shift down to first gear. At slower speeds the shift downs are smooth. There is no sign of transmission fluid anywhere on the underside. I wonder if this abrupt down shift is normal or what! My mechanic says there is nothing wrong, but I don't think he has ever experienced the problem. His test drives are usually slow and not at the higher speeds mentioned above. I would appreciate any feed back you can give me. Thanks.
I own a '04 Mazda 3s 4dr, got it 6/04. It is a great-looking vehicle and for the money, it came very loaded. Was initially very excited about getting it. Thought it was a great value.
The car now has about 10,400 miles on it and the auto-trans is starting to act up. VERY severe up-shifts from 1st to 2nd, happens sporadically, cold or hot. Took it in to the dealer asap and had to press them to admit that 3's have been experiencing trans issues. They are doing their best to cover up a disaster here. Kicked myself 10K times for not getting a manual trans, but quick search on Google revealed that the manual trans has cold temp shifting probs also.
As I write this, my car is sitting at the dealer for the next 3-4 days! Car started making a resonant droning noise @ 55-65mph. Service manager tried to bring up issue of driver abuse and that REALLY pissed me off!! Told the idiot that the droning noise was most likely caused by the severe upshifting issue. Trans seems to be in self-destruct mode. Mazda will not last if it treats its customers like this. They have already lost me as a repeat buyer and I will tell everyone in the universe to avoid the 3 like the plague.
Hapless dealer replaced a front wheel bearing (totally wrong diagnosis) and still experienced the droning noise. Now the car is waiting for a half shaft bearing replacement. Dealer is honoring the warranty (5yr 50K miles?), but I am not very encouraged about the future of this vehicle. Would like to get rid of it asap.
Also experienced premature tire wear in back tires. The 3s came w/ Goodyear RS-A tires, likely were sticky low-mileage (Z rating?). Had to replace both rears @ 10K miles. NOT happy about that!! VERY expensive to replace, even on sale. No driver abuse, just normal driving. Rear tires had excessive inner tread wear, like rear tires toed-out too much. The rear suspnsn was re-aligned. Again, not encouraged this will improve things.
Sorry to hear you are experiencing similar problems.
On the transmission problem, has any ford escort owners had any problems with their tranny? Mine is a 1996 1.9l and it has 167K. The tranny just went and I might put in a used one? Any thoughts??? Thankyou!!!!!!!!
I suppose there is no harm in doing a complete oil and filter change on the unit and see if that does anything. You could also chat with a transmission specialist and they might have some ideas.
Rear: tighten to 41 in.lb., back off 3 1/2 turns
Technical Questions Forum
If you are "pinging", sure, you have to adjust the timing if you can do that on your car. Some cars are timed only by computer or by changing a sensor.
Why don't you fill up with premium and see how the can behaves?
Shifty the Host
I have 65000 miles on the car.