Transmission Traumas?

rkt

New update, I took the Jimmy to a local Chevrolet service center. I played them the digital recordings I made of the noise. (First time anyone had done that.) They dropped the pan and were surprised to find only normal wear deposits. (Expected to find material defining the problem, ie. pinion gear teeth etc.) The 20+ year mechanic ran a computer diagnostic to find no codes, he did say that he was having trouble communicating with the transfer case (?). The oil in the transfer case was burnt too. I gave them the go ahead to flush the trans and service it as well as the transfer case.

 

Does this sound like a sticking valve of some sort? Help?

joe3891

>>I flush mine myself, 2 cases of ATF=$48, Filter & gasket=$12. It cost me about $60 and 2 hours of my time.<< Waste of time money and bad for the environment, all that fluid to dispose of . You are confusing a transmission with an engine. A engine has combustion products a transmission does not have. I always liked to work on a transmission over an engine because they so much cleaner. I have always done the pan drop and filter on my own vehicles and have yet to have a transmission fail , I would say you do a flush because it makes you feel good , hey keep doing it .

Mr_Shiftright

You mean in the valve body of the trans? I really don't know if that can cause your symptoms. I know it can cause loss of an upshift, but losing a gear intermittently, I really can't say.

kenb

I have a 1999 mazda B3000 extended cab 2wd automatic. It always ran great until the other day when I put it into reverse, but the truck wouldn't move. I can still drive it so long as I don't need reverse! I took the truck to 2 auto mechanics, both telling me it is the transmission and will likely cost me $2000 or more. Is that realistic?

Mr_Shiftright

That sounds about right, presuming they really go through it. You could also consider a used transmission from a wrecking yard.

ehamilto55

I have a Daewoo Leganza Automatic -- The problem I am having is while driving in traffic or just around town when I come to a stop sometimes the car does not want to go when I hit the accelerator. If this happens I have to put the car in low gear to pull over to the side of road and turn off car. When I turn car back on Everything is fine. This has only happened like 3 or 4 times in the past month. My Transmission has fluid and has recently been Flushed and filled. Dealership said they did not see anything wrong with transmission. Does anyone know why this would happen?

isellhondas

I thought they were long gone? Find a trusted independant and ask them. Avoid the chains.

icrman

You said the car does not want to go when you hit the accelerator. So does the engine rev up when you hit it? If the engine is not reving up then its not the transmission. And you say if you go manually into low gear then it will move okay?

So please describe what the engine does when you hit the gas pedal. Does it act like it would in neutral or park?

Check wiring to the transmission if it is electronic, make sure the charging system puts out the correct voltage, make sure the battery connections are okay. The basic stuff first.

If the engine does rev up, then it could be electrical if the transmission is an electronicly controlled unit. Or a valve problem of some sort.

I'm not up to date on Daewoo's.

cadillacmike

Help, My 1995 fleetwood with ONLY 161,000 miles on is is not indicating what gear I'm in anymore. This is a column shifter, the shifter works properly, i.e., you get all the correct gears, it's just that the little red needle stays in "P". Can I get a replacement linkage cable kit without having to buy a totally new instrument panel cluster. I HATE that digital dash, and WILL NOT spend hundreds to replace it!!!, now if GM made an analog replacement dash it would be a different story - but they don't. any help would be appreciated, otherwise it's off to the "recycling yard" (junkyard) to try and find a working dash unit.

ehamilto55

Yes The engine revs up as if I were in Neutral. The dealer said they did not see anything wong with transmission. I checked the battery, How do I check to see if the correct voltage is being put out?

icrman

It is most likely some sort of electrical problem.

Intermittents are very difficult to find. It could be a connector that makes and breaks contact, or a wire that is broken internally. It could be a bad ground from transmission to the car body, actually engine and transmission would share the same ground though, and since the engine is okay its likely not that. It could be a switch, it could be a bad fuse.

To check the charging system you need a good DC Volt meter, and you just simply touch the proper probes to the battery terminals, and while the engine is running the voltage should be somewhere at 14 or so volts plus or minus around .5 volts.

Yes things where so much easier and better in the old days. Automatic transmissions had no electronic controls.

And the problem could be in the computer itself. It could be the switching transister for that particular shift solinoid. When you say shutting it off clears the problem, maybe even in the Processor it self, if a logic circuit is intermittent.

I would say the dealership is correct, that there is nothing wrong with the "mechanics of the transmission" the "electrics yes"

cal22

What is the correct method for checking the transmission fluid in a RX300?

One dealer said with the engine running, while another said with the engine off.

wtd44

Are you saying that you have a digital instrumentation cluster on the dash? I had the digital problem with a turbo LeBaron Chrysler and ended up buying a replacement for the whole thing at a wrecking yard. All other solutions were too expensive to be reasonable.

icrman

I don't know for sure, But if the filler/dipstick is there in the engine compartment, you most likely will check the fluid while it is running.

If the fluid filler is a port that you access under the car then it maybe checked when turned off. But on most all it is required that the transmission be up to operating temperature.

What you need to do is go to the dealer service department and ASK to look at the proper manual for your vehicle, and see if the procedure is in it. Since it seems no one really knows for sure. Your other avenue is to stop by a few Transmission shops and ask them. If say all 3 you ask give the same answer then it is probably correct. Is there anything in the owners manual that covers that?

icrman

Is that a 4L60 transmission?

"The forward sprag clutch will overrun when the throttle is released to allow the vehicle to coast." So coasting out of gear so to say is normal on this transmission.

Unless that is a partially engaged Torque Converter Clutch that is making the noise.

Check things like battery connections, connections to the transmission itself, has the filter and fluid been changed? It could even be the computer is seeing a signal to shift down and trying to do that. Do you feel any thing when it happens? The normal sprag release will not make noise or be flet other than the feeling of the engine disconnecting from the drive train. But as soon as you get back on the gas the engine is reconnected as normal.

rkt

I ended up taking the Jimmy to the dealer. They used remote ears and were able to determine the problem was in the transfer case. Upon inspecting the internal components they found a number of items that required replacing. The main culprit was the "fork that engages the transfer case clutch". It normally has a teflon (or like)coating on one side and mine had worn off. I do not have an exploded view or parts list so my description is limited to the explination from the service writer. After rebuilding the transfer case the problem has gone away. Thanks to all for your input!

In my rush to solve the problem and get back on the road I made the error of not requesting the failed parts.

wtd44

Forget the worn out parts. The repair facility is your Santa this year! (:o]

cal22

Thank you for your input.

adamjeeps

My 99 Grand Prix has 102,000 miles. I have the 3800 engine. The tranny has never been serviced. It shifts like new except when I put it in reverse I get a clunk. It is not like a gear type noise but its like the whole front end jerks a bit. Is this something I need to worry about? Would you recommend a fluid change, flush, or nothing? Any thoughts appreciated.

alcan

It's due for a fluid and filter change anyway, but for the clunk I'd check the mounts first.

icrman

It could be like the other person said and a mount or suspension. Or it could be just normal gear set back lash that will be taken up when changing from forward to reverse or vice versa.

Its due for fluid change.

adamjeeps

I've heard that after 100,000 miles if the tranny fluid has never been changed that by changing it could cause problems. Thanks for the replies.

jrmatps

The transmission started slipping on my 01 Monte Carlo SS with about 70,000 miles on it. Took it to the local Chevy dealer. couldn't get a 'code' to pull up. Anyway, it died at 74,000 miles-the overdrive was burned up-had to be rebuilt. Trans fluid was flushed at 70,000 miles. Was told at the trans. shop that this is a common thing with this particular transmission. any thoughts?

ehamilto55

I have a Daewoo Leganza Automatic -- The problem I am having is while driving in traffic or just around town when I come to a stop sometimes the car does not want to go when I hit the accelerator.(only revs up) If this happens I have to put the car in low gear to pull over to the side of road and turn off car. When I turn car back on Everything is fine. This has only happened like 3 or 4 times in the past month. My Transmission has fluid and has recently been Flushed and filled. Dealership said they did not see anything wrong with transmission.

Another symptom is that while in Park and changing gear to reverse - seems like it jumps and revs up a little.. In neutral - seems like low power, deceleration.

 

Also the check engine light comes on when this happens. Couple days later the check engine light is off and everything is fine.

joe3891

With the TCC slipping the SES light should been on, if run with the light on it will burn up the transmission.

wtd44

If you plan to keep the vehicle for a lot of miles beyond 100K, you'd do well to consider the possibilities.

Now this brings up some issues. I too have had transmission people tell me tales of changing fluid and filters for the first time at high miles, like in the case of your Pontiac. One technician told me about cases he'd seen where just a few thousand miles beyond the fluid and filter service, the clutch surfaces went away. If there is a cause and effect relationship, I do not know. Like you, I would really like to know what is fact and what is fiction in this realm of tranny lore.

icrman

It can happen, and there are manufactures of Automatic Transmissions that claim they are sealed and never need any attention. Autotransmission fluid will degrade due to use, and looses its additive package, similar to what happens to engine oil. Plus if there is wear materials clinging to the filter it starts to become a restriction, and makes it harder for the pump to maintain the proper pressures. Yes you see alot of things here on the net written about how the transmission failed a few thousand miles after the fluid change. So use your own judgement.

icrman

Is it a 4L60-E? Was that the first fluid change?

Did they change the filter? What did the repair shop determine was the cause? Was the cooler checked?

icrman

That can be caused by the speed sensor. Or transmission controller.

When it revs up does it feel like its in neutral or does if feel like something is slipping?

adamjeeps

I hate to change the fluid because shifts feel perfect to me but the manual says to change at 100,000 miles. I wonder if the shop can drain the fluid and examine the tranny parts to determine if new clean fluid would cause damage. It seems if the only thing keeping a tranny going is built up sludge/dirt that it could go at anytime. I would like to keep it to at least 150,000 miles. I think I will go ahead and get it changed and take my chances.

imidazol97

When you drain by dropping the pan you only drain about half of the fluid (at least on my 4T65e). Changing the filter is important because of the blockage with goop and sludge.

 

If the trans is so marginal that the old fluid that can't suspend any sludge is needed, the tranny is going to fail soon. I'd change it.

alcan

Monte Carlo is front wheel drive. It's a 4T65-E.

barbarasusie

Our new 2004 Chevrolet Impala's automatic transmission randomly jumps or jerks when it downshifts. It usually feels like someone is gently bumping us from behind. Had it in to the dealership 5 times and they say they put a tranny kit on it and can't find anything wrong with it. What could the problem be? It is embarrasing to have a new car that runs this way.

 

Thanks.

icrman

Driveability, it could be a programming problem, a speed transducer problem, something on the engine not working properly, and giving the computer the wrong info. Could be shift valving, and or shift solenoids and associated valving.

And it could be the TCC not disengaging, timing of the events. That again valving, and associated electronics. Did they moniter the TCC when it down shifts? Did they moniter the transmission pressures at down shift? It can be the controller itself. This is what Electronics in automobiles is all about, a myraid of things that could cause a fault. In the old days if an Automatic transmission had some kind of problem, it was the transmission of course other than the TV control or detent linkage, now it can be almost anything electrical on the car. Dealer has all the goodies it should be easy for them to do that.

ehamilto55

Feels like it is in Neutral.

barnetbeth

Hi there- hoping for some advice if anyone has some. We have a 2000 Kia Sportage with only 49K miles on it. We live in Fl so always flat etc... and no excessive driving. Broke down on Christmas and dealer is claiming we need a new transmission which will cost appx. $4800 (if we don't need a clutch a bit less)!! They are saying that since we cannot produce proof of trans flush @ 30k mi, warranty is void. Everyone I spoke with say's even if we had that, this is far too big and should not have happened etc... Do I have any chance at arguing this to be paid? A re-built at our local shop will be about 1500-2000 but would prefer Kia to honor warranty. Any advice would be soooo appreciated! Thank you!

icrman

The control is not shifting it, due to false input, from some sensor. Usually the speed sensor.

icrman

You mentioned clutch so I guess that means it's a manual transmission. I can't believe a manual trans costing that much. And at those miles even with out ever changing the oil, it sould be just fine. So whats wrong with it? Other ideas are try to find one in a wreaking yard, on ebay, on the net here, fixing that one, shop around at transmission shops, for a good price, as around at your local autoparts houses etc.

barnetbeth

Don't know exactly what's wrong yet-everyone else say's it may just need repair but won't know til' they "get in there". That is why the dealer saying it needs new right off the bat was strange. I have already had brakes worked on under warranty, replaced tires, kept up on oil changes etc... but never knew to do a transmission flush. Very expensive lesson but it is still wrong of Kia to use that as a warranty "out" for a completely blown transmission. Anyway, thanks for the response!

alcan

Read the maintenance section of your owner's manual. If it doesn't specify transmission flush required at a given mileage, the dealer is snowing you.

icrman

Whats wrong with it.<----- Meaning, if they didn't tell you. What does or doesn't it do? Did it spit parts all over the place? That is what happens if it blows up. LOL If it just won't shift into a certain gear, this is if it is a manual transmission. Then it is most likely an easy fix. But in most cases the trans needs to be removed. If it goes into the gears and doesn't move. Its still an easy fix. It could be a broken input shaft, a broken output shaft. I need to know what it does or doesn't do. The fix as long as you can get the parts, which you can always do for a manual anyway, could be more in the $600. range or less if you find the right guy. Especially if you remove it your self. Parts? Any machine shop that specializes in gears, can reproduce any part in a manual transmission. And in most cases that part will be a way better quality and much less cost than the dealer.

ehamilto55

What are some symptoms of bad spark plug wires? Could this cause the car to miss fire or not go from a stop?

icrman

Isn't this area for Transmission questions????

 

symtoms are similar to bad spark plug, missfire, causing jerking in bad cases, high hydrocarbons - unburnt fuel. And yes to the second question.

Other ignition componets can cause a miss fire also. If it is a distributor system then there's the cap and rotor. The coil etc. If a high tension insulator breaks down or has conductive moisture on it, then it can flash over to some easier place to ground than where it is supposed to go. But other things can cause a miss fire also. Mechanical problems -valves-, fuel system problems -fuel injection-.

Mr_Shiftright

The very term "miss" means that sometimes it works and sometimes it doesn't. Also a real "miss" is load-dependent. It will always be worse the harder the car works.

 

So if you don't have an intermittent aspect to the symptom, and if it doesn't get markedly worse going up a hill, it probably is not ignition related.

wtd44

I once had a 307 V8 Olds that started going back and forth between the top two transmission speeds-- "hunting" as it is often called, when a transmission seems to hunt for the gear it wants to be in. This happened only at highway speeds. I thought surely I was experiencing the beginning of an expensive transmission problem. I replaced the original factory spark plugs with aftermarket one day, as a matter of routine maintenance. The side benefit of my effort was that the hunting disappeared, and never returned.

Mr_Shiftright

Well this is because when the engine misfired you probably lost engine vacuum and the transmission modulator sensed this. That is, your "engine load" changed, so the trans responded.

wtd44

Exactly! The plugs were "breaking down" under load.

89toy

Have 1996 Isuzu Trooper. When I upshift from second to third I get a can feel gears trying to mesh before they have completely stopped spinning.

 

New clutch and synchroes in tranny twelve months ago. At first was intermittant and now about 90% of shifts. Great vehicle, but this worries me. Ideas? Thanks.

electricdesign

Please give us as much information on your vehicle as you can. What size and type Engine? What type and model of Transmission? Is it automatic or stick shift? You mentioned clutch, but automatics have hydraulic clutches in them. If it is a stick shift, flushing is not normal, usually just drain and change the fluid. If it is Automatic, Fluid and filter changes are normally required at the manufacturer's recommended intervals (check your maintenance book). Don't know of a factory requiring a flush, especially with only 49,000 miles on it. How long is your powertrain warranty? What exactly is the problem with it? Did it give any signs of acting up before this happened or was this a sudden failure? Does it move or the slip of what? Almost $5000 to fix a tranny is too much.

Mr_Shiftright

Sounds like you either have bad synchos again or that your clutch is not fully releasing. You might drain the trans fluid and inspect it for debris. This could tell you something. Also check your hydraulic slave cylinder for full length extension, fluid level, leaks, etc.