Transmission Traumas?

lepton1

Hi,

 

I have an Accord 2002 EX/V6 for nearly 3 years and with 23k miles. According to the manual, it is the time to change the ATF. I have a few questions here:

 

1. Should I just drain and refill the fluid or should I do this 3-4 time with short drive in between in order to get a better flush?

 

2. Should I stick with Honda ATF or shift to synthetic one like ASMOIL ATF? Does it make a difference?

 

Thanks!

andy8

I have a 2005 pathfinder after 600 miles the transmission failed is any one else having a problem with there 2005 pathfinder

jrichman1

My van will not go into reverse, when i put it in reverse its like its in neutral it does not move but the engine reves up. one thing thou, is when im in my driveway it rolls down the hill then catches into reverse, but other than that it does not go. any diagnosis will be much appreciated.

alcan

Make, model, year?

gregoryc1

Use only Honda fluid. I have a 2003 4 cylinder Accord with 42,000+ miles on the clock, and I had the trans fluid drained twice. The vehicle is only 23 months old.

Mr_Shiftright

How many miles on this puppy?

lepton1

Thanks, gregoryc1,

 

But, are there any specific reason why we should stick with Honda ATF?

 

Is there not true that some brand claims their product is better, especially on synthetic stuff?

 

Regards

Parker

gregoryc1

Your warranty and / or extended warranty. In addition, everything today is "special" for the intended purpose. I have a 7 year 100,000 mile extended warranty on my 2003 Accord. I keep all my service records in one place.

jrichman1

oh yah sorry, 1992 Chevy G-30 Extended sports van

74,000 miles on it, and now when i coast down the hill in reverse it will not even go into gear, and another thingis when i am in drive it wont go into 3rd gear, but when i drive in O.D. it goes into that skipping 3rd gear. looks like it needs to be rebuilded huh?

alcan

Yep, sounds like the direct clutch has seen it's tour of duty. What's the fluid look like?

jrichman1

the fliud is clean as a whistle, seeing that i had the whole tranny flushed, filter change and fluid changed about 4 months ago, im taking it tomorrow

to the tranny shop . any heads up on how much we are talkin to fix?

alcan

Around here it won't leave much change from a $2,000.00 bill. I'd like to see the results from a pressure test before committing to a repair. Alternatives include ADCelco, GM SERTA and Jasper reman units, and lower mileage used from a reputable recycling yard which will offer some warranty AND compensation for R&R labour if the used unit's no good.

jrichman1

Well i took it to the place, it has been there for 20 years in bussiness, They ran an external test an some electronic tests, codes did pop up. After agreeing to an internal inspection, the of course later found that the planet was bad, the torge converter was bad, a couple of selinoids were bad, basically they are rebiulding the mentioned parts and all the soft parts in a tranny.

 

 And the winning price for all of this is $1,860.00 USD. But i guess i have to do it sence this van is my bread maker. Now that only comes with a 1 year 12k mile warranty, for $300 more i could get a 3 year 36k mile warranty. I chose not to get the 3 year do to finance reasons. Now you must excuse me while i go and drink a 12 pack of beer to forget the $$$ I just spent.

coudiebug

I have a 2003 Honda CRV- English built with 31,000 miles. The throttle motor/assembly was recently replaced but the car downshifts awkwardly between 2nd and 1st gears. Is more pronounced cold and gets a little better as the car warms up. It's being diagnosed this week and I am curious if it something that can be fine tuned or does it need the entire transmission replaced. Thanks...

opera_house_wk

Personally, I think a 1 year warrantee is about worthless from my own experience and from what I've heard from others on boards. In most rebuilds, especially ones selected on price, are just new seals with almost all your old parts. In my case, a professional rebuild only lasted 14 months. I rebuilt it mysef next and found five mistakes the rebuilder did. Main failure was because he didn't put in a new $7 part. In one of the clutch packs he left out one of the clutch disks on purpose because he didn't have the correct spacer to put in. Two other clutches were over 30 thou tighter than the minimum after 22K miles of wear. And this was a highly recommended shop!

wtd44

I admire your sagacity! I refer to your insight that led you to DIY the tranny and investigate the prior "professional" effort to rebuild it. Good workmanship is hard to hire.

stomoore

I just bought a 1997 Geo Prizm and the transmission sounds like it is running on a few extra RPM's. I noticed it wasn't shifting through the gears right, so I checked the transmission fluid and it was a little low. I added fluid and it seems to be shifting better, but the sound is still there. My boyfriend says it may be normal for a Geo Prizm transmission to sound this way. Can someone please advise me on this matter? Thank you.

icrman

Goes to show you that many people that are doing mechanical work are really not qualified. Most are young and never had an interest in it till the day came they had to figure out something to do with thier lives. So they become a know it all mechaninc (so they think) by going to some tech school. So that is what is out there working on your cars, is mostly a bunch of know nothings. But boy can they talk big. Another thing, is how everyone wants to go as fast as they can when doing a repair job. Well speed means nothing when you have to do the job over and over again. jrichman1 it sounds like your a way better tech, than any at that shop that did your trans.

 Sorry to rag.

Mr_Shiftright

Someone might have pulled a fast one on you. I'd suggest dropping the oil pan on the transmission, seeing if there is any metallic debris. If so, you have a problem Houston. If no undue debris, change the oil and filter and cross your fingers. This should cost under $100.

 

Go to a transmission shop that has a good reputation and is recommended by friends!

 

A "sound" isn't necessarily bad all by itself but you should keep an eye on it.

 

did you notice if the color of the fluid was very clear red or if it were murky brown and smelled like burned cork?

scape2

Automakers need to spread the word that transmissions need to be serviced just like an engine. I feel this would help alot of headaches across the board from every maker...

jgmilberg

In a lot of cases that I have come across people change the trans fluid and filter too late in it's life and it actually kills the trans. My thinking is that what little friction material that is left floating in the trans fluid is what keeps the thing working, it's either that or the flushing of the trans cleans off the clutch discs that had trapped loose friction material between them and the steels. Either way my rule is if it hasn't been changed at least once by 65,000 mile leave it alone!! So far that one simple rule has served me well.

Mr_Shiftright

I think that while there is some logic to what you say in terms of "stirring up things", that in the final analysis if a flush is going to kill the friction material, it was pretty much hanging on by its fingernails. Besides, there are filters, valve bodies and other devices that can certainly benefit from a flush.

 

But yes, if the damage is done, the damage is done, there is nothing "in a can" and no "procedure" that replaces real physical damage (mechanical wear) unless that procedure is an actual replacement of a worn part or adjustment of the wear---the latter being unlikely in most modern transmission units anymore.

rryn122

I know you all are really good with transmission problems,but I'm terrible. Can anyone tell me what they think happened or if my transmission is completely shot(hopefully not)I was test driving my 98 dodge ram 2500 automatic,so I could tell a mechanic what my transmission was doing. What happens is when you take off the transmission will shift from 1st to second,but for some reason it will not go into the next gear. tried it with overdrive on and off. The only time it would go to the next gear was when I tried to put into neutral while driving and then put it back into drive. when i finally finished test driving it,I headed out to the mechanics shop to give my description of what it was doing. While driving it there I had to go up a steep hill, it went about 50 feet up the hill and then you herd a loud noise and a jerk. It felt like it just snapped and would no longer go foward.It was like it went from drive to nutral.It felt like when a chain on a bicycle pops off the gear it is in.(that is the only way I know how to describe it)I let it role back on the level street and then tried to put it in drive again and it would not move,but it will work in reverse only. Can anyone help me out with what this is or what might of happend.The transmission read full,and I saw no leaks. The fluid color seamed to be a dark red.I didn't really notice any smell. This is the only thing I have to work out of,so I am in very dependant on it,because if it is out for over 2 weeks I will loose the only business customers I have. If it is going to have to be replaced,I financially can't. just don't have it,so basically I'm praying for a miracle.

 

thanks everyone

 

rryn122

jgmilberg

Sounds like a sun gear or planetary gear set let go. sorry to break the news to ya but not only does that equal re-build, but it will add to the total repair cost because of having to replace broken parts. A normal rebuild only covers thing like friction discs, "steels", bands and seals. They might even charge more to do an extra flush of the case to get out all the metal fragments from the broken part(s). If you find a good shop they can locate the needed parts used at a much better price than new from the dealers.

gdennison

I have a Mercury Tracer with 1.5K miles. It has the 2.0L SPI engine. The check engine like came on with a code of DTC 1744. This code appears to be related to the Torque Converter Clutch (TCC) slipping. Is this a major transmission repair?

haterz

I have a 1988 Camry. I can't go forward at all, at least not when I tried. It can go in reverse no problem. Any idea what this means?

wtd44

That's not much to go on, but if it's an automatic, you may have expensive internal problems. How about the shift linkage? If you're really in the dark on this, you might want to have a transmission shop (or dealership) check it out.

92max2

Got a 1992 Nissan Maxima GXE with an auto trans. The trans makes a whining noise when I place it in any gear but quite when in park or neutral. The is most noticeable when the car is cold and quiets down when driven for about 10 miles. The transmission works fine and does not slip. I am just concerned about the noise. Anyone have nay ideas of what is the problem or failing in the transmission. Any sugggestions would be greatly appriciated. Thanks.

real123

HAve a 98 Gr Voyager (notorious for Trans problems) with 90k. While braking to a complete stop from at least 30mph, it gives a 'push' or 'jerk forward' right before it stops. It is not that noticeable, but I notice it because it wasn't there before. My mechanic could not replicate it but he says its probably the trans and it only happens when heated up (which it wasn't during his test).

 

1. DOes this sound right?

2. What should I expect my warranty (GE) to say?

2. Assuming my warranty covers it, the warranty allows for remanufactured parts. Is this better than rebuilt?

 

Thanks for your help.

Mr_Shiftright

Hard to say. Could be wear in the pump or general wear and tear. I'd say drop the pan, inspect it for metal shavings---if it looks okay, replenish the fluid and filter, and drive away happy knowing that your 13 year old transmission is still working.

 

If there is a lot of metallic debris in the pan, you have the early warning signs of a coming failure at some point.

icrman

If the filters get dirty they can buzz. Sounds like pump cavitation. Is the fluid level correct?

And do like Mr shiftright says.

socialdrunk

My 97 CRV, with 196000km on it, doesn't want to kick into overdrive most of the time now. So when doing 100km/h, or 60mph, it revs at about 3000rpm, vs. 2500 before. I just had the transmission fluid drained, and it still does the same thing. Most of the time, after the engine is warm, and I've come to a complete stop a couple of times, it'll be ok, but what a pain! Anyone have any ideas about what it could be? Thanks in advance!

fishing1000

i need some help on transmission fluid.

At 60k miles, I drained the transmission fluid on an aotomatic ford escort 99. To my suprise, only about a quart came out. Since 1 quart came out, I added a quart of mercron V transmission fluid. After that may car does not shift to the highest gear any more. It does not shift to the higher gear when i push hard on the gas pedal. What did i do wrong? what do I have to do to fix the problem. The car belongs to my daughter and i am very desperate. Please help. Thanks.

fishing1000

I have 2 more questions:
1) what is exactly a flush of the transmission fluid? It is the same as a drain of the fluid without changing the filter?

2) Can the problem be caused by a defective speed sensor? I have read a few articles on transmission problems and people have mentioned the sensor.

Where is the sensor located in an automatic 1999 ford escort? Is it the one that is located next to the fly wheel?
Thanks.

kelpy

I have a 1998 Isuzu Rodeo with 102,000 miles, this morning it stated kicking or jerking when shifting. First it was one gear but it seems to be getting rapidly worse (for the last 2 weeks it seemed to be hesitating while up shifting and I had meant to take it in for a fluid change {I just bought this thing 2 months ago w/97,000 miles}).

I took it to the local branch of a national transmission chain (because it was within walking distance from my house)...they said it was the transfer case, they said it was noisy (I never noticed)and hard to shift into 4WD (not for me). They added fluid to the tc and the transmission...I took it home but there was no change.

I called the service dept. of a local dealer, their guy said it could be a "drivability" problem, possibly electrical, I put my OBD2 scanner on it but got no codes. He didn't even mention a possible mechanical cause.

Any help out there? I need more ammunition for when I finally take it in.

Thanks.

kelpy

Was searching the forum and my problem may have been addressed by jtk152 on Oct.23, 2003 #1192 responding to #1190 by boltzman in Isuzu Rodeo forum.

#1190 of 1510 Automatic Transmission Problems by boltzman United States of America Oct 23, 2003 (3:27 pm)
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Hi all, For the last couple of months I have been noticing that my 99 Rodeo's engine rpm is greater than before - at the same speeds. So, for e.g. it will go to 2800 at 75mph. I drove my friend's Rodeo and noted that it was 2500 at 75mph. I also notice clunking and a jolt when I put it into drive initially. Up-shifting also seems delayed. So I had the transmission fluid flushed and changed, and had it checked by the dealership (cost me $320) - to no avail. The problems still exist. They told me that it was showing a P0705 trouble code and that I should change the mode switch "and then go from there". This would cost me another $300 - but with no guarantees to fix the problem. So I decided to do some research before spending the extra $300. Can anybody think of why the transmission range/mode switch would be causing the transmission from slipping and clunking sounds when shifting to drive? I find that connection unconvincing.


#1192 of 1510 AT problems... by jtk152 United States of America Oct 23, 2003 (8:29 pm)
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boltzman- A faulty gear range switch /sensor will give you these symptoms & OBDII code. The range sensor is located on the left side of the tranny. It's connected to the shift arm that sticks out the side. P/N 8-96017-511-0. Your tranny will act up when these go bad because this sensor not only lights up the appropriate "PRND321" dash light, it also tells the PCM what gear has been selected. If the powertrain computer is not getting a clean signal from the range sensor, it will put the tranny in "failsafe" mode which yeilds hard & erratic shifts. It's only a few small bolts, a nut on the shift arm & an electrical plug to undo to get the range sensor out. I've heard that just taking it apart & cleaning the contacts can fix it. It's about a $150 dealer part. This range/mode sensor seems to be the most problematic part of the 4L30E tranny. At least it's on the outside of the case!! G/luck
Joel

df2000

You should check for any trans trouble codes at dealer, not sure if a generic code reader at AZ get these.
For example P0705 'Trans range switch illegal position' will NOT illiminate MIL.
By the way this trans will delay shift or shift in higher rpm(300-400 higher) when it cold(until ATF reach 70 C. It is normal.
If no code start from checking ATF level, there is no dipstick, correct level at fill hole, engine RUNNING, ATF is warm(90-145 F), more detail on Isuzu forum.
DON'T DO flush of trans.
Than try drain and fill, you get out about 4q from total 9q. $6 hand pump from Advance Auto work very well to put ATF back, more detail on Isuzu forum.
Couple things outside trans may really affect it performance: 1)going bad alternator, 2) on 1998+
bad IMG(intake man gasket).
Well... if after all of above checked/done you still have a problem do fancy/expensive stuff.
If it is a switch some people report to much grease inside the switch and cleaning it fix the problem.
Oh... if you do get a trouble code, report here, I can tell you short version what shop manual recomend for it.

df2000

One more thing.If dealer tell trans has to be fully rebuilt someone reported of use AutoRx in trans and return of overdrive to function.
Look for AUTORX dot com on the net.I NEVER try this stuff so USE ON YOUR OWN RISK.

evolmootion

Hello All..
I'm new here and I'm not very Car Savvy.
My Mazda 3 Hatchback has about 9500 miles on it and the transmission seems to be slipping. I can no longer accelerate properly. Going up-hill is a battle.

I bought the car from a dealer who claimed the car was returned to the lot because the owner defaulted on their loan.
Since the purchase I ahve had numerous problems.
The transmission problem is the most recent and by far the worst problem yet.
(others include, paint peeling, window making a cracking noise, fuel guage does not reflect correct fuel amt)

Is the transmission covered under the warranty?
What is the best way to deal with this?
Anyone else have problems with their Mazda 3s?
Thanks in advance for your help.

Mr_Shiftright

It should be under warranty. You can ask the local Mazda dealer to check this for you.

Also, run a CARFAX history check on this car and see if there's any problems.

If CARFAX shows a problem, like a salvage or a mileage discrepancy, contact an attorney immediately.

carkrazy

ok here we go this bits as I just got done putting new rods,mains, rings and had the head rebuilt which wasn't cheap, got done put it all back togater and put engine back in purs like a kitten here is the sucky part 475 miles later trans makes bang noise and no longer works in any gear well as we all know high dollors for new or rebuild. I had a guy tell me that one of the american car transmisions will enterchange any truth to this? if not anyone need a good desiel.

garth1

Does anyone out there know anything about these gearboxes? Mine is 3 years old and has had intermittent problems since 1 year old. Jerky irratic behaviour around take off and stopping.
I think Audi are having some problems with these boxes but are not coming clean with it!?

Mr_Shiftright

No, you can't put an American transmission in there...well I guess with enough money and talent you could put ANYTHING in anything, but practically speaking sounds like you are up for another expense.

But have it checked out...maybe you just busted a u-joint or something. I'd also check and see how well the engine installation was done and if there are cracks in the bell housing or bolts missing, etc., to indicate a sloppy installation and possible transmission damage as a result. Mercedes transmission rarely go "bang" and stop completely. Very weird.

You can also shop for a used transmission. There are lots of these cars produced and plenty in the wrecking yards.

rondi

Greetings
I have a 1998 Mazda 626LX with about 82,000 miles on it. I've known that the tranny is bad and have been holding my breath, wondering when it was going to go on me.

Yesterday the O/D light started blinking and the car bucking a bit while on a 3 hour trip to Vancouver, CA. I kept driving, and after stopping at the border, the light went off and the drive went more smoothly.

So, I think I'm due for the replacement, yes? Or do you think there's a way to baby it for a while yet? If a replacement, do you recommend going to the dealer up here (maybe cheaper than in the STates) or to an AAMCO type dealer? there are also places up here and in Seattle that do lots of replacing of Japanese engines and trannys that I could look into.

Also, I heard that even after the tranny is replaced, it doesn't tend to be very successful. Why? Also, any particular model tranny that works better with a 626 than another?

Thanks so much for your help
Rondi Lightmark

Mr_Shiftright

This may not mean a new transmission. Sometimes o/d engagement is an electrical issue.

Get a diagnosis and don't start off presuming to yourself or the mechanic that you need a transmission. Just describe the symptoms as you did here.

If you really needed a new transmission, you would not have made it to your destination I don't think.

rondi

thanks for your time. I wish I could get a definitive answer on this! I'm still in Vancouver and have talked with three Mazda dealers. Two of them say that I need a new tranny and one says that maybe it's an electrical issue and I should spend $200 on a diagnosis.

So what am I going to do? All of the info I find on the Internet indicates new tranny.

Mr_Shiftright

Is there any kind of AAA facility up there, or just down the road in Washington. Sometimes their repair clinics could help.

Well, if the dealer would agree to apply the $200 diagnostic fee to the actual repair, I'd do it.

That's a pretty stiff fee. That's two hours shop time in California. Tell them they don't get paid for thinking slowly.

labradog

My automatic 2001 Stratus occasionally will go into neutral while driving. I have tried re shifting and can only get it to work again by stopping the car and turning it off then re starting. It does not happen very often and is never predictable when it will happen. Have taken it to the dealer 3 times but of course it will never happen while they drive it and of course they won't fix what they consider is not broke. They have also done the computer diagnostic tests.

labradog

I am having similar problems with my Stratus but it will go into neutral while driving and the only way to get it back into gear is to shut the car off and start it. Did you find out what was wrong with your Daewoo?

meowtab

I just bought a 2000 neon with 145000 km on it. I drove it less than 30 km and the transmission will not shift. I can't move the vehicle at all. I can press the gas and it has high RPM's and it wont' go. It won't even reverse. Any ideas?