The ignition switch will not turn the starter when turned to start. I found the yellow start wire on the steering column bundle of wires was not getting 12v, when I turn to start. Although the start relay under the hood clicked when I turned to start. I temporarily hooked a push button switch to 12 volts and this yellow wire, now I turn the key on and push this button and the vehicle starts. Any ideas where my problem could be? some kind of shift safety switch or? thanks
Automatic or clutch? If it is automatic, there is a Park/Neutral Safety Switch located on the drivers side of the transmission. If it is a clutch, then there is a clutch switch on the clutch pedal.
Hi, ive got an altima 97 with check engine light on. The MIL gives this reading- 3 long blinks,4 short blinks;4 long blinks,1 short blink;8 long blinks,2 short blinks. Anybody have any ideas what these could mean? Thanks.
A 2000 Chevy Metro, AT, 1.3L had a oil pan gasket replaced and since then went from only starting when it was cold to not starting at all. The crankshaft position sensor was changed. Then the computer was changed with a used one with identical numbers. The car still won' start. Prior to the oil pan replacement the car ran fine. What happened?
I own a 97 saturn engine light on savs circut problem -map sensor replaced same problem put old one back when tested ok--car will not slow down replaced idle sensor -throttle body sensor -heat sensor-cleaned throttle body the only thing other was to install a cheap muffler -a mecanic told me that wrong muffler can mess up sensors--is this true? when put in park will go up to 2,000rpm will release after hitting gas also i notice will not slow down when putting into low range wrong back pressure?messing up sensors?Bob B
I have a 1990 Buick Park Ave and the turn signals quit working. I changed all the bulbs and the fuse. The flashers work but not the turn signals. Please help kshroyer :confuse:
Well I don't have a wiring diagram for your car so it's hard to say. You might have a separate flasher for the turn signals, or a defective turn signal switch. You should first off check for current at the bulb sockets so you know for sure you have no juice.
Mr Shiftright is right on the money. Hazard Flasher: Behind LH Side Of Instrument Panel Turn Flasher: Behind Instrument Panel, On LH Side Of Steering Column Brace
Well Guys I decided I am going to invest in a MAF for the car in Greece. Does anyone think I will have a problem if I buy a Bosch that Is for this car and the ford Probe SE w/atx. I heard some people mention, "make sure you get OEM parts " and this is originally a Ford sensor . All I CAN find onljne is the bosch part # B3130-81728 Thx PGP
Several Questions: ECM Code E040 - Open Power Steering Pressure Switch Circuit - (Engine Control System and Service Soon messages also present) 1. Where is this switch located? 2. Under what conditions is the switch supposed to be open and closed? 3. Can the pressure be tested in some way?
A message "Cooling Fan Fault" is displayed on the Driver Information Center, even though the fan turns on at approximately 230 degrees and apparently turns normally (i.e., free and fast, no binding) and brings the temp back down to normal. Message appears simultaneous with fan activation. Questions are: 2. Where does the signal for this message originate, 3. what input generates it, and 4. what steps can be taken to correct the faulty indication?
MAZDA 94 626 2 ltr ATX . I get a 159 MAF and a 181 (lean condition) or 118 (ECT). Trying to maintain 2000 RPM to warm up pre testing, I also get a surging to 2500 then dropping to 1500 ( CAR IN PARK). I am thinking of buying MAF but all I can find is Bosch no OEM available. I repeat, does anyone think this will cause a problem? TIA PGP
I have a '05 Mazda3s, the other day I was trying to merge onto a highway and I floored the accelerator. It stuck to the floor and I kept gaining speed, to stop this I put the car into neutral (it's an auto transmission) and obviously, the engine made a screaming sound as the pedal was floored and it was now in neutral. After about 20 seconds of this I turned the engine off and coasted to a stop. Turned out that the floor mat caught the accelerator. My question is, how much damage did I do to the engine? It started up right away and seems to run fine now. Any info would be great...Thanks
Hello all. Saturn SC2 didn't start this morning. Was completely dead. Used key to open door and hood, then jumped it. Once it had enough juice, the alarm kicked on unfortunately. Waited the alarm out, and eventually got the car started but now the alarm is no longer armed and will not respond. Any ideas or anyone experience anything similar? Thank you for any response.
I read this on the Lexus website: [1] Tires fitted with 18- or 17-in. wheels are expected to experience greater tire wear than conventional tires. Tire life may be substantially less than 20,000 miles (GS 300) or 15,000 (GS 430), depending on driving conditions.
Is that true? I would have thought the bigger the tire, the more miles before it wore out as it doesn't turn as many times as a smaller tire. Confused..... :confuse:
They are probably performance tires which wear much faster than all - seasons. Type of tire and composition of tire are the main wear factors along with how the car is driven.
Well Volvo if you know about tires maybe you could give me some info on what type to buy for a Mazda 1994 626 LXA. The car is in Greece and I am going there in about a month and will have to choose from what is available there I know zero about tires aside from the fact that I have Michelins on my car here Thx In advance PGP
I only know enough about tires to help me sell my Volvos and Caddys!!! Mr. Shifty will have more info, but I believe there is a forum called "Ask Connor at the Tire Rack" who is much more knowledgable.
They don't flex as much because they are generally lower profile, and my understanding is that you'll get more edgewear with this type of tire as a consequence. Also, if you bump up your tires 1", it will take you about 10 feet longer to stop. Also with the 18" at least you can expect a harsher ride.
my manual states the cooling system needs to be bled of air on my 92 spirit w/2.5 L whenever coolant is replaced.the pipe plug on my engine is seized and the allen is somewhat rounded off so i cannot do this.is there an alternate method to doing this?i was thinking of drilling a small hole in the thermostat to accomplish this.does anyone have any suggestions?
Hmmm....it depends on how your lines run but I think it would be best to drill out that plug, because the bleed hole has to be able to withstand pressure. It's possible you could unhook the coolant recovery tank and hold it way up in the air and fill through the recovery tank with the engine running but I can't say for sure that would work.
Oh, yeah, i forgot that trick. That's a good one. The aspirin then dissolves after a bit and the thermostat then closes as it should (after the engine has cooled down). The aspirin allows the cold thermostat to stay open during initial filling.
RE: Saturn Post # 1345 ---usually when you don't get an answer that means nobody knows. Your problem has so many possibilities that at best someone might make a long guess.
I have a 2001 Honda Prelude Type SH. Every time I start the car up, there is a squeal that comes from up front right before the car turns over. It has been happening for about a month. I had the dealer check the belts and he said everything was fine and the technician was unable to replicate the noise. What could it be?
2001 Prelude Type SH, 2022 Highlander XLE AWD, 2025 Camry SE AWD
Your message is not clear. Do you mean you hear the noise by just turning the key and not going to "start", or you hear the noise when the starter is spinning but before the engine starts, or you hear the noise after the engine starts?
Sometimes my car won't start even though I have plenty of battery power and the engine tries to turn over. I changed the plugs and air filter. (it was time anyway) Didn't fix it. I have a new fuel filter but I need help in locating it on my car. Also, how do you check to see if its the fuel pump? Once the car is running, it runs great. Can it still be the fuel pump? Thanks again for your help.
Hmmm...just a speculation, but if the noise does not occur when the engine starts up, this pretty much eliminates the belts. So this leads me to suggest that it has something to do with starter motor rotation. Perhaps a bad bearing in the starter motor (they are very powerful and exert lots of force), or a poor alignment / engagement of the flywheel-starter "mesh".
What you may need to do CAREFULLY-- is have someone listening for the noise with the hood open when you start the car---and keep their noses and fingers outta there.
Intermittent is tough, very tough. What has to be done is an intervening diagnostic when the problem is happening----in other words, get a noid light on the injectors to see if they are getting an electrical pulse, also a fuel pressure test on the injection rail at the time of the problem, also test for faulty crank sensor.
I'm switching our 2005 CR-V over to synthetic oil at under 1,000 miles. I'm using Mobil's newest one called "Extended Performance"....which they say is good for 15,000 miles. I'd like to change it at about half that number of miles -- 7,500. But Honda calls for oil changes (using regular oil) every 5,000 miles. If I use the synthetic and go 7,500 miles between changes, do I void the warranty?
you might be setting your engine up for a life of oil consumption.i would wait till theengine is out of warranty before switching to a synthetic.you want some friction to properly seat the piston rings during break in.when you deviate from the manufacturer's recommendations you will pay when something goes wrong.
My defrost on the front works, both cold and hot, but none of the other blowers work in the front. Also, the vent in the back works, but only puts out hot air. This just started. It all worked fine before. Could this be a vaccume issue? If so, how can I fix this.
I am sorry, I failed to mention in the following message, and the one before, that this is a 1996 Ford Windstar with 80,000 miles on it.
My defrost on the front works, both cold and hot, but none of the other blowers work in the front. Also, the vent in the back works, but only puts out hot air. This just started. It all worked fine before. Could this be a vaccume issue? If so, how can I fix this.
my car runs good for about 30 min and then it acts like it is runing out of gas but it has a full tank . it then will not start for about 15 min then it runs fine could this just be the fuel filter or the fuel pump going bad?
No! Don't use synthetic oil just yet. Wait until after the first 5,000 miles.
As for warranty I'd drop the oil every 5K like Honda says. Unless you are towing or driving under severe conditions or under extremes of climate you really don't need synthetic oil anyway.
Post 1345 - I would look at the automatic choke setup on the 97 Saturn next. With regard to mufflers and backpressure, it is conceivable that your check engine light will come on if you change the muffler. Anything (i.e. backpressure) that changes the residence time of the exhaust gases on the catalytic converter can trigger a sensor. Disconnecting and then reconnecting your battery cable should allow your automobile computer to reset and eliminate the check engine light if it is muffler related.
"Post 1345 - I would look at the automatic choke setup on the 97 Saturn next."
It's a fuel injected engine. They don't have a choke, automatic or otherwise.
"With regard to mufflers and backpressure, it is conceivable that your check engine light will come on if you change the muffler. Anything (i.e. backpressure) that changes the residence time of the exhaust gases on the catalytic converter can trigger a sensor."
Increased exhaust backpressure can reduce manifold vacuum, which in turn can skew the MAP sensor signal. A simple vacuum gauge can pick out a restrictive muffler.
That's news to me. All of the engines that I am aware of have some type of idle control valve that is controlled by the automobile ECU. Choke does imply fuel flow, so perhaps the terminology is wrong.
My 2001 Villager with the 3.3 engine was in recently in for a coolant change. The tech replaced the original green coolant with orange "extended life coolant". I looked in the manual later and it says specifically not to use extended life. Will this harm anything? Should I insist they change it out. Thanks for any advice.
2012 Mustang Premium, 2013 Lincoln MKX Elite, 2007 Mitsubishi Outlander.
Air/fuel mixture is determined by injector pulse width, which is controlled by the ECU based on inputs from sensors such as coolant temp, air intake temp, throttle position, manifold absolute pressure, mass airflow, and O2 feedback, but certainly not a "choke". Cold fuel enrichment is achieved by increasing injector pulse width, which holds the injector open longer and allows more fuel to enter the cylinders, or by (on a few older import systems) activating an additional cold start injector.
Idle speed is controlled by the ECU through the Idle Air Controller which allows some air past the closed throttle plate.
Comments
If it is automatic, there is a Park/Neutral Safety Switch located on the drivers side of the transmission.
If it is a clutch, then there is a clutch switch on the clutch pedal.
kshroyer :confuse:
Hazard Flasher: Behind LH Side Of Instrument Panel
Turn Flasher: Behind Instrument Panel, On LH Side Of Steering Column Brace
All I CAN find onljne is the bosch part # B3130-81728
Thx PGP
ECM Code E040 - Open Power Steering Pressure Switch Circuit -
(Engine Control System and Service Soon messages also present)
1. Where is this switch located?
2. Under what conditions is the switch supposed to be open and closed?
3. Can the pressure be tested in some way?
A message "Cooling Fan Fault" is displayed on the Driver Information Center, even though the fan turns on at approximately 230 degrees and apparently turns normally (i.e., free and fast, no binding) and brings the temp back down to normal. Message appears simultaneous with fan activation.
Questions are:
2. Where does the signal for this message originate,
3. what input generates it, and
4. what steps can be taken to correct the faulty indication?
Many thanks for any contribution.
TIA PGP
Any info would be great...Thanks
[1] Tires fitted with 18- or 17-in. wheels are expected to experience greater tire wear than conventional tires. Tire life may be substantially less than 20,000 miles (GS 300) or 15,000 (GS 430), depending on driving conditions.
Is that true? I would have thought the bigger the tire, the more miles before it wore out as it doesn't turn as many times as a smaller tire. Confused..... :confuse:
I know zero about tires aside from the fact that I have Michelins on my car here
Thx In advance PGP
Ask Connor At the Tire Rack
thanks
Shifty the Host
RE: Saturn Post # 1345 ---usually when you don't get an answer that means nobody knows. Your problem has so many possibilities that at best someone might make a long guess.
Thanks for any help.
2001 Prelude Type SH, 2022 Highlander XLE AWD, 2025 Camry SE AWD
2001 Prelude Type SH, 2022 Highlander XLE AWD, 2025 Camry SE AWD
E320 Forum
Shifty the Host
What you may need to do CAREFULLY-- is have someone listening for the noise with the hood open when you start the car---and keep their noses and fingers outta there.
My defrost on the front works, both cold and hot, but none of the other blowers work in the front. Also, the vent in the back works, but only puts out hot air. This just started. It all worked fine before. Could this be a vaccume issue? If so, how can I fix this.
As for warranty I'd drop the oil every 5K like Honda says. Unless you are towing or driving under severe conditions or under extremes of climate you really don't need synthetic oil anyway.
The crystal ball is in the shop, something about the mindreader module not working and we don't know this information.
It's a fuel injected engine. They don't have a choke, automatic or otherwise.
"With regard to mufflers and backpressure, it is conceivable that your check engine light will come on if you change the muffler. Anything (i.e. backpressure) that changes the residence time of the exhaust gases on the catalytic converter can trigger a sensor."
Increased exhaust backpressure can reduce manifold vacuum, which in turn can skew the MAP sensor signal. A simple vacuum gauge can pick out a restrictive muffler.
Idle speed is controlled by the ECU through the Idle Air Controller which allows some air past the closed throttle plate.