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That is pretty much standard for an inline 4.
Anything else may degrade smoothness and balance. I'm not saying you can change the fire order, I mean the designer or builder would not do that because..
With a standard 180 crank you could not have a 1,4,2,3 fire order. You must be looking at something wrong. You can't just look at numbers on wires.
Thanks for the reply - I'll give it a try.
Thanks again,
Paul
I have a '91 Grand Am, 2.5L, Vin "U". I just changed the plugs & I'm getting different firing orders. The owners guide says, 1-3-4-2, the GM service manual says 1-4-3-2. The old set of wires were 1-4-2-3.! Right now I have the old arrangement(1-4-2-3) & she runs ok, but it's always had terrible mileage.
Anybody know what it should be?
Thanks,
Paul
I got a reply, thanks, now ( DUH), anybody know the coil order? I mean do the connections run 1-2-3-4 looking at the coil from the bottom up ( or clockwise)?
Thanks again,
Paul
Symptoms:
When headlights are on, when either turn signal is turned on, the front signal works correctly, but sometimes fast. However, both rear brake lights flash along with the center brake light, and the turn signal does not work.
With either turn signal on hit the brake pedal, turn signals glow along with the center brake light.
Headlights off, sometimes normal turn signal operation. Hit brake pedal while turn signal on. Front signal fine. Back signal stops flashing on correct side. Brake lights slowly pulse along with turn signal on the other side.
Occasionally, with headlights on, and brake pedal depressed, turn key off but car keeps running. Not always, but at least 3 or 4 times.
Lastly, when I have parked the car (car turned off), foot still on brake pedal, open the door, a warning buzzer goes off (like I've left the headlights on). Foot off of brake, buzzer stops.
Other than throwing the car away and not experiencing Farfugnugen, any help??!!
OK, another symptom. I noticed when I just got back from the store, with the brake pedal depressed, and the car off, gauges were functional, and all the indicator lights were glowing (just like if the key was in, but the car not turned on).
Ok, a little more info.
I noticed something else this morning. Got into the car, BEFORE I put the key in, put my foot on the brake. All of the indicator lights (trouble lights, oil, temp, engine light, etc.) glowed faintly. These are all of the same indicator lights that go on when you put the key in and turn until just before starting or starting the car.
When I got to work and turned the car off, I then put my foot back on the brake. All of the prior indicator lights glowed again (this glowing is visible, but certainly fainter than when starting the car), and the needles for engine temp and fuel also moved to reflect current engine temp and fuel level.
I'm sure (well, as much as I can be), that the brake pedal is somehow involved. Is there a switch that might be bad? Or a common ground through the brake pedal?
Thanks again,
Jeff
Thanks,
Jeff
The fuel pump and tank and sock all all new o/e from the dealer.Any clues?
A neighbor said it might be the Mass air flow sensor?
Any help is greatly appreciated!!
Tom
I have a 94 camry V6 that jerks, or surges at steady speeds between 45 and 60. It happens most while very lightly pressing the accelerator, slowly decelerating from 50 to 45 in a few seconds for example. Or while going down a slight hill at 50 and lightly touching the gas. It resembles going to slow in 5th gear with a standard. I have replaced fuel filter, plugs, pcv valve, air filter. It did it before reverse starting going out, and it did it after putting in a used transmission. But I still don't think it is a transmission problem. Seems like a fuel mixture problem, or fuel pump problem. Maybe a computer problem. I have no codes and I did have shop check the fuel pressure. I also tried fuel injector cleaner. Any ideas?
Thanks.
Paul
Probably the 'lock-up' part of the tranny is staying locked-up, in an 'overdrive' gear, when it should be releasing and letting the torque converter slip. When it can't slip, it will jerk.
It basically is doing exactly what a manual does when it is in too 'high' a gear.
KOSLOW
If your wires are more than 4 years old, they probably could use replacement...wires get porous and could absorb water all along their length. That's a lot of silicon.
What are the odds that 2 transmissions would have the same problem back to back, though? And it mainly does it at 45 to 55. Never less than 45 nor more than 60. But I have thought similar theories. I even replaced the fuel filter thinking it was causing the "lock-up" to engage and disengage from getting inconsistent fuel rate. You are probably right about it being a transmission problem. That is what I thought too. Especially when reverse started slipping a month later. But after another trans, and having 2 shops stating that they think it is the engine, I'm not sure anymore. Maybe it is something simple like a computer problem, or loose motor mounts. Wishful thinking.
Thanks for your reply and food for thought.
Paul
So, any suggestions as to what might be causeing this? and if it might be the relay....where I can it?
Thank you in advance
Generally tire or wheel problems only occur at a certain speed, and not over that speed or under. Driveline vibrations also have an rpm range, but you usually feel it at low speeds especially.
I am still a newbie being taught by my father in repairing cars. I have one question though. I've been looking at the Mustang and Pontiac G6. G6 is much more fuel effiicient than the Mustang. However, I like the power performance of the mustang. But the G6 has surround sound system
Have those of you own either of these cars had any trouble as self repairs on the cars? If so, tell me more about the history.
Isn't this the first years for redesign or 'new' for both of these cars?
I wouldn't think there would be very much 'self repair' on new cars. Go to the dealer for warranty work....
You need to see what J D Powers says about 'First 90 Day' issues on both cars.
Do some internet searching, you should be able to find some reports on how these cars are doing.
But, first year is never a good time to buy anything, there are always some 'issues' that need to be worked out in the first year.
-Danny
Thanx!!!
Ben :confuse:
I was able to power-up the car again after a failed ignition try, and the dealer is going to try to diagnose it.
Any ideas would be greatly appreciated!
:confuse:
After driving for about 25 minutes, there begins to be what I consider a severe hesitation, rough idling, and reduced acceleration. The check engine light came on flashing once, but after I stopped the car to drop off my wife at work, looked around to see if I could see anything wrong under the hood, and started it up again, it was running fine and the light was off. I noticed the coolant recovery tank was low, so I put more in, but had the same problem this morning after dropping my wife off. So, to recap:
After 25 minutes, rough idling, bad acceleration, rough idling. Turn car off five minutes, works fine for another 25. I have no idea, and since the "Check Engine" Light won't stay on, the OBD2 won't help, I don't think. Any help in figuring out what is happening would be appreciated.
Thank you for your time and concern in this matter.
Randy Cline
What do you think the problem could be? Does the sensor just needs to be reset? How much are we talking about to fix this?