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did you fix this problem? i'm having the same problem with my 2002 durango, except it's the right side. i think its the switch under the dash.
email me if you can.
thanks
brady628@comcast.net
Bob
What makes me think of the pinion angle is that under load the springs tend to "warp" around the axle. This was a HUGE problem for some GM trucks (may be still is!)
Checking the pinion angle requires a special tool that measures angles (I'm forgetting what it's called).
The alternative is to try an angled spacer under the axle to spring perch and see what it does. You'll want to tip the nose of the axle further downwards and you'll want to use the minimum change available - 1 degree or less.
Hope this helps.
'11 GMC Sierra 1500; '98 Alfa 156 2.0TS; '08 Maser QP; '67 Coronet R/T; '13 Fiat 500c; '20 S90 T6; '22 MB Sprinter 2500 4x4 diesel; '97 Suzuki R Wagon; '96 Opel Astra; '11 Mini Cooper S
thank you
Host
My father-in-law has a 2001 Chevy Astro raised roof conversion van. The van is AWD and has 80K miles on it. Recently, a noise has started coming from the front passenger side tire area. When you are cruising at 35mph +, a vibration will come from the tire that sounds like there is a balance problem. The weird thing is that it will make the noise for about a mile, and then go away, and then start up again several miles down the road and last for another mile. You cannot feel the vibration in the steering, but it is easy to hear, and does cause a little vibration inside the van. Would this most likely be a balance problem, a belt issue with the tire, or something suspension related? Tonight, I am planning to take that wheel/tire off, and move it to the back of the van, and put the rear wheel/tire in it's place to see if that changes anything. By the way, there are probably 20K miles on the tires, and there are no noticeable wear problems associated with the tire in question.
I tested drived a 1998 Ford Mustang standard coupe with 76k mi and manual transmission. The problem is the steering wheel start to vibrate a little on highway when it reaches 60-65 mph, but it is back to normal after reaching 70 mph. The oil has been changed regularly, but the timing belt/chain has never been changed. In the last 6 months, the car ran only about 100 miles. It got brand new tires. What could be the causes of the vibration? Is this a big problem?
Help me, pls.
driving it. It now starts quickly and runs smoothly but the idle is sitting at about 2000 rpms and after it warms up the idle falls down and goes back to 2000 (up &
down) continuously. The Ford NGS with a Mazda interface card pulls codes
56, 65, 14, and 1 out. One of those codes is a MAP sensor and one is a transmission temperature (-40) code. The O/D sensor light is flashing. The MAF unit is fine (swapped w/known good one) and the TPS is fine too. Any ideas?
You could also have a leak. If you lose all your refrigerant or even some of it, the AC compressor might not go on even though it is okay.
It's unlikely your compressor has failed internally, since it would usually seize or make horrendous noises--it is after all like a little engine.
But really, there is only one right way to do this:
Recover all residual refrigerant, evacuate the system to deep vacuum and recharge with the correct weight of refrigerant.
So there's no way to kind of guess if you have the right amount (in grams) of refrigerant in there. You can have too little but you can also have too much. So if you evacuate you can measure what's in there and add accordingly after you have deep vacuum. You need deep vacuum to get rid of all moisture in the system.
The past month has been a nightmare literally and the car has been in the shop more than at my home. I'm getting so frustrated! Any idea what this next (spark plug) wires is going to set me back? Thanks, I appreciate any information very much.
Candie
If it IS the base system like I had, the relay in the Convenience Center under the hood went bad on ours, on a very hot day where the car had been sitting and cycling on and off while the kid slept in the back seat and the wife shopped.
I can check a service manual for 93 and tell you shortly which relay it was. Some of the relays are the same and I could switch a good one from a circuit I didn't need for the bad one after I got home. RElay was less than $10 I believe.
The fact it worked and suddenly didn't work is a clue. Mine had occasionally seemed to warm up too much before it cut back it--that was the relay not making contact when it first went closed to turn the compressor back on. And then it just quit that one super hot day when it was superhot under the hood idling and using the air.
If you have the manual system not the automatic let me know, I'll look up the relay to check.
2014 Malibu 2LT, 2015 Cruze 2LT,
That being said, are you in an area where there is DEQ testing with a safety inspection?
If you are, the vehicle will fail.
Check the DOT regulations.
For vehicles less than 10,000 GVW:
TFI fuel systems meet FMVSS 301 (Federal Motor Vehicle Safety Standards), VESC-22 (Vehicle Equipment Safety Commission), NFPA 1192, ANSI 119.2, RVIA (Recreational Vehicle Industry Association) regulations, CARB (California Air Resources Board), and EPA (Environmental Protection Agency) regulations. FMVSS 301 states that anyone who alters a vehicle must meet or exceed the structural integrity and performance of the OEM (Original Equipment Manufacturer) fuel system. A fuel system includes anything associated with fuel systems such as the fillneck, tank, gasoline lines, fuel pump, emissions canister and fasteners.
By the way, do I have to change that fluid at 90k like it says in the manual?
Oil that has broken down from time or use may not show any indication of a problem, especially, any of the heavy lube oils, such as 90w, 85w90 or 85w140
It is far cheaper, to replace the oil, than it is to replace the transfer case.
Are you serious?? :confuse:
We're not talking rocket science here, we are talking the most BASIC of ALL repairs.
First off, where did you get the "Honda Recommendations".
I'd like to see where it states in print, that the oil plug washer must be replaced.
Some places will reuse the washer. Where you get the idea that it will damage your oil pan is beyond me. Other than seeing re-used washers leak occasionally, I have never seen an oil pan damaged by re-using the washers.
This is another one of those things where folks think that mechanics are a bunch of high school drop outs who don't have enough intelligence to do a simple job that they can't do themselves.
They might be temporary, but they might be permanent.
Second questions would a 96 w/ only 40K miles need a front wheel bearing already - LAST C4
Wheel bearings can easily be removed and inspected. It's a very distinct noise--call it a "ballsy rumble or growl" --it's not a whining sound, it's much lower pitched.
Rotating the tire out of the front position should have caused the noise to move. The fact that the noise is still on the front immediately after moving the tire says, it's something else.
Perhaps a wheel bearing.
2014 Malibu 2LT, 2015 Cruze 2LT,
My dealer has told me they need to replace the whole dashboard unit at a cost of over $800!!! I'm pretty ticked off cause the car is under the warranty in Time but only over few thousand in miles and I am a loyal Nissan owner (over 7 cars). They tried to get me under the Goodwill Program, but I was denied. I have my car "maintained" at the dealership every 5,000 miles and get replaced whatever they tell me needs replacing at the time. I DON'T sign on for the "Scheduled MaintenceProgram" cause I see no need to spend over $300 for them to fill my washer fluid, check my cruise control, check my tire pressure, check the parking brake etc.
Can anyone help me with the diagnosis and any chance of raising the issue further at Infiniti to get results?
thanks
Host
I'm guessing you are saying - 'As I come to a stop and push in the clutch, the RPM's of the engine 'jump' (increase).'
If this is the problem, this problem was recently discussed in the PICKUPS - FORD RANGER message area. (Your Mazda is a twin/clone of a Ranger).
And someones solution was that the Throttle Position Sensor (TPS) had failed. Replacing will cure the problem.
Contact attorney. Or file in small claims.
2014 Malibu 2LT, 2015 Cruze 2LT,
I called Ford, they have no A/C kits available for the car. Its been a HOT summer and its not getting any better, I love my car, but sitting in traffic at 85+ degrees and no A/C is killing me.
IMO, it will cost more in the long run the do something like retrofit the AC than it would to just buy a car that already has it.
2020 Acura RDX tech SH-AWD, 2023 Maverick hybrid Lariat luxury package.
However, you still have to COLLECT, as Small Claims doesn't send out a battalion of bill collectors; nonetheless, any shop with a shred of pride would not want a legal judgment against them.
They should arrive at some compromise at least. Maybe it was just bad luck for them---I'm not saying they are evil---but a good shop stands behind their work. Some days you just have to eat it.
You should seek legal help.
They will be able to direct you in which route you should take.
As was stated, you should go to a reputable shop and get an estimate. Have them put everything they say in writing.
You guys are sure about this right? Although they asked what Ford said and I told them Ford said it was five-and-dime work too.
Also, do you think I should let them do the transfer case fluid change while I am there? My concern is that one really doesn't ever have to do the transfer case, sort of like a transmission, unless something bad is happening because that's when your problems start. Sort of the "if ain't broke, don't fix" attitude.
As for flushing the transfer case, I'd do whatever the factory manual says---the only time I'd second guess the manual is if you are fording streams or launching a boat, where there is the possibility of contamination of the gear oil.
Raise and suitably support vehicle.
Right front tire and wheel assembly.
Six push clips and right front lower splash shield.
Loosen belt tension pulley retaining nut and tension bolt.
Power steering drive belt from pump pulley.
INSTALLATION
Install or Connect the following:
Power steering pump drive belt to pump pulley.
NOTE: Inspect pump drive belt alignment on power steering pump pulley and crankshaft drive pulley before adjusting belt tension.
Adjust pump drive belt tension.
NOTE: Measure power steering pump drive belt deflection using thumb pressure (approximately 10 kg (22 lbs.) . A properly adjusted drive belt should deflect 7 to 9 mm (0.28 to 0.35 inch) .
Tighten belt tension pulley nut.
NOTE: Tighten belt tension pulley nut to 45 Nm (33 ft. lbs.) .
Right front lower splash shield; secure with six push cups.
Right front tire and wheel assembly.
Lower vehicle.
NOTE: A "new belt" is a belt with less than 5 minutes of running time on an engine. A "used belt" is a belt with more than 5 minutes of running time on an engine.
As for the starting problem, it is more than likely that the starter solenoid/relay or the starter armature is getting "heat soaked".
What happens is, when the windings get extremely warm, the swell and bind.
If you let it cool a while, does it start then?
anyone know a way around this ? :confuse:
As for the not starting problem... yes, after it has cooled off 10-15 mins. it starts right up as if nothing was wrong to begin with. I usually lift the hood and just let it sit a while. Is there a way to fix this?