Did you recently take on (or consider) a loan of 84 months or longer on a car purchase?
A reporter would like to speak with you about your experience; please reach out to PR@Edmunds.com by 7/22 for details.
Options

Got a Quick, Technical Question?

1…2425272930…114

Comments

  • dualsportdualsport Member Posts: 2
    The ignition switch will not turn the starter when turned to start. I found the yellow start wire on the steering column bundle of wires was not getting 12v, when I turn to start. Although the start relay under the hood clicked when I turned to start. I temporarily hooked a push button switch to 12 volts and this yellow wire, now I turn the key on and push this button and the vehicle starts. Any ideas where my problem could be? some kind of shift safety switch or? thanks
  • 0patience0patience Member Posts: 1,712
    Automatic or clutch?
    If it is automatic, there is a Park/Neutral Safety Switch located on the drivers side of the transmission.
    If it is a clutch, then there is a clutch switch on the clutch pedal.
  • doyindoyin Member Posts: 22
    Hi, ive got an altima 97 with check engine light on. The MIL gives this reading- 3 long blinks,4 short blinks;4 long blinks,1 short blink;8 long blinks,2 short blinks. Anybody have any ideas what these could mean? Thanks.
  • eeeeeeee Member Posts: 1
    A 2000 Chevy Metro, AT, 1.3L had a oil pan gasket replaced and since then went from only starting when it was cold to not starting at all. The crankshaft position sensor was changed. Then the computer was changed with a used one with identical numbers. The car still won' start. Prior to the oil pan replacement the car ran fine. What happened?
  • rbillieuxrbillieux Member Posts: 36
    I own a 97 saturn engine light on savs circut problem -map sensor replaced same problem put old one back when tested ok--car will not slow down replaced idle sensor -throttle body sensor -heat sensor-cleaned throttle body the only thing other was to install a cheap muffler -a mecanic told me that wrong muffler can mess up sensors--is this true? when put in park will go up to 2,000rpm will release after hitting gas also i notice will not slow down when putting into low range wrong back pressure?messing up sensors?Bob B
  • kshroyerkshroyer Member Posts: 2
    I have a 1990 Buick Park Ave and the turn signals quit working. I changed all the bulbs and the fuse. The flashers work but not the turn signals. Please help
    kshroyer :confuse:
  • Mr_ShiftrightMr_Shiftright Member Posts: 64,481
    Well I don't have a wiring diagram for your car so it's hard to say. You might have a separate flasher for the turn signals, or a defective turn signal switch. You should first off check for current at the bulb sockets so you know for sure you have no juice.
  • 0patience0patience Member Posts: 1,712
    Mr Shiftright is right on the money.
    Hazard Flasher: Behind LH Side Of Instrument Panel
    Turn Flasher: Behind Instrument Panel, On LH Side Of Steering Column Brace
  • Mr_ShiftrightMr_Shiftright Member Posts: 64,481
    I knew that... :D
  • mazda626atxmazda626atx Member Posts: 227
    Well Guys I decided I am going to invest in a MAF for the car in Greece. Does anyone think I will have a problem if I buy a Bosch that Is for this car and the ford Probe SE w/atx. I heard some people mention, "make sure you get OEM parts " and this is originally a Ford sensor .
    All I CAN find onljne is the bosch part # B3130-81728
    Thx PGP
  • wmay80wmay80 Member Posts: 2
    all my gauges on my buick come and go ive checked all the fuses but think there may be an electrical problem somewhere between can you help
  • clif2clif2 Member Posts: 5
    Several Questions:
    ECM Code E040 - Open Power Steering Pressure Switch Circuit -
    (Engine Control System and Service Soon messages also present)
    1. Where is this switch located?
    2. Under what conditions is the switch supposed to be open and closed?
    3. Can the pressure be tested in some way?

    A message "Cooling Fan Fault" is displayed on the Driver Information Center, even though the fan turns on at approximately 230 degrees and apparently turns normally (i.e., free and fast, no binding) and brings the temp back down to normal. Message appears simultaneous with fan activation.
    Questions are:
    2. Where does the signal for this message originate,
    3. what input generates it, and
    4. what steps can be taken to correct the faulty indication?

    Many thanks for any contribution.
  • mazda626atxmazda626atx Member Posts: 227
    MAZDA 94 626 2 ltr ATX . I get a 159 MAF and a 181 (lean condition) or 118 (ECT). Trying to maintain 2000 RPM to warm up pre testing, I also get a surging to 2500 then dropping to 1500 ( CAR IN PARK). I am thinking of buying MAF but all I can find is Bosch no OEM available. I repeat, does anyone think this will cause a problem? :)
    TIA PGP
  • jackr319jackr319 Member Posts: 1
    I have a '05 Mazda3s, the other day I was trying to merge onto a highway and I floored the accelerator. It stuck to the floor and I kept gaining speed, to stop this I put the car into neutral (it's an auto transmission) and obviously, the engine made a screaming sound as the pedal was floored and it was now in neutral. After about 20 seconds of this I turned the engine off and coasted to a stop. Turned out that the floor mat caught the accelerator. My question is, how much damage did I do to the engine? It started up right away and seems to run fine now.
    Any info would be great...Thanks
  • Mr_ShiftrightMr_Shiftright Member Posts: 64,481
    Probably it's fine. If you had damaged it, you would know it, believe me. No load revving is not as harmful sometimes as severe "lugging" uphills.
  • ben000ben000 Member Posts: 1
    Hello all. Saturn SC2 didn't start this morning. Was completely dead. Used key to open door and hood, then jumped it. Once it had enough juice, the alarm kicked on unfortunately. Waited the alarm out, and eventually got the car started but now the alarm is no longer armed and will not respond. Any ideas or anyone experience anything similar? Thank you for any response.
  • famof3kidsfamof3kids Member Posts: 160
    I read this on the Lexus website:
    [1] Tires fitted with 18- or 17-in. wheels are expected to experience greater tire wear than conventional tires. Tire life may be substantially less than 20,000 miles (GS 300) or 15,000 (GS 430), depending on driving conditions.

    Is that true? I would have thought the bigger the tire, the more miles before it wore out as it doesn't turn as many times as a smaller tire. Confused..... :confuse:
  • volvodan1volvodan1 Member Posts: 188
    They are probably performance tires which wear much faster than all - seasons. Type of tire and composition of tire are the main wear factors along with how the car is driven.
  • mazda626atxmazda626atx Member Posts: 227
    Well Volvo if you know about tires maybe you could give me some info on what type to buy for a Mazda 1994 626 LXA. The car is in Greece and I am going there in about a month and will have to choose from what is available there
    I know zero about tires aside from the fact that I have Michelins on my car here
    Thx In advance PGP
  • volvodan1volvodan1 Member Posts: 188
    I only know enough about tires to help me sell my Volvos and Caddys!!! Mr. Shifty will have more info, but I believe there is a forum called "Ask Connor at the Tire Rack" who is much more knowledgable.
  • Mr_ShiftrightMr_Shiftright Member Posts: 64,481
    Yes, volvodan gave you a good steer, there...and I'll give you the live link:

    Ask Connor At the Tire Rack

    thanks

    Shifty the Host
  • Mr_ShiftrightMr_Shiftright Member Posts: 64,481
    They don't flex as much because they are generally lower profile, and my understanding is that you'll get more edgewear with this type of tire as a consequence. Also, if you bump up your tires 1", it will take you about 10 feet longer to stop. Also with the 18" at least you can expect a harsher ride.
  • crankshaftcrankshaft Member Posts: 105
    my manual states the cooling system needs to be bled of air on my 92 spirit w/2.5 L whenever coolant is replaced.the pipe plug on my engine is seized and the allen is somewhat rounded off so i cannot do this.is there an alternate method to doing this?i was thinking of drilling a small hole in the thermostat to accomplish this.does anyone have any suggestions?
  • Mr_ShiftrightMr_Shiftright Member Posts: 64,481
    Hmmm....it depends on how your lines run but I think it would be best to drill out that plug, because the bleed hole has to be able to withstand pressure. It's possible you could unhook the coolant recovery tank and hold it way up in the air and fill through the recovery tank with the engine running but I can't say for sure that would work.
  • alcanalcan Member Posts: 2,550
    Use an aspirin or your headache pill of choice to hold the thermostat open while filling the system.
  • rbillieuxrbillieux Member Posts: 36
    Message 1345--Sauurn no response why? got e-mail --said to post this so that people would know Bob Billieux
  • Mr_ShiftrightMr_Shiftright Member Posts: 64,481
    Oh, yeah, i forgot that trick. That's a good one. The aspirin then dissolves after a bit and the thermostat then closes as it should (after the engine has cooled down). The aspirin allows the cold thermostat to stay open during initial filling.

    RE: Saturn Post # 1345 ---usually when you don't get an answer that means nobody knows. Your problem has so many possibilities that at best someone might make a long guess.
  • clif2clif2 Member Posts: 5
    No replies yet. If no one has any of the answers, can anyone direct me to a website that might be more appropriate?
    Thanks for any help.
  • nyccarguynyccarguy Member Posts: 17,487
    I have a 2001 Honda Prelude Type SH. Every time I start the car up, there is a squeal that comes from up front right before the car turns over. It has been happening for about a month. I had the dealer check the belts and he said everything was fine and the technician was unable to replicate the noise. What could it be?

    2001 Prelude Type SH, 2022 Highlander XLE AWD, 2025 Camry SE AWD

  • Mr_ShiftrightMr_Shiftright Member Posts: 64,481
    Your message is not clear. Do you mean you hear the noise by just turning the key and not going to "start", or you hear the noise when the starter is spinning but before the engine starts, or you hear the noise after the engine starts?
  • nyccarguynyccarguy Member Posts: 17,487
    I hear the noise when the starter is spinning, just before the engine turns over.

    2001 Prelude Type SH, 2022 Highlander XLE AWD, 2025 Camry SE AWD

  • kshroyerkshroyer Member Posts: 2
    Sometimes my car won't start even though I have plenty of battery power and the engine tries to turn over. I changed the plugs and air filter. (it was time anyway) Didn't fix it. I have a new fuel filter but I need help in locating it on my car. Also, how do you check to see if its the fuel pump? Once the car is running, it runs great. Can it still be the fuel pump? Thanks again for your help.
  • greasykid1greasykid1 Member Posts: 336
    Have 2001 E320 MB. Need to know where cabin air filter is & how to replace it. Thx.
  • Mr_ShiftrightMr_Shiftright Member Posts: 64,481
    You might check with the E320 wagons forum, which is here:

    E320 Forum

    Shifty the Host
  • Mr_ShiftrightMr_Shiftright Member Posts: 64,481
    Hmmm...just a speculation, but if the noise does not occur when the engine starts up, this pretty much eliminates the belts. So this leads me to suggest that it has something to do with starter motor rotation. Perhaps a bad bearing in the starter motor (they are very powerful and exert lots of force), or a poor alignment / engagement of the flywheel-starter "mesh".

    What you may need to do CAREFULLY-- is have someone listening for the noise with the hood open when you start the car---and keep their noses and fingers outta there.
  • Mr_ShiftrightMr_Shiftright Member Posts: 64,481
    Intermittent is tough, very tough. What has to be done is an intervening diagnostic when the problem is happening----in other words, get a noid light on the injectors to see if they are getting an electrical pulse, also a fuel pressure test on the injection rail at the time of the problem, also test for faulty crank sensor.
  • journalboyjournalboy Member Posts: 7
    I'm switching our 2005 CR-V over to synthetic oil at under 1,000 miles. I'm using Mobil's newest one called "Extended Performance"....which they say is good for 15,000 miles. I'd like to change it at about half that number of miles -- 7,500. But Honda calls for oil changes (using regular oil) every 5,000 miles. If I use the synthetic and go 7,500 miles between changes, do I void the warranty?
  • crankshaftcrankshaft Member Posts: 105
    you might be setting your engine up for a life of oil consumption.i would wait till theengine is out of warranty before switching to a synthetic.you want some friction to properly seat the piston rings during break in.when you deviate from the manufacturer's recommendations you will pay when something goes wrong.
  • ehallehall Member Posts: 6
    My defrost on the front works, both cold and hot, but none of the other blowers work in the front. Also, the vent in the back works, but only puts out hot air. This just started. It all worked fine before. Could this be a vaccume issue? If so, how can I fix this.
  • ehallehall Member Posts: 6
    I am sorry, I failed to mention in the following message, and the one before, that this is a 1996 Ford Windstar with 80,000 miles on it.

    My defrost on the front works, both cold and hot, but none of the other blowers work in the front. Also, the vent in the back works, but only puts out hot air. This just started. It all worked fine before. Could this be a vaccume issue? If so, how can I fix this.
  • kemo4kemo4 Member Posts: 2
    my car runs good for about 30 min and then it acts like it is runing out of gas but it has a full tank . it then will not start for about 15 min then it runs fine could this just be the fuel filter or the fuel pump going bad? :(
  • alcanalcan Member Posts: 2,550
    Could be either. The proper diagnostic routine is to check fuel pressure when it's acting up.
  • Mr_ShiftrightMr_Shiftright Member Posts: 64,481
    No! Don't use synthetic oil just yet. Wait until after the first 5,000 miles.

    As for warranty I'd drop the oil every 5K like Honda says. Unless you are towing or driving under severe conditions or under extremes of climate you really don't need synthetic oil anyway.
  • ziggster00_ziggster00_ Member Posts: 1
    where is the ignition control module located on a mazda b4000
  • 0patience0patience Member Posts: 1,712
    Year, Make, Model and engine. :confuse:

    The crystal ball is in the shop, something about the mindreader module not working and we don't know this information.
  • john500john500 Member Posts: 409
    Post 1345 - I would look at the automatic choke setup on the 97 Saturn next. With regard to mufflers and backpressure, it is conceivable that your check engine light will come on if you change the muffler. Anything (i.e. backpressure) that changes the residence time of the exhaust gases on the catalytic converter can trigger a sensor. Disconnecting and then reconnecting your battery cable should allow your automobile computer to reset and eliminate the check engine light if it is muffler related.
  • alcanalcan Member Posts: 2,550
    "Post 1345 - I would look at the automatic choke setup on the 97 Saturn next."

    It's a fuel injected engine. They don't have a choke, automatic or otherwise.

    "With regard to mufflers and backpressure, it is conceivable that your check engine light will come on if you change the muffler. Anything (i.e. backpressure) that changes the residence time of the exhaust gases on the catalytic converter can trigger a sensor."

    Increased exhaust backpressure can reduce manifold vacuum, which in turn can skew the MAP sensor signal. A simple vacuum gauge can pick out a restrictive muffler.
  • john500john500 Member Posts: 409
    That's news to me. All of the engines that I am aware of have some type of idle control valve that is controlled by the automobile ECU. Choke does imply fuel flow, so perhaps the terminology is wrong.
  • toomanyfumestoomanyfumes Member Posts: 1,019
    My 2001 Villager with the 3.3 engine was in recently in for a coolant change. The tech replaced the original green coolant with orange "extended life coolant". I looked in the manual later and it says specifically not to use extended life. Will this harm anything? Should I insist they change it out. Thanks for any advice.
    2012 Mustang Premium, 2013 Lincoln MKX Elite, 2007 Mitsubishi Outlander.
  • alcanalcan Member Posts: 2,550
    Air/fuel mixture is determined by injector pulse width, which is controlled by the ECU based on inputs from sensors such as coolant temp, air intake temp, throttle position, manifold absolute pressure, mass airflow, and O2 feedback, but certainly not a "choke". Cold fuel enrichment is achieved by increasing injector pulse width, which holds the injector open longer and allows more fuel to enter the cylinders, or by (on a few older import systems) activating an additional cold start injector.

    Idle speed is controlled by the ECU through the Idle Air Controller which allows some air past the closed throttle plate.
Sign In or Register to comment.

Helpful Tools

Most popular vehicles