Did you recently take on (or consider) a loan of 84 months or longer on a car purchase?
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A reporter would like to speak with you about your experience; please reach out to PR@Edmunds.com by 7/22 for details.
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Don't know if its the cable, speed sensor or the odometer itself.
Anyone know?
This crap always happens when you switch engines of different years. You might get a scan and see what code is being thrown. I think your wire switching and cable business is just a little reckless. You need to be more methodical, if you don't mind me encouraging you to avoid a disaster here.
However, I only average about 1,800 miles per year. Changing the oil every 3 months, when the car can sit for a week or two without being driven seems way too frequent; but 3750 miles could take 2 years or more to get to, which seems too infrequent.
What would you suggest as a reasonable oil change interval in the circumstances? What about for other standard maintenance, such as changing the other fluids, air filter, and timing belt?
Thanks for the suggestions.
If you are going to replace the oil pump, that's fine but you might also want to mic the main bearings while you are in there and see if bearing loss is why you are dropping oil pressure. If your main bearings are sloppy, an oil pump really isn't going to help. You can also see if your oil screen is totally clogged--that could cause your problem, too.
So, first get your numbers, then drop the pan and start investigating, going from easiest (clog) to pump (which you can measure also and check for unacceptable wear limits) to bearings.
If it's bad bearings you may want to consider a used engine. A rebuild will be quite expensive.
And as far as doing it yourself, I suggest a good floorjack and jackstands and an oil filter wrench (although I've been getting by without that for years now, but it would make it easier). You, of course, need an oil catch pan, but, most importantly, you need a way of disposing of the used oil. Many auto parts stores provide this service, and some towns do it in their recycle center. Yes, its an easy job, but messy, and, personally, I've found that its just not worth it. It costs me about $18 between the filter and oil to do it myself vs. $27 at a certified mechanic. I'll pay the extra $9.
'11 GMC Sierra 1500; '98 Alfa 156 2.0TS; '08 Maser QP; '67 Coronet R/T; '13 Fiat 500c; '20 S90 T6; '22 MB Sprinter 2500 4x4 diesel; '97 Suzuki R Wagon; '96 Opel Astra; '11 Mini Cooper S
If your sidewall is chunked, have it inspected immediately. That's a BAD place for tire damage.
Is this a difficult repair for the do-it-yourselfer? Can anyone provide the procedure to remove the intermediate shaft? Thanks.
2001-2004 Buick Regal
2001-2003 Cadillac Seville -- with RPO JL4 (Control Active Brake)
1997-2004 Chevrolet Cavalier
2000-2004 Chevrolet Impala, Monte Carlo
1997-2004 Pontiac Sunfire
2000-2004 Pontiac Bonneville
2004 Pontiac Grand Prix
This bulletin is being revised to update Grand Prix model year information, and include repair information to prevent damage to the SIR coil. Please discard Corporate Bulletin Number 04-02-35-004B (Section 02 - Steering).
Condition
Some customers may comment on a clunk type noise coming from the front of the vehicle during a turning maneuver. This condition may also be felt through the steering wheel when the vehicle is stationary and the wheel is rotated from steering stop to steering stop.
Cause
The clunk noise may be caused by a stick-slip condition in the intermediate shaft. An interaction with the steering system creates a vibration that travels up the steering column to the steering wheel.
Correction
Replace Intermediate Steering Shaft
Notice: : The wheels of the vehicle must be straight ahead and the steering column in the LOCK position before disconnecting the steering column or intermediate shaft from the steering gear. Failure to do so will cause the SIR coil assembly to become uncentered, which may cause damage to the coil assembly. Insert J 42640 (steering column anti-rotation pin) into the steering column access hole in order to lock the steering column.
A new intermediate steering shaft has been released to address the clunk noise.
Important: Engineering changes have been made to the Service Parts available through SPO. The Service Parts for the vehicles listed in this bulletin will no longer require lubrication of the Intermediate Steering Shaft.
Install a new shaft following the Intermediate Steering Shaft Replacement procedure in the Steering Wheel and Column sub-section of the Service Manual.
Parts Information, Part Number, Description
10367811, Shaft -- Intermediate Steering -- Bonneville / Seville
10377680, Shaft -- Intermediate Steering -- Cavalier / Sunfire
10376430, Shaft -- Steering Gear -- Impala
10376429, Shaft -- Steering Gear -- Monte Carlo / Regal
10376428, Shaft -- Steering Gear -- Grand Prix
Parts are currently available from GMSPO.
Thanks
It it possibly a wheel bearing? It sounds like it is from the rear where 80K X-ones have been for about 10K. They were switched from side to side and the noise seemed to move with the tire. I rotated the left rear and it's straight, smooth and shows no signs of tread separation.
How can I tell wheel bearing noise? I had a front wheel bearing on 93 LeSabre go out and it growled. I was told then the later ones were cheaper to replace because they had a different design.
2014 Malibu 2LT, 2015 Cruze 2LT,
It is completely opposite, though, of doing clutch drops from redline, as you also say he does.
He's 16 and has gone through two clutches? And thinks he knows what double-clutching is? Sounds like you need to get a father figure involved.
It's pretty hard to burn out a clutch in a couple of days. You'd have to be a real klutz. You'd have to really WANT to destroy a clutch.
Sounds to me like this clutch was ready to fall off a cliff and you just breathed on it.
I don't want to rebuild what was not a good experience in the first place and I'd like to look into putting in something such as a Toyato engine. Does anyone have any thoughts on tis?
Thanks
When i use the gas pump at the gas station, the "gas gun" repeatedly recoils as if the tank were full and it's irritating because each time i pump about half a gallon or so and it goes "clank." I know for a fact that the gas tank was not even close to full, since i only had about 1/5 of a tank, and it still recoils every half gallon or so until it is full for sure.
it seems to me that something in the car is registering the quantity of gas incorrectly OR is it a coincidence that the gas station's pumps are not working right, which i doubt. (i've only visited the gas station twice, because i just got the car)
my problem is: what the heck is going on? the probelm seems to be my car itself, but i can't tell what the problem is and if it's serious and what can be done to fix that.
Otherwise it's something to do with your gas tank venting system, and whether that's curable or not I don't know. It would be great if you could ask the owners of identical cars what they are experiencing. We don't have a 200SX forum unfortunately.
Shifty the Host
Also, we've got a miss or hesitation that started about 3 months ago. We seem to
think it is more frequent when lights and electronics are turned on. The computer
says that it is the Mass Airflow sensor is having problems. We've changed out that
part with a used one. Is this a misdiagnosis, could the problem be alternator related.
this weekend, I had a quick but long trip and I put reg. gas in the tank. immediately, the engince began hesitating and now the 'service engine soon' light has come on and begun flashing occasionally.
could switching to the cheap stuff have been the sole cause of this reaction?
FYI: I am 40 yrs old- male , I drove 2 Corvette for 15 yeers and no way I was pressing on the accelerator. My foot was on the brake only as the engine continued toaccelerate. I slways thought most uncontrolled rapid accelarations were people getting the brake and accelerator pedals mixed up. Now I am not sure.
Sounds like a stuck throttle linkage or throttle plate or some such..only other hting I can think of is a weird cruise control.
You need to write to DC write away and tell them what happened just like you wrote it here. They will definitely red flag a complaint like this. It would be great if a factory rep from the Zone Office or District Office could come out to your dealer and look this car over carefully. In fact I'd insist that this be arranged.
When GM upgraded to the series 2 (205HP/230TQ) in the mid 90's, what was the real reason behind them basically sitting on that "hand" (thinking of poker)? At the time, those were darn good numbers and while there isn't anything wrong with the engine (I own a 98 Regal GS), it seems odd the world's largest mfr of cars would not upgrade their bread and butter engine for a decade in a marketplace that is showing it can eat them alive.
Is this just a symptom of GM's "disease", where they let their product get old (as well as the stuff that goes in their product) or did they never intend to upgrade the series 2 - in a power way, anyway. There is more to a car purchase than just power, but when Honda and Toyota can tout 225-240-280 HP engines I would think it makes it hard to brag about your 195-200-205 HP offerings.
I know the Series 3 has been out a couple of years, but weren't its mods more about emissions control and reworking the area of noise, vibration, and harshness? I've also read the uptick in HP in the Grand Prix was due solely to the supercharger, not the base engine.
I can't build and tear apart an engine by any means, but can see the mistakes GM is making and wondered if the 3800 V-6 is a victim of their behind the times mindset or what.
Thanks