My odometer is running at half speed. eg drive a 2 miles rgisters one mile. Don't know if its the cable, speed sensor or the odometer itself. Anyone know?
The security system cuts the fuel off before you start the car. I don't know of any that allow you to start the car. But I could be wrong (one always learns new things)and if you want, find the relay for the alarm system and pull it out and bridge the appropriate wires. That's what I did with my car, but its alarm system refused to allow the car to start at all.
This crap always happens when you switch engines of different years. You might get a scan and see what code is being thrown. I think your wire switching and cable business is just a little reckless. You need to be more methodical, if you don't mind me encouraging you to avoid a disaster here.
I just bought a '92 Accord. Most of my driving is short trips in-city. The manual lists an oil change interval of 3750 mi. or 3 months for severe conditions.
However, I only average about 1,800 miles per year. Changing the oil every 3 months, when the car can sit for a week or two without being driven seems way too frequent; but 3750 miles could take 2 years or more to get to, which seems too infrequent.
What would you suggest as a reasonable oil change interval in the circumstances? What about for other standard maintenance, such as changing the other fluids, air filter, and timing belt?
3.2 motor has 123000 miles with oil gage not light my oil pressure drops with in 5 minutes of start up and has a slight knock now in the top end. I ran gunk crankcase cleaner thru and changed oil at first that seamed to help got 7 minutes before the pressure dropped I feel it's my oil pump and I'm hopping some one could confirm this?
I'd do it every spring, once a year then, but I would make a point to get in at least one 1/2 hour trip every month or so, where the engine warms up completely. The only danger here of your limited use is that you will collect excessive moisture in your crankcase and possibly lead to sludging and possibly also fuel dilution, which is real bad. The engine needs to warm up completely now and then to burn off moisture and excess fuel from cold starts and short trips.
first off, you need to screw in a manual (analog) numerical oil gauge and find out what the real numbers are.
If you are going to replace the oil pump, that's fine but you might also want to mic the main bearings while you are in there and see if bearing loss is why you are dropping oil pressure. If your main bearings are sloppy, an oil pump really isn't going to help. You can also see if your oil screen is totally clogged--that could cause your problem, too.
So, first get your numbers, then drop the pan and start investigating, going from easiest (clog) to pump (which you can measure also and check for unacceptable wear limits) to bearings.
If it's bad bearings you may want to consider a used engine. A rebuild will be quite expensive.
I just put new pads and rotors on the front of my 99 Grand Prix. Immediately afterward the car developed a vibration through the steering wheel at 60mph and above. I had the tires rotated and rebalanced, but it did not help. My only other thought is that one of the new rotors is defective and out of balance. Has anyone experienced this problem with new rotors?
hey, sorry i don't have an answer but thats only because i'm lost when it comes to cars. I really need your help i'm so lost that i can't even find the oil filter can you reply back with an answer? Thx. Ricky
that's a question open to much debate. You should change it with every oil change. How often should you do an oil change? Well, what kind of driving do you do? Highway? City? 10 minute drives? hour-long drives?
And as far as doing it yourself, I suggest a good floorjack and jackstands and an oil filter wrench (although I've been getting by without that for years now, but it would make it easier). You, of course, need an oil catch pan, but, most importantly, you need a way of disposing of the used oil. Many auto parts stores provide this service, and some towns do it in their recycle center. Yes, its an easy job, but messy, and, personally, I've found that its just not worth it. It costs me about $18 between the filter and oil to do it myself vs. $27 at a certified mechanic. I'll pay the extra $9.
'11 GMC Sierra 1500; '98 Alfa 156 2.0TS; '08 Maser QP; '67 Coronet R/T; '13 Fiat 500c; '20 S90 T6; '22 MB Sprinter 2500 4x4 diesel; '97 Suzuki R Wagon; '96 Opel Astra; '11 Mini Cooper S
I got a new $5 gas cap and the light went off after driving about 5 miles and letting sit over night. A lot cheaper than a diagnostic fee... If the gas cap is old, get a new one and see if that works.
I've had my Acura TL for 2 weeks and pulled too close to the curb yesterday when I went to park. Scraped the alloy rim - ARGH!! Any suggestions on how to remove the scratches? Or am I branded for life? (also took a small chunk out of the sidewall, should I be concerned about that?) Thanks.
My 2000 Bonneville with 45,000 miles has a rattling or clunking feel in the steering wheel when making low speed turns. I understand this is a common problem in GM vehicles. About 3 years ago at 16,000 miles the dealer lubed the intermediate steering shaft under warranty, but now the problem is back.
Is this a difficult repair for the do-it-yourselfer? Can anyone provide the procedure to remove the intermediate shaft? Thanks.
Clunk Noise from Front of Vehicle During Turning Maneuver/Steering Wheel Rotation (Replace Intermediate Steering Shaft) #04-02-35-004C - (Dec 2, 2004)
2001-2004 Buick Regal 2001-2003 Cadillac Seville -- with RPO JL4 (Control Active Brake) 1997-2004 Chevrolet Cavalier 2000-2004 Chevrolet Impala, Monte Carlo 1997-2004 Pontiac Sunfire 2000-2004 Pontiac Bonneville 2004 Pontiac Grand Prix
This bulletin is being revised to update Grand Prix model year information, and include repair information to prevent damage to the SIR coil. Please discard Corporate Bulletin Number 04-02-35-004B (Section 02 - Steering).
Condition Some customers may comment on a clunk type noise coming from the front of the vehicle during a turning maneuver. This condition may also be felt through the steering wheel when the vehicle is stationary and the wheel is rotated from steering stop to steering stop.
Cause The clunk noise may be caused by a stick-slip condition in the intermediate shaft. An interaction with the steering system creates a vibration that travels up the steering column to the steering wheel.
Correction Replace Intermediate Steering Shaft
Notice: : The wheels of the vehicle must be straight ahead and the steering column in the LOCK position before disconnecting the steering column or intermediate shaft from the steering gear. Failure to do so will cause the SIR coil assembly to become uncentered, which may cause damage to the coil assembly. Insert J 42640 (steering column anti-rotation pin) into the steering column access hole in order to lock the steering column.
A new intermediate steering shaft has been released to address the clunk noise.
Important: Engineering changes have been made to the Service Parts available through SPO. The Service Parts for the vehicles listed in this bulletin will no longer require lubrication of the Intermediate Steering Shaft.
Install a new shaft following the Intermediate Steering Shaft Replacement procedure in the Steering Wheel and Column sub-section of the Service Manual.
Is there a safety issue with this problem? I have 45K on a 2001 Bonneville. I only notice the problem as described above when turning while stationary (such as backing out of a tight parking spot). I'm not sure I want to spend the money right now since I am thinking of trading. Thanks.
Yeah, I guess I need to decide whether buy the new shaft, or lube it again. Either way, the shaft has to be removed. Do you have the procedure to do so? Is it difficult to do?
87 Nissan Maxima - A loud door buzz can be heard clearly inside & outside of the driver's door. It is constant if the car is off or running. Only thing stopping it is to unplug battery. Seems to be from around door handle or window ?!? Can't narrow it down - keyless entry system, door locks, key light, door unlock, window?? I don't need a discussion - I just your idea of what this could be or where to start - Thanks!
You could selectively remove one fuse at a time and see when it stops. Then look up the fuse # in your owner's manual to see what it controls. You may wish to insure that you know your radio codes, etc. before you start pulling fuses.
Recently bought a 99Sentra SE with factory anti-theft system. However, I don't have a key pad for the system. Today, the system somehow set and it truly is an immobilization system. How do I work around the system to permanently disable it? Have a Haynes tech manual. Thanks.
98 LeSabre, 120K. I have a slight wow-wow noise that varies. It may be mixing with slight drag of rear brakes on drums that causes a put-put sound after backing out of driveway. The wow-wow noise comes and goes. If blower is on above lowest speed I don't notice it. My wife says it has been there a long time.
It it possibly a wheel bearing? It sounds like it is from the rear where 80K X-ones have been for about 10K. They were switched from side to side and the noise seemed to move with the tire. I rotated the left rear and it's straight, smooth and shows no signs of tread separation.
How can I tell wheel bearing noise? I had a front wheel bearing on 93 LeSabre go out and it growled. I was told then the later ones were cheaper to replace because they had a different design.
I have been driving my borther-in-law's mitsubishi galant for <4 weeks. The car is older and I have been trying to be careful. as is it newer to me, I have ridden the clutch a little bit, but stopped that in a few days. He drives like a maniac. He revs the engine up and likes to bury the needle on the Tach. He also loves to practice "double Clutching". he says that these things do NO damage to the car and that this is good driving. he thinks my early shifting and riding the clutch for a few days has worn out the clutch. Now he's demanding that I pay for the repairs. Not to mention that he has a broken motor mount. he acknowledged when we first drove the car that the gear box was a bit worn. Am I being unreasonable to think he's responsible? could I have damaged the clutch in just a few days of learning his car? I've been driving 14 years on manual transmissions without a problem and he's just 16 and burned out 2 now. by the way, what is double clutching?
you and your brother-in-law, but double-clutching is probably the easiest possible way to shift, as far as wear on the clutch and transmission is concerned.
It is completely opposite, though, of doing clutch drops from redline, as you also say he does.
He's 16 and has gone through two clutches? And thinks he knows what double-clutching is? Sounds like you need to get a father figure involved.
double-clutching is a matter of technique...you can do it well or you can butcher it. In any event, it's not easy on the synchro rings of the transmission if you don't match the gear speed and engine rpm nicely.
It's pretty hard to burn out a clutch in a couple of days. You'd have to be a real klutz. You'd have to really WANT to destroy a clutch.
Sounds to me like this clutch was ready to fall off a cliff and you just breathed on it.
Compressoin tests show something bad has happened down deep in my 95 SL1. I don't want to rebuild what was not a good experience in the first place and I'd like to look into putting in something such as a Toyato engine. Does anyone have any thoughts on tis? Thanks
sometimes the pitch changes when turning the steering wheel while in motion.the loads on the bearing increase or decrease depending which direction you steer.
When i use the gas pump at the gas station, the "gas gun" repeatedly recoils as if the tank were full and it's irritating because each time i pump about half a gallon or so and it goes "clank." I know for a fact that the gas tank was not even close to full, since i only had about 1/5 of a tank, and it still recoils every half gallon or so until it is full for sure.
it seems to me that something in the car is registering the quantity of gas incorrectly OR is it a coincidence that the gas station's pumps are not working right, which i doubt. (i've only visited the gas station twice, because i just got the car)
my problem is: what the heck is going on? the probelm seems to be my car itself, but i can't tell what the problem is and if it's serious and what can be done to fix that.
Well hard to say. Could be the gas station---so you could try another place---and also you should crawl underneath and see if your gas tank is badly dented.
Otherwise it's something to do with your gas tank venting system, and whether that's curable or not I don't know. It would be great if you could ask the owners of identical cars what they are experiencing. We don't have a 200SX forum unfortunately.
I had a chance to look at my problem with the cooling fan this weekend. I found two fuses under the hood on the drivers side wheel well that controlled the cooling fan. I pulled out both fuses to make sure they were still good and all was okay. I started the engine and let it idle to regular temperature and the fan started up right before the half way "Normal" range. I turned the car off for about 10 min. and re started it. The fan came on at about the same range and stayed on both times to where as the temp. stayed steady. Thanks to all for all of your help.
:confuse: I have a rodeo and yesterday we stopped then tried to start it and it turned over but didnt catch. All the lights work, everything except the engine fully starts. We checked the battery, all the fluids, and all the lines.. We tried to jump it just in case, but it started then stopped once again. I dont think its the starter because its turning. It just seems like the engine isnt getting any fuel in it. Does anyone know what the problem could be?
We purchased a 93 Mercury Capri and have been having problems with the water pump belt on the alternator. We've gone through 4 - 5 belts and are still trying to figure out why. Any suggestions would be appreciated. The battery seems to be charging just fine, but we are thinking that maybe the bearings have gone bad.
Also, we've got a miss or hesitation that started about 3 months ago. We seem to think it is more frequent when lights and electronics are turned on. The computer says that it is the Mass Airflow sensor is having problems. We've changed out that part with a used one. Is this a misdiagnosis, could the problem be alternator related.
I have only put premium in my 1999 e-150 since I bought it in SEPT.
this weekend, I had a quick but long trip and I put reg. gas in the tank. immediately, the engince began hesitating and now the 'service engine soon' light has come on and begun flashing occasionally.
could switching to the cheap stuff have been the sole cause of this reaction?
Don't think so--very unlikely unless the gas was bad. Your car's computer should compensate for any change in octane, and I think is designed to run on 87 isn't it? An unfortunate co-incidence.
I have a new Magnum (70 miles on it). While driving 20 mph under idle power, my car rapidly accelerated. I stepped on the brake and came to a stop, but the engine reved to 3000 rpm. I slowly eased off the brake but the car would have taken off. I re-applied the brake and came to a stop, but the car still wnated to take off as the engine was at 300 rpm. What do you do in this situation. Since I was at a stop, I shifted to neutral, the engine almost red-lined, I quickly shifted into park and turned off the engine. I checked that the floor mat was not up against the accelerator. It was not. I re-started and drove 30 miles home with no problem. I hope this doesn't happen again.
FYI: I am 40 yrs old- male , I drove 2 Corvette for 15 yeers and no way I was pressing on the accelerator. My foot was on the brake only as the engine continued toaccelerate. I slways thought most uncontrolled rapid accelarations were people getting the brake and accelerator pedals mixed up. Now I am not sure.
Just replaced Struts (inserts) on a 93 Merc Villager with 150k (hwy mostly) miles. Followed book instructions, replaced inserts only. Top bearings, rubber components etc- all looked very good. On test ride the pass. side has a dull "thump" that sounds as if the coil spring in not seated fully in the stop on the mounting plate. Visually appears ok. All is tight. The only possible thought is that the thin rubber pad on that bottom mount is somewhat worn (not ripped just aged)and were not readily available for replacement. Any suggestions?
Sounds like a stuck throttle linkage or throttle plate or some such..only other hting I can think of is a weird cruise control.
You need to write to DC write away and tell them what happened just like you wrote it here. They will definitely red flag a complaint like this. It would be great if a factory rep from the Zone Office or District Office could come out to your dealer and look this car over carefully. In fact I'd insist that this be arranged.
I'd asked in the sedans forum a few questions that had been bubbling under my brain's surface and the host there redirected me to this spot, thinking I might find a few folks more willing to consider the subject.
When GM upgraded to the series 2 (205HP/230TQ) in the mid 90's, what was the real reason behind them basically sitting on that "hand" (thinking of poker)? At the time, those were darn good numbers and while there isn't anything wrong with the engine (I own a 98 Regal GS), it seems odd the world's largest mfr of cars would not upgrade their bread and butter engine for a decade in a marketplace that is showing it can eat them alive.
Is this just a symptom of GM's "disease", where they let their product get old (as well as the stuff that goes in their product) or did they never intend to upgrade the series 2 - in a power way, anyway. There is more to a car purchase than just power, but when Honda and Toyota can tout 225-240-280 HP engines I would think it makes it hard to brag about your 195-200-205 HP offerings.
I know the Series 3 has been out a couple of years, but weren't its mods more about emissions control and reworking the area of noise, vibration, and harshness? I've also read the uptick in HP in the Grand Prix was due solely to the supercharger, not the base engine.
I can't build and tear apart an engine by any means, but can see the mistakes GM is making and wondered if the 3800 V-6 is a victim of their behind the times mindset or what.
Comments
Don't know if its the cable, speed sensor or the odometer itself.
Anyone know?
This crap always happens when you switch engines of different years. You might get a scan and see what code is being thrown. I think your wire switching and cable business is just a little reckless. You need to be more methodical, if you don't mind me encouraging you to avoid a disaster here.
However, I only average about 1,800 miles per year. Changing the oil every 3 months, when the car can sit for a week or two without being driven seems way too frequent; but 3750 miles could take 2 years or more to get to, which seems too infrequent.
What would you suggest as a reasonable oil change interval in the circumstances? What about for other standard maintenance, such as changing the other fluids, air filter, and timing belt?
Thanks for the suggestions.
If you are going to replace the oil pump, that's fine but you might also want to mic the main bearings while you are in there and see if bearing loss is why you are dropping oil pressure. If your main bearings are sloppy, an oil pump really isn't going to help. You can also see if your oil screen is totally clogged--that could cause your problem, too.
So, first get your numbers, then drop the pan and start investigating, going from easiest (clog) to pump (which you can measure also and check for unacceptable wear limits) to bearings.
If it's bad bearings you may want to consider a used engine. A rebuild will be quite expensive.
And as far as doing it yourself, I suggest a good floorjack and jackstands and an oil filter wrench (although I've been getting by without that for years now, but it would make it easier). You, of course, need an oil catch pan, but, most importantly, you need a way of disposing of the used oil. Many auto parts stores provide this service, and some towns do it in their recycle center. Yes, its an easy job, but messy, and, personally, I've found that its just not worth it. It costs me about $18 between the filter and oil to do it myself vs. $27 at a certified mechanic. I'll pay the extra $9.
'11 GMC Sierra 1500; '98 Alfa 156 2.0TS; '08 Maser QP; '67 Coronet R/T; '13 Fiat 500c; '20 S90 T6; '22 MB Sprinter 2500 4x4 diesel; '97 Suzuki R Wagon; '96 Opel Astra; '11 Mini Cooper S
If your sidewall is chunked, have it inspected immediately. That's a BAD place for tire damage.
Is this a difficult repair for the do-it-yourselfer? Can anyone provide the procedure to remove the intermediate shaft? Thanks.
2001-2004 Buick Regal
2001-2003 Cadillac Seville -- with RPO JL4 (Control Active Brake)
1997-2004 Chevrolet Cavalier
2000-2004 Chevrolet Impala, Monte Carlo
1997-2004 Pontiac Sunfire
2000-2004 Pontiac Bonneville
2004 Pontiac Grand Prix
This bulletin is being revised to update Grand Prix model year information, and include repair information to prevent damage to the SIR coil. Please discard Corporate Bulletin Number 04-02-35-004B (Section 02 - Steering).
Condition
Some customers may comment on a clunk type noise coming from the front of the vehicle during a turning maneuver. This condition may also be felt through the steering wheel when the vehicle is stationary and the wheel is rotated from steering stop to steering stop.
Cause
The clunk noise may be caused by a stick-slip condition in the intermediate shaft. An interaction with the steering system creates a vibration that travels up the steering column to the steering wheel.
Correction
Replace Intermediate Steering Shaft
Notice: : The wheels of the vehicle must be straight ahead and the steering column in the LOCK position before disconnecting the steering column or intermediate shaft from the steering gear. Failure to do so will cause the SIR coil assembly to become uncentered, which may cause damage to the coil assembly. Insert J 42640 (steering column anti-rotation pin) into the steering column access hole in order to lock the steering column.
A new intermediate steering shaft has been released to address the clunk noise.
Important: Engineering changes have been made to the Service Parts available through SPO. The Service Parts for the vehicles listed in this bulletin will no longer require lubrication of the Intermediate Steering Shaft.
Install a new shaft following the Intermediate Steering Shaft Replacement procedure in the Steering Wheel and Column sub-section of the Service Manual.
Parts Information, Part Number, Description
10367811, Shaft -- Intermediate Steering -- Bonneville / Seville
10377680, Shaft -- Intermediate Steering -- Cavalier / Sunfire
10376430, Shaft -- Steering Gear -- Impala
10376429, Shaft -- Steering Gear -- Monte Carlo / Regal
10376428, Shaft -- Steering Gear -- Grand Prix
Parts are currently available from GMSPO.
Thanks
It it possibly a wheel bearing? It sounds like it is from the rear where 80K X-ones have been for about 10K. They were switched from side to side and the noise seemed to move with the tire. I rotated the left rear and it's straight, smooth and shows no signs of tread separation.
How can I tell wheel bearing noise? I had a front wheel bearing on 93 LeSabre go out and it growled. I was told then the later ones were cheaper to replace because they had a different design.
2014 Malibu 2LT, 2015 Cruze 2LT,
It is completely opposite, though, of doing clutch drops from redline, as you also say he does.
He's 16 and has gone through two clutches? And thinks he knows what double-clutching is? Sounds like you need to get a father figure involved.
It's pretty hard to burn out a clutch in a couple of days. You'd have to be a real klutz. You'd have to really WANT to destroy a clutch.
Sounds to me like this clutch was ready to fall off a cliff and you just breathed on it.
I don't want to rebuild what was not a good experience in the first place and I'd like to look into putting in something such as a Toyato engine. Does anyone have any thoughts on tis?
Thanks
When i use the gas pump at the gas station, the "gas gun" repeatedly recoils as if the tank were full and it's irritating because each time i pump about half a gallon or so and it goes "clank." I know for a fact that the gas tank was not even close to full, since i only had about 1/5 of a tank, and it still recoils every half gallon or so until it is full for sure.
it seems to me that something in the car is registering the quantity of gas incorrectly OR is it a coincidence that the gas station's pumps are not working right, which i doubt. (i've only visited the gas station twice, because i just got the car)
my problem is: what the heck is going on? the probelm seems to be my car itself, but i can't tell what the problem is and if it's serious and what can be done to fix that.
Otherwise it's something to do with your gas tank venting system, and whether that's curable or not I don't know. It would be great if you could ask the owners of identical cars what they are experiencing. We don't have a 200SX forum unfortunately.
Shifty the Host
Also, we've got a miss or hesitation that started about 3 months ago. We seem to
think it is more frequent when lights and electronics are turned on. The computer
says that it is the Mass Airflow sensor is having problems. We've changed out that
part with a used one. Is this a misdiagnosis, could the problem be alternator related.
this weekend, I had a quick but long trip and I put reg. gas in the tank. immediately, the engince began hesitating and now the 'service engine soon' light has come on and begun flashing occasionally.
could switching to the cheap stuff have been the sole cause of this reaction?
FYI: I am 40 yrs old- male , I drove 2 Corvette for 15 yeers and no way I was pressing on the accelerator. My foot was on the brake only as the engine continued toaccelerate. I slways thought most uncontrolled rapid accelarations were people getting the brake and accelerator pedals mixed up. Now I am not sure.
Sounds like a stuck throttle linkage or throttle plate or some such..only other hting I can think of is a weird cruise control.
You need to write to DC write away and tell them what happened just like you wrote it here. They will definitely red flag a complaint like this. It would be great if a factory rep from the Zone Office or District Office could come out to your dealer and look this car over carefully. In fact I'd insist that this be arranged.
When GM upgraded to the series 2 (205HP/230TQ) in the mid 90's, what was the real reason behind them basically sitting on that "hand" (thinking of poker)? At the time, those were darn good numbers and while there isn't anything wrong with the engine (I own a 98 Regal GS), it seems odd the world's largest mfr of cars would not upgrade their bread and butter engine for a decade in a marketplace that is showing it can eat them alive.
Is this just a symptom of GM's "disease", where they let their product get old (as well as the stuff that goes in their product) or did they never intend to upgrade the series 2 - in a power way, anyway. There is more to a car purchase than just power, but when Honda and Toyota can tout 225-240-280 HP engines I would think it makes it hard to brag about your 195-200-205 HP offerings.
I know the Series 3 has been out a couple of years, but weren't its mods more about emissions control and reworking the area of noise, vibration, and harshness? I've also read the uptick in HP in the Grand Prix was due solely to the supercharger, not the base engine.
I can't build and tear apart an engine by any means, but can see the mistakes GM is making and wondered if the 3800 V-6 is a victim of their behind the times mindset or what.
Thanks