Got a Quick, Technical Question?

leaf

In my owner's manual, there is no place that mentioned engine air filter. Is there one? And do I suppose to change it? And at what interval?

I have looked at the intake, but couldn't identify the filter.

Mr_Shiftright

It'll get worse fast. The hot exhaust rushing past the crack is like a little acetylene cutter--but aside from the stink and possible fumes entering the cabin and killing you, no harm done.

If it's the intake manifold, that is definitely harmful to the engine.

daddog

my 88 escort 1.9 liter with C.F.I fuel idles and accelerates normally, but bucks and coughs at partial throttle when just trying to maintain steady speed. I did the v.o.m. test of the throttle position indicator and it read within normal voltages. could the single injector be ok at idle and at wide open, but faulty at partial (cruise) position? thanks for any clues, i have the chilton's if you want to reference it. john

stanc1

How do I stop the threaded part from turning when trying to remove the nuts on the front stabilizer links?

qbrozen

there's definitely an air filter. find the big black box with a big black tube running from it into the intake. Inside that big black box is the filter.

But, seeing as how its an '05, no, there is no need to change it yet. (unless you have a habit of driving off road behind a tractor that is kicking up a big cloud of dirt.)

doppler

I was on helminc.com looking at the different manuals for my car, but saw the following:

1997-98 Crv Shop Manual
1997-99 CR-V All Model Shop Manual
1997-2001 CR-V Service Manual

What's the difference between them?

inetquestion

Specs: 1998, 4.0, SOHC, and a really frustrated driver!

Is there any way to get this plug wire off without ripping it out. I can touch it, but do not have the leverage needed to remove the stuck boot. It doesn't appear that there is anything capable of being removed that will allow great access. I'm assuming there must be a tool I'm missing or just some good ole tricks of the trade.

TIA,

-Inet

stickguy

there are (or have been, a '75 Monza V8 comes to mind) that actually required moving the engine to get at some plugs. Not taking it out, but at least jacking it up off the mounts a bit.

Some transverse V6s also required rocking the engine forward.

Beyond those extremes, it often helps to have a lift (for underneath access), and even better, the customized tool designed for the application.

When it gets this ugly, I just pay to have a pro do it.

gchecksfield

Have a 2000 Grand Am, 62K, 2.4 that hesitates or stumbles just a bit when going up hill at highway speed. I have AC Delco spark plugs with about 25K miles on them in the car. I just replaced one coil pack with an OEM part to correct a check engine light w/bad misfiring condition. Also changed the spark plug boots (car does not have plug wires) and the white plastic part that holds the coil packs and ECM with non OEM parts as part of that process. I suspected the stumbling might be fuel related. Perhaps this car has a history of fuel pump, pressure regulator, or similar problems. But, I was advised to replace the boots with OEM boots and to put new plugs in. Before doing that I would like to have some confidence that this is going to correct the problem. Any help I can get, thanks.

alcan

there are (or have been, a '75 Monza V8 comes to mind) that actually required moving the engine to get at some plugs. Not taking it out, but at least jacking it up off the mounts a bit.

Yep, #3. The steering shaft was in the way, lots of 7 cyl tune-ups on them. GM paid extra to R&R #3 plug until Snap-on released a slightly shorter plug socket with a hex, then cut the time.

rooferrob

please help
1998 ford taurus 3.0 dohc
symptom; car will start fine and run for a while just fine(sometimes for an hour or two) and may stall at any given time without warning. after sitting for a while car will start and run again until it repeats this whole pattern again
new parts since this started;fuel pump,cooling temp sensor
if you have any ideas of what this or may be please let me know.
p.s. fuel pressure is good at pressure release valve

driftracer

and PCM continuity - you may have a PCM that's going out and would cause the same symptoms.

lindajo

I replaced the fuse for my 98,S70 radio and "code" was displayed. I don't know the code but I just hit a few #s and now "off" is displayed. What do I do now? The radio isn't working. Thanks.

Mr_Shiftright

I think that the radio thinks you are a thief and has gone to sleep. It might have treated your random inputs as an attempt to defeat the code process. You will have to go to the dealer and give them your VIN and beg for the code, is my best guess. There are little devices that you can attach to your battery that keep this from happening when you disconnect power to various coded or programmed displays in your car.

chadm1

1994 grand am when i get up to 55-60 front end shakes back and forth very fast. what could be the problem. replaced bearings, ball joints tierods, and tires. got any ideas. thanks.

Mr_Shiftright

wheel balance or out of round tires (doesn't matter if they are new) or a bent wheel. Try switching tires and rims front to back and see what happens. Remote possibility is something dangerously wrong with control arm bushings--I say remotely because that would usually manifest itself at lower speeds than 60 mph.

bridges1

My 1999 Regal has developed a problem with the engine shutting down (dead)at highway speed with no apparent cause. It has restarted each time but it is a serous problem when traveling the freeway. The service techs have no clue. Any comments would be welcome.

qbrozen

once you hit a predetermined number of failed code entries (i believe its 3), it will not allow you to enter a new code UNTIL after you keep the car on (with OFF displayed on the radio) for, IIRC, an hour to 90 minutes. So, in other words, you can either leave the key on and go watch a movie (but this won't be good for the battery), or you can do a bit of driving with no tunes. And, yes, as Shifty said, go to the dealer to get the code. A nice one will just give it to you.

cornellpinoy

Does this have the 3800 V6? You may want to check the crankshaft position sensor and electronic ignition module. These were bad on our Olds that had a random stailling problem.

ddecker5

I was looking at Tirerack.com for tires. There were some brands that I've never heard of. Are these tires ok to use, or is it best to stick with someone like Goodyear?

Mr_Shiftright

We got da man right here from Tire Rack. Try posting your interesting question in this forum:

Ask Connor from Tire Rack

thank you

Host

bigdog4

I have a 1996 Ford E150 van with a 5.8 V8 with a steel mid ship large capacity fuel tank (approx. 36 gal). I would like to change the fuel filter which is on the frame rail in front of the tank. How do I disconnect the lines from the filter?

crankshaft

i believe yours is held together with spring lock couplers.go to your auto parts store,they should stock the coupling separators.there is a spring inside those couplings which hold the fitting together.the tools come in different sizes to match the size of the fuel line.the tool spreads the spring releasing the tension so that the coupling can be pulled apart.also ,before you start,relieve the residual pressure in the fuel system or you will be sprayed vigarously with gas.

kandmj

I have a 96 Nissan Quest Van. It came with a built in security system. The remote to the alarm is on a set of keys that my son lost. My little girl went to get something out of the van and was playing with the lock switch and set the alarm. Now the engine will not turn over at all. I had to disconnect the battery for the alarm to stop. do you have any idea how to fix this problem?

alcan

Yes. Remove the cargo net if equipped, peel the rear trim forward, undo the 3 plastic nuts, then pull the tail light housing rearward. Do yourself a favour, replace all of 'em while you're in there.

Mr_Shiftright

Ah, the voice of experience that knows that the next one will burn out 3 days after you replace the first one!

dkitsap

Our Tempo's automatic shoulder harness does not work, it's locked forward. I know on Escorts there was an switch in the door that controlled the shoulder harness. I looked all over the door and the frame and I can not find the switch on this Tempo.

Anyone have any suggestions or know where this swich is?

alcan

Shortly after I bought my Riviera a rear bulb burned out. Requires removal of the entire full-width tail light housing, and a bit of a PITA. Three days later, another bulb went. *&^^%%$!! Replaced them all the second time around. Should have known better.

kmack

'01 Ford Explorer Sport (2wd), Clutch and slave cyl. replaced approx. 20k miles ago. Last week, won't go into gear if started in nuetral. Can start in gear, but can't get out of gear. No pressure in the pedal. Pulled tranny, clutch/pressure plate in good shape, no abnormal signs of wear. Have replaced slave and master cyl with new. Still no pressure in pedal. Bled system 4 times with a pressure bleeder. Throwout bearing moves about a 1/4" now. Still not enough to disengage clutch. With 10 lbs of pressure from bleeder, system works better, but not on its own.
I'm at a loss with no other ideas. Can't afford to take it to a dealer or tranny shop, but must have the vehicle running by end of this week. Any ideas? Anybody experience this before?

Mr_Shiftright

Tell you what...get some plugs and disconnect the line from the clutch MASTER. Insert the plugs or plug and bleed the master cylinder by loosening the plugs only. This will tell you if your new clutch master is retaining pressure. It should remain rock hard with those plugs in there.

If the clutch master is determined to be functioning, then you have a bad new clutch slave or the wrong one or your clutch fork has a crack in it and is flexing instead of throwing out all the way.

I once took four new slaves out of the box to get one to work. It happens.

kmack

Ford trucks don't use a clutch fork, it's an internal slave that rides on the input shaft. No bending there. But it's definitely a pain to change the slave cyl. As far as the plugs you mention, the main line coming from the master to the slave cyl. has a quick-disconnect in it for easier removal of the transmission. How can I plug the line? There is no bleed nipple available on the master cyl. to bleed it seprately. Thanks for the ideas. Keep them coming, I'm running short on time...

Kirstie_H

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kirstie_h

Mr_Shiftright

Oh, a slave cylinder like Saab uses! That could explain everything. I hate those things.

Anyway, if you plug the slave master, then you just pump it up and use the plug itself as the bleed screw. The plug screws into the slave master, it's not to plug the line itself.

Have you tried a gravity bleed?

erlinda

Hi,

I'm working with my son on his '91 Eclipse, 1.8L, manual trans, non-turbo. The darn thing just won't start. He has replaced the TPS, the ECM (it was bad), plugs, wires, throttle control relay (it tested bad), the battery, and tested many more components than have been replaced, including the IATC. The engine cranks but won't start. The distributor is putting out just over 12 volts. The fuel pump is putting fuel to the injector rails, the injectors have been cleaned and checked. The #3 plug is not sparking as strongly as the others, could this be a distributor problem? This is my son's dream car, it's becoming a nightmare. please help!

kmack

I tried a gravity bleed first and got nothing. I had hoped the pressure bleed would do the trick.

I'm still not sure I can plug the line off the master cyl. The main line to the slave uses an O-ring and is held in place using a rollpin. No threads to screw a plug into. If I had acces to my Dad's lathe, I could make a plug to fit, but that won't happen quickly.

I'm going to try and bleed it some more tonight and see what happens. I talked to 2 different Ford Service Dept's today and they both said the same thing...keep bleeding the system. Or "bring it in and we'll take a look at it." Yeah...right.

I hate the idea of buying all new parts, again. Especially the slave cyl. It took me over 6 hours to change it. And I've done this before on 3 other Explorers! I've never had a problem like this before.

kmack

Did you replace the plugs before you noticed that it wouldn't start? If so, you may have switched the order of the plugs. Just a thought.

erlinda

It's been running since he replaced the plugs & wires. He drove it home from a friend's house and the next morning, nada, no start. I heard him and Dad discussing the firing order so I know that they have that down. Thanks though!

Mr_Shiftright

He'd really have to test if the injectors are getting a pulse, right?

0patience

Crankshaft is correct.
Fuel filter tool.

Be careful, you can damage the clips inside the fuel line. If the clip is damaged, then NAPA carries replacement clips that go inside the coupler.

racassar

What could be causing the RPM to increae drastically to over 3k when engagin the clutch to upshift? RPM used to drop to <=1k previously. Am I looking at a major repair expense? Car has almost 132k miles on it. I am the original owner.

driftracer

shifting, and you re-engage the clutch after shifting into another gear, the engine goes to 3k rpm? Sounds like your clutch is slipping and needs replacement.

Don't get horn-swaggled into thinking that this is a $1200 job....a clutch kit (clutch disc, pressure plate, and throwout bearing can easily be had for under $200 (stock replacement), a performance unit can be obtained for $309...

www.spswebpage.com

Labor is probably less than 4 hours, so figure another $250-280 or so, plus machining the flywheel.

erlinda

He used a voltage meter to test the injectors. The injectors tested within the range in the Haynes book he has. Also, we had the car in to the dealership for trouble shooting, they also tested the injectors and cleaned them (or at least they charged him for cleaning them). The dealership determined that the injectors were functioning correctly and fuel was getting to them.

Could the problem be:
1. Distributor (which tested ok)
2. O2 Sensor (unfortunately a 3 wire -hard to get)
3. Ignition??????

My intuition is telling me it's something to do with timing, but the guys at my house have poo-poo'd my notion. Thanks for the help!

qbrozen

have they tested compression?

so you are saying fuel and spark are confirmed, but no signs of life. If compression also checks out, it almost has to be timing. Even if a sensor was bad, you would at least get SOME sign of life if spark is being put to compressed air/fuel.

erlinda

They have not tested compression.

fuel & spark have been verified. What is worrisome about the spark is the #3 spark plug doesn't seem to be sparking as strongly as the others. It seemed to be a bad plug, which they replaced as well as that particular plug wire.

When cranked, it sounds as though it will start, but it just doesn't fire up and run. I'll pass on compression test.

Mr_Shiftright

If you have compression and spark, then you'd better check the timing, yes. Also, throw in a fresh set of spark plugs and then try.

stickguy

maybe something is amiss and it's flooding (that the right term for FI)? I used to have an Opel with FI (must have left a window open, a chill just went down my spine...). Anyway, at one point, a sensor (not sure which one) went bad. It would crank fine, at least until the battery died, but wouldn't fire, and the plugs would be all fouled out.

erlinda

I checked at lunch, He's got compression and spark. He and Dad did a hand rotation on the distributor to see if it would fire that way, no luck. I guess it's time to have a look at the timing belt. He's been resisting my urging to have a look at it, I'm guessing it's a pain to get to. LOL poor kid, he's the only one of all his buddies that gets automotive input from his mom.

Mr_Shiftright

I'd still throw in a set of fresh plugs first.

erlinda

OK!

racassar

Nope, let me clarify...when I take the car out of gear to upshift, the rpm goes over 3K. Esssentially when it's out of gear. When I shift and put it back into gear the rpm drops to a normal level.

Also, interesting thing happens when I tap the break peddle when it's out of gear...the rpm drops to essentially idle speed.

Had the clutch done around 100k.

Thanks.