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First look at the simple stuff. See if a floor mat is bunched up around, under, etc the accelerator pedal. You would be surprised how many 'unintended acclerations' this causes.(It's happend to me!) Look where the linkage goes through the firewill, maybe a rubber grommet is displaced (clutch job?).
Then check the cable linkage under the hood. Just have to look for anything that looks like it is binding up. The 'clutch job' could have something to do with this. The clutch linkage, wrenching from the top of the motor, etc might have messed with the accelerator linkage. Look at the return springs, clips, mounting brackets, etc. And, yes, look at the cruise control linkages that are part of the throttle linkage.
Then open up the main throttle butterfly valve. This is where the air, after it goes through the air filter and then a large plastic 'tube', goes into the 'motor'. It may be 'sludged up' and is physically sticking in the throttle body. You may need to get the old toothbrush out, carb cleaner, hold the butterfly open and scrub down both sides of the valve and especailly the area where it closes down in the throttle body. Gummy deposits may be in there and are jamming it up enough that it will not close down.
Cars with manual transmission years ago had a silnoid (sp) that held the throttle open for a few moments when the throttle closed. This was for pollution control. I don't thing a modern fuel injected motor would have one of these, but look on the linkage for something like this that might have failed.
If this doesn't turn up anything, I think I would take it to a Saturn dealership. I would not want to drive a car that held 3,000 rpm for very long. Could be a real danger driving it.
Pictures or very detailed descriptions would help because I am a neophyte car guy, and I don't know very much (I know, you wondering why I'm working on a car then. Simple: No money). Any possible advice would be very much appreciated. Thanks
-Brandon
What is the fuel pressure, I need to check mine
Injectors or injector lines are always suspicious. Fuel filter is not a major suspect, but you never know.
But CHECK IT OUT as soon as you can.
Mustangpoppy
2014 Malibu 2LT, 2015 Cruze 2LT,
I think you are cutting costs on a job that isn't very expensive to do correctly, especially since the brakes are so important.
Also you can't tell about the rotors from just looking at them, they need to be measured.
First, let's look at your problem.......
You replaced one side. Why?
Were you replacing one side at a time and got stopped by the problem you are having?
It sounds like the caliper is hanging up. How many miles are on this vehicle?
Here is a good article on replacing the front brakes.
This is how the front brakes should be done, assuming that the calipers are in good shape.
Generally, when one side wears faster than the other side, it is a pretty good indication that the caliper is hanging up.
Low idle (around 200 RPM) and I have to maintain pressure on the gas pedal during start up and for the first 2-3 minutes of driving (out of my residential parking lot) to keep the car from stalling. Additionally, the battery meter dips 5-7 volts when I turn on different accessories in the car and the interior and exterior lights dim.
I have replaced the fuel pump and filter twice in the last 2 years and have my doubts about the one currently installed.
The air conditioning system is weak at best and I have to constantly clean the radiator to wash away the accumulation of volcanic ash that enters the car on a daily basis (I love active volcanoes 20 miles from my house).
Most recently I came up 3 quarts low on oil prior to a trip to Palermo with my family. I have a scheduled trip to the dealership (no Jiffy Lube shops here) to investigate this problem and the others listed here.
Any suggestions? Thanks in advance. Fly Navy!
I know next to nothing about car repairs - does this sound legit?
Patching axles with a boot kit doesn't help, although it's cheap, it's a band-aid - there's now grime and grit in the axle swivels (ball bearings in a moving holder) and the damage is already done when the grease (formerly inside the boot) gets thrown out.
Always replace, no band aids. Cheap insurance and peace of mind on a very important part of your car.
You might also try a very strong fuel injector cleaner if you can find any.
The AC system will not perform well if the condenser is all clogged up. You might check to see that you have a proper freon level, and if you do, and if the condenser is clean, you could inspect the expansion valve for debris...sometimes material from the AC dryer clogs up the expansion valve and you'll get a kind of hot/cold/hot symptom. Sicily is REALLY hot, so your AC system has to be tip-top or it can't cope.
As for low oil, it's either burning or leaking, there is no other explanation. So if you can't find any leaks, you can just chalk it up to a LOT of miles on that engine.
Thank you for your response. I will be going in this week to talk to the one guy at the Jeep Dealership in Catania that speaks English. I will get some feedback to you when they investigate the car and we get some answers. Looking forward to going in there armed with some good knowledge and tips thanks to you. I appreciate the help. Wish me luck.
You might use our "search" features on the left of this page and type in the keyword Voyager and talk to other owners of vans like yours.
MrShiftright
Host
But, probably not an issue for awhile, since there shouldn't be too many more snowdrifts (hopefully).
2020 Acura RDX tech SH-AWD, 2023 Maverick hybrid Lariat luxury package.
I've seen a rash of 1999-2002 Blazers, Jimmys and S-10 4x4s with the problem that starts off as no heat, but then the owner gets a smell, and a greasy substance in the vents and controls.
It's pretty ugly - the transfer case switch vacuum line and HVAC vacuum line block-off points fail, and the vacuum sucks gear lube out of the transfer case, putting it into the HVAC controls, shorting the head unit, and screwing up the blend doors...
The dealerships are having to replace the 4x4 actuator, HVAC head, all of the lines, and do a LOT of cleaning...
Thanks
Tim
Okay, I don't know much about vehicles, though I am striving to learn the business ;0) Can anyone recommend brake pads. I had an auto place to put some new brakes on my 2001 Suzuki Esteem, and seems as though they placed the cheapest pads on there, that you could purchase. My brakes are squeaking really loud. They tried saying that it was dust on the brakes, but the brakes are too new!! Please advise.
Thanks!! ;0)
LOL
Don't get me wrong, I think this a great way for people to get info. I also think it great that people spend time helping others when they don't have to. Thanks
For your information, my car has a Manual Transmission.
I seemingly have a mechanical problem with my car. Sometimes, the engine stutters after ignition until I apply gas. In another case, my engine all of a sudden stuttered really "heavily" after i engaged the clutch at first gear at a stop light, acting as if it were about to stall. The serveice engine light turned on suddenly. A few minutes later, I would clutch in at a stop light and accidentally release the clutch too early at a green light and naturally, i would re-ignite the engine, BUT succeeding only after more than 10 times. Basically, to me, I think the engine feels weaker than it should normally be as if it were going to croak, but I'm not sure what the cause is.
I've also noticed the stutter when I change gears when i'm in motion.
Also, it's been an ongoing thing where my car runs at a higher than normal rpm (it runs at 2000 rpm when i engage the clutch for a stop, as opposed to the rpm dropping to approximately 900 rpm like it normally should at a stop. A few seconds later, it would drop down to about 1,200 and then go up and down from 1,200 to 1,300 with irregularity, which is still abnormal compared to what cars should do). This even occurs after ignition, where the car would run at an irregular rpm.
If this is a sign of clutch wear, i would change my clutch, but if it is something else more severe, then i would've wasted money on clutch replacement. However, clutch wear is doubtful since the clutch adjusts itself until it is just totally worn-out.
The point is, I don't know what the problem is.
i have a 93 tarus gl recently the airg bag warning light on the instrument panel has been coming on and off, but today it started flashing in a sequence of five flashes than a 12sec pause than 5 flashes than a 12 sec pause, is this sometihng i should be worried aobut?, is my airbag gogin to deploy on me while i am driving?
please respnd so i know what to do
Thanks
Filling Procedure (2.4L)
Close the radiator drain cock.
Install the engine block drain plugs, if removed.
Fill the cooling system through the surge tank.
Install the cap.
Start the engine. Run the engine until the upper radiator hose is hot.
Stop the engine. Observe the coolant level. Fill the tank to the Full line, if necessary
could not retrieve workstation directory from weldwin.ini
i checked the weldwin.ini file and it's there but i don't know how to fix it to get rid of the error. i tried to reinstall but the installation floppy's bad. i tried the www.dei.com website but couldn't find anything to help me. anyone know how to get rid of this error? otherwise can anyone give me the floppy? it's disk 1 of 2 labelled as "techsoft cd installation diskette" and has the numbers: CIS# WEDID12 and 991222001. copyright 1999 mitchell repair information company. thanks for any help
I still have no idea why the power Windows stop working. It always happens at the same time engine won't start, power Windows don't work.
In the past it started working again after a switch some relays but now nothing. Any ideas?
Thanks
Control Assembly Replacement
Remove the LH lower instrument panel (IP) insulator retainers from the steering column opening filler panel.
Disconnect the courtesy lamp from the instrument panel insulator by turning 1/4 turn counterclockwise.
Remove the LH IP insulator from the stud at the accelerator pedal.
Remove the LH IP insulator.
Remove the bolts from the bottom of the steering column opening panel.
Pull the steering column opening panel rearward and upward unsnapping from the IP.
Disconnect the electrical connector from the driver information center (DIC), if equipped.
Remove the steering column opening panel.
Remove the screws from the bottom of the instrument panel (IP) accessory trim plate.
Pull the IP accessory trim plate rearward in order to release the retaining clips.
Rotate the IP accessory trim plate rearward and up in to release the 2 tabs at the top edge.
Disconnect the ash tray harness electrical connector from the IP harness.
Remove the IP accessory trim plate from the instrument panel.
Remove the front floor console if equipped. Refer to Console Replacement - Front Floor in Instrument Panel, Gauges and Console.
Remove the retaining bolts from the HVAC control assembly.
Pull the control assembly out from the instrument panel.
Disconnect the electrical connectors and the vacuum harness if equipped from the HVAC control assembly.
Remove the HVAC control assembly.
I have a problem with starting a 95 4 runner..
I changed the engine from a 1990 engine to a 1995 engine by taking everthing from the 95 engine to the 90 engine. Everything matched up except for the wire coming out from around the injectors. The wire coming from the 90 model had a single wire with a ground wire wrapped around it (like a coax). I cut the plug off of the 95 and plugged it into the 95 loom, then cut the plug off of the 90 and plugged it into the wire coming out of the manifold. Stripped the wire on the ends and wired the two together.
After doing all this the engine run excellent, except the engine light was on. I was trying to get the engine light to go off so I went back to those wires and switched some of them because I was thinking they were the ground wires and figuring that it was the cause of the engine light to stay on. After doing this the car still runs fine but the engine light is still on. So then I took the battery cables off and touched them together(advice from someone else to get the engine light to go off). I can now get the engine to start but will not stay running.
A mechanic suggested that it may be the security system. I am not sure wether this is a factory or add on system. He told me to lock the car up and come back later. I did this and went back to start it and it still is doing the same thing.
Is there a way to disable the security system to get it running again or could it be something else. I am stumped here....
PLEASE HELP ME..... WOULD APPRECIATE ANY ADVICE OR COMMENTS ON THIS PROBLEM