Got a Quick, Technical Question?

corync

I have a 2003 Dodge Stratus ES 4cyl that hesitates when I try to accelerate in the 50-60mph range. It bucks a little but continues to accelerate and the RMPs do not go down at all. Does anyone have any idea what could cause this or how much it might be to fix it because now I am at 36,8000 miles and of course off the warrentee?

Mr_Shiftright

no engine light, no codes?

If not, you might try dosing with some very strong fuel injection cleaner....hmmm...what else....hard to know it could be so many things....you might run the engine at night and lift the hood and see if you see any sparks leaking off the plug wires...a long shot...

irishalchemist

Hi folks,

It's been a while since I visit the forums - Nice new look! I have a bit of a puzzler with the cooling system on my wife's car. It's a Mazda 626, L4 (2.0L(), ATX, with A/C. Here's what's going on:

A while back I noticed the radiator fan would come on and stay on. The car never over heated (the needle stayed always were it's usually at, a hair before the 1/2 mark), but the fan would go on and on forever. I know that when this thing operated properly it came on an off, particularly in stop-and-go driving.

After poking around I noticed that I was a bit low on coolant, and that the plastic tank on the radiator, driver's side, was leaking. So at first I thought I had found the problem, as low coolant would reduce the cooling capacity. Changed the radiator, flushed the system, installed new hoses, burped it, etc., etc. 10 miles down the road, the fan comes on, and stays on. Again, no overheating, but once the fan comes on it stays on. A good thing was that after the radiator change I have no loss of coolant, so I don't think I have a blown head gasket (no steam coming of the tail pipe either...).

My feeling is that the thermostat may be starting to get stuck, and that for now the radiator fan is cooling whatever coolant is getting to the radiator enough so that it can keep the engine cool. As far as temperature sensors, I don't think this is the problem, as it has only one and the signal coming from it goes to the computer which decides when to turn the fans on and off. My other idea is that one of the three (!) relays that operate this 2-speed fan is sticking on the 'closed' position once it engages, and it never disengages.

Any better ideas? Mine are not that great, so any idea is probably better than the ones I have! Thanks in advance,

Guillermo

bolivar

Without service manual and/or electric circuit diagrams, things like this are tough.

If you want to try something - start swapping the 3 relays around. (Number them if you want to return to the same place.) If the symptom changes, I would think one of them is bad.

Now which one might it be.....

irishalchemist

Thanks for the post. Yeah, a friend of mine suggested I play musical chairs with the relays too. However, there's no current rating, electrical characteristics, nada, writen on the relays (only that two of the pins say 'coil'), so that kind of guesswork may end up pooching an otherwise good relay.

By the way, I do have shop manuals, I do know how the relays are connected, what they are supposed to do, and which one is which on the relay box (one gives +Vbat to the low speed side of the fan motor. The other two are in a more weird arrangement: One gives +Vbat to the high speed windings of the motor and the other grounds those windings. All relays are controlled by two signals from the PCM).

I haven't checked the realys out of the car yet (too darn cold here in Philly), but I'll try that this afternoon. Also, the 'self-test' of the PCM (which is actually Ford, not Mazda) has a routine for the fans/fan relays, so I'll try that next.

Guillermo

Mr_Shiftright

The fan works off a couple of coolant sensors, one of which (the high end one)could be malfunctioning. But a sticky relay does sound very likely.

imidazol97

Many of the relays may have the same part number. So they can easily be interchanged to check without fear of putting in one wired differently. My car has 6 relays in a row under the hood that are all the same part. Makes troubleshooting nice. (Buick LeSabre-and it takes a thin knife edge under the relay to raise a snap-in locking clip to pull the relay out forward from the holder.) $7 relay went bad; found it myself by switching. Probably a $100 job at the dealer.

Good luck.

irishalchemist

Shifty, at first I also thought I had two sensors for temperature, one for the fans and one for the gauge on the dashboard (computer) like in the good old days. But there's only one. The computer uses the signal from the ECT (engine coolant temperature sensor, the name of this little gremlin) to, among a myriad of things, send a signal to the relays (i.e., it grounds them) when the fan(s) need to come on.

As imidazol says, two of the three relays have the same markings, so I'll check swapping those. However, these are relays '2' and '3', so they take care of the high speed operation. If the problem is with low speed operation I will have to bite the bullet and buy a relay from the dealer (if you ask for these things in AP stores they look at you like if you have two heads...).

I'll keep you guys posted, but keep the suggestions coming in the mean time...

G.

imidazol97

If you have a wiring diagram for that circuit, you can always take the relay out and check for continuity where it should be and no shorts where continuity shouldn't exist. Then you can use a patch wire with a fuse and connect to battery power on the electromagnet side of the relay and see if it opens and closes properly on the high current side.

I just went through this for auto level control when it quit working. Never realized how intricate the system is but all basic parts. Just hard to get to (can you say upside down on seat under dash to find relay and connect contacts carefully to see if air pump turns on). But I found a broken wire in circuit at back.

Before throwing money at parts you're not sure are at fault, try to diagnose and verify bad part. Otherwise it can get expensive.

Mr_Shiftright

Oh I was thinking of some car systems where there are two sensors, one that triggers the highest temp for fan to turn on, say 190 degrees and another to kill the fan when a safe temp is reached, say 160. I guess you stop opening the hood on cars for 6 months and you're out of it.

I'm not sure how one sensor can do both things for the computer...it must send a range of values then, rather than just ground at a certain temperature.

Yeah, if you were the automaker, you wouldn't want to spend the $4 for TWO sensors on a brand new car now would you? K.I.S.S.

suvshopper4

You might try changing the air filter, if that hasn't been done recently.

I had that bucking-under-acceleration situation once, and that was the fix. Apparently the engine wasn't able to draw in enough air.

Hope this helps.

-ss4

geargrinder3

My grandson has a '95 Geo. It has just recently refused to accelerate when he steps on the throttle. The engine just sits there idleing. He was told by a mechanic that he needs a new catalytic converter (for $600). I'm thinking maybe a clogged air filter, but wonder if anyone out there has had a similar problem. I'm not at all familiar with Geos.

atled

Hello,

I have a 1993 toyota pickup, I want to put a chevy small block engine in my 93 toyota pickup, my questions is do I have to change my transmission if I put a chevy small block into it?.

I could also use any info about putting a chevy small block into a 1993 toyota pickup.

Thank you.

driftracer

makes a kit for a V-8 conversion for your Toyota - you can't use the stock transmission...(1) it won't bolt up...and (2) it won't take the torque of even a mild stock V-8. Advanced offers kits to drop the Chevy engine and transmission into the truck - you can have a Chevy rearend narrowed at a machine shop to fit your truck, and have a driveshaft made, and it's bulletproof.

driftracer

www.jegs.com offers universal replacement cats starting at $59.00...just get the type with or without AIR tubes, whichever yours takes - it's probably due for one, no matter what, and geting the part and having it installed would be around $100. Start there, and good luck.

andyman73

I second what Drift said. My own personal experience, I had to get a cat replaced on a 94 Civic, had it done at Meineke. I had a performance cat back exhuast put on at the same time. Total cost for all was just under 400. That quote for 600. is way too much. This was just this past summer, so price is recent.

mn_pat

I got the diagnosis from the mechanic....

It was the fuel pressure regulator. So, $354 later I can rest easy that my wife wont be stranded somewhere with the kids.

The van has 54K on it this is the 2nd repair I've had done, both have been on the fuel system. I had a fuel injector replace under warranty and now the fuel pressure regulator.

Thanks for all the help- Pat

Mr_Shiftright

Your mechanic had better put in a by-pass pipe to make sure his diagnosis is correct. He could be right but if he doesn't test it, he doesn't really know.

Toyota pickup: A Chevy V8 will tear up your stock transmission the first time you romp on it, since your trans was built for less than 50% of the available HP from a Chevy small block.

Why do you want to do this exactly? The thing will be a brute and you may not like it as much as you think you will.

Perhaps you could turbocharge or SC for the same amount of money and a lot less work.

irishalchemist

Shifty,

As you say, the sensor is a thermistor that gives a resistance inversly proportional to the temperature. So, by passing a constant current through it, the computer can get a voltage reading that it can interpret as temperature. So, when the resistance on the sensor drops (higher temperatures), the voltage drops, and the computer grounds the fan relay (and does 1000 other things that it does not want you to know about...). Then, when the coolant gets colder, the resistance on the sensor rises, the voltage rises, and the computer shuts of the fan (actually, lets the relay coil float back to +Vbat).

I had a sticker on my lab that said: "A person will err now and then, but you really need a computer to 'foul' things up." ('foul' was actually a stronger f-word). It does apply here, doesn't it?

Cheers,

Guillermo

qbrozen

wait a second. he steps on the throttle and NOTHING happens? It doesn't do anything but sit there idling? That doesn't sound like a cat problem to me. I mean, it should do SOMETHING if you are stepping on the throttle. Pop the hood and watch as he steps on throttle to see if the throttle cable is actually moving.

Mr_Shiftright

That's what I was thinking, and why a by pass pipe should be tried first. A plugged cat will make a car run like a dog but it will run.

7937

Some resistance values for typical Engine Coolant Temperature sensors. Measured with a digital volt/ohm meter.

°F Ohms
212 177
194 241
176 332
158 467
140 667
122 937
113 1188
104 1459
95 1802
50 5670
32 9420

Those are enough to see if the sensor is in the right range. To test the sensor, remove it from the engine and place it in a pot of water with a test meter switched to ohms connected to its terminals. Fill the pot with ice. Compare the resistence reading at zero °F as measured with a thermometer. Remove ice and heat pot up to boiling point while tracking temperature and resistence.

7937

Sorry, I edited that to spread the readings apart but my edited version didn't appear.

rugger_blue

My tahoe's service engine soon light just came on. I have approx. 80k miles on it. Is this a pre-programmed light? Is there a way I can fix it without paying the dealer millions of dollars? Please advise.

imidazol97

If it's a steady orange light, it's probably a pollution control problem.

First on the list is check the gas cap. The system pressurizes or pulls a vacuum on itself and checks to see how long it takes to lose that pressure. A loose gas cap not clicked 3 times or with a poor rubber ring seal around it may not be sealing the tank.

Put a little vaseline on it if the rubber ring doesn't seem to seal. Drive the car a short trip to barely start warmup on the gauge. STop for a few minutes. Restart, and it will probably do the pressure test. The light may go off.

corync

So I took it to the dealer and they said that my spark plugs and wires needed to be replaced. They replaced all four plugs and wires with platinum tipped plugs and sent me on my way and now the car is running fine (no hesitation).

My question now is how much should this have cost because all together they charged me $190.00, the majority of which is labor even though they had my care for all of an hour and a half (in which time they did an oil change and tire rotation as well , which was an additional $35.00). I asked if this would have been covered under the 36,000 mile warrantee and they said no, because it is considered wear and tear. So I am also wondering how long spark plugs and wires are supposed to last because my maintenance log doesn't say anything about checking the plugs until 60,000 miles? Is there any kind of recourse against Dodge for these parts?

Thank you for your help.

Mr_Shiftright

Seems fair enough for a dealer operation, especially since it fixed the problem. Actually I'd kill for a bill that small on my car.

kkollwitz

The cruise control stopped working at the same time the left & right rear brakelights quit (replaced bulbs to no avail), but the center high brakelight works fine. Since the cruise is turned off by applying the brakes, I thought the two issues might be related, and wonder what the fix might be, especially considering the chmsl is fine.

Mr_Shiftright

Okay, there must be a switch off the brake pedal or the fuse that controls that circuit.

bolivar

The brake light switch on the brake pedal is probably broken.

That's the way my 94 Ranger works. Cruise watches for the brake signal to dis-engage the cruise. And, of course, the brake lights are out.

I've replaced 3 on my Ranger. It eats them for some reason.

kkollwitz

Thanks for y'all's prompt input.

goodwrench4eve

My 2000 Silverado Z71 Ext 5.3 exhibits a rare condition. After starting and running for a minute or so, the fuel gauge drops to "E" and the low fuel indicator comes on. As soon as I put the trans into "D", the gauge reads correctly. If placed in "P", after a minute or so the gauge drops to "E" again. Can you point me in the right direction ? Sending unit, instrument cluster, wiring ?

crankshaft

The owners manual for my 92 Dodge Spirit states to use ATF PLUS.I see only ATF 3 and ATF 4 in the stores.Are either of these suitable for my 3SPD.auto transmission?

alcan

ATF+3 is the current fluid for your car, updated from the original ATF+ to provide more high temperature oxidation resistance and better cold flow rate. ATF+4 is a synthetic fluid used in most 2000+ DMC vehicles.

fishing1000

Can anyone of you guys tell me where the coolant temperatur sensor on a 99 dodge caravan 2.4 L is located?

In order to drain the coolant, I need to remove it.

Thanks

fishing1000

I thought that opening the draincock alone should already cause the coolant to drain. I do not understand why after turning it clockwise 1/4 turn, no coolant came out. Do I need to pull the draincock out of the radiator?

97rodeo

I have a 97 rodeo with 205K.
This occurance has happened once before, but seemed to fix itself. It happened again yesterday, dont know what it will do today.
Heres what happens;
Driving down the highway with the cruise control on, approach an incline (hill). Starting up the hill, the cruise works at keeping the same speed. Suddenly however the engine starts over revving, under revving and so on and naturally the tranny is trying to keep up with this. Not a good feeling. I take the cruise off and feather the gas pedal to smooth things out. Once I am back in town driving, from a stop, I accelerate and the same thing happens. The tach jumps up about 500 RPM and then back down again, over and over. My speed slowly increases, but can't stay constant on the pedal to accelerate.
The first time this after happened, I after the fact changed the fuel filter, but it had already stopped doing this "thing".
I haven't got a clue!
I read through the forum until about page 58 and wasn't finding this occurance per se.
My Rodeo has never had any major problems. It keeps on plugging away and I love it.

Mr_Shiftright

If you mean your engine is surging 500 rpm plus or minus even without the cruise control on, this is a symptom of an over-rich fuel mixture...or could be I mean. That's usually what happens.

kkollwitz

I got the brake lights working again, today my wife points out the radio display doesn't work (the blue-lit radio frequency/ clock/ cd song #, etc.)but the radio still works. I unplugged the fuse just to confirm the radio would stop working and start again when I replaced the fuse. I don't find in the manual any indication that the display is on another fuse. Ideas?

kkollwitz

radio display is fine, someone messed with the interior light settings, we couldn't tell til dark.

dblaird

Kia Recommends changing the oil plug washer at each oil change. Is that really necessary? Thanks!

97rodeo

Yes, thats whats happening. Would you know if the mixture control for the 3.2 is electronic or how it's mix is controlled?
Thanks!

driftracer

No, it's not neccesary, unless the washer is cracked or worn, but it gives Kia an "out" to avoid paying for warranty repairs.

Mr_Shiftright

Haven't a clue. Unfortuanately, most cars are engineered differently in the particulars and you'd have to have the tech manuals to figure this out.

nolanmum

We have a 2000 dodge durango wiht one dimmed headlight. We changed the bulb and it is dimmed. Do you know where we could find an electrical diagram??

Mr_Shiftright

Sounds like a bad ground or bad connector.

nolanmum

Do you know where we can get a diagram?

alcan

Right here, best deal around:

http://www.alldatadiy.com/

ddecker5

My mechanic told me that I have a cracked manifold. I've been putting it off for quite some time now. How long can I go like this?

qbrozen

intake or exhaust?

what year and make of car?

If exhaust and if the car has no sensors past the manifold, you could drive it forever like that .... until maybe inspection time. If they catch it, you are out of luck and will fail. Oh, or until the exhaust fumes leaking into the cabin make you pass out and crash the car.