Got a Quick, Technical Question?

mbehrman

Hope you can help, wiper only works when squirting fluid, replaced arm(swithch) no change.

any ideas?

89toy

PLEASE, PLEASE GIVE ME INFO IF YOU KNOW OF SIMILAR PROBLEM.

Have 89 4R with V-6, 5spd. Great body/interior. Compression is 165psi and hot idle oil pressure is 30psi.

THIS IS MY SORRY TALE:

  

NO CHECK ENGINE OR CODES FROM ECU.

Started to bog at low rpm. Replaced fuel pump; cold start injector, diaphram checked ok. Replaced ALL SIX fuel injectors (They were cracked and leaking), plugs, plug wires, dist cap, rotor.

  

Is now burning rich; runs good when cold, then black smoke out tailpipe when it warms up and cylinders 5&6 periodically misfire. Plugs in 1-4 cyliners are black, but not oily.

  

Have put $3,500 into it. Mechanic is going to check sensors and ecu with ohm meter. He seems in over his head. TELL ME WHAT TO DO before I have to declare bankruptcy!

bolivar

Here is a wild guess.

 

There may be a temperature sensor that is bad. Not the sensor that drives the gauge on the dash, another sensor that reports to the 'computer' if the car is 'cold' or 'hot'. It is saying the car is 'cold' all the time, so the computer runs the injectors, timing, etc in a 'rich' condition. Since you say it runs ok cold, then badly when hot, maybe something like this is what is wrong....

imidazol97

How do I fix the glass and motor parts of my outside door mirror. It got rubbed against the garage door and it seems to have loosened something or broken something inside. The mirror moves but doesn't seem to be working right and is not being held solidly.

 

How are these built? The service manual for the 1998 LeSabre doesn't address the internals of the mirror.

Mr_Shiftright

Oftent those mirrors are cable drives of some sort. I don't think it's worth digging in there. Try a wrecking yard or order one up new would be my advice, because you'll have to take it off no doubt anyway.

 

If you have a friendly body shop around they might know more and tell you, or you can always go to the dealer's parts department and see if they have a blow-up of the internals.

 

My impression is that this is a "replace only" item with no repair procedures.

Mr_Shiftright

Oftent those mirrors are cable drives of some sort. I don't think it's worth digging in there. Try a wrecking yard or order one up new would be my advice, because you'll have to take it off no doubt anyway.

 

If you have a friendly body shop around they might know more and tell you, or you can always go to the dealer's parts department and see if they have a blow-up of the internals.

 

My impression is that this is a "replace only" item with no repair procedures.

volvodan1

On a couple of cars I've sold in the past year there were mirror problems and the only solution was to replace the entire mirror.

steve h.

Hello,

 

I apologize if this is a double post. I tried to post earlier today, but couldn't find my message when I got home.

 

We have a 1993 Isuzu Trooper with 238k miles on it. There is a strange noise/vibration that only occurs on the interstate/highway and not around town.

 

Speed doesn't seem to be much of a factor, though it seems to happen at 50+ mph. The noise/vibration sounds almost like the vehicle is shuddering. It feels off-center towards the driver's side.

 

The odd thing is, you can take your foot off of the gas for just a second and the noise stops, then you can push down on the gas, the noise will stay gone for a few seconds/minutes and then return.

 

I've had a couple of different mechanics keep it and drive it and they can't pin the noise down. Any ideas (besides a different mechanic :-P )

 

Thanks in advance.

romal

P1170- FUEL AIR METERING.

P0170- SYSTEM LEAN BANK 1

P0300- RANDON MULTIPLE MISFIRES

 

MY MAZDA 2000 PROTEGE HAS THIS PROBLEM AND I TOOK IT TO THE MECANIC AND THEY SAID THAT THEY DONT KNOW WHAT IS CAUSING THE PROBLEM. I TOOK IT FOR TUNE UP AND THEY CHANGED THE PLUGS AND EVERYTHING. DO YOU THINK THAT I NEED TO CHANGE THE GAS FILTER OR THE AIR FILTER, AS WHEN I DRIVE THE CAR IT FEELS THAT THE CAR IS NOT ACCELERATING. WHEN I AM ON THE INTERSTATE I WILL HAVE TO ACCELERATE TO FULL AND IT WONT GO MORE THAN 70 MILES. CAN YOU HELP AS WHAT IS CAUSING THE PROBLEM AND WHAT NEEDS TO BE DONE OR CHANGED. IF YOU CAN HELP ME I WILL APPRECIATE IT. THANKS...

alcan

Take a close look at the air intake ducting between the airflow meter and throttle body for any cracks or other damage which would allow unmetered air into the engine.

 

AND TAKE YOUR CAPS LOCK KEY OFF.

driftracer

Change your fuel filter - many people neglect this serious maintenance issue, and I recommend changing it every 10,000 miles, or sooner, if performance issues arise.

 

I'm very surpised that the shop that did the tune up didn't recommend changing the fuel filter.

 

That may not completely cure the problem, but I guarantee it's a stumbling block. You didn't indicate if any of the diagnostic trouble codes were still present after the tune up.

 

And please lose the caps...

1racefan

Hello,

Don't know if this is the appropriate place to ask this or not, but here goes-

There is a section here on the Edmunds site that lists TSBs and Recalls by vehicle. I saw a TSB # that I would like to find out more about. Where is a good place (can it be done on this site?) to enter the TSB #, and get a complete explanation for the TSB? I would like to know what exactly the TSB suggests as being a fix in this particular case.

loams1

I have a 2000 pontiac sunfire with a four speed blower fan. presently only the 2 highest speeds work. what part is defective and needs to be replaced to allow all 4 fan speeds to operate properly? Thanks.

driftracer

motor resistor - this condition happens quite a lot in GM compacts and intermediates.

pn6

The check engine light on our 2000 Sienna is on. Diagnostic codes read P1130 and P1135 which translates to:

   

A/F Sensor Circuit Range/Performance (Bank 1 Sensor 1)

   

A/F Sensor Heater Circuit Malfunction (Bank 1 Sensor 1)

   

Has anyone encountered this or have recommendations on what to change?

 

I'm told in another forum that it's the A/F sensor on the firewall side, and that it's challenging for a DIY'r to replace. Could it be anything else?

 

Someone suggested cleaning the the MAP sensor by the air filter. The cars actually running a bit smoother, but the error code persists.

Mr_Shiftright

I don't think you can get a complete explanation of the TSB for free unless someone here who subscribes to the various databases would post that for you, which they may.

 

You can explore more at www.alldata.com, and of course you should google the government sites like NHTSA.

 

You can also try our "search" feature and use the "advanced" version of search, which allows you to search actual message text in each and every post ever posted at Edmunds! It is possible that entering the # of your TSB might reveal it in 'advanced search' mode. Be sure you click on "message text" search in advanced search mode.

 

shifty the host

chucko3

It could be a heat shield. Happened to my 89 Accord at highway speed. Removed the heat shield, the noise/vibration went away.

89toy

In hindsight, engine likely just needed new plugs and wires. The shop initially put in a fuel pump. Still ran ok, but didn't afftect the lisght bogg at low rpm (below 1500). They then replaced the fuel regulator, said the cold start injector was fine.

  

engine started frunning rough. Shop then said the new fuel pump with the correct pressure was overpowering the injectors because the injectors were leaking, cracked, etc. Put six new injector, plugs, wires, cap.

  

3.0L V-6 runs rich on all cylinders now. Five and especially six will foul out and then catch, but overall engine has one dead cylinder all the time and pours out black smoke through tail pipe.

  

tried different ECU and no change. Still no 'check engine' light. Been told by other mechanics in town that this is not uncommon for the pre'96 era Toys.

  

Shop at their expense is tacking it to a Toyota Dealer to diagnose. I am not impressed.

  

Let son take it to this shop as I did not have to work on his truck myself. Big mistake. will likely see these clowns in court. Meantime...

 NEED TO GET THE THING RUNNING!

  

Any info, experience, SWAG would be appreciated.

czjockey

Is there a secret to disconnecting the connector? I need to disconnect it in order to remove the radiator, and can't see a connector release button. I'm hesitant to yank it off -- don't want to break it.

 

As a fallback I can unscrew the whole unit from the bottom of the radiator, but that seems a bit extreme.

 

Bill Cobb

Mr_Shiftright

Sonds like the shotgun approach to auto repair. Sometimes works if you fire enough pellets but not in this case apparently.

 

I do think though that's it's nice of the shop to take it to the dealer for you. Maybe it'll work out for you?

inkie

Was in my wifes 2000 4 door accord today drivers window is the only one that works. Checked the fuses to the other windows they are okay. Is there a relay I should check? I am also thinking it may be the passenger lockout switch but I thought that was only for the rear windows. Help would be appreciated. Thanx.

awguthrie

My 1993 4Runner lost the water pump and then, more than likely, ate itself. Haven't torn it down yet, but was wondering:

1. What damage can I expect to find?

2. Is a crate/rebuild the best option?

3. Can you swap the 3.4 or other engine?

4. What is the "hot tip" in this situation?

Thanks

crankshaft

did the engine overheat?how do you know the engine is toast?if the engine is bad,i would either tear it down to see if it is repairable.the second option would be a good junk yard engine.on a 93,i would not invest the money on a new/rebuilt engine.you would never regain your investment on this twelve year old suv.

Mr_Shiftright

I think either rebuilding what you have or getting an exact fit used engine is your best bet. An overheat isn't as bad sometimes as running out of oil. If the engine didn't seize you may only need to do a cylinder head job.

 

Get an estimate on a tear down and be prepared to go with a rebuild or a used engine BEFORE they tear it down. You don't want to be in the situation of having your engine in pieces without having planned for all the scenarios you are likely to see.

awguthrie

Thanks for the insight. With so much adult supervision how can we fail?

That has been my plan. Best Buddy (Army) has a shop in Detroit. I plan on taking there to evaluate.

I agree, sentimentality aside, a replacement 4Runner with mine for on-sight parts depot would make more sense.

Thanks again,

AWGuthrie

Kirstie_H

Not asking as a host, just curious about what I might find - I'm taking the van to the shop, under warranty anyway.

 

When I turn, especially now that it's really cold, there's a horrible groaning/low-pitched whine noise. I suspected power steering fluid loss, and went to re-fill the PS fluid - nope, chock full. It's 12 degrees, so I didn't stay out to nose around much more, but it seems like there could be a blockage or kink in a hose, OR, my power steering pump is shot. Am I likely on the right track?

 

kirstie_h

driftracer

be air in one of the P/S lines, a kinked hose, or a failing pump. If the pump is failing, fluid level won't make a difference in the way it sounds.

qbrozen

the lockout switch does lock out all windows except driver's. So that's most likely your culprit.

inkie

Thanks for the info, Inkie

serranot

A couple of suggestions . . .

 

    First, you may have a problem with the lockup torque converter clutch. It sounds as though you are getting the vibration when the clutch locks/attemps to lock.

 

    Second, you may have a collapsed motor mount. This would permit the engine to torque around farther than it was designed, permitting hard parts to rub/vibrate. You can check this by opening the hood and watching the engine as you shift between park and reverse with the brakes on. If a mount is bad, the engine will flop all over the engine compartment.

 

Regards,

Tom

Kirstie_H

Thanks - that's kind of what I figured. If it were a leak, at least I'd be low on fluid. Hope it's not the pump. Even though it's under warranty, it's a pain to be without my car for several days (currently being used as a mobile construction trailer).

driftracer

Mr_Shiftright

I'm thinkin' it's possibly the power steering hydraulic rack, not the pump.

driftracer

this is a DCC van, right? I've seen plenty of vans, Stratus, Intrepid, and Neon racks fail.

Kirstie_H

1. No, no rental under warranty, and it is a Chrysler T&C. Next time I'm negotiating included rental during service.

 

2. Well, yesterday I opened the PS fluid reservoir yesterday and added a smidge of fluid. It was pretty full, but I added like 2 tablespoons, then put the cap back on. No noise since. What the heck???

 

I'm still going to take it in given that it's 2000 miles from warranty expiration, and if there's a problem, I don't want to find out 2001 miles from now. Thanks for the advice on the PS hydraulic rack - I'll ask that it be checked!

Mr_Shiftright

I think you'll find a small leak there. The internal valving doesn't like fluid pressure drops or fluid loss.

Kirstie_H

Could be - given the sudden start of the problem and sudden fix, I'm wondering if there wasn't an issue with the cap to the PS fluid reservoir being ajar. The noise started after I had the van in the shop for a recall issue, so perhaps the cap wasn't on tightly, which I suspect could have created a pressure problem.

 

Sometimes, just talking things out on this board helps one think logically!

Mr_Shiftright

If you don't think logically in diagnosing car problems you usually end up wasting money or having a disaster. Diagnosis requires real discipline and a lot of shops don't have it.

helpme4

i have a 1989 jeep wagoneer ltd i have been having problems with it losing power when i am turning , it stalls , sometimes it starts up right away, or i have to wait a bit before i start it, fuel pump,02 cencer was tried, plugs ect nobody know what is wrong with it please help me

hem311

I am working in Germany and understand metric and standard for sizes, but I thought that a brake rotor is a brake rotor world wide.

What is the difference in European (import) brake rotors/disks and american brake rotors/disks? (I.E. Honda/VW)

flory

No heat unless the motor is rev. this is even after the van has been runing for somtime.

Mr_Shiftright

Sounds like a bad thermostat or you are very low on coolant OR your heater core is completely plugged up.

 

quick fix: replace the thermostat, top off the coolant as per factory instructions for eliminating air blocks.

Kirstie_H

Ever had the alternator replaced? I am far, far from an expert, but I once had a vehicle that did the same thing, and a replacement alternator fixed the problem.

 

Has the fuel pump actually been replaced, and did they check the lines? My first instinct would be to head for a 2nd opinion on the fuel issues.

 

kirstie_h

Roving Host

Host, Future Vehicles & Smart Shopper discussions

burdawg

Is the jeep fuel injected or carbureted? I don't remember when the jeep line was fully fuel injected, I believe it was before 89. On a carbureted engine with those symptoms I would suspect a float problem.

Mr_Shiftright

No I think it was 1991 or so for Jeep. Some of their carburators were terrible, they had a kind of electronic carb as I recall. Very tempermental.

crankshaft

I have a 92 dodge spirit with the 2.5 liter (4).it uses the short stubby oil filter.Does anyone know if the "long filter"PH8 equiv.work ok on this engine?The filters look similar except the length.I have the room to install the longer filter.

vlw

The clock and door locks have stopped working on my 2000 Toyota Sienna Minivan. Any suggestions?

user777

FWIW: for this type of problem, i'd probably consult my owner's manual for details on where the fuses are located (either in the passenger compartment / dash area, or the engine compartment ((or both)).

 

i'd probably start by examining the fuse (or fuses) associated with those two functions. if one fuse handled both the clock and the locks, that would be a sign that a particular power circuit may be having an issue (a short somewhere?) resulting in a blown fuse perhaps.

 

many manufacturers supply spare fuses in the fuse block areas, and potentially, a fuse pull / insertion tool for fuse removal.

 

fuses can be inspected visually to some degree, or by using a continuity tester / ohm-meter to determine if an electrical path for current to flow remains intact.

 

at the very least, you can make sure the fuse is firmly inserted (has not vibrated loose), or alternatively, replace the fuse with a spare fuse (presumed to be good) of the same current rating (very important). a 7.5Amp fuse should be replaced with a 7.5Amp fuse. A 10Amp fuse with another 10Amp fuse. etc.

 

if re-seating or replacing a blown fuse "solves" the problem, then great!

 

if the problem re-surfaces after replacing a fuse(perhaps the fuse blows again) - don't keep replacing fuses for that circuit...

 

get it checked out! fuses are in an electrical ckt to "blow" (open up and inhibit flow of electrical current), when something in the circuit draws more current than it should... in this way it protects the ckt from, for example, electrical heating which could happen with a short, resulting in wiring damage, even leading to a fire.

 
just speculating, i suppose it might be possible that something restricting the door lock solenoids from moving freely when they were commanded (maybe ice buildup)? might cause the associated electrical circuit to temporarily draw more current than they were designed to draw, causing the fuse to blow. i'm sure the mechanics could tell you if that is in the realm of possibility in your case.

 

hope it helps.

Mr_Shiftright

I don't think you really gain anything by having a slightly larger filter. If you wish to extend oil changes you should be thinking more about the oils than the size of the filter IMO.

dodgejeff

On the weekend my wife siezed her Wiper motor in her 1992 Dodge Shadow.

 

How difficult is it to repair the wiper motor assembly?

 

As well, currently on the Dodge Shadow the wiper spray tube runs along the wiper arm and the spray nozzel is attached to the wiper arm itself. Is it possible to remove this assembly and place some sort of spray nozzel onto the nub in the hood where the tube connects into so it sprays the windowshield - the tubes keep freezing up and losing pressure.

 

Thanks

Jeff