Got a Quick, Technical Question?

fishing1000

Hi Alcan,

Where can I find that piece of information? I have heard that 99 escorts don't have timing belts but timing chains. Is that true? Thanks

bstigler1

thanks for the info----we have an appointment with the dealer next week----happy holidays---

alcan

Click the link I posted.

stever

Doesn't hurt to double-check though - Gates never has been consistent about whether my vehicle's engine is interference or not.

 

Steve, Host

fishing1000

Steve,

How can I check wether Gates is correct or not?

Thanks

stever

I'm sure the belts they specify are correct but check your owner's manual or ask your dealer about the intervals. In my case they just had the interference info wrong.

 

Steve, Host

cornellpinoy

My father's car is a 1992 Olds 88 with the 3800 V6. The battery and alternator are relatively new. When the car starts up, the voltmeter reads 13.7 and drops slowly. Usually by the time he gets to his destination, the voltmeter is reading 12.9. Any ideas what would be causing this? In all of our other GMs, the voltmeter stays near 14.4 volts.

 

Thanks in advance and Happy Holidays!

Mr_Shiftright

Could be an old battery. Is it more than 4 years old? Check the date, and if it says 2000 or older, swap it out.

hobo

My 2000 Volvo S40's engine light is on. When driving at low RPMs, the car would start to bog down, lose power and eventually stall. When I'm at a stoplight it often stalls as well. This is usually after a good 10 minutes of driving. I brought it to the dealer and they said the atmospheric sensor was bad and replaced it. It worked for a day or so, but now the car exhibits the same problem.

  

Does the atmospheric sensor sound like BS? I've never heard of it before. Also, we asked that they leave us the old parts, but they conveniently "forgot".

  

Any other ideas what may be causing this problem?

pka

I would like to have a remote starter installed on my honda 2005 odyssey...any suggestions/recommendations? will it affect the factory installed security alarm? will this affect the warranty?

bolivar

Although the discussed battery could die tonight, the voltages you quoted seem very reasonable to me.

 

Power is pulled from the battery by starting the car, and the alternator pushes power back into it by raising the voltage to the battery.

 

When it regains its full charge, the alternator stops charging, and the voltage read is the battery voltage, which would be about the 12.9volts you mentioned.

 

Everything looks good here to me.

crankshaft

Recently,my 91 cougar with 84k miles on the 3.8 v6

filled the #3cylinder with coolant.I assume the head gasket blew or the head cracked.The engine smoked bad out the exhaust.After shutting down the engine for a few minutes,I could not turn over the engine until I removed the spark plug.Overall,the vehicle is in excellent shape.Due to its age I am wondering if it's worth repairing and what kind of problems can I expect inside the engine.I would appreciate ant comments.

Mr_Shiftright

hard to say, but after repairing the initial problem, you might be okay. A good sign is that the engine kept running, even if smoking, which means it did not lock hydraulically and bend a connecting rod. Whether your engine bearings are going to like being soaked in coolant is another matter.

jsantich

Where is the oil filter located? I'm trying to change the oil on an 2004 six cylander, and can't locate the oil filter.

vcheng

... is at the front, hidden under the exhaust manifold, a little to the passenger side of the vehicle. Corollary: beware of the hot manifold when changing the oil filter.

greasemonkey

Thanks for all your help, I'll wait until my step daughters attitude changes first, before I even look at the clapped out piece of junk.. All this car will be is a run around, I got it for nothing from my land lord, as he wants me to start and old Chevy diesel. I suppose I'll have to do the same on his truck, just like you've suggested for this Corolla.

 

I appreciate all your help,

 

Regards,

 

The Greasemonkey, more commonly know as Dave..

mikezat

Hi! My friend just bought a used 2002 Accord LX Auto (40K mi). I noticed that some of his gauge lights have this backlight - the indicators are not lit but noticeable. I looked at my 2001 Honda Accord LX and I do not see this backlight.

The example of the controls that are noticeably lighter are Maintenance Required, Left and Right blinkers, open door indicators for both Left and Right doors but not the Rear doors. I am curious if his odometer has been tampered with or this is a typical Honda problem? If somebody somehow messed with the milage, will the onboard computer show it? We do not want to take it to a dealer unless we know for sure that they can actually tell.

 

 Any input is greatly appreciated

97rodeo

I saw a Rebuild/ Remanufacturing company that suggested buying a used engine rather then a reman/rebuild because of the lack of material for grinding/ honing etc. which would thin the engine out and reduce its life span.

On the other hand, there are "hundreds" of engine reman/rebuild companies that say nothing about that, and will sell you a remanufactured engine.

With 200,000 miles on my Rodeo, I would like to start thinking about a new heart for her.

So, any ideas or knowledge about this? Rebuild the engine I have, a used engine or a remanufactured engine? Thanks...

Mr_Shiftright

It's worth paying attention to that. There are definitely some engines that have not had a great rate of success with over-boring. Personally I don't see the sense in putting a brand new engine in such an old (mileage-wise) vehicle, since the rest of the car still has 200K on it and other major components are at risk.

 

You might be able to buy an entire, very decent lower mileage 97 Rodeo for close the price of an expertly built engine. Figure a used engine, by the time you've done everything necessary "while we're in there", is a $2,500 proposition at least.

0patience

If it has a digital dash, then the only way to change the odometer reading is in the computer and it takes a very specialized program to do that. It wouldn't affect the instrument panel at all.

Even if it has a mechanical odometer, it is unlikely that it would affect the rest of the dash.

97rodeo

Thanks for your response to my question.

I understand what you are saying about a new engine and the rest of the vehicle still being old. I am looking at options right now to see which direction to go. I believe that should I keep the vehicle, I will go with a used engine rather than a reman. I have this rolling restoration thing spinning in my head!

Thanks for helping me with that part of my decision. pjs

newman1

I'm having an engine surge when accelorating lightly. Cleaned mass air flow, changed transmission filter/fluid, tuned up. Any suggestioins?

jgmilberg

It sounds like a nickel and dime idea to me. You replace the heart with a lower mileage unit, then the trans gets thrashed, another used (unproven) unit, because rebuild will be $1500 or better, then the differential takes a bath.... If the body is in really and I mean REALLY good shape, a reman engine and tranny is the first true step to your "rolling rest" plan. With a used engine you have no idea how it was maintained, or if it was abused by the previous owner. A good shop should be able to re-use your block for a rebuild w/o boring it out, a simple ridge ream and hone will do, providing you took care of the engine there shouldn't be anything a hone shouldn't be able to get out. Still look at doing the trans and engine together, they work in tandem with one another and almost wear together if you will. The added power of a rebuilt/low mileage used engine in my experience is enough to wipe out an old tranny in short order.

 

Now if you are going to follow this plan of attack keep in mind that you should look at the other major parts as well, it's best not to wait until they fail, but to go at them as you can afford them. The entire steering system, gearbox, ball joints, tie rod ends, center/drag link, idler arms, all will need to be gone through and replaced, along with your bearing plates if it's a 4WD. Then there's the rear end, nothing lasts forever, the axle bearings an seals should be done along with a good check of the ring and pinion gears they are probably ready to be replaced. Now for the springs, after a 200K mile beating they have to be sagging and bobbing around. Even after changing all the major components are replaced you still have a truck with 200k on the dash, and now you can plan on the electrical system getting some gremlins in there.

 

My realistic estimate on the whole deal broken down:

 

Engine/Trans rebuilt $3000

Engine/Trans used $1800

Steering $ 600

Rear Diff $ 500

Front Diff (4WD) $ 400

Transfer Case (4WD) $ 450

Springs $ 750

Paint Job (average) $1000

 

So really to do it the right way to are looking at around $3700 on top of the engine & tranny replacement, add that in and you get $6700 w/new or $5500 w/used. For that kind of cash I'm sure you can find a much nicer ride with a whole lot less miles, and not have to deal with the hassle of being w/o the truck wile it's in the shop for each stage of the make over. Maybe a call to "Pimp My Ride" would be in order if you are really that attached to the old rodeo.

alcan

Don't forget the alternator, starter, electric fuel pump, power steering pump, water pump, wiper motor & linkage.......

qbrozen

no, it won't affect the warranty unless it actually causes problems in the vehicle, which it shouldn't if installed properly.

 

I just had one installed in our Pilot last week. I can tell you that I'm not very happy with it. Due to the factory alarm, the only way to operate it is to unlock the doors with the remote before starting the car. So I strongly suggest going with a whole new alarm/remote start that will eliminate the factory alarm altogether.

97rodeo

And then reality set in. Blah!

You would never guess she has that many miles because she does look that good inside and out. Still shines up like a diamond. I think thats what the problem is. (besides bad credit, thanks ex!)

She has done me so well for so long, I can't imagine not trying (having) to keep her on the road.

I printed off what you guys explained that would need to be done. Obviously, I need to think about it more and my options. Haven't you ever had a set of wheels you smile at and glance back at when you park and say thanks for the ride sweetie!? Thats the relationship I got going.

Hope this isn't a closet thing or something.

Thanks again for the input!! pjs

fishing1000

I called several ford dealerships and they said 60,000 miles. Who is correct, Gates or Ford people?

dcook

How much rear axle endplay is acceptable on a '95 Ford F-150 with bolt on rear diff. cover? I was told there were only 2 rear-ends used a solid and bolt on rear ocver.

stever

I'd go with the longer interval <g>.

 

The owner's manual should describe maintenance intervals and should be correct.

 

Steve, Host

driftracer

a Haynes or Chiltons manual.

clhoste

My Jeep of 199K proud miles has been hesitating

periodically. When it occurs, the rpms will slowly drop and I will be unable to accelerate.

 

Upon forst experiencing this I changes the fuel filter and added a supposedly good fuel injector cleaner.

 

My wife is in transit as I write aftewr traveling some 600+ miles and she experiencing

extreme hesitation.

Any suggestions? I read something about cleaning

the throttle body. Is that just a matter of removing the air intake and spraying ether into

the carburator?

 

Need help ASAP!!!

 

Regards,

Chris

nissan_sentra

greetings all,

  

I have a 99 nissan sentra gxe that i recently bought. i changed the oil when i got it and filled it up with chevron 10w-30. When i first start the car after sitting for awhile, the oil light flashes - probably from .5 - 1 second. I know that the oil light flashing is normal, but it just seems slightly longer than on other cars i've had. Do you think the .5-1 second is a problem? Should i use 5w-30 or a better brand of oil?

  

the other thing was that when i hit a bump in the road, something will squeal - at first i thought i was my horn going off, but i think it is something in my suspension. what could it be?

  

thanks,

  

N

Mr_Shiftright

If you don't have a mechanical oil pressure gauge you really have no idea what the true pressure is. You could swap out the old sender and clean the wire connector. That would be cheap and easy and might cure the problem.

jgmilberg

Start looking for a disconnected, broken or degraded vacuum line. If you don't see it right off I use either carb cleaner to find it, when you spray the carb cleaner on the lines it will make the engine engine jump up, then it's just a matter of replacing that line, or connector. Rubber/plastic gets brittle, and breaks down over the year, but on a '98 I would look for a broken or disconnected line. Other possibilities could be Oxygen sensor, or EGR valve.

jgmilberg

I had the same problem with my '92 Dodge van only had problems after the engine warmed up, and I was driving for awhile. RPM slowly drop off and engine would stall. It ended up being a faulty ignition coil, the case was actually cracked, but only a hairline crack, it was gradually leaking/arching to ground. When was the last major tune up, plugs, wires, cap, rotor? I would start with a tune up and ignition coil, it's easy and cheap enough, and with that mileage it probably couldn't hurt anyway.

Mr_Shiftright

Well you don't have a carburator so you can forget that. I think Jeep ditched those in '91 or around there. You need to have the Jeep scanned for trouble codes for starters. While some of the other suggestions have their logic certainly, I can't personally see any of the items mentioned delivering quite the symptoms you mentioned. At those high miles, certainly injectors are suspect. Sometimes these problems, especially on old cars like this, require very patient diagnosis. I always advise people to "start with the simple and work to the complex" and to ALWAYS consider that two things are going wrong at once. Also, never assume that something you took NEW out of the box is automatically discounted as the problem.

 

I'd tend to think that most severe ignition problems tend to stop the vehicle or make it run so badly as to be undrivable, so I'm going to lean toward a fuel related issue, component or sensor.

andyman73

Also check the fuel pump. They aren't designed to run 200K. Even the some do. So check that out, too!

nissan_sentra

Mr. Shiftright,

 

thanks for the reply..

 

What is a mechanical oil pressure gauge?

 

What is the "old sender" and how do i swap it out and "clean the wire connector."

 

thanks for the tips

Mr_Shiftright

that's a gauge you screw into the hole where the electrical sensor normally fits into the engine. The gauge has numbers, usually from 0-60 lbs. When you crank up the engine you get a real analog reading of the pressure.

 

"Idiot lights" are merely simple electrical circuits which light up when the sender or sensor in the engine is "tickled" by oil pressure and grounds itself to the block, thereby completing the circuit and light the light on the dashboard.

 

Soooooo.....if you pull the wire off the sending unit or sensor that's screwed into the engine, and you ground that disconnected wire, the dash light would light.

 

So an "idiot light" basically tells you only "pressure or no pressure" but not HOW MUCH presssure.

motobu

My 99 Villager has recently started making clicking or clunking noises when I make a turn in either direction. I only notice the sound at low speeds, cornering.

 

Any help?

alcan

The most common cause is an outer CV joint. Start by checking for a torn boot.

motobu

Is that something I could repair myself with basic mechanical knowledge and a Chiltons?

andmoon

I have a black 94 legend that is in great shape except for parking lot door dings and scratches on the hood and trunk. The clear hood guard that was put on 7 years ago has deteriorated to the point of UGLY. The paint still shines great but I would like to fix all the defects and was thinking of a paint job in the original color.

 

What kind of paint does my car have? I didn't know there were so many types of paint. What are the positives and negatives of each? How much is a reasonable price for a paint job that is in the same quality neighborhood as it came from the factory?

 

I have had quotes from $200 on up and I don't have a clue as to the options i have.

 

Thanks,

 

Don

stickguy

don't tackle CV joints unless you have the equipment (a lift comes in handy) and a pretty good idea about what you are doing.

alcan

They're pretty straightforward. Remove the axle nut, raise it and remove the wheel, separate the ball joint, swing the strut outward to disengage the axle shaft, pry the inner CV joint housing out of the transaxle, remove the axle shaft.

Mr_Shiftright

Paint job equal to factory paint would be in the area of $3,500 to $5,000.

 

You can get a "decent" temporary paint job that might look good for 3 years for less, or you can ruin your car by spending under $1,500.

andmoon

thanks for the reply.

 

Would you also tell me the types of paint? Household terms would be 'latex' or 'enamel'. The paint shops were offering multi types of paint and I have no clue as to what is what.

 

Don

motobu

Thank you very much.

Mr_Shiftright

Here's a pretty good overall description of paints used on cars from way back when to now. It's not complete but it gives you an overview, and from these labels you can probably "google" other more detailed explanations.

 

Shifty your Host

 

http://members.tripod.com/~bobstory/faq.html#Automotive%20Paint0

harris4

I also need to get new rotors and front brake pads. Could this cause the warning light to stay on? I have not changed my driving habits and did not get the warning light when I drove on slick or snow poacked streets. Now it is on all the time. Please help. Thanks