two mistakes the beginner often makes with rebuilding an automatic are lack of cleanliness and replacing parts that don't need replacing. If you don't have compressed air, a good strong steel workbench to lay things out, and a parts cleaner, you are up the creek pretty much.
If I may add on just a little hearsay, the cleanliness and knowledge of which parts to replace and not to replace are factors. But a mechanic friend (for a city fleet) points out the knowledge needed about how all the modifications that are made during a single model year. Just keeping up with the knowledge of who changed what and why is a full time job.
I don't want someone who doesn't understand what was changed on my 4T65E in 98 and whether I'm better off with a factory reman from GM or another reman or with him doing just the parts needed. At 130K mi I may need that skill some day soon and I want someone who spends his time just doing trannies making the decision.
It isn't just hearsay. Automatic trans valve bodies typically have about .0006" clearance between the valves and their bores. That's about 1/6 the thickness of a sheet of writing paper or a human hair. Imagine what could happen if valves were dried with paper wipers or shop towels, and lint or fibres were left behind to hang valves in their bores.
It would make a fun DIY job, on the internet you can find all the weak points of a particular transmission. Example the 4L60E, worn valve bodies, weak sun shell, 1-2 accumulator wear. All this information was found online, that must be why they call the information highway.
I bought a 1987 Chevrolet Monte Carlo SS. The prevoius owner had replaced the original transmission with a Turbo 350 3 speed transmission. The car has 3:73 differiential gears. The engine turns very high RPM for a given speed. Why would someone put this transmission in this car?
I have a nonturbo auto. 7mge when cold doesnt like to shift and when it does shifts hard. when driven hard doesnt want to shift into 4th. starts slipping have to put in neutral and than back into drive. any suggestions? also how hard to convert into 5 speed manual
I own a '99 JGC with about 85000 miles. It was completely serviced at 55,000 when I bought it (supposedly). My check engine light started coming on two days ago when the car shifted from first to second gear (automatic) and would then stay on until the car was shut off. I checked the fluid and found it to be a little low, so I added some fluid. Today the JGC would no longer shift from first to second. Reverse works and first gear works. Am I looking at a possible simple fix or does this sound like a major repair? Also, should I consider driving it slowly to the shop or get it towed?
"Does anmybody know where I can buy atf fluid that meets this spec? The only fluid I can find is amsoil universal."
SP III is a Mitsubishi proprietary formula. Since Hyundai uses this fluid, too, for its Hyundai and KIA lines, Mitsubishi licensed the formula to Hyundai for duplication for sale only through that company's respective take-yer-money-ships. Thus, the only sources for a qualified SP III fluid are Hyundai, KIA, and Mitsubishi take-yer-money-ships. I've found it locally for $8.39/qt. at a Mitsubishi take-yer-money-ship, and as low as $3.69/qt. at a Hyundai take-yer-money-ship. Unless Mitsubishi licenses the formula for aftermarket duplication, any substitute is merely it's blender's best guess at friction modifier chemistry compatibility with clutch facings, and adherence to detergency, viscosity, and basic lubrication requirements for cold and hot operation. Hyundai issued a TSB over a year and a half ago that the company would not extend warranty coverage on units which had not been serviced with genuine SP III. Dunno how the company could verify that, but I don't intend to find out the hard way with my Sonata. If you're currently using Amsoil Universal, you could be risking warranty claim denial depending on what make car you drive and its manufacturer's policy regarding aftermarket ATFs. I have also seen two so-called "universal" formulations, "Coastal", at Autozone, for $3.69/qt., and "SuperTech", at WalMart, for ~$2.44/qt. which claim SP III compatibility. Again, you pays your money and takes your chances.
(I have also posted this message in Electronic Gremlins and Idle Problems, as my car's problem encompasses all of these areas)
I'm a frequent poster on Edmunds, but have never had one as crazy as this. My car's check engine light came on a few days ago. The car ran well enough with it on for a few days. The light even went off briefly. However, this morning, the light had returned, and the car refused to shift out of first gear. Additionally, the input to the pedal did not directly correlate with the motor's reaction. Strangest was my fuel gauge, which now randomly meanders between 1/2 tank and empty and settles for awhile before wandering again (I have a little bit less than a half tank remaining). I took it to a local auto parts store where they ran the trouble codes. TPS was listed as one of the codes, and so I replaced it. The car now idles well enough, but still refuses to shift out of first, and the TPS trouble code refuses to be erased when clearing codes with the OBD II. The clearing of the codes appears to have settled my idle, and replacing the TPS has made my pedal input better correlate with the motor's reaction. Additionally, the fuel gauge problem appears to have righted itself, but the car still won't shift out of first.
My friend suspects the problem lies in my Electronic Control Module, but he admits he doesn't know GMs all that well. I have the following questions:
- Does anyone else think this is the likely culprit? - Would a repair shop be able to use their Snap-On Diagnostics to better pinpoint the problem? - Is there any sort of traceable relay that might be fouled between the computer and the transmission? - How likely is it that the problem resides in the transmission (I had it flushed a little more than a year ago)?
I appreciate any thoughts on what's ailing my car. Thanks.
Sounds very snake-oil to me just reading about it. What do you all think?
The claims sound rather...well..scientifically implausible to say the least. It's like having a bad clutch in a manual transmission and adding something from a can to fix it.
It definitly was shifting into 2nd, when it shifted. I had the trans replaced with a low mileage used unit. This was cheaper than a rebuild. So far, so good.
Our automatic 2004 Outback (22K miles) snarls, almost like a buzzer, from within the engine when shifting from first to second, right at around 2000RPM. Is fine on other shifts. Any ideas what might the cause? Thanks.
I've got a transmission issue on an '03 V8 4Runner where I was on a 3 hour drive where all of a sudden the Xmission would not go into 4th or 5th gear. I had to drive the rest of the way going slow since I didn't want to red line it in 3rd. I went and read the DTC code and got the following:
P0776 "Pressure Control Solenoid B Performance or Stuck Off"
But after the car sat for a little while I drove it again and the problem had gone away, so it's intermittent. Looking at the shop manual, the first thing it says to check is a specific solenoid. It seems plausible that the solenoid that they refer to was simply stuck due to the intermittent nature of the failure.
Checking the solenoid requires dropping the pan on the tranny. But at this point I'm pretty sure that no problem would show up, since the issue went away. I know the problem will come back at the most inconveinient time, so hoping that "it fixed itself" is usually not wise. I'd be inclined to simply replace the solenoid once I bother dropping the tranny pan since messing with tranny fluid and gasket sealer is such a pain.
Before I go to all the trouble though, has anyone else seen this?
I've got 65,000 miles on it already, so I'm out of the warranty. I got a Toyota because I wanted reliability. I'm not that impressed to be seeing issues in the Xmission already. This feels too much like something that would be expected on a Chrysler and not on a Toyota.
I recently had the transmission rebuilt on a 1999 Ford Escort ZX2 by an independent mechanic. The transmission failed completely approx. 4 1/2 later. It was rebuilt again by a reputable transmission shop.
When it was rebuilt again, the transmission shop found five mistakes made by the original mechanic. The original mechanic is disputing one of the mistakes found by the transmission shop, saying it was impossible to make that mistake as there was only one way for the part to be put in, that it was idiot-proof (in his case, a good thing).
I would like to know if the original mechanic is correct that one of the mistakes found by the transmission shop would have been impossible to make. I'm not exactly sure which mistake(s) he questioned so I will list all five. My best recollection is that it was numbers two and three, that the N-R accumulator piston and springs were located in the 2-3 accumulator piston bore and vice versa.
1) Forward friction plate located on top of dished plate. Correct location is on top of bottom forward steel plate.
2) N-R accumulator piston bore and springs located in the 2-3 accumulator piston bore.
3) 2-3 accumulator piston and springs located in the N-R accumulator piston bore.
4) Sprag was out of position in housing causing a bind up. Problem was caused by improper installation or sprag failure.
5) Excessive clutch friction and steel plate damage found throughout transaxle.
Would any of the above mistakes have been impossible to make? Also, would the mistakes made have caused the transmission to fail?
Have the speed sensor checked. If the sensor is going bad you will have problems. Also have the sensor looked at for metal shavings. If you find a lot of shavings you have bigger problems.
If months, you might have a Small Claims situation here and you'd probably collect, with the second mechanic's testimony or affadavit. If 4 & 1/2 years, you have no recourse and the idea of "mistakes" doesn't seem reasonable.
I have a 1993 Mercury Tracer LTS that needs an automatic transmission. Can someone tell me what other models of Tracer or Escort will work.It has a 1.8 engine.
Intermittenly (but often) the car seems to shift hard into first gear when coming to a stop and sometimes upon start up it does a little "bump". Dealer says I need a new tranny mount and that it's normal to feel something but that's why it's so harsh. Has anyone else heard of this, any thoughts?
I have a 1997 Land Rover Discovery SD with 69,534 miles on it. I just got it about a month ago. I was driving home and I was going up a hill and the vehicle started to rumble a little as the vehicle began to slow down. I pressed the gas a little more and the car was bucking lightly. The RPM gauge was revving really high, so I pulled over, tried to put in 4 wheel drive to help it along and nothing. I shut the vehicle off for about 1-2 minutes. Started it back up again and put it in 'drive' and it ran fine for about 2 miles and started to slow down again. I stopped for about a minute or so, started the vehicle again and it ran for another mile or so. I repeated this til I got home. I am hoping that the transmission is still good and this is a minor problem. My gut feeling is that the torque converter has gone bad. Big Money!
Probably a naive question, but my 3.7 WK (2005 Grand Cherokee) has 4.5k miles on it and the tranny was just overhauled... Dealer believes it was a manufacturing defect (tranny recall done 3 weeks after I got car and there was definitely no water)... Tranny would bang into 3rd gear... First dealer I took it too actually said it was "normal"...
Anyway, it is now fixed and shifts fine. I'm curious about longevity. Is an overhauled tranny "as good as new"? In buying the WK my intent was to keep it till the wheels fall apart... But the Commander is sure looking nice these days...
I am having trouble with the transmission on my 02 Limited. It shifted and ran fine until I had the fluid changed at the dealership around 60,000 and since then I have lost 5 MPG. I recently took it in because 2nd gear went away twice. I just got it back and now am only getting 13 MPG as opposed to the original 19. The truck feels like something is not "locking up" right. At 30 MPH the engine sounds like it is revving and the tach says 2000 to 2200 rpms. The dealership is telling me to stop being so fussy?? I know this is not normal but any suggestions? Help please. By the way I still want to know who the engineer is that designed this "lifetime fill" trans without a dipstick? Thanks, Julie
Julie, Don't let the dealer walk all over you. Stand your ground, you may need to find a real honest independant transmission person, to verify that you have a problem. Most likely your vehicle is still under warranty. So don't let the independant fix anything. If you find for sure there is a problem, which it sounds like you definatly have. Then you start by threatining legal action. And you should also then start researching the lemon law stuff here on the net. And be careful about the line of crap they will give you. They are buying time to get that warranty outa the way. So then they will be off the hook. New Fords are known for bad automatic transmissions. Customers are suffering for bad engineering and manufacturing practices. The internal parts of newer transmissions are crap compaired to the good old days. Good luck.
Thank you for the input. I remember the good ole days. I used to drag race and have torn apart many a trans for racing and rebuilt and beefed up motors then but my knowledge is missing the important computer controls. I will try one of the trans shops here. I had the rear end and axle shaft bearing done due to my taking it to a different dealer and walking into my dealer with papers in hand and quotes. I just didn't think to do the same with the trans. I am so saddened by this whole experience. I have never had a vehicle that has cost me so much in repairs as this has or that I could get and go without any thought of break downs. Thank you again.
I rented an Opel Vectra station wagon with a manual transmission in Spain. I usually drive an automatic, but know how to drive a manual. Almost as soon as I drove out of the lot, I had problems with the transmission. I put the transmission in neutral at the stop light and when it turned green I put it into first gear and slowly let up on the clutch and stepped on the gas, but the clutch did not engage and smoke started to come out from the edges of the hood. This happened continually at almost every stop light, until finally the clutch pedal would not return to its original position and fell to the floor, only after driving 5km (3 miles) from the rental car lot. I had to have some kind bystanders push my car to a safe spot. The rental car company brought me a replacement car and I was on my way.
Did I burn the clutch cable and ruin the transmission? Has anyone here ever experienced something like this? :confuse:
96 Sebring JX (auto). I was on the highway the other day and at arounf 40 mph the car would no longer accelerate. It was as if the car was in nuetral. I pulled over and after a few mins I was able to drive for 10 yards or so before it happened again. The car wouldnt move in any of the drive gears, nor reverse. The tranny fluid was full. The car is currently at the dealer, but I havent heard anything back yet. I was told I needed a new transmission mount a few weeks ago (could feel a harsh downshift), the harsh downshift miraculosly went away 2 days before this latest problem happened. Any thoughts as to what the problem could be?? :lemon: Joe
my wife has a 99 beetle and its having trouble in 2nd gear going into 3rd gear. it revs up to 4000rpms trying to get to 35mph and once it does it jerks into 3rd and it wont go past 45mph. The folks at the VW dealership claim that the transmisson fluid has a lifetime guarantee, i think it's bull. What im saying is i think its a transmission problem. Can the transmission be flushed out and changed is my question
what up i have a 1990 acura integra LS automatic and when im driving on the road regular it will act like its in netral and i wont go no where. does anybody know what the hell is wrong with it i am totally stumped if you could help me out that would be great thanks.
Our 2002 Acura RSX-S with about 85,000 miles seems to have developed a stiff clutch. We didn't notice it of course since the change over time must have been very gradual. The mechanic at the dealership who drives these cars all the time pointed it out to me. I checked a new car in the showroom and sure enough - the clutch was MUCH lighter!
So is stiff clutch indicative of any future failure? What does it mean? I couldn't get any explanation from the dealer other than "keep an eye on it, and we may have to replace it when it starts slipping."
Thanks Mr Shiftright. If it is a bad pressure plate, how bad can the problem be? Can it go on like this a lot longer or are we looking at an impending disaster any minute now?
No way to know really. If it gets really bad you just won't be able to get it into gear at all. In theory, the plate can self-destruct, in which case you'll hear a lot of noise and your clutch pedal will go to the floor and stay there. I would say that if you start to hear noise or if the pressure to press down on the clutch gets ridiculous, become pre-emptive and fix it.
I'll keep an eye on it. Inspecting the clutch in not a cost-effective option - just to get to the clutch there is so much labor involved (was quoted 8 hours) that I might as well change it at that point.
My 92 dodge spirit has the A413 3spd auto transmission with a lockup converter.Recently,I have noticed the converter is not locking when the vehicle is cold.After a few miles It begins to lookup as usual at 40 mph.Fluid is level is normal and is bright red.There is 62k miles on the vehicle.Does anyone have any ideas?
Comments
I don't want someone who doesn't understand what was changed on my 4T65E in 98 and whether I'm better off with a factory reman from GM or another reman or with him doing just the parts needed. At 130K mi I may need that skill some day soon and I want someone who spends his time just doing trannies making the decision.
2014 Malibu 2LT, 2015 Cruze 2LT,
SP III is a Mitsubishi proprietary formula. Since Hyundai uses this fluid, too, for its Hyundai and KIA lines, Mitsubishi licensed the formula to Hyundai for duplication for sale only through that company's respective take-yer-money-ships. Thus, the only sources for a qualified SP III fluid are Hyundai, KIA, and Mitsubishi take-yer-money-ships. I've found it locally for $8.39/qt. at a Mitsubishi take-yer-money-ship, and as low as $3.69/qt. at a Hyundai take-yer-money-ship. Unless Mitsubishi licenses the formula for aftermarket duplication, any substitute is merely it's blender's best guess at friction modifier chemistry compatibility with clutch facings, and adherence to detergency, viscosity, and basic lubrication requirements for cold and hot operation. Hyundai issued a TSB over a year and a half ago that the company would not extend warranty coverage on units which had not been serviced with genuine SP III. Dunno how the company could verify that, but I don't intend to find out the hard way with my Sonata. If you're currently using Amsoil Universal, you could be risking warranty claim denial depending on what make car you drive and its manufacturer's policy regarding aftermarket ATFs. I have also seen two so-called "universal" formulations, "Coastal", at Autozone, for $3.69/qt., and "SuperTech", at WalMart, for ~$2.44/qt. which claim SP III compatibility. Again, you pays your money and takes your chances.
I'm a frequent poster on Edmunds, but have never had one as crazy as this. My car's check engine light came on a few days ago. The car ran well enough with it on for a few days. The light even went off briefly. However, this morning, the light had returned, and the car refused to shift out of first gear. Additionally, the input to the pedal did not directly correlate with the motor's reaction. Strangest was my fuel gauge, which now randomly meanders between 1/2 tank and empty and settles for awhile before wandering again (I have a little bit less than a half tank remaining). I took it to a local auto parts store where they ran the trouble codes. TPS was listed as one of the codes, and so I replaced it. The car now idles well enough, but still refuses to shift out of first, and the TPS trouble code refuses to be erased when clearing codes with the OBD II. The clearing of the codes appears to have settled my idle, and replacing the TPS has made my pedal input better correlate with the motor's reaction. Additionally, the fuel gauge problem appears to have righted itself, but the car still won't shift out of first.
My friend suspects the problem lies in my Electronic Control Module, but he admits he doesn't know GMs all that well. I have the following questions:
- Does anyone else think this is the likely culprit?
- Would a repair shop be able to use their Snap-On Diagnostics to better pinpoint the problem?
- Is there any sort of traceable relay that might be fouled between the computer and the transmission?
- How likely is it that the problem resides in the transmission (I had it flushed a little more than a year ago)?
I appreciate any thoughts on what's ailing my car. Thanks.
Hopefully it won't come to that. But, if it does, your fight will be with the automaker, not with the take-yer-money-ship. Good luck.
http://www.transmaticsc.com
The claims sound rather...well..scientifically implausible to say the least. It's like having a bad clutch in a manual transmission and adding something from a can to fix it.
I've got a transmission issue on an '03 V8 4Runner where I was on a 3 hour drive where all of a sudden the Xmission would not go into 4th or 5th gear. I had to drive the rest of the way going slow since I didn't want to red line it in 3rd. I went and read the DTC code and got the following:
P0776 "Pressure Control Solenoid B Performance or Stuck Off"
But after the car sat for a little while I drove it again and the problem had gone away, so it's intermittent. Looking at the shop manual, the first thing it says to check is a specific solenoid. It seems plausible that the solenoid that they refer to was simply stuck due to the intermittent nature of the failure.
Checking the solenoid requires dropping the pan on the tranny. But at this point I'm pretty sure that no problem would show up, since the issue went away. I know the problem will come back at the most inconveinient time, so hoping that "it fixed itself" is usually not wise. I'd be inclined to simply replace the solenoid once I bother dropping the tranny pan since messing with tranny fluid and gasket sealer is such a pain.
Before I go to all the trouble though, has anyone else seen this?
I've got 65,000 miles on it already, so I'm out of the warranty. I got a Toyota because I wanted reliability. I'm not that impressed to be seeing issues in the Xmission already. This feels too much like something that would be expected on a Chrysler and not on a Toyota.
Thanks,
Eric
When it was rebuilt again, the transmission shop found five mistakes made by the original mechanic. The original mechanic is disputing one of the mistakes found by the transmission shop, saying it was impossible to make that mistake as there was only one way for the part to be put in, that it was idiot-proof (in his case, a good thing).
I would like to know if the original mechanic is correct that one of the mistakes found by the transmission shop would have been impossible to make. I'm not exactly sure which mistake(s) he questioned so I will list all five. My best recollection is that it was numbers two and three, that the N-R accumulator piston and springs were located in the 2-3 accumulator piston bore and vice versa.
1) Forward friction plate located on top of dished plate. Correct location is on top of bottom forward steel plate.
2) N-R accumulator piston bore and springs located in the 2-3 accumulator piston bore.
3) 2-3 accumulator piston and springs located in the N-R accumulator piston bore.
4) Sprag was out of position in housing causing a bind up. Problem was caused by improper installation or sprag failure.
5) Excessive clutch friction and steel plate damage found throughout transaxle.
Would any of the above mistakes have been impossible to make? Also, would the mistakes made have caused the transmission to fail?
Thanks...Dan
If months, you might have a Small Claims situation here and you'd probably collect, with the second mechanic's testimony or affadavit. If 4 & 1/2 years, you have no recourse and the idea of "mistakes" doesn't seem reasonable.
http://car-part.com/
Joe
I am hoping that the transmission is still good and this is a minor problem. My gut feeling is that the torque converter has gone bad. Big Money!
I need some input on this, please!
Thanks.
chrisusvi
Take it to the dealer or a trusted, reccommended independent for a look.
Anyway, it is now fixed and shifts fine. I'm curious about longevity. Is an overhauled tranny "as good as new"? In buying the WK my intent was to keep it till the wheels fall apart... But the Commander is sure looking nice these days...
Thanks!
Thanks,
Julie
Don't let the dealer walk all over you. Stand your ground, you may need to find a real honest independant transmission person, to verify that you have a problem.
Most likely your vehicle is still under warranty. So don't let the independant fix anything. If you find for sure there is a problem, which it sounds like you definatly have. Then you start by threatining legal action. And you should also then start researching the lemon law stuff here on the net. And be careful about the line of crap they will give you. They are buying time to get that warranty outa the way. So then they will be off the hook.
New Fords are known for bad automatic transmissions.
Customers are suffering for bad engineering and manufacturing practices. The internal parts of newer transmissions are crap compaired to the good old days.
Good luck.
Thank you again.
Did I burn the clutch cable and ruin the transmission? Has anyone here ever experienced something like this? :confuse:
I was told I needed a new transmission mount a few weeks ago (could feel a harsh downshift), the harsh downshift miraculosly went away 2 days before this latest problem happened.
Any thoughts as to what the problem could be??
:lemon:
Joe
it revs up to 4000rpms trying to get to 35mph and once it does it jerks into 3rd and it wont go past 45mph. The folks at the VW dealership claim that the transmisson fluid has a lifetime guarantee, i think it's bull. What im saying is i think its a transmission problem. Can the transmission be flushed out and changed is my question
So is stiff clutch indicative of any future failure? What does it mean? I couldn't get any explanation from the dealer other than "keep an eye on it, and we may have to replace it when it starts slipping."
The clutch currently does not slip at all.
Any ideas?
Thanks!
I'll keep an eye on it. Inspecting the clutch in not a cost-effective option - just to get to the clutch there is so much labor involved (was quoted 8 hours) that I might as well change it at that point.
These new cars are not easy to work on!
Either that or the clutch was replaced with an aftermarket assembly. Those can be much stiffer than the originals.