Did you recently take on (or consider) a loan of 84 months or longer on a car purchase?
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A reporter would like to speak with you about your experience; please reach out to PR@Edmunds.com by 7/25 for details.
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I don't want someone who doesn't understand what was changed on my 4T65E in 98 and whether I'm better off with a factory reman from GM or another reman or with him doing just the parts needed. At 130K mi I may need that skill some day soon and I want someone who spends his time just doing trannies making the decision.
2014 Malibu 2LT, 2015 Cruze 2LT,
SP III is a Mitsubishi proprietary formula. Since Hyundai uses this fluid, too, for its Hyundai and KIA lines, Mitsubishi licensed the formula to Hyundai for duplication for sale only through that company's respective take-yer-money-ships. Thus, the only sources for a qualified SP III fluid are Hyundai, KIA, and Mitsubishi take-yer-money-ships. I've found it locally for $8.39/qt. at a Mitsubishi take-yer-money-ship, and as low as $3.69/qt. at a Hyundai take-yer-money-ship. Unless Mitsubishi licenses the formula for aftermarket duplication, any substitute is merely it's blender's best guess at friction modifier chemistry compatibility with clutch facings, and adherence to detergency, viscosity, and basic lubrication requirements for cold and hot operation. Hyundai issued a TSB over a year and a half ago that the company would not extend warranty coverage on units which had not been serviced with genuine SP III. Dunno how the company could verify that, but I don't intend to find out the hard way with my Sonata. If you're currently using Amsoil Universal, you could be risking warranty claim denial depending on what make car you drive and its manufacturer's policy regarding aftermarket ATFs. I have also seen two so-called "universal" formulations, "Coastal", at Autozone, for $3.69/qt., and "SuperTech", at WalMart, for ~$2.44/qt. which claim SP III compatibility. Again, you pays your money and takes your chances.
I'm a frequent poster on Edmunds, but have never had one as crazy as this. My car's check engine light came on a few days ago. The car ran well enough with it on for a few days. The light even went off briefly. However, this morning, the light had returned, and the car refused to shift out of first gear. Additionally, the input to the pedal did not directly correlate with the motor's reaction. Strangest was my fuel gauge, which now randomly meanders between 1/2 tank and empty and settles for awhile before wandering again (I have a little bit less than a half tank remaining). I took it to a local auto parts store where they ran the trouble codes. TPS was listed as one of the codes, and so I replaced it. The car now idles well enough, but still refuses to shift out of first, and the TPS trouble code refuses to be erased when clearing codes with the OBD II. The clearing of the codes appears to have settled my idle, and replacing the TPS has made my pedal input better correlate with the motor's reaction. Additionally, the fuel gauge problem appears to have righted itself, but the car still won't shift out of first.
My friend suspects the problem lies in my Electronic Control Module, but he admits he doesn't know GMs all that well. I have the following questions:
- Does anyone else think this is the likely culprit?
- Would a repair shop be able to use their Snap-On Diagnostics to better pinpoint the problem?
- Is there any sort of traceable relay that might be fouled between the computer and the transmission?
- How likely is it that the problem resides in the transmission (I had it flushed a little more than a year ago)?
I appreciate any thoughts on what's ailing my car. Thanks.
Hopefully it won't come to that. But, if it does, your fight will be with the automaker, not with the take-yer-money-ship. Good luck.
http://www.transmaticsc.com
The claims sound rather...well..scientifically implausible to say the least. It's like having a bad clutch in a manual transmission and adding something from a can to fix it.
I've got a transmission issue on an '03 V8 4Runner where I was on a 3 hour drive where all of a sudden the Xmission would not go into 4th or 5th gear. I had to drive the rest of the way going slow since I didn't want to red line it in 3rd. I went and read the DTC code and got the following:
P0776 "Pressure Control Solenoid B Performance or Stuck Off"
But after the car sat for a little while I drove it again and the problem had gone away, so it's intermittent. Looking at the shop manual, the first thing it says to check is a specific solenoid. It seems plausible that the solenoid that they refer to was simply stuck due to the intermittent nature of the failure.
Checking the solenoid requires dropping the pan on the tranny. But at this point I'm pretty sure that no problem would show up, since the issue went away. I know the problem will come back at the most inconveinient time, so hoping that "it fixed itself" is usually not wise. I'd be inclined to simply replace the solenoid once I bother dropping the tranny pan since messing with tranny fluid and gasket sealer is such a pain.
Before I go to all the trouble though, has anyone else seen this?
I've got 65,000 miles on it already, so I'm out of the warranty. I got a Toyota because I wanted reliability. I'm not that impressed to be seeing issues in the Xmission already. This feels too much like something that would be expected on a Chrysler and not on a Toyota.
Thanks,
Eric
When it was rebuilt again, the transmission shop found five mistakes made by the original mechanic. The original mechanic is disputing one of the mistakes found by the transmission shop, saying it was impossible to make that mistake as there was only one way for the part to be put in, that it was idiot-proof (in his case, a good thing).
I would like to know if the original mechanic is correct that one of the mistakes found by the transmission shop would have been impossible to make. I'm not exactly sure which mistake(s) he questioned so I will list all five. My best recollection is that it was numbers two and three, that the N-R accumulator piston and springs were located in the 2-3 accumulator piston bore and vice versa.
1) Forward friction plate located on top of dished plate. Correct location is on top of bottom forward steel plate.
2) N-R accumulator piston bore and springs located in the 2-3 accumulator piston bore.
3) 2-3 accumulator piston and springs located in the N-R accumulator piston bore.
4) Sprag was out of position in housing causing a bind up. Problem was caused by improper installation or sprag failure.
5) Excessive clutch friction and steel plate damage found throughout transaxle.
Would any of the above mistakes have been impossible to make? Also, would the mistakes made have caused the transmission to fail?
Thanks...Dan
If months, you might have a Small Claims situation here and you'd probably collect, with the second mechanic's testimony or affadavit. If 4 & 1/2 years, you have no recourse and the idea of "mistakes" doesn't seem reasonable.
http://car-part.com/
Joe
I am hoping that the transmission is still good and this is a minor problem. My gut feeling is that the torque converter has gone bad. Big Money!
I need some input on this, please!
Thanks.
chrisusvi
Take it to the dealer or a trusted, reccommended independent for a look.
Anyway, it is now fixed and shifts fine. I'm curious about longevity. Is an overhauled tranny "as good as new"? In buying the WK my intent was to keep it till the wheels fall apart... But the Commander is sure looking nice these days...
Thanks!
Thanks,
Julie
Don't let the dealer walk all over you. Stand your ground, you may need to find a real honest independant transmission person, to verify that you have a problem.
Most likely your vehicle is still under warranty. So don't let the independant fix anything. If you find for sure there is a problem, which it sounds like you definatly have. Then you start by threatining legal action. And you should also then start researching the lemon law stuff here on the net. And be careful about the line of crap they will give you. They are buying time to get that warranty outa the way. So then they will be off the hook.
New Fords are known for bad automatic transmissions.
Customers are suffering for bad engineering and manufacturing practices. The internal parts of newer transmissions are crap compaired to the good old days.
Good luck.
Thank you again.
Did I burn the clutch cable and ruin the transmission? Has anyone here ever experienced something like this? :confuse:
I was told I needed a new transmission mount a few weeks ago (could feel a harsh downshift), the harsh downshift miraculosly went away 2 days before this latest problem happened.
Any thoughts as to what the problem could be??
:lemon:
Joe
it revs up to 4000rpms trying to get to 35mph and once it does it jerks into 3rd and it wont go past 45mph. The folks at the VW dealership claim that the transmisson fluid has a lifetime guarantee, i think it's bull. What im saying is i think its a transmission problem. Can the transmission be flushed out and changed is my question
So is stiff clutch indicative of any future failure? What does it mean? I couldn't get any explanation from the dealer other than "keep an eye on it, and we may have to replace it when it starts slipping."
The clutch currently does not slip at all.
Any ideas?
Thanks!
I'll keep an eye on it. Inspecting the clutch in not a cost-effective option - just to get to the clutch there is so much labor involved (was quoted 8 hours) that I might as well change it at that point.
These new cars are not easy to work on!
Either that or the clutch was replaced with an aftermarket assembly. Those can be much stiffer than the originals.